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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In the process of replacing the tubes on my XG110 but I just can't get those HT leads off the connectors!!!


I'm pulling the grey rubber boot (at the fat end) but just can't get them to come off the connector - I doubt that I've actually managed to get any movement at all after 30minutes of trying and this is just the first one!


Any tips on how to remove them? Sheer persistence I suspect but my thumb and forefinger are actually quite sore now after all the tugging and pulling - never knew tube removal could be so physical (what a weak sap eh - and this is the easy bit!?!).


Thanks for any advice,

Paul
 

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Only pull on the rubber boot like your doing, not the lead, otherwise it will break. They are very hard to remove. You just need to be ..... that's right, persistent. Also be careful as there may be some residual charge left in those tubes. Discharge each connector by shorting it to the chassis with a screwdriver.



Here is a guide a friend of mine made after he replaced the tubes in his NEC XG 135. I'm sure he would mind me sharing it with you.



http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/jrob...eplacement.htm



Kindest Regards



Mark Ryan
 

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I'm sure these are the same as PG HT boots. It seems everyone has problems with them the first time. The nipple sticking out of the splitter is slightly tapered. Pulling on the boot only serves to tighten the seal. You need to push the boot off. I found that if you take a small flat bladed screw driver and place it at the very end with the blade not the point and push it off rocking it from side to side it comes off pretty easy. Don't try to pry it off in one shot and don't put the screw driver in until it hits something and try to use it as a lever, only touch the boot. Be carefull not to scratch the insulator on the splitter as this can cause arcing down the road.


Chip S.
 

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Paul,


I recommend removing the Blue tube first. Doing so will allow you more room to get your hands down the the HT connector block next to the neck of the blue tube, which will in turn allow you to get a better purchace on the boot. Even if you just loosen the blue tube, you may be able to swing the neck around enough to get better access


They are a real pain, you just need to be persistant. I found this bit to be the hardest of the whole procedure. If you do end up breaking the lead though, it's not the end of the world, as the new tubes have new HT leads fitted, and the old ones can be easily replaced if need be


I hope this helps


Regards


John
 

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I use the Chip S method of boot removal, but I use a 40 year old screwdriver that I got at a yard sale. Its soo old it doesn't have any sharp edges left on it. I use this screwdriver specifically because it doesn't have any sharp edges left, and I can pry up the boot with it without too much fear of wrecking the boot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Finished, the boots, and the tube replacement!! :) Ahh, I think I deserve a lie down and a drink now.


I eventually just slit the sides of the boots and pulled them off easy enough (the old tubes are toasted anyway).


I've actually just finished replacing all 3 tubes - this is the first time I have ever attempted anything like this and apart from those boots, everything went like clockwork.


However, the reason it went so well was that I was following John Robinson's excellent guide as posted above by bizzibee. Absolutely superb John, thank you for the time and effort you put in to producing the guide, very, very useful! I could almost feel you looking over my shoulder giving advice at every step - I couldn't have done it without you.


Thanks too to you bizzibee and to you stefuel for your welcome advice (although my patients ran out and I ended up doing it brute force style - not recommended I hasten to add!).


Well I suppose thats the easy bit over, still have to setup and converge etc :( but I'll leave that for a few days 'til I get my HTPC back up and running (hard drive died, warranty replacement on its way). I have a copy of a guide for convergence as well entitled "NEC CRT Projector Convergence Guide" which I think is also attributable to John. I'll be making good use of it (and the advice given here on AVS by the likes of Guy Kuo, KennyG, Cookie etc, etc, and all you guys who give up time explaining things for us newbies, much appreciated my friends, much appreciated)


Now, I feel very proud of myself at the moment I must admit. I'll just check that the tubes are still running ok (did a quick unsubtle convergence at low brightness/contrast just to make sure everything still worked!) and then I'll tidy everything away ready for the next step then sit down and relax for the rest of the day with a big grin on my face - I think I deserve that if I say so myself!


