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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all! Let me preface this by saying I'm a newbie to the PJ scene but I am an Electronics Technician type by trade (Navy Firecontrolman). I am not clueless, I just need a little guidance ;) I have done quite a few searches on setup, I would just like some feedback to give me a warm fuzzy.

OK, here goes... PJ is currently floor mounted about 11.5' from the "screen". I started out yesterday getting a feel for the different menus and trying to make sure all the defaults were set. I didn't know about doing a mechanical convergence, so I relied on electrical convergence to correct it. Static would not come in, so I got it as close as I could and ended up using Fine point convergence to align it. Picture looked "OK" and the crosshair was now yellow :D. After digging through the archives last night, I came to the conclusion that this is a bad thing :( Soooooo, I deleted all the signal entries, normalized static and points and started from scratch today. I'm currently using S-Video from my Panny RP-91 as an input (for the moment). I think I have the order right on these setup adjustments, please chime in if not...


First off...


1.) Raster Centering. I took the lenses off as I couldn't see the raster on the CRT face. Contrast down, brightness up....I started to see a box "glow" at about 70 brightness. Inside that box I can see about 3 ghost box images. I'm not displaying any video, what is that? There seems to be alot of "blooming" (for lack of a better word) on the green tube. I had to adjust keystone to get the raster square and it's close, but not perfect. They were pretty close to center when I started, I did a minor adjustment using the service code. Oh, I adjusted the Amplitude under the alignment menu to make the raster take up about 85% of the tube face. Good so far? Do I keep the amplitude at this level? What abut the image size? How much of the raster should it use and is there an adjustment for this?

2.) Put lenses back on (I'm not here yet, just checking) and adjust mechanical center focus, corner focus on all three tubes using the focus TP.

3.) Adjust mechanical convergence using the slotted adjustment on the red and blue CRT's using the crosshair TP. If all is well, I should be able to come pretty close to perfect convergence without having to tweak the static, correct?

4.) Adjust point convergence if necessary for corners?

5.) Adjust all geometry settings.......Which ones are important, which ones can I leave be?

6.) Anything else?


This is just kinda preemptive until I get the thing ceiling mounted (same distance) so I can get a handle on the adjustments. Eventually, I would like to get a professional over here to do the final tweaking. Any thoughts/tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!!


Ryan
 

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Ryan-


I'm running out the door and cannot bang out a complete response....BUT after reading that you didn't do mech conv and compensated with elec conv.......DON'T. Replacing a blown convergence amp is not a pretty endeavour! Please refrain from any electronic adjustments until the mechanicals are dealt with. The only exception is getting each image centered on each CRT face, and then maybe maxxed so that there is about 1/4" until they touch the outside edge of the phosphor surface. Use a signal to do this. THEN, do the mechanical convergence of the red and blue to the green. After that you can more or less safely play with electronic convergence and touch-ups.


-Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Chris,

Don't worry, I ran it for maybe an hour after I used the electronics to converge it. Now my next question is: Can you adjust vertical convergence mechanically? I unscrewed the 2 screws for the guns and used them in the variable slot. This allowed me to get the red and blue almost spot on horizontally, however the blue is way north of green. I tried "lightly" shifting it up and down but to no avail. Left and right movement only. The only way I was able to get blue converged was with -96 for the static convergence. I played around in the menu for blue convergence specifically but couldn't find anything that would adjust it down. Would shifting the raster down compensate? TIA!!!


Ryan
 

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Ryan,


You need to get the geometries for your projector and screen correct before proceeding with convergences. This means the correct distance from the screen for the desired image size, the correct position of the screen relative to the projector position, making sure your projector is centered and square to the screen. These things should be properly set before worrying about convergences. The manuals will give you an idea of screen position relative to the projector. For example, my NEC has a throw angle of 11 degrees. This and desired screen size will govern pj positioning. Methods for centering and "squareness" come from experience. If you don't do proper geometry, you end up compensating by electrical convergence, a good way to decrease the life of your pj. This is what Chris was talking about.



Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Quote:
Originally posted by Ryan23
Now my next question is: Can you adjust vertical convergence mechanically? I unscrewed the 2 screws for the guns and used them in the variable slot. This allowed me to get the red and blue almost spot on horizontally, however the blue is way north of green. I tried "lightly" shifting it up and down but to no avail. Left and right movement only. The only way I was able to get blue converged was with -96 for the static convergence. I played around in the menu for blue convergence specifically but couldn't find anything that would adjust it down. Would shifting the raster down compensate? TIA!!!


Ryan
Anyone have any ideas on the above? PJ is an NEC XG-110.


Thanks,


Ryan
 

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Ryan -


Again, you caught me running out the door......but the quick answer is no, there are typically no mechanical adjustments for vertical alignment of the red and blue tubes. I say 'typcially' because of the dozens of projectors of various brands I'm familiar with...I've never seen such adjustments, but I've never worked on your specific model. Of course, theoretically, there should never really be such a need. After centering the images on each CRT face using a signal of choice, and then mechanically aligning the red and blue images horizontally on the screen as close to the green as possible....you should need little, if any, vertical adjustment. This is done electronically with the remote, and there should be a menu command for 'static' movement for independently moving the red, then the blue.


A test pattern 'grid' or crosshair pattern, based on the fed signal should be used (gen-locked), for this entire process. Even better is a pattern from the signal source, e.g, the DVD player with the Avia DVD or Video Essesntials. When performing the mechanical alignment of the red and blue, you really only want to align the centers of each pattern/color.....don't worry at all about the outter sections. In other words, don't go for an 'overall' centering of the three colors.


If the vertical alignment of the red or blue is WAY off and requires most of the electronic range to compensate. Then something else is not right. I do not recall whether your model has Scheimpflug adjustments or not. If it does, and they're way out of whack....then this might contribute to vertical alignment problems.


I don't know where your projector came from, but I've picked up units that looked as if some fool turned every single pot and knob on it either in a effort to simply see what affect they had on the image, or to purposely screw up the projector. Unless it came from a reputable source, I would not assume that the electronics are properly tuned. Mike or Chuck are the guys for that kind of work if it is subsequently determined to be needed.


I can pop by later Friday night or sometime this weekend to go over it with you to see if there is something seriously wrong.....or at the very least get a decent image up for you until your ready for the permanent install.


-Chris
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Ryan,


Regarding mechanical adjustment of the vertical convergence, I have this problem on my XG 135LC, but to a lesser extent. I have found that you can get some degree of adjustment by applying different torque to the front lens assembly screws (the ones you loosen to do Scheimpflug adjustment). This will make your mechanical disalignment somewhat smaller and reduce the need for electronic correction.
 

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The first thing you should do is delete all the memory slots and start over fresh.

Also after correct calibration of the H size pot, the non-LC'ed XG seems to setup well at a throw distance of about 110" to 112"...LC'ed units a little deeper at 114 to 116".

Make sure pj is level, square, and centered on the screen

The first thing to do is increase your H & V Amplitude to bring the Rasters out close to all four corners...then center each one on the tube face, the bigger the raster, the easier to center.

When you do mechanical convergence make sure you have "normalized" all your Static convergence settings first.

The object here is to keep Static Convergence adjustments to a minimum as this is a high voltage adjustment. Most of us use 16X9 screens, so once the V amplitude is decreased to make the correct screen shape, you can use Raster Centering to get the vertical convergence correct, and of coarse mechanically swinging the Red and Blue on to Green for Horizontal convergence. You should be able to keep Static Convergence below +/-5.

You need to install tape arrows on the frame of your screen, centered along the right and left edges (during setup you should also have tape arrow on the top and bottom) This will help with other important part of mechanical setup...Tilt. "Normalize" all your Tilt settings, open the pj's access door, you will see a coil up on the bell of each tube, this is the deflection coil, if you loosen the thumb screw that holds this coil in place you can rotate the coil...the object is to get your horizontal crosshair line level across the screen without having to use electronic compensation. (the centered tape arrow will help with this) Rotate the Deflection Coils until the horizontal line is level. The Skew (Vertical line) must be done with electronic adjustment.


These are some good starting items...have fun, take your time and be careful.

You own a great pj.
 
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