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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,


I'm starting construction a new home very soon and I'm taking my home theater changes/mods in for a quote Tuesday (8/9). I've done a lot of research here and other sites (Pro Calculator, SoundProofing, Dolby, DIY, etc...). My theater will be on the 2nd floor directly above the Great Room.


I'd love to get some feedback on some of these items that my builder will be building/installing. (L is referenced from screen to back of room, screen will be 105" 16:9)

1. RISER/STEP

a. riser = 5'9" L x 16" H

b. step = 12" L x 23" W x 8" step.

(is there a best practice or required min L or W?)

c. light/outlets - plan to use $6 light on the steps (thanks BIG) and have 3 or so outlets in the bottom of the riser
2. SEATING

a. 1st row ~ 10'

b. 2nd row ~ 15'

c. 2nd row butt to back of 1st row chair ~ 3'8"

d. back of 2nd row to back wall ~ 10"
3. FALSE WALL

a. depth = 18" (I've asked them to only frame this out by pulling the two doorways forward)

(could I make this shallower to make the room longer?)
4. SOUNDPROOFING

a. Floor - mat?

(I've seen a lot of these on the net but recommendations would be GREATLY appreciated)

b. Walls - 5/8" DW + GG + 5/8" DW


Thank you all very much!

Cory




 

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The 16" riser height jumps out as too high. I'd also push both doors back the 18" so as to not box the front speakers with near wall early reflections and cancallations caused by near boundary side walls.


(pm sent)
 

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I do like your original plan but if I were in your shoes I would weigh the options of flipping the space and putting the screen wall over the windows and enter in the rear. That would avoid the early side wall refections as mentioned and save the expense of moving those doors. It would also allow for a wider 2.35:1 screen if you want to do CIH.


Make the front row your primary seating. I realize this alternative plan will limit the space for a rear row seating riser.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Ted, Thanks BIG.


WAF on covering the window, BIG. So my two options as I see them are...

1. Current false wall is 9'8" in width. See if builder can widen (I don't know how much has to be kept for door frame, etc.)

2. Remove false wall, move doors back to original spot, hang non-AT screen on wall and place speakers beside it (~1' of space on either side according to my drawing.)


Also, any minimum clearance from speakers in the false wall to side wall that will eliminate the early reflection?


Thanks everyone.

Cory
 

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Actually thinking about this in the PM instead of the AM, you will always have side wall reflections no matter where the side wall is located. That is why many guys put acoustical treatments on the side walls. They can be a DIY item.


You could use your original plan and treat the ALL the walls be hind the false wall. Then go out into the room and treat there as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Awesome! Thank you BIG! Based on Ted's feedback, I'm going to make the false wall 2' deep...

Any recommendations on soundproofing? I've looked at soundproofingcompany and my tentative plan is to have dw/gg/dw on the walls and MLV on the floor. To me the floor is most critical because the Great Room is directly below.


I think the walls should be ok. Worried about the floor.


Thanks,

Cory
 

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The better layout is the room flipped end for end. I also had assumed the upper floor wasn't framed or sheetrocked, as the location of the bathroom sink and toilet changes.


Treating all the walls in the AT space doesn't deal with 1/4 wavelength cancellations. The flipped room doesn't have this issue, as the speakers won't be within 3.5 feet of the side walls. And that window can be covered over and given some soundproofing, instead of having bass pass right through it.


The floor is a concern, but the window willl undo your sound proofing efforts. Would the WAF change if the W has full knowledge of the consequences of keeping the window?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ted, soundproofing is my #1 concern. But for my wife, equally important is the appearance of the room.


PM sent regarding window...
 

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Just a crarification, the screen wall is a false wall with acoustic fabric. The front wall is behind the screen wall, often 2' away from the screen wall. This front wall is solid, and generally 1" from the originql wall
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ted White,


You may notice from my floor plan but I'm the guy that just talked to you on the phone. Thanks again for your help. Now working on the wife and/or trying to figure out a new way to layout the upstairs altogether to eliminate the window.


I really appreciate the advice and warnings from all of you guys.


Cory
 

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Glad to hear you're going for a 24" deep screenwall rather than 18". Mine is 18" and I wish I had gone 24. Trying to fit commercial or even DIY subs in 18" is a PITA, and mains sound better with a little room to breathe from the front wall as well - unless you're going to use in-wall designed L/C/Rs, that is.


Remember when you're thinking about how much space you have behind the screenwall that framing takes up depth as well, and shoehorning things around and on top of the framing is a hassle and can alter your options on placement. Not that I've been there...



Best,

C.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Haha... Thanks for the advice and encouragement, Cerdic.
 

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Let me insert some suggestions for electrical.


1) Add a whole house surge suppressor. Surprisingly inexpensive addition to protect electronics and computers.


2) Add lots more outlets, especially in the HT room. Again - not very expensive.


3) Add a 20 Amp line for the HT room for all of the equipment. Two would be better. Not very expensive.


4) If you will be hanging a large TV on the wall, it would be cool to add a couple of studs to support the weight/bolt the TV to.


I did all of the above when I built out my HT room in the basement and it turned out very well.
 
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