Edit: Just read gn2's boot removal method, I never thought of trying that, seems to be the easiest solution of them all - well done Paul.

kind regards,

Paul
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Paul Butler
However, the reason it went so well was that I was following John Robinson's excellent guide as posted above by bizzibee. Absolutely superb John, thank you for the time and effort you put in to producing the guide, very, very useful! I could almost feel you looking over my shoulder giving advice at every step - I couldn't have done it without you.
Thanks for the kind words Paul. I'm glad that it all went smoothly for you (except the boots of course!).


Regards


John
 

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Hi Paul,


Glad everything went well.


When you said you had the "NEC CRT Projector Convergence Guide" which one did you mean.


I've seen this one from Mark Rejhon called "NEC XG135 Convergence Calibration HOWTO" See:


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...threadid=90948


However I don't remember see one called "NEC CRT Projector Convergence Guide". Care to share?


I guess you have seen Guy Kuo's "Yikes, Holy Focus Guy Kuo " post regarding Focus. See:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&postid=728595



Anyway glad the tube replacement went smoothly.



Kindest Regards



Mark
 

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Mark,


Thanks for the links. There is also a Convergence guide on my website at http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/jrobbo/NEC/ , along with the tube replacement guide, and the G2 adjustment guide than KennyG posted here a little while ago


Regards


John
 

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Hi John,


Thanks for the link to your site. I didn't have that URL.


Did you reorgansie your site abit. The links I had don't work anymore. Perhaps I'm just loosing my mind. :) That closer to the truth than I would like to admit.


Thanks again



Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi Mark,

Yes, it is the Convergence Guide from John's site above that I am refering to (sorry, I should have clarified the reference).


What I did was to print-off all the information on the XG from posts on AVS and places like John's site to make a sort of giant service/operating manual. I then put all the pages into some sort of order (mech setup, convergence, focus etc) so that it was easy to find what I needed.


Some of the posts are quite technical but John's guides are more of a straight-forward condensed "how to" that I have found the easiest to follow and I am using these to actually do the necessary work whilst refering to the more technical stuff for fine detail if I get stuck or have a query.


I've amassed a veritable encyclopedia of information from many, many posts here and do indeed have many cross references, (Mark Rejhon and John's convergence guides are but one example). Of all the information available, John's are the easiest for me to follow in respect of Tube Replacement, Convergence and G2 setting (I'm totally new to XG's and had a Barco 801 previously that only needed a neck board change so I'm not exactly a tech!). It does pay however to read ALL the posts as there is a mine of information that may (or hopefully may not) be required in any given situation. If you have posted something about an XG then yours truely has read it - might not fully understand it but I've read it!


Information from the likes of Guy Kuo (to name but one of many experts here) are a level above my capabilities - at the moment. In a few months, I'll revisit White Balance, Astig, Focus etc in more detail using the information he (and others) provided and slowly increase the quality of my setup as my experience grows. The tricky bit at the moment is being able to do enough to avoid trashing the projector whilst getting it up and running so its essential that certain basics (setup, convergence, G2, raster sizing etc etc) are correctly established so that in 6 months time I don't end up having have burnt tubes or blown capacitors or whatever because I ignored (or was unaware of) a few simple basic steps right when they are most critical. At my stage of being an XG owner, John's Guides have proven to be ESSENTIAL reading and for me at least, essential practice.


Hopefully, in a years time I'll be waaaaay beyond such "basic" stuff, but at present, without John's input, I'd be totally and utterly 100% screwed!!

Regards,

Paul
 

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Hey Paul,


I know this is too late to help you now, but I just made a discovery that might help the next poor soul who tries this.


If you are having difficulty removing the boots from the HT connector block, simply remove the side panel from the panel from the projector, it's only held in place by two screws. NEC have thoughtfully cut a great big hole in the side of the chassis right where the HT connector block is, allowing easy access! I wish I had known about this earlier!


Regards


John
 

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Sorry I didn't see this earlier, but hopefully this will help someone in the future.

