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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This might be a post with a lot of ramblings, but there are going to be a lot of questions that I have and I need everyone's input has this is my first build. I've been a member here for awhile and read countless dedicated HT posts, but I don't believe I got the answers I needed.


My basement has a few small cracks in the concrete has shown in the photos, but I checked and it's I don't have any water issues. I guess it's from when they finished the house 3 yrs ago and the concrete settled? Would I want to use anything to fill in and smooth over the cracks or are they ok to let alone? If I should use something what should it be?


There's gap from the concrete walls has seen in the photo's all around my basement floor. This is from what I been told in case water ever leaks down my pump can pump it out and away from the house. I also like others have piping and what not running next to the wall. How far away from all this should I start framing for my walls? Do I need to make trap doors or anything to access these things in the future?


You will also notice that I do not have a basement door going to the outside. Stinks!!! I need to add one. I planned to wait till the summer to get a crew in to do it for me before I started my HT, but I figured I could probably start now on framing my walls to get some of it out of the way. I can fit studs and what not down my basement via the stairs and then when I have the outside doorway put in I can bring drywall and other big things in easy to complete the HT. Like I said I was going to wait till summer, but a friend brought up the fact that I could most likely have the framing out of the way and maybe some wiring by then since were about 4 months away from getting a entrance put in.


Thanks in advance for any help. I'm not a noob when it comes to AV equipment, but with building some thing like that I certainly am so please don't flame me, help me out!!!



Judd






Over by the window is where I would want a entrance way put in:





The wall where I'd like to put the screen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I noticed that I have some typos in my drawling. Please disregard those
 

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Another note, you and a friend could bring the studs in through the window, depending on location it might be easier then winding through the house. Don't forget to use PT lumber anywhere wood contacts the concrete like the base plates.


While the basement is wide open I think I would paint the walls with Drilock to limit moisture coming through the concrete. I would also think about sealing up the rim joist area really tight and would consider getting some DIY spray foam kits to treat the entire joist band area.


As for those gaps, grab some concrete repair material and fill them up.


In other words there is a lot to do before bringing materials into the basement and making it harder to move around.
 

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Ok,


Since you are only at the drawing stage I have a couple of suggestions. First I agree with BIG. Get a plastic cover for the sump. A wood cover will cause you nothing but grief in the future.


Second, I would reconsider putting your screen wall on the same wall as your main entrance. I would at the very least rotate the room 180 and have the main entrance at the back of the theater. Or you could rotate 90 to the left which would leave a lot of open space for game room, bar, or kitchenette. You should plan on putting your A/V cabinet at the back or off to the side of the HT, unless you like or are not distracted by little lights blinking and pulsing during a movie. You may also want to come up with a more detailed floor plan of what you actually want in your basement now and in the future.


No harm in drawing and planning. Good luck.


Regards,


RTROSE
 

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Ditto what RTROSE suggests. So many times we see guys show up and their first post is a shot of the framed room and a floor plan and it is all wrong for a number of reasons. We spot so many problems that we scare most of them away from this section of the forum. Draw a good detailed plan and discuss your plans for soundproofing, lighting, plumbing, HVAC isolation seating layout etc,


Once the council of AVS idiots passes on your plan you can start erecting walls.


Read "the best room in the house" thread. We made poor Shawn tear down half of his builders work (actually he just told his contractor to tear it down) and he literally started over on the front half of his room.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Limp Fox /forum/post/18265060


I'm not a noob when it comes to AV equipment

Hi Judd,


Best advice I can offer to help you out is worry about equipment last. Don't even think about it. For the moment, consider what your needs are, and what you plan to use the room for. Is it dedicated movie watching, will it be a family room with an open floor plan, are acoustics important to you, how many people use the space, etc., etc. You are at a good stage at this point, but don't buy the horses before you build the barn so to speak. Purchase the equipment around the room, not the other way around. Best of luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you everyone for your responses. BIGmouth I see you post A LOT in different threads that I have read and always have good points of views and share your knowledge so I am thankful you posted in my thread.


I'm guessing I can get a plastic cover at Lowes and/or Home Depot?


Bringing the studs in through the window was some thing I thought about since both windows have countless yard space so pulling a truck on either side will not be a issue.


From reading the posts I gather that I should fix the cracks and fill in the gaps. Then once done I should paint drylock on the floor and walls correct? After that I can proceed with foaming the joists and once that is done I would be ready for framing.


RTROSE. I see what your saying about moving the screen area. The reason why I thought about placing it there was bc I knew for sure I cold hang the PJ from the wall. I figured if I went along the wall where the window is (where I want to put a outside entrance) then I'd have to have the PJ sitting on a shelf of some sort since that main beam I'm sure would get in the way. I also thought about having it over where the sump pump and window are so maybe I should reconsider one of those two spots.


