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oops rechecked made a mistake of putting 9 meters instead of 3 meters lol. The result is now 98.2 db

When i change the Amplifier watt to 80 i get a result of 99.5 db. Thats if i go for the Nad C268

When i change the Amplifier watt to 150 i get a result of 102.2 db. Thats if i go for the NAD C275BEE

hmmn.


Thanks.
"Reference" is having the ability to 105db. Few people listen quite that loud but it's a solid number to be able to achieve.

That said, if you are on the fence about it, try it without. Raise the crossover, to let the sub do more work, to see what having more power is like. THEN try it with an amp and see if that makes you happier. If not, return or sell the amp.

In other words, you clearly do NOT need an amp to get started. You will get good loud sound without one. But there is a possibility that an amp will improve things. So the experiment is worthwhile, especially if the 'raising the crossover' experiment is pleasing, on its own.
 

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I know-I’m so bummed and disappointed.

How is it even possible to get a brand new unit and it doesn’t even turn on..the most I was worried about was the rear surround speakers buzzing with external amp.

Has this DOA experience happened to anyone else here?!?

Would second guess the NAD but already paid for direct love full
Dumb question. Are you sure the power cord is fully inserted into the unit?
 

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oops rechecked made a mistake of putting 9 meters instead of 3 meters lol. The result is now 98.2 db
The all-channels-driven spec for this AVR is 60wpc, so that is the number I would use. You can use the 110w figure if you are doing 2-channel stereo, though.

https://www.crownaudio.com/en/tools/calculators

It's 92dB all channels driven, or 95dB in 2-channel stereo. Do you need it to be louder?
 

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Hi there!



I've been reading passively here since quite a while already and got really interested in the t758.

I was little concerned because of all those bugs it had in the beginning but I got myself a test device from the hifi dealer of my choice. Even that device had that bug on the optical outs I was extremely impressed (sound, setup possibilities, especially concerning setting up sources,...) so I decided my denon avr x4000 has to look out for a new owner ;-)

Last friday I got the device I ordered after I returned the test device. I was bit afraid I would have a device with bugs so I prepared myself in advance... In order to not experience issues with the mic (multiple adaptors...) I ordered a UMIK 1 as well. Expecting wifi issues I got myself a usb lan adaptor. Last not least, to be prepared for the worst case scenario I kept my old Denon to have an AVR if it turns out that the NAD has to be sent in to get a possible AM230 issue solved (opt in,...).

Well, as I mentioned already the device arrived last friday (so 2 days ago). First thing, already at the door, I checked the serial number if it is in the range of devices with the AM230 modul. Check! way out of that range... Already a relief... I unpacked the NAD ind noticed right away there is the new AM230 card installed - another relief... Then I got the piece in my hifi rack and started it. First I tried to connect it to the net in order to update - worked without any problems. Relief continued ;-)... All the other setup was a piece of cake (sources, speakers, etc). Yesterday I successfully did my first Dirac measurement, also without experiencing any problems. Well I just did a one point measurement just to get a feeling if and how it works. Later the day I will care seriously about Dirac :-D...

To get to the point: I felt - for all those other people who are reading passively here - it would be nice to get infos from an owner who experienced no problems with the device at all! I'm a extremely happy owner of a new fully functional NAD T758 V3!

The only thing giving me issues is Bluesound - it won't reindex my iTunes Music collection, but that seems to be a problem of my iTunes library/id3Tags. Doesn't matter anyway since my mac mini is part of my hifi system and hooked to the NAD (optically). All the rest works fine here!



Greetz from Hamburg - St.Pauli! (Germany)



Maunsson


I felt more nervious when you pointed out the bugs one at a time. I have a umik-1 and what do I need to buy just incase wifi doesn’t work? Can you provide a link thanks. And also, what is the serial number for the am230 card that was bad? Hopefully mines arrives working


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I felt more nervious when you pointed out the bugs one at a time. I have a umik-1 and what do I need to buy just incase wifi doesn’t work? Can you provide a link thanks. And also, what is the serial number for the am230 card that was bad? Hopefully mines arrives working

Well, it's easy to end up in a "bug bubble" in these Forums. People tend to tell what Problems they have and not when there's no problem. When I had the test device I made my choice no matter what - I wanted to have it, even if it appears a bit like a diva if one wants to believe the impression one gets in Forums. My personal experience draws a different picture though. Everything just fine!

