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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thanks to the gracious generosity of our own MC Maniac I am borrowing a Sony 1292Q to test in my home theatre. Not only did he lend me the projector but he delivered it to my house as well! When my helper didn't make it, the two of us lugged the thing up two sets of stairs to my HT.


I am in the beginning stages of setting it up. I adjusted the universal optical coupling rings to the appropriate settings for the screen size and projector position. I also reset to factory settings.


Following the manual's setup procedure I also set the Red and Blue gun's convergence angle by loosening the set screw and aligning the holes in the appropriate positions for my screen size (110" wide 16:9). What is the best way to change the tube's position? The manual just mentions using a screwdriver.


The problem I am having is that I can't get the red to align with the blue and green. With the cross-hatch pattern up, the red is about 4 inches from the others. Using the keypad I can get it to within an inch or so then I run out of adjustment.


The red cross-hatch is to the right of the others on the screen.


Should I adjust the red's mechanical convergence farther? I would not have the proper holes aligned at that point. Or did I miss something?


I will recheck that the projector is perfectly perpendicular to the screen. I doubt if it was off it would make that much of a difference. But then again I've only taken the first step on the CRT road so I have to not assume anything...


Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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I sent this by email to a guy who asked a few questions the other day maybe some of it will be of use to you. Fingers are too tierd to type more about this ATM.


This is very quick and dirty, and not optimal, plan on 6 to 10 hrs to get a 1292 setup properly, and a further 6 after that final tweaking flapping etc. Perfection doesnt come without a price. Thats TIME.




"The trick is to forget the blue and red tubes.


Turn on the green only. Work on getting the geometry of the green perfect. Zero all the settings by pushing the left and right arrow toegther and then the up arrow, to confirm the reset for every function. ( bow , key, Zone etc).


look into the green tube and use the size control, move it around with the centre zone control. Fill up the tube face with the pattern. Then pull the projector back from the wall till the pic is the right size. refocus the lens.


YOu have to get the centre correct, put up the cross hatch, and use the bow, key,pin to get the picture square and shaped correctly. Tweak it up with the zone control to get the green absolutely square and perfect.


Then turn on the red. use the size, lin, bow,skew etc to get the centre perfectly matched to the green vertically and horizontally. Then the key and pin to get the outside close to matching. Then use the Zone control to perfect it.


The same for the blue.


Some controls are meant to be for centre adjustment others for edges. Get them confused and it will be horrible and difficult."
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info Graham,


I still need to know how to get the red close enough to the green to continue with the digital alignments.


Should I move the red more so that the holes aren't aligned as per the manual's instructions? Or will this make the rest of the setup more difficult? I think once I get the red in line, the rest should be a matter of following your instructions. What is the best way to move the tube assembly once the screw is loosened?


Thanks, James
 

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James,


You may not realize it yet, but the 1292 loaner comes with a price..


The plan is to have you become a 1292 pro then come out and redo mine the way it should be done..


I have always wanted to do the 'holy focus' thing but somehow never had the motivation to do it..


So James, I'll let you have all the fun doing it to mine..


:)


Thanks for your help Graham!


When fully tweaked this CRT puts out an incredible picture..
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Semisentient



Should I adjust the red's mechanical convergence farther? I would not have the proper holes aligned at that point. Or did I miss something?
1. Check that the test pattern is centered on each CRT. The factory settings can be changed so that resetting the electronic adjustments does not center the image.


2. Worry about mechanical alignment not the holes lining up - they're just SMALL, MEDIUM, and LARGE approximations.


3. There are coarse and fine centering adjustments. RGB CENT only adjusts the fine field. For bigger adjustments you need to tweak the coarse values using the center/first ZONE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Quote:
Originally posted by MC Maniac
James,


You may not realize it yet, but the 1292 loaner comes with a price..


The plan is to have you become a 1292 pro then come out and redo mine the way it should be done..


I have always wanted to do the 'holy focus' thing but somehow never had the motivation to do it..


So James, I'll let you have all the fun doing it to mine..


:)


Thanks for your help Graham!


When fully tweaked this CRT puts out an incredible picture..
Yup, I'll get there... May take more than a day or two, but I'll get there!
 