I'd like to know when I frame how far away from the piping and pump I should be with my new walls and if I ever need false walls to access those areas in the future? ...but perhaps going one step at a time and painting the concrete and sealing the joints should be done first.


I pretty much know how I'd like things laid out down in the basement. I might "tweak" here n there, but for the most part I don't want it to just be a dedicated theater. I'd like to have it more of a Family room consisting of being able to watch movies, play video games, watching tv and listening to music while playing board games. We have a nice 50" in our living room which is nice for daily viewing but have a Family room/theater in the basement would be a nice getaway. Especially for me if the Wife gets annoying
I don't think I am going to go with just recliners. Since it will be a Family area consisting of more than just a dedicated HT I think a sectional would work best. This way the Family can sit together and at either end it can recline if need be. O one last thing. I'd like to have my PC desk in a corner some where so I am able to surf the net down there and free up the office upstairs for our new arrival when he or she sleeping in their own room. I also planned from reading on this board to add sound insulation and some acoustical sound treatment on the wall to help with waves. There would not be the need for plumbing since I have a half bath at the top of the steps and no bar needed either. Just a nice Family room. I would of coarse be routing some HVAC vents into the room. And the AV cabinet I would like to have out of the view of my screen so I am not distracted.


I'm going to read the best room in the house thread

Thanks

Judd
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Bigmouth.


I am currently reading the thread and I did skim over this a long time ago. Good pointers in there.



I do plan on using the green sound glue and putting up two sheets of drywall on the walls. Just wasn't sure if I would have to go with dual 5/8" drywall or something else.
 

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You should build access panels or doors, where ever you will need to possibly gain access to at a later time, such as shut off valves, electrical panels, sewer clean outs and the like. So only worry about those areas when you are building your walls. As for the placement of your projector most of the new PJ's have varying amounts of lens shift so they have lots of placement flexibility. There are several PJ calculators that will show you screen sizes with throw distances so you could easily calculate what size of screen you could have from say a shelf mount off of your beam. Food for thought. The more you read the more you will learn, however the more you learn the more you'll need to learn. Vicious cycle for sure.


We are here to help and guide you along the way. Oh, and we are also very good at helping you spend your money when it comes to that point too.


Regards,


RTROSE
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the response again rtrose. Is there a thread by any chance that talks about building access doors while still being able to maintain good sound with in the room? I ask this b/c I'm sure a false wall would play some role in the sound. I skimmed but didn't see anything. I will look again.


The PJ I have my eyes set on is the Panasonic AE4000u. I'd like to get it from Visualapex and when doing so I will most likely get one of their packages to include screen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey everyone I quick did two more sketches to add to the post. I originally thought about splitting the basement into two since the theater/family room would sound a lot better being enclosed, but i thought perhaps having a walk way at the bottom of my steps would be stupid. I decided to let you all be the judge of that and see what you all think. The beam i have in my basement (has seen in the pics) would pretty much be the splitting point of the two rooms. I keep thinking the screen on that side would be best even if I put a wall up there causing a walk way. Reason being is b/c the rooms higher on this side and I could hang the PJ from the ceiling thus avoiding (imo) many issues like people easily being able to walk in front of it at a lower spot, having a better viewing experience and just having a more open experience looking onto the viewing area. It's hard to explain but if I look into the other side it looks to small and narrow and not natural. I could always switch the screen on the back wall of these drawings and move the future closer to where the screen is doing a 360 of the room. The unmarked boxes around the room represent the speakers. I did not have much room so I did not add one under the screen, but the center will obviously go there. Please crit these two drawings and let me know your thoughts. I'd also like to add that the sofa and or sectional, what ever I decide to put in, will be some where between 12' to 13' away from the screen. Some where around there is what I came up with using the viewing calculator a few months ago. BTW I did not bother adding the sub or subs (if I go with another) b/c I will have to do freq tests later on to figure out optimal placement.


Thank you.

Judd


 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
bumping to get opinions on the previous post and to find out a answer to my question on the sump pump/piping.... Do I need to make some sort of access wall to get to those things? If so then how would I do it? Would I just leave a area untouched by drywall and put in sound batt followed by some sort of covering?


Thanks

Judd
 

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*Disclaimer*

I am only in the planning stages of mine so really don't have any hands on experience with this

*End Disclaimer*


I would not put the equipment rack up near the front as I would think the lights from the equipment would get in the way (although there many people in here have come up with very cleaver ways of hiding racks)


If I am reading your drawing right the sump pump is in the back corner (bottom left of drawing) correct? Are you planning a riser for seating? If so I would think you could construct a removable section or access hatch in the riser to gain access to the pump. Or maybe two large columns in the back where one has a access door taht will give access to the pump but is designed to look like the column?
 

