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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been a strong proponent of LCD panels - and have bought a few 30" and 37" Aquos panels for around the house - but through an ironic twist of fate I have been using an old 32" Sony Wega CRT in my home theater. Eww!


Well, time to remedy that. As noted, I am a fan of LCD for all the right reasons for me, among them that my other panels are on literally 18 hours a day, in bright rooms, wall mounted, with mostly static images (nuff' said!)... but in the case of my home theater, it's for movies only, so it will only be on a few hours at a time, in a darkened room, and does NOT need to be wall-mounted. So all-in-all, I think plasma is a good choice here. Oh, and it'll cost 1/3 of an equivelent LCD, which is a bonus that I'm usually willing to "overlook" :)


Okay, background aside, here's my dilemma: my cabinetry is 40 1/16" wide - plus or minus 1/16" depending upon seasonal humidity (wood swelling).


I'm looking at the Panasonic 42" because I'd like to go bigger than 37", but I think it'll be tight. The Panny spec says, "Width = 40.2" (Has to be the commercial version 'else the speakers ruin the width for me).


So anyone who has a 42" Panny - ideally the TH42PWD7UY - can you please give me an exact, real-world side-to-side width measurement of your set. I stopped by BB tonight to sneak a measurment, but they didn't have any, and I'd like to order this from PC or VA soon.


Many, many thanks!


Jcd


PS: Since I'm here, do the commercial versions typically have the "shut down issue" reported elsewhere?
 

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Jcd,

I just received my TH42PWD7UY on Thursday. I'm sorry to tell you that your cabinet is a tad small. The maximum width is just a shade over 40 1/8" on the back of the bezel. The front of the bezel is slightly less than 40", but there is a slight taper to the back that makes the overall width too big for you.


G
 

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And before you start rationalizing that you just might be able to squeaze it in there, I'd caution you that rarely is anything truly squared, including the panasonic bezel -- and definitely cabinetry. So even though a single dimension might just fit, the difference in squareness will aggravate your life if you try.


Can you modify the cabinetry? Or better yet, have your guy custom trim it in? The difference between a PWD and a 40" LCD could pay for alot of trim carpentry!
 

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GoBows,


Incidently, I have a 42PWD on the way and am trying to make preparations. How THICK is the bezel? What I mean by that is what is the dimension front to back of the bezel?
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by snbeall
GoBows,


Incidently, I have a 42PWD on the way and am trying to make preparations. How THICK is the bezel? What I mean by that is what is the dimension front to back of the bezel?
Just the bezel = 1 3/4"
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by jcd
I'


PS: Since I'm here, do the commercial versions typically have the "shut down issue" reported elsewhere?
"Shutdown Issue" was a problem that affected both Commercial and Consumer 6th Generation Models manufactured on/before Sep 03 . It's been fixed with the new production.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
GoBowsGo

Thanks for the dimension. Hmmm... I'm thinking maybe some sandpaper will do the trick - on either the bezel and/or the cabinet :)

snbeall

Yes, good point about the variance. Good news is that I AM the custom guy who made the maple cabinetry, so I can vouch for it's squareness. And I work for cheap, so the saving in cabinetry work doesn't really help fund my LCD ;)

BruZZi

Thanks for the confirmation on the "shut-down issue" ! That's good news.



Actually... what I'm trying to work out on my head is how to maybe add a mounting beam/bar somehow inside the cabinet, from which I could mount an articulating wall mount. If I can mount an arm in such a way that it pulls clear of the cabinet face, then I could bring the 42" in at a slight diagonal angle to gain the extra inch or so I need. Then I could square the picture to the viewing spot as needed once I pull it clear of the cabinet.


The cabinet is pretty solid, but the sides I would mount the beam to are interior sides, as I have pocket doors (false interior side + pocket door space + real outer side).


Oh, I'll figure something out - thanks greatly for the input!


I don't mean to keep this thread going on and on, but since I have the kind help of some current owners, one more quick question: I read somewhere that the 7 series did away with discrete IR codes. Is this true? (Hope not, cause that kills the deal right there)


Many thanks,

Jcd
 

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Note that the factory specifies 2 inches space around the perimeter of all models for proper airflow. If enclosed in a box, air intake and exhaust is needed of approx 850 cfm.


Overheating of the panel shortens its lifespan and may lead to other failures. Ambient temp should not rise over 105 degrees F as measured at the top PDP vent holes after being powered for at least one hour.


So a 40 inch panel should be centered in a 44 inch space horizontal by 28 inch vertical.


T. Wiz


BTW, Discrete IRs for input were to be implemented in the 7 series along with codes for the PIP functions. I believe this was confirmed by an MX user using the codes from a 5 series available at Remote Central
 
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