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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was watching a movie last night and when it was over I went to switch inputs to the hi-def input. When I did this the projector shut down and now will not power on. I turned everything off, inlcuding the projector, but when I try to turn it on it comes on for about two seconds and then shuts down again. I actually had to power the projector off (not turn it to standy) to get it to stop trying to power on every 30 seconds or so. It simply won't power up. I have no idea what happened.


The only change I made recently was adding a 72hz vertical refresh rate. I bought a b-stock Leeza and thought I'd try a different refresh to see if it made a difference. Did I overdrive the projector? I thought a 9PG could handle this refresh rate? I was watching a movie at 72hz last night when this happened.


Anyone have any idea what might be wrong or how to fix it? Is it something simple like a blown fuse? I've been working my ass off setting this thing up again (I got a new screen and had to move the projector closer and drop it out of the ceiling a little bit, so I had to set up everything again from scratch). I can't believe this happened with the first movie I watched. Grrrr.


By some weird convergence of the stars, Chuck Williams e-mailed me while I was writing this message. I sent him a copy of it but I'm going to post this anyway. It's like he was reading my mind!


I was also having David Harper come over this afternoon to install Chuck's fan mod (Dave only lives about an hour from me), and I sent him an e-mail on this also. Hopefully someone will know what's going on and how to fix it.
 

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I bad power supply, convergence board, focus board or bad deflection board.


If you do a search here, there's been lots of posts on how to troubleshoot this...


Curt
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I tried about five searches but I guess I didn't narrow it down enough because I couldn't find anything useful. I'll keep looking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Doug, Chuck Williams asked me that as well. It's hidden above the ceiling tiles so I didn't see it last night. I'll check when I get home and post the answer tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Doug,


I tried powering up the projector but did not see any error message. You're talking about the little led readout on the back panel next to the lights that say power, remote and standby, right? That panel never lit up at all.


However, a big red light on the deflection board switched on when it tried to power up. It's the light labeled D023. I hope this helps. I've also e-mailed this message to Chuck Williams. I hope this isn't too hard to fix. Thanks!
 

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David,

Sorry, out of town.

The red led D5023 is the horiz deflection, check the 2SC4288A H output transistor thats located on the black finned heat sync when you open the cover. You should remove it to check and it will probably be shorted across any of the leads you check.


I have seen the power supply (connector 1A (1) 35V test, give this also but check the transistor first, also the diode right next to it DD50 could have failed.


I have the transistor in stock if you need it, I should be home early in the morning. If all else fails try disconnecting the rgbhv and see what happens, next lift the CP connector on the C-drive, then the FP connector on the F-drive.


Usually this will give you an error code, deflection doesnt always but you should be getting at least something, do you have a stand by light? I have heard the rear IR board shorting and doing this also, lift the connector there.


I wont be able to check my e-mail again till morning. Good luck, David. Doug


Forgot, Look in the face of the lenses and look for a crack across the tube face, If you switched refresh rate it might not have had memory to hold it off the edge of the tube, I sure hope this isnt the case.
 

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Im guessing the F-drive board or C-drive board has a fault.


Like Doug said..


remove the FP connector for the F-drive board and see if it powers up. If it does then you have a problem on your F-drive board.


otherwise remove the CP connector from the C-drive board and see if it powers up. If it does then you have a problem with your C-drive board.


Both these boards are located between the red and green tubes -underneath the deflection board. The FP and CP connectors are clearly labelled.
 

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hi, i agree with cookie,because the IC on C-drive board usually fail due to heat!but it is luck these IC are so cheap and can be found easily!
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by David F
Doug,


I tried powering up the projector but did not see any error message. You're talking about the little led readout on the back panel next to the lights that say power, remote and standby, right? That panel never lit up at all.
I believe that you were looking at the IR receiver. The error code, if any, is on the display behind the flip down door on the rear of the projector. If there are no errors, it will display 00.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm really concerned that I may have cracked the red CRT. I looked in all of them this morning before I left for work and there appeared to be what looked like a thin hairline scratch across the red face, running diagonally almost the entire length from top to bottom. It didn't really look like a crack but I need to check again with a smaller flashlight to be sure. I'm going to try to get a digital photo of it tonight that I'll post if I can get the line to show up.

Quote:
I believe that you were looking at the IR receiver. The error code, if any, is on the display behind the flip down door on the rear of the projector. If there are no errors, it will display 00.
D'oh! I'll look again tonight. There's another IR receiver on the front of the projector, I wasn't aware there was another one on the back.
 

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David,

If the tube is cracked you can unplug it from the splitter and the projector should power up. What version 9PG do you have? 9000, 9100, 9200. Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Doug,

I have the PG 9000. God, I hope it's not cracked.....


If it is indeed cracked, what will it cost to replace it? And where can I get one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Doug,


I sent you an e-mail this morning but I did it from memory because I didn't have your address handy. I used [email protected] .


Anyway, Chuck Williams is pretty sure all I did was blow the H output transistor, so I've ordered a replacement part and will install that to see if it fixes the problem. I don't think I cracked the tube, but if it turns out I did I'll be in touch!


The blue and green guns looked perfect. When I shone a flashlight in the red gun at a certain angle I could see what looked like a hairline scratch across the face, but it didn't seem to go to the edge of the tube. It was very faint. Could this be a crack? I was assuming that a cracked tube would be kind of shattered, with spiderweb fractures all over the place.


I asked a question about the Leeza in the processors forum and it kind of morphed into the projector problem. The thread is here
 

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David,


I didnt get your e-mail, ??


I wanted to help you out on this. It doesnt sound like the tube is cracked, it goes to the outside edge or corner most of the times.


When ever the freq is increased the image will get smaller, when you enter the signal enter it from the temporary line and not the default, this way you wont be using the amplitude setting of the default.


You can check the H WIDTH pot by running a 15.75khz signal and put a volt meter on pin 2 of the PA connector on the deflection board and chassis ground the negatived probe, set this to 1.8V DC using VR5005 H WIDTH, I run it just a tad less. Set the amplitude cursor to about 75.


You set your throw based on the 4:3 format, you go off of the width of the screen, 80" wide (100 diag) its 129" to the screen side of the mount to the screen, a quick reference is twice the screen height based on 4:3 so the 4:3 would be 80" W divided by 4 (20") times 3 (60") times 2 =120" to the lens not the mount, mount to lens is about 8" this is just for being in the ballpark based on the 6-9000.


If you want to use more phosphor area this is up to you but make sure the raster doesnt hit the edge of the tube, Im conservative and run it about 1/2" away on the edge, one reason is because of phase shift if you dont have a signal entered or its one without a memory slot.


This is just my opinion, I hope thats all it is. Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Doug, thanks for all of your help. I'm still a little concerned about the red tube but I've been so busy the past couple of days I haven't had a chance to test it. You've always been very helpful and I appreciate all the information you've posted. If it turns out I DO need a new tube I'll definitely let you know.


Strange about the e-mail. I sent it from home. Maybe I mistyped it. I'll check tonight.
 

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I've repaired several of these and still think your problem lies on the deflection board. If that red LED is on all the time (when the projector stays on for a short time) your problem lies on that board, most likely the Horizontal driver transistor mentioned above. Dont pay more than $15.00 for them. I can steer you in the right direction if you need one. These run hot and usually always go out when scan is lost (ie switching sources) or changing resolutions which is what sounds like happened with you.

You could have a piece of hair or something on the lense. Insted of panicing about it just pull the lense off and see! The chance of cracking a CRT face is nill to none!
 
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