The correct and easy way to remove the boots is to take off the plastic side panel. two screws I believe. That in turn exposes the boots on the splitter. Then it a matter of using your fingures to push the boots up from the bottom of them. They slide right off that way.


Terry
 

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I ended up making a tool just for that purpose. It's U shaped and hooks under the boot to break the vacuum as you use it to pull the boot up and off, works great, no fingers involved, so less chance of beating your hands up.


If anybody wants one I can make them one up and ship it for a nominal fee.


Deron
 

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I use Deron's method, I made a "U" shaped wooden tool that fits tight around the HV splitter, and I can then push upward and remove the boot.
 

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Hi all,


I was playing around with the mechanical setup of my projector yesterday, and realised that I had made some pretty big mistakes in my tube replacement guide with respect the focusing, and the raster centreing. The fact that it worked for me as I had descibed was pretty much a fluke, but it's clearly incorrect. Please accept my apologies for the mis-information.


I'll get bizzibee to edit his post above, and remove the procedure, and just replace it with a URL with the latest, hopefully correct version. It han be found at http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/jrobbo/NEC .


Again, apologies for the inaccurate information, and if anyone finds errors in my guideline, please let me know!


Regards


John
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Quote:
Originally posted by jrobbo
Hi all,


I was playing around with the mechanical setup of my projector yesterday, and realised that I had made some pretty big mistakes in my tube replacement guide with respect the focusing, and the raster centreing. The fact that it worked for me as I had descibed was pretty much a fluke, but it's clearly incorrect. Please accept my apologies for the mis-information.
What!!!?? Guess what I've been working on today!? Yep, the focusing and raster centering (plus a bit of convergence). I'll stop and await your revised guide, although today was more of a serious play around rather than a final setup session.


This is really hard work though, I must admit. The edge focus for all colors was terrible up until about 2 hours into the session (low contrast, pic mute used frequently etc) and just when I was beginning to dispair, tried something different and whoa-ho - just like magic all the problems vanished! Mucho relievedo!


Had I not already seen how good the focus/display really is on an XG I might have settled for an ok focus rather than a good one but I kept at it until I got it right (or at least near enough to keep me amused until I go back and do it properly).


Slooowly working through convergence as well. I think it was KennyG who said that it takes weeks to get the XG even half-way decent never mind perfect - I can see why! I'm concerned that I'll wear out my tubes before I get a chance to watch a movie :eek: (just joking of course - at least I hope I am!).


Anyway, thats enough for today, I ain't rushing this and but will continue tomorrow, probably by scrubbing todays work and starting afresh with the knowledge I gained - I'll go as far as I dare until John gets his revised guide up (to good not to use it!).

Regards,

PAul
 

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Just wanted to chime in on how I got the boots off my XG. I took a pair of "rubber" handled Channel locks. Twisted the boots a little to break any seal on them. Then just pulled up with a little twisting action. It worked perfect and took less than 5 minutes to get all three boots off.


JRobbo

I have been taking some pictures so when I get finished I may update your guide with pics if thats okay with you. I gotta see how much time I have left after I get my convergance done. Hopefully it won't be weeks! But I do have 10 days for XMass off so I know what I'll be doing during that time!


Thanks

Dave


P.S. The guide is very helpful and detailed! At least on the "removal" part, My tubes haven't shipped yet so can't comment on the rest.. ;)
 

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Hi Paul,


The new guide is available, I updated is as soon as I had discovered my errors. Just follow the link that I posted above. Sorry for the inconvenience. Let me know if you think I should make any improvments!


Dave,


Thanks for the kind words. Please, by all means send me pictures, and I'll gladly include them in the guide, thanks for your help!


Regards


John
 

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Hi Guys,

Take the side off and save the frustration, before you seat the new boot into the splitter rub your forehead or side of your nose with your finger and wipe this 'oil' on the splitter stand up, the next time you remove, it will come right off. Old fly-rod trick but it works.


You need to seat the connector all the way down in the splitter for a good connection, if not it will look like little fireworks going off on the tube face and could short to the chassis. Doug
 
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