AVS Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

Long time lurker first-time poster, need some advice from the experienced members here. I have a sunroom 135” W X 290” L with a slanted ceiling with a height of 111” on the longer and 84” on the shorter side. This sunroom is hardly used and gets really hot in California summers, even though it has a couple of air conditioning vents and double pane windows. I want to convert it into a theater room with a small wet bar on one end and an AT screen on the other. It would not have a proper theater seating, though we might center a recliner for our small family of 3 when we are watching movies, otherwise, it would mostly be used as a lounge where friends would come over for a drink and watch games.

I need advice on how to close in the sunroom without making permanent modifications. I’m ok putting up drywall to cover up the glass(if required) but do not want the glass panes to be removed all together.

Adding some pictures for reference. Any help is highly appreciated.

Thanks
 

Attachments

·
RETIRED theater builder
Joined
·
34,080 Posts
You should probably get a mini-split AC just for this room. If you are serious about creating a theater space, I think drywall over ALL the windows on the walls and ceiling is the best path. The fact that the door is on the end of the room opposite the wet bar is a problem, You shouldn't cover the door with an AT screen and the wet bar would crowd the screen wall.


One thing to think about would be shading the windows on the outside with solar mesh screens, that might help make the room livable. do both the roof panels and the windows.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply Big.
Actually I forgot to mention that there is another entry to the room, I thought it was obvious from the pictures, my bad. Please see the new attachment.
One related question, is it ok to just have the insulation and then drywall from inside? Or is there anything I can add in to improve sound isolation. I’m not concern about sound leaking inside the house, just want to keep it from leaking outside. Would you recommend using sound insulation products like OC703 or OC705 in place of pink insulation?
 

Attachments

·
RETIRED theater builder
Joined
·
34,080 Posts
I saw that entry, I'm more concerned about the location of exits from the house.
You should use two layers of 5/8 drywall with Green Glue to cover the windows, you may need to add additional framing in the each window recess as each window looks too big to span with the drywall, Pink would be fine for his application you need to think about how to make the windows look "normal" from the outside.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,360 Posts
My concern from a building science perspective would be condensation in those window pockets.........


A double layer of drywall will be in the 20-30 perms rating......even painted it will still be over 10 perms, which is not considered a vapor retarder.



In a typical building windows account for approx 50% of your heating and cooling BTU load, which is long for they have a very low R value compared to a wall assembly.


Combine a high perm product with a low R space that will fluctuate wildly in temp and its ripe for condensation........it will be trying to drive moisture both ways thru that drywall all the time.

Condensation is function of humidity and temp.....so temps it happens at will vary based on humidity, couple that with rapid large temp swings and you have a huge condensation window.....pun intended.


BTU`s always move towards cold and with it, they carry moisture......glass has a 0 perm rating so nothing will dissipate that direction . Moisture is always looking for a cold surface to condensate on.


Some venting in and out of those pockets could minimize the chances and dry up any that happens......


Your location will make a huge difference on the chances of this happening as well as any humidity control you have in the building ........you could be fine or it could turn to a black mold rotting mess in that cavity. Just some thing to be aware of and check for your area.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I saw that entry, I'm more concerned about the location of exits from the house.
You should use two layers of 5/8 drywall with Green Glue to cover the windows, you may need to add additional framing in the each window recess as each window looks too big to span with the drywall, Pink would be fine for his application you need to think about how to make the windows look "normal" from the outside.

We have another exist just before we enter the sunroom. In fact, we never use the exit in the sunroom.
So just to be clear, I should have

  1. Something to make the window look normal from outside
  2. Two layers of 5/8 drywall with Green glue
  3. Pink Insulation
  4. Drywall
Correct?

Big, I'm aware that you also provide guidance over skype/facetime, could you please PM me more details. Though I'm in the planning phase, I might need more help in the future.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
My concern from a building science perspective would be condensation in those window pockets.........


A double layer of drywall will be in the 20-30 perms rating......even painted it will still be over 10 perms, which is not considered a vapor retarder.



In a typical building windows account for approx 50% of your heating and cooling BTU load, which is long for they have a very low R value compared to a wall assembly.


Combine a high perm product with a low R space that will fluctuate wildly in temp and its ripe for condensation........it will be trying to drive moisture both ways thru that drywall all the time.

Condensation is function of humidity and temp.....so temps it happens at will vary based on humidity, couple that with rapid large temp swings and you have a huge condensation window.....pun intended.


BTU`s always move towards cold and with it, they carry moisture......glass has a 0 perm rating so nothing will dissipate that direction . Moisture is always looking for a cold surface to condensate on.


Some venting in and out of those pockets could minimize the chances and dry up any that happens......


Your location will make a huge difference on the chances of this happening as well as any humidity control you have in the building ........you could be fine or it could turn to a black mold rotting mess in that cavity. Just some thing to be aware of and check for your area.
Can't say I understood everything you said (because of my limited knowledge), but now I know that condensation is another thing I have to think about. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
1)normal
2) insulation
3) two layers of DW with GG


adding another air space turns it into a triple leaf which is bad for sound isolation.
Thanks for the confirmation BIG. Maybe you missed my earlier message, could you please PM me details about the remote consultation you provide.
 

·
Registered
JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | B&W 802D3, HTM1D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
Joined
·
8,818 Posts
We have another exist just before we enter the sunroom. In fact, we never use the exit in the sunroom.
So just to be clear, I should have

  1. Something to make the window look normal from outside
  2. Two layers of 5/8 drywall with Green glue
  3. Pink Insulation
  4. Drywall
Correct?

Big, I'm aware that you also provide guidance over skype/facetime, could you please PM me more details. Though I'm in the planning phase, I might need more help in the future.
If it were me, I'd build a false wall where that window and outdoor exit is. Maybe make that into a room behind your screen accessed only from outdoors. You can put all your gear in there, subwoofers even if you wanted (in infinite baffle). Then I'd drywall all the windows and ceiling. If it were me, I'd probably drywall that ceiling flat not angled. Then you enter the room via the doors you showed from the house, to your left is a wall with the screen and behind that all the gear etc.

This is similar to how my room is laid out. It's a 12x24 room but the theater is 12x21 with 12x3 reserved for the theater "closet" behind the screen. I can enter it via the house but it wouldn't really matter how it's entered. You don't go in there often.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
If it were me, I'd build a false wall where that window and outdoor exit is. Maybe make that into a room behind your screen accessed only from outdoors. You can put all your gear in there, subwoofers even if you wanted (in infinite baffle). Then I'd drywall all the windows and ceiling. If it were me, I'd probably drywall that ceiling flat not angled. Then you enter the room via the doors you showed from the house, to your left is a wall with the screen and behind that all the gear etc.

This is similar to how my room is laid out. It's a 12x24 room but the theater is 12x21 with 12x3 reserved for the theater "closet" behind the screen. I can enter it via the house but it wouldn't really matter how it's entered. You don't go in there often.
Nice Idea, in fact, I was planning to have an AT screen and want to keep all my gear behind it, since I wouldn't have much space left after creating a bar. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
1)normal
2) insulation
3) two layers of DW with GG


adding another air space turns it into a triple leaf which is bad for sound isolation.
Jeff, I received your message but couldn't reply to it since I have fewer than 15 post count. Could you please PM me your contact details as well? I just don't want to create unnecessary posts to reach 15 counts.

Thanks
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top