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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Heres the deal.


I just bought and set up a new G15 on the same 78" wide matte finish screen I had my G1000 on. Its almost impossible for me to watch this at nite unless I have a ton of lights on in the room. It works beautifully during the day in my solar home...the whole south wall is windows....but at nite having to have the lights on or walk around afterwords like one of the children of the damned just doesn't cut it. I want a movie experience in the room...besides it hides the mess on my coffee table and the new Rack sitting out in the room. Where the hell is that carpenter to finish putting the new door on? OK, thats another story I suppose.


I am waiting for the new Dilard to do the calibration and waiting for a much larger Stewart Greyhawk to arrive so....


Where can I get inexpensive large ND filters on the web or can anyone here help me?


I think I may want/need a used part thats sitting in someones back room that may have been used on a film projector or if all else fails a simple gel if that doesn't distort the picture. This is a temporary solution after all.


Any help here would be appreciated.


Larry



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G15 D-ILA

Lexicon MC1 7.1 system

Radeon Based HTPC

NHT, velodyne & bag end speaker systems

Panasonic, Dish, HDTV recording setup.
 

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Doesn't Stewart also make a "BlackHawk" screen? I'm not kidding. I remember this from somewhere.
 

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My 9015 has a brightness control although I just leave it at zero (no adjustment). Have you tried that? Sunglasses? Maybe you would prefer to backlight the "stage" which has the effect of shutting down the eye's aperture. Vince
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Knocking down the brightness has some effect but then affects other aspects of the pic. Its sunglasses, Dilard, or an ND filter I'm afraid. Jezz...looking like a raver watching Gone With the Wind. Interesting


Larry


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G15 D-ILA

Lexicon MC1 7.1 system

Radeon Based HTPC

NHT, velodyne & bag end speaker systems

Panasonic, Dish, HDTV recording setup.
 

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What about undervolting the bulb? This would have the advantage of increasing bulb life, but it would also change the color temp of the light.
 

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I am pretty sure the notion of reducing lamp power came up some months ago and I think the conclusion was that it is not feasible. The lamp wants to run at its design spec and will not tolerate anything else. I want to say that someone associated with JVC Pro said this, but don't quote me.
 

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Larry,


You might try Edmund Scientific or Edmund Optics at
http://www.edmundoptics.com


They have neutral density film if I recall.


I am in the same boat you are - I haven't setup the

system yet - but I have a screen about the same size

as yours - GrayHawk, though - and a G15.


I expect to need to tune the light output with ND filters.


If you find something good - post it - I'd be interested.


Greg
 

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What bulb technology is used in these projectors?



Thanks William (below)


[This message has been edited by bgeery (edited 07-24-2001).]


[This message has been edited by bgeery (edited 07-24-2001).]
 

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You mean to say it's too bright?


I didn't think I've ever hear that on this forum.


 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Frank,


Too Bright on that sise of a screen in a dark room though I am getting used to it somewhat. Still waiting for Mark Hunter to announce the REAL arrival date of a new bouncing Dilard...version XX to tone it down. A larger greyhawk is on order.


(subtle hint Mark)


Greg,


Thanks for the tip. I was really looking for glass rather than a gel as I can get gels here pretty easily it seems. I looked on Edmunds and haven't found a glass based filter so far but am going to order a piece of specialized glass for my new hushbox affair anyway. If I find a piece of glass with something less than the 55% reduction in brightness specified on the one I DID find I will let you know.


Larry





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G15 D-ILA

Lexicon MC1 7.1 system

Radeon Based HTPC

NHT, velodyne & bag end speaker systems

Panasonic, Dish, HDTV recording setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Greg


Thanks for digging but all of them are too small for this lens unfortunatly. I need a glass...not mounted methinks.


I'll I think simply live with it until the new version of Dilard arrives.


Thanks again


Larry


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G15 D-ILA

Lexicon MC1 7.1 system

Radeon Based HTPC

NHT, velodyne & bag end speaker systems

Panasonic, Dish, HDTV recording setup.
 

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This is the first I've heard of someone complaining that their own projector was too bright. I've heard others say that such and such a projector must be too bright, because it was twice as bright as their own projector, and since their own projector seemed plenty bright, a much brighter projector would be too bright. I've always thought that that was just incorrect, since your eyes would adjust to the added brightness. So, I'm confused as to how a projector could be too bright. Also (obviously), turning the lights off doesn't make the projector any brighter, so as long as your eyes stay on the screen, and adjust to that brightness, I wouldn't think turning the lights on or off would affect how much the brightness hurt your eyes.


As a point of reference, I have a G20 (30% brighter than the G15), projecting on the exact same size screen as you, and it doesn't seem too bright at all. My projector is calibrated, and I have a Grayhawk, though, so maybe that's the difference...


- Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Dave


I think thats the key. Greyhawk and calibration. More may be due to calibration than anything else. The whites especially in credits almost seem like they bloom with my G15 as it is. Seems "grainy" as well.


My JVC digital calibrated G1000 was smoother overall. We'll see what magic Dilard can do.


Larry


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G15 D-ILA

Lexicon MC1 7.1 system

Radeon Based HTPC

NHT, velodyne & bag end speaker systems

Panasonic, Dish, HDTV recording setup.
 

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Larry,


Are you sure they are all too small?


They have some that are 60mm, which is just over 2 inches

in diameter.


Now the lens on a G15 is 4 inches in diameter - but not

all of that is used by the light beam.


You can use a Panamorph with a G15 - and if you go to the

Cygnus website and use their Panamorph calculator - if you

put anything over about 2.12 inches into the "spot size"

window, the calculator will report "FAIL".


So although the G15 lens may be 4 inches - the G15 spot size

may be more like 2 inches - so the 60mm ND filter would be

workable.


That doesn't mean you can screw the ND filter onto the G15

lens - you may have to get a filter holder and find some

way of mounting that in front of the projector - but I

think you can do it.


By the way, does anyone remember what the optimal number of

foot-lamberts of luminosicity on the screen should be?


I believe it is somewhere in the ballpark of 20 to 50

foot-lamberts - but is there a nominal "best" value?


Thanks.


Greg
 
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