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James,


I followed the steps provided from Graham Johnson. I am now able to align the R G B lines almost completely. The only problem I now have is focusing. If I move the projector about half a foot closer to the screen (trying to get the maximum horrizontal viewable), I lost focus and couldn't figure out how to do it w/ the EM Focus adjustment. But follow Graham Johnson instructions and have a lot of patience and you should be fine. You might want to consider using the zone with different positions to converge the lines.


Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Quote:
Originally posted by Drew Eckhardt
1. Check that the test pattern is centered on each CRT. The factory settings can be changed so that resetting the electronic adjustments does not center the image.


2. Worry about mechanical alignment not the holes lining up - they're just SMALL, MEDIUM, and LARGE approximations.


3. There are coarse and fine centering adjustments. RGB CENT only adjusts the fine field. For bigger adjustments you need to tweak the coarse values using the center/first ZONE.
Thanks Drew


That's the type of advice I need.


Any advice on how to actually move the gun? The manual says to insert a screwdriver and twist. I was wondering if anyone uses a different method.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by SeanChau
James,


I followed the steps provided from Graham Johnson. I am now able to align the R G B lines almost completely. The only problem I now have is focusing. If I move the projector about half a foot closer to the screen (trying to get the maximum horrizontal viewable), I lost focus and couldn't figure out how to do it w/ the EM Focus adjustment.


Sean
You need to read the Dealer/Install manual.

http://www.poohsticks.org/1292/1292IM.pdf


Note that the minimum screen size for a 1292 with stock lenses is spec'd at 72" wide (90" 4:3 diagonal). At that size the HD10F focus knobs are near their limits - if your screen is that small you may be unable to go closer.



EM focus only affects how the electron beam strikes the CRT phosphor and does nothing for optical focus. Optical focus is done using the center + corner focus knobs on each lense plus the L+C rings which control Scheimpflug. Scheimpflug allows the screen to not parallel the CRTs and still have its entire surface in-focus.


The easiest way to get Scheimpflug right is to start with the pjcalc.exe numbers, pull optical focus a few inches back from the screen surface, see where the edges are in focus using an index card, and spin the L/C rings to have each edge focus the same distance from the screen.


For center + corner focus you need to divorce optical and magnetic focus if you don't want to iterate a few times. One way to do this is to look for phosphor grain on the screen with a pair of short focus binoculars. Once optical focus is right you can then fine tune EM focus.


The index card and phosphor grain tips come from Guy Kuo. Read "Holy Focus Guy Kuo" for more details.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Semisentient


Any advice on how to actually move the gun? The manual says to insert a screwdriver and twist. I was wondering if anyone uses a different method.
Prying with a screw driver in those holes works great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Quote:
Originally posted by Drew Eckhardt
Prying with a screw driver in those holes works great.
OK Drew thanks. It was a bit stiff doing it that way so I wanted to make sure I read the instruction correctly.


The hardest thing will be to balance time learning to setup a CRT projector with spending time away from it so my wifes disdain doesn't go farther than "these things sure are huge..."


:D
 

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The only way to set up the tube tow in is as follows.


Put up the centre cross test pattern. Then lift up the brightness as far as you can.


Centre the rasters by looking into the lenses, using the zone adjust and the size controls. ( dont worry about the test pattern yet) Make sure the raster is all the way across the tube face (touching in the corners) and approx 4:3 in aspect ratio.


Do this on all three tubes. Turn the lights off so you can see the tube outlines on the wall/screen. You should be able to see the rasters showing on the outside of the screen.


Just make sure that the rasters of each colour are centred on the face of each tube looking into the lenses. Up till this stage you can basically ignore the center cross.


Now the rasters are centred. Look at the screen and see where the centre cross falls.


The verticle line in the centre should be over the top of each other. Undo the side philips head screws on the red and blue, and shove a screw driver into the adjustment holes and lever the tubes until the verticle lines are superimposed ontop of each other. (sometimes you have to slightly loosen the allen head bolts as well to get the tube to move)



The test pattern is in the same spot on the tube face if you do it like this.



Now use the zone control to move the horizontal line so it is superimposed over the green.


Now your lens tow in is set. Tighten up the screws and move onto the next alignment.
 
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