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Ummmm......We are getting closer. I think IMHO you are doing better in getting your ideas on paper. I think the second drawing is better, however I'm not a big fan (in this particular instance) of the wall or hallway right off of the stairs. Halls are wasted space, and in your situation may make it very difficult to move things ie. furniture and what not up and down the stairs, in and out of the basement. I do like the multi use space on the other side where you have the PC area along with a future workout area. There have been several builds here that have had great successes with keeping the HT open to the other areas of the basement so you might want to keep this option as well.


We are moving in the right direction though! :cool:


Regards,


RTROSE
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Limp Fox /forum/post/18265060


My basement has a few small cracks in the concrete has shown in the photos, but I checked and it's I don't have any water issues. I guess it's from when they finished the house 3 yrs ago and the concrete settled? Would I want to use anything to fill in and smooth over the cracks or are they ok to let alone? If I should use something what should it be?

Cracks should be sealed or fixed. If the cracks are on the concrete slab floor and cracks are small, you can go HD and grab a bottle crack sealer to fill and seal the cracks, if the cracks are bigger, you need also buy some back rods and insert the back rods into the cracks first then seal it.


If you have the cracks on your foundation wall, then it is much more costly to fix, but you should, you don't want to tear down the finished wall later. You can have professional to fix for you, or you can buy DIY kit and do it yourself, basically, you need inject epoxy resin or urethane foam into the cracks. the DIY Kit could cost you anywhere from $200 to $350 depends how many cracks and how wide the cracks are, but still much more cheaper than the professionals. You can check out my build thread to find out more.

Quote:
There's gap from the concrete walls has seen in the photo's all around my basement floor. This is from what I been told in case water ever leaks down my pump can pump it out and away from the house. I also like others have piping and what not running next to the wall. How far away from all this should I start framing for my walls? Do I need to make trap doors or anything to access these things in the future?

You can leave the gap the way it is, just frame your wall away from it, the gap is usually about 1" which means you stud wall will be 1" away from your foundation wall, it is good that you need to leave 1" gap anyway, the 1" air gap there for air to circulate in case you get moisture or you can do like many did, attach 1" polyurethane foam board to add additional insulation, but I choose to leave the 1" gap, it is better for sound isolation (per Ted). Or, you can cover the gap by insert a 1" thick foam board, cut it to 2" strips, insert 1/2" into the gap, then seal the foam board with expansive foam (Great Stuff). As for pipes, you can leave 1/4" gap between pipe and your stud wall, if possible, you could move your pipes closer to the foundation wall. You do need to leave access door or panels to access the clearouts, garden hose shutoff, etc.

Quote:
You will also notice that I do not have a basement door going to the outside. Stinks!!! I need to add one. I planned to wait till the summer to get a crew in to do it for me before I started my HT, but I figured I could probably start now on framing my walls to get some of it out of the way. I can fit studs and what not down my basement via the stairs and then when I have the outside doorway put in I can bring drywall and other big things in easy to complete the HT. Like I said I was going to wait till summer, but a friend brought up the fact that I could most likely have the framing out of the way and maybe some wiring by then since were about 4 months away from getting a entrance put in.

You can start framing, but don't forget fireblocking. Install fireblocking first before you wall is up, it is much easier that way.


Like BIG mentioned, also consider to insulate and seal the rim joists too.


Good luck with your build!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by theWalkinator /forum/post/18296154


You can start framing, but don't forget fireblocking. Install fireblocking first before you wall is up, it is much easier that way.

Do you have any pictures of how you fireblocked your walls before you put them up?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude /forum/post/18296374


Do you have any pictures of how you fireblocked your walls before you put them up?

This is one that I did for the part of wall that has soffit (to box duct trunk in):


If you don't have soffit, just make the 1/2" drywall strip narrower, like 6", attached to the joist along the sill plate on top of the foundation wall, then run a bead of fireblocking caulk. You stud wall top plate will be under the fireblocking material and you attach the top plate through the fireblocking material. Fireblocking material in my township can be 1/2" sheetrock, check with your local code office to make sure what are the allowable materials. For fireblocking seal, I use Great Stuff http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053 fireblocking expansive foam (foam is orange), worked great and it is cheaper than fireblocking grade of caulk (whatever you use, I think it has to be rated at ASTM E814), just make sure that all wires, pipes going through the fireblocking need to be sealed as well, the code requires in case of fire, fire cannot travel vertically up into the joist cavity, thus, fireblocking, I may have a better pictures tomorrow for you.
 
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