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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just hung my 9PG+ expecting it balance perfectly on the two mounting pins however it is well weighted to the rear. It is the factory mount that was on the projector when I bought it. It looks to be correct according to the pic in the install manual but I did not take notice to whether there could be multiple places to attach the "L" brackets to the PJ. I assumed that there should only be one location for those to mount. Is that correct and/ Or should I be concerned that it is not balanced? Thanks
 

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usehername,

The slot goes towards the front of the projector and the two screws goes towards the back on both the mount and L brackets. The rear will be heavier and its normal.


If the two holes are worn and dont hold the weight you can drill a extra hole to use a 'pin' at the corner of the rear most L brackets on both sides and through the mount, this will take care of the problem of not holding it.


Make sure the hand screws are set correctly and the projector isnt 'lifting' these out of position out of the dip in the slot, hand tighten then check that the spacer didnt bottom out, if it did use a large fender washer for a spacer. Some later mounts had different spacers and threaded collars, most get mis-matched.


Use a hardened self tapping screw but make the pilot hole the correct size for the self tapping screw. Have someone hold the back up in the correct position or use a prop. Pre-load just a tad so it hangs out in the correct position. Should be level when your done. Dont drill until your sure of the position, if your off drill a new one and catch the fileings with a damp cloth. Dont let them drop through the fan holes. Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks very much Doug.

Answers that completely... On to set up.
 

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Wayne, I just went through this exact same process. The L-plates need to be turned inward (ceiling bracket is not wide enough if the L-plates are turned outward). On my bracket the L-R L-plates can be superimposed on the L-R sides of the projector, or R-L sides of the projector.


No, the pivot point on the L-plates are not dead-center with the front/rear-pair of screws that hold the L-plates to the projector, and depending on how you actually screw the L-R L-plates the pivot point is either over the front or rear pairs of screws that hold the L-plate to the projector.


I had a friend kind enough to go lift a ceiling tile to determine which superposition was needed. Currently, the L-plates are installed with the pivot point over the front pairs of L-plate screws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks WanMan. I think that is the way mine is set. It was installed professionally in the last location and I did not move anything but it just did not seem right that the unit is so weighted to the rear. When I installed the small rear screws that actually became the pivot point and the front wanted to come up at the slots. I tightened the hand screws well and it seems to be solid and level. I just thought that if the L brackets were further back it would be better balanced. I cant see if that was even possible now that it is up. Thanks again for your trouble.
 

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What you also want to make sure of is that the installation of the ceiling bracket is dead-on the centerline of the room, or aligned at right-angle with the screen's centerline. As little as a 4.86º deviation will result in a 10" L-R shift in the projected image at a screen 10' away.


I am still bewildered why the projector mount manufacturers did not include a small 3/16" or 1/4" screw hole dead-center of the ceiling bracket's base (that portion the threaded rods or bolts fasten to) so one could turn the ceiling bracket on the horizontal plane to insure that the corner-to-corner distances between bracket and screen are precise (i.e. equal-distance).


Seems like someone drafted the mount knowing its final use, forgot this aspect, and then gave the draft to a metal fabricator who had no idea what it was going to be used for. A really poor design if you ask me, and I have half the gump to go re-invent the wheel, so to speak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I agree. I went to great pains to get right the first time. I used a laser to center the bracket and clamped a six foot level to the front of the bracket and measured to the wall many times to get it square. Looks like I am still a hair out of square as the right side is a bit out of focus when the middle and left are good.
 

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I own one of those $99 laser levels that I got from HD. I no longer have faith that there is anything with precision at any of the home improvement stores, nor in the original construction of my home.


My TV room turned out to not be square in any corner. The left-right side walls ate not parallel (think trapezoid), which meant I could simply measure off X-distance from the right-wall at the screen wall and the intended projector location. This would have required a correction at the screen where the left-side of the screen would have to had been further from the screen wall than the right side of the screen.


Of course, it also helps to draw lines on walls/ceiling and drill holes in ceiling for the projector mount before you paint the room such a dark color (ink pen lines disappear easily).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Again agree. The laser I own was 1400. But we use it alot in my line of work.
 

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I too bought a laser level for this purpose but I found a genius post that said to use fishing line long enough to go from the left corner of the screen to the centerline on the green lens and back to the opposite corner of the screen. You fold the string in 1/2 then tie a small knot, this locks in the centerline of the string. Now attach to each corner of the screen and pull it tight towords the center of the green lens. Now you will know if the screen/crt is out of center. Patience really pays off here with a picture requiring much less electronic/mechanical correction.
 
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