For Lan connection I just bought a cheap USB 2 Lan Adaptor (ICY BOX IB-AC509) from a shop around the corner. I didn't need it so I didn't even bother to try it yet... Some here recommended (and use) this one: UGREEN Ethernet Adapter, USB 2.0 to 10/100 Network Adapter.

The serial number range wich was mentioned here ("some" pages back) was from around 10.000 (a bit more, I don't recall exactly where it began) until 12.769. But it's important to notice that not all the devices in that range have the discribed problems (with pre-outs and optical-ins on AM 230).
Hopefully (and probably) you will get a device fine as mine!
 

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I had similar problems in setting up my 758 last week. The receiver would show up as wifi on my iPhone but I could never get to a configuration screen to connect to my home wifi. Next I tried it with a MacBook and after several tries I was finally able to get to a configuration screen using the HTTP address in the BlueOs instructions. Once I told the dongle my home wifi information the updates went fine.

I can't recall the exact sequence of swear words I used before it finally worked or I would gladly pass them along.:)



I have the exact same problem. I have found others on the Bluesound forum with the same problem and it appears a firmware update is required. How to do that without WiFi is the question. Why this receive does not have wired Ethernet is beyond me. Stupid.
 

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When there is a talk about power amps, too often you are forgetting one important fact - Dirac costs a lot of headroom.

100W RMS is quite a lot without Dirac. But if Dirac applies EQ with +10 dB on some frequency range (and that's not rare!) - in that frequency range you will have ten times less "power" - equivalent of only 10W without Dirac.
 

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got the result of 98.2db when i choose 60w rating.


Thanks.
I am not getting that result. Your speakers are 87dB efficient. With a 3 meter distance, you will get the numbers I posted.

What are you plugging in to the calculator?
 

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I know-I’m so bummed and disappointed.

How is it even possible to get a brand new unit and it doesn’t even turn on..the most I was worried about was the rear surround speakers buzzing with external amp.

Has this DOA experience happened to anyone else here?!?

Would second guess the NAD but already paid for direct love full
Dumb question. Are you sure the power cord is fully inserted into the unit?
Ya-I presses it in fairly hard and wiggles it and everything...don’t see how it’s possible but I guess it happens...just haven’t read about it on this whole forum....
 

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I'm trying to update a new 758 but cannot connect to wifi. I have inserted the dongle into the USB port on the 758, the green light is on showing it's getting power, and the blue os usb device is blue, but I cannot connect the system to my wifi. Neither my IPAD nor my computer are showing the NAD on wifi.

Here is a picture of my dongle.
I had the same issue. I could not do the software update because I didn’t have a WiFi connectionand I needed the new software to get an IP address so I could connect over WiFi. NAD tech support had me simply go to the download section on the NAD page for the 758. Then download the BluOS 3.2.6 software to my computer and then copy it to a USB thumb drive. Then turn off the receiver, plug in the thumb drive into an open usb slot on the dongle. Turn on the receiver and update the software.

Actually here is the entire response.

Thank you for the System Info photo.

Your T758 V3 needs to be updated. Please upgrade your unit to VM 130 BluOS firmware 3.0.2

Unzip and copy the VM130.img file unto a FAT 32 Formatted USB Stick.

Use Windows eject before unplugging the USB stick from your computer.

Power off your unit and plug the USB Stick into the BluOS USB hub.

Power on the unit, open the Menu > Setup > BluOS Setup> BluOS Upgrade > Yes.

When the upgrade completes, your unit will display the Source last selected.

Press front panel buttons and release.

The System Info screen should appear on your TV with the following firmware versions:
MCU v2.12
DSP v1.10
Video v1.09
BluOS/OSD v3.0.2

I hope this resolves your wireless setup issue.
 
