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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got this wierd problem where about once per four hours of use, my

NEC 6PG's red gun will jump to the left. The problem usually

lasts for a minute or two and then goes away. While the problem is occurring,

any attempts to change the horizontal alignment of the gun yield no results --

the red image doesn't move at all, although the on-screen adjustment indicator

thinks that it's changing the horizontal alignment. It seems like the projector has chosen

to ignore the horizontal alignment setting.


Does anybody know why this happens, how to fix it, or who to call to have

it examined? If this is something that has to be fixed by a professional,

any idea what it's going to cost?


Thanks.
 

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sounds like a failing C-drive. Pretty easy to fix.


Marc
 

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I agree with the C-Drive being the problem. Unless the "shift" is completely thermal in nature, there is a good chance you just have a bad solder joint or loose connection. I have run into a couple of C- drive outputs that just had cold solder joints.
 

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Those would be the huge black IC's on the two boards between the crt's. One is the F-drive, the other is the C-drive. If you are handy at this, you may want to take one board out at a time and check the solder connections on it. The Chips get very hot, and can develop bad solder connections. I do not have a camera, so someone else may be kind enough to post a pic of the boards.


Marc
 

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hi,guys


between the red and green tube and under the DEF board have two circuit board, one has two STK392-040 big black IC on it is C-drive,and it is pretty hot when projector is working.AND THIS PARTS usually dead on 6pg or 9pg,

my two 601(6PG) both have this problem!
 

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That's correct, moome. Also, if they are dead, check the big resistors on the board. They act like fuses on the lines comming from the chip. Lucky for everyone, that STK is easy to get. In fact, I keep a spare set, just in case :)


Marc
 

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I'm having the exact same problem on my old Barco Data 600. A tap to the casing usually resolves it (which leads me to believe a bad solder joint.) So the diagnosis would be to find the C-drive board on my unit and look at solder connections on the ICs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey, thanks for the excellent directions. I took out the board, checked the solder connections, and they're good. The problem still occurs, although now I can definitively say that it does *not* happen when the projector is cold -- only when it's been on for 30+ minutes.


So, where should I go from here? I'm not exactly comfortable replacing the STK chip (I'm not handy enough with solder, and the chip appears to be fused/glued to the metal piece it's mounted on). If I can order a replacement for the entire board for a reasonable price, I'd be inclined to do that.


Otherwise, can anybody recommend somebody in the San Francisco Bay Area who I could pay to come look at it? I don't want to bring it in to a shop since it weighs so much.


If I do hire somebody, how much is it likely to cost?


Thanks again!


- a
 

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Derek- your 'C' board is the entire convergence board. The Barco 600 does not have a separate convergence drive board like the NEC.


Start unscrewing and soldering..:)


Megacz, you need to change those STK 392-020 chips. You can buy the chips and get a helpful TV store to drop them in for you. ("No warranty, you're on your own", yada, yada, is what they'll say.


Those chips are about $25.00 USD each from me. Moome, I can get as many as you want, but I'm sure that other online semiconductor outlets in the US are cheaper than me. I would just be reselling them...


Curt
 

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hi,Curt thanks for your opinion,

would you kindly to tell me some online semiconductor outlets?

i need some parts usually,if they have no 392-220,i would like to buy from you!

and your are really a dictionary about projector!


regard




moome
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Good news:


I replaced the STK392-040, and it worked flawlessly for two hours! Definately fixed. Thanks a million guys, if you ever need help with Linux or Java, perhaps I can return the favor.


Bad news:


I forgot to insert the plastic lining that goes below the board that holds the STK chip, and also accidentally swapped the R and G wires going to that board. I left it that way for two hours of use (things looked kinda blue, but I was watching a movie that made it hard to tell).


Shortly after that, one of my roommates switched the mode on the projector (from S-Video input to SVGA input), and heard a loud popping noise come from the projector, and the CRTs went dead (no light). The projector still makes the same high-pitched syncing noises when I plug/unplug the SVGA cable.


After this happened, I examined the projector and realized my mistake with the R/B cables.


Any ideas? Did I totally fry my projector?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay, I've got more info for 'yall... the red LED on the main board in the projector comes on when I turn it on, and remains on. Also, the LED readout on the back of the projector reads "00" at all times (even during power-up).
 

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hi, i think you have bad DEF board,and maybe some bad capacitor on it!

when you run higher freguency,the yok need some capacitor to get right timing for display!


thanks
 

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megacz,

Try lifting the CP connector on the c-drive and see if it will fire up. Usually you will get a F8 error if the board fails, the 00 error points to the deflection board but try lifting the connector.


There is a good chance that the static is set way to low or high and it fried the chip again,


The transfer material is one of the things that gets left out on most of these, I find them like that all the time with no apparent harm but they were put in there for a reason, the next time you take it out tape it to the drive on both ends, it will stay put. Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm assuming that the deflection board is the board between the red and green guns (closer to the green than the red). I unplugged the big gray plug marked "CP", and turned on the projector.... same results as before -- powers up, red LED comes on, status 00 the whole time, projector makes that "I'm trying to sync" noise, fans spin up, but no light at all in the tubes. Argh.


Any other ideas?


Once again, a million thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Right now we're only using the projector's S-Video input to watch movies (computer is broken too), so if the problem I'm suffering only disables the SVGA/hi-res mode, and there's some way to reset it to S-Vid input without having to use the on-screen menus, that would be a really helpful interim solution....


- a
 
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