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Well I have decided to try my first ever HOME theater sub enclosure. Been doing it in car audio for years and now I want to put my home fabrication to the test. I have been told dayton is descent as well as a few others. But here's just a few questions I have righ off the bat.


What are the pros and cons of each


What material is needed



Are sonotubes really thT easy to build


And if so. How do you build one.



Sorry I would search more but it's hard now since my laptop died on me. So I have to post everything from my phone



I just want a good 12" driver and plate amp and some ideas or build logs would be great.


My living roo

is about 16x20 And pretty square. Any ideas ??? Cuz I can't wait to get a build log started on this!!
 

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A great place to start if you're limiting yourself to 12" drivers would be a Shiva-X in a 6cuft box tuned around 20hz. There have been a couple of builds like this recently and it sounds like everyone's been pretty happy with theirs (I think one person had some issues but that sounds like it's case specific so no worries).


Another option would be to try to find someone with some of the NHT surplus 10" subs (I know one member had mentioned recently he had a 4-pack he was willing to part with for ~$100). Four of those, ported, matched with four of the NHT surplus amps (link below) would be a killer first project if you have the space. Oh yeah, do you have any space restrictions? I know you mentioned in the Subwoofer section that your budget is around $350 but forgot to ask about space...

http://home.comcast.net/~jhidley/


I just got a 4-pack of the amps for sale there (Foster plate amps) and they really deliver for the price!
 

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You have to remember to add in cost for a hpf too. With a driver that small in a room that big but not huge will demand a lot from a single driver. I don't worry about one because I have a larger driver in a big enclosure and rarely push it very hard. Just don't want the guy to spend his time building one just to bottom it on an attempt to play wotw at reference levels.
 

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i am building a SONOSUB right now and its pretty easy... here is the link to what i am building...
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=34111


if you want some pics i can send them to you. but it you have woodworking tools already this is a pretty easy build. Also if you live in the Dallas Texas area i have enough of the 20" tube and the 6" port to build another one and will sell it to you cheap and show you some of what i have done on mine...
 

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I just completed my first sub build and it is a sonotube. I went with the shiva-x after many months of scanning these forums. I had two pieces of sonotube, an 18" diameter, and a 24" diameter. I wanted to use the 18" but it had too much water damage from sitting outside. I went with the 24". The problem i ran into was the height of the enclosure was much shorter with the bigger tube and to get enough space for what i figured an 18hz tune the total volume is around 8cf instead of the recommended 6cf. I am not running a hp filter yet and i am powering it with one side of a mackie fr2500 which is supposed to be about 750 watts. I am not pushing it too hard until i get the hp filter and i can tell you from what i've heard so far, it sounds amazing. I totally understand now why these guys do what they do here in this forum! I don't have a lot of experience with high quality equipment so my only comparison is cheaper commercial subs but there is no comparison at all.


It was an easy build, did it in one afternoon. Mine will not be my final enclosure so i did not paint the endcaps or cover the tube with anything. I wanted to make sure it sounded good before i built my final enclosure. My wife wants a traditional looking box that matches the rest of the speakers.
 

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The Sonotube route worked well for me, not having a table saw or wood shop. Alls that is needed is a jig saw, staple gun and a drill.

I was lucky to have a company that sold the sonotubes near by and they had some offcut 24" diameter pieces they cut to 24" tall. They were nice enough to give them both to me at no cost.

The end caps are 3/4" mdf that were cut for me at Home Depot coming home with 24" x 24" pieces then cut to circles with the jigsaw.

They are covered in flat black naugahyde/vinyl material purchased at Joann Fabric wrapped around the tube that looks really nice. The top of the tube is covered with 3/8" plywood cut in a circle covered with the material and glued on the top to cover the staples where the material is attached.

The feet are 1/2" x 6" carriage bolts covered with black automotive tubing to cover the bolt. They are very strong and sturdy.

I wish I had taken pictures through the steps of building them.

The original drivers were Kicker 18" drivers which I have switched out with 18" ED 190v.2 drivers. The Kickers had a bit more punch but the ED's put out alot more overall volume. They are driven by a Behringer EP2500 bridged.

They sound great and really rock the room.

 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by goonstopher /forum/post/16895694


Damn maybe I am overdoing the size of my sonos!


19OV.02's in dual 70" tall 25" diameter sonos tuned to 15hz, wired to 4ohms with 650 watts each.

this is pretty much what i built, and i am very happy with them. i used 8" sono for the port, no flares, i think 30" long (maybe 32"?)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Winslow /forum/post/16874481


The Sonotube route worked well for me, not having a table saw or wood shop. Alls that is needed is a jig saw, staple gun and a drill.

I was lucky to have a company that sold the sonotubes near by and they had some offcut 24" diameter pieces they cut to 24" tall. They were nice enough to give them both to me at no cost.

The end caps are 3/4" mdf that were cut for me at Home Depot coming home with 24" x 24" pieces then cut to circles with the jigsaw.

They are covered in flat black naugahyde/vinyl material purchased at Joann Fabric wrapped around the tube that looks really nice. The top of the tube is covered with 3/8" plywood cut in a circle covered with the material and glued on the top to cover the staples where the material is attached.

The feet are 1/2" x 6" carriage bolts covered with black automotive tubing to cover the bolt. They are very strong and sturdy.

I wish I had taken pictures through the steps of building them.

The original drivers were Kicker 18" drivers which I have switched out with 18" ED 190v.2 drivers. The Kickers had a bit more punch but the ED's put out alot more overall volume. They are driven by a Behringer EP2500 bridged.

They sound great and really rock the room.

The bass in Alan's room is very good and his bass shakers blend in seamlessly. Alan was gracious enough to have me in his home to see and hear his system. He has a very nice set up. Once again Alan, thank you.
 

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"Alan's are sealed."


James (MKtheater) how have you been? Following his awesome thread with his amazing setup was what helped me decide to go with the Sono Subs. He was also very helpful answering questions and a great guy.


"The bass in Alan's room is very good and his bass shakers blend in seamlessly. Alan was gracious enough to have me in his home to see and hear his system. He has a very nice set up. Once again Alan, thank you"


Mike (mjg100) thanks for the nice words. It was a pleasure having you visit and being able to talk the hobby with someone who understands whats going on.

The bass shakers , though not everyone is a fan, for me is a nice balance with the subs. Plenty of impact.


"Wouldn't a bridged ep2500 be too much power for the 19ov.02?


I was told to run it 4ohm parallel so each gets 650 watts"


Goonstopher - I am using the bridged amp to actually to drive 2 subs configured in an 8 ohm load to the amp.

If you are driving just one sub, you can always turn the amp down with plenty of headroom. If you ever add another sub you have the power to go.
 
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