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Has someone fix the Humm from the Atmos speaker ? Fix that the new v2 Module AM 230 ?

Has someone see the new modul AM 250 ?
 

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Ya-I presses it in fairly hard and wiggles it and everything...don’t see how it’s possible but I guess it happens...just haven’t read about it on this whole forum....
I don’t understand this post. Are you saying you fixed the problem?
 

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Has someone fix the Humm from the Atmos speaker ? Fix that the new v2 Module AM 230 ?

Has someone see the new modul AM 250 ?
The newer AM230 has the noise problem resolved.

The AM250 MDC module mates up with the VM300 video module used in the M17 pre-processor, and isn't an upgrade to the AM230. They perform the exact same function in a difference form factor.
 

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I felt more nervious when you pointed out the bugs one at a time. I have a umik-1 and what do I need to buy just incase wifi doesn’t work? Can you provide a link thanks. And also, what is the serial number for the am230 card that was bad? Hopefully mines arrives working

Well, it's easy to end up in a "bug bubble" in these Forums. People tend to tell what Problems they have and not when there's no problem. When I had the test device I made my choice no matter what - I wanted to have it, even if it appears a bit like a diva if one wants to believe the impression one gets in Forums. My personal experience draws a different picture though. Everything just fine!

For Lan connection I just bought a cheap USB 2 Lan Adaptor (ICY BOX IB-AC509) from a shop around the corner. I didn't need it so I didn't even bother to try it yet... Some here recommended (and use) this one: UGREEN Ethernet Adapter, USB 2.0 to 10/100 Network Adapter.

The serial number range wich was mentioned here ("some" pages back) was from around 10.000 (a bit more, I don't recall exactly where it began) until 12.769. But it's important to notice that not all the devices in that range have the discribed problems (with pre-outs and optical-ins on AM 230).
Hopefully (and probably) you will get a device fine as mine!

Thanks, just wanted to prepare as well if anything happens so I can set and make my system running right away.

What my dealer told me is that they gave me an open box price for $999 but they are sending a brand new one because I had problems with the receiver that I bought from them twice. There the one who is also hesitating to recommend the NAD because of the bugs and I guess customers who are experiencing it as well.

I am just hoping forthe best and wanted to really try Dirac.
 

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I m using this calculator which Richard posted earlier-

https://mehlau.net/audio/spl/
I realize that. They do the same thing.

Note, while Markus' calculator does add a bit of gain for speaker placement, which I am not qualified to say whether his calculations are right or wrong, he doesn't take into account amp headroom. His calculator assumes you will put your amp at 100% to reach those numbers. As a result, THD will increase by a large amount. If you use the Crown amp calculator, you will see they account for 3dB of headroom left on the amp. Which is not only safer, but will result in lower THD and leave room for dynamic peaks, avoiding compression.
 

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I currently do, because I turn it off and on via ethernet (Simple Control on iOS). I actually just ordered an ethernet to serial adapter because 40W 24/7 is a crazy power waste!
And this allowed you to turn off standby pass through in 758v3 and still turn on devices hooked to receiver? How?
 

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I have a question about Dirac v2. I still have not been able to get it to run correctly. I never had any issues at all with v1.I noticed there doesn't seem to be any individual channel sliders anymore in v2. Have these been removed ? Also, I don't see an auditorium arrangement available or any way to go beyond 9 measurements. Does this indicate that v2 does not think I have the full version of Dirac? I haven't been able to get to the actual measurements to see if it is stopping at 500hz or not because of errors encountered before I get to that point. I am using a umik-1 connected to my computer for the measurements.
 

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I’m stuck on the first step of Dirac calibration on my 758, selecting the microphone :rolleyes:

I’m on macOS and the only microphone selections available are the 758 and the internal microphone. I don’t see the white USB audio at all in the list of options. I feel like I’m missing something obvious, I just can’t figure it out..
*Update* Dirac responded back on my support ticket, they are unable to get NAD USB dongles to work on MacOS Dirac v2 as well. They hope to get a fix in the next update.
 
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