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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 300W BASH amp from a P*lk PSW505. I want to use this for my game/pc/music room, would go really nice with a Dayton HF 10" (350W).


However, this amp seems to have a high pass filter set quite high, -3db is around 28Hz...

Anyone have an idea how to mod this high pass filter ?

I have soldering experince to do a resistor-swap if needed.

As this amp is right now, I could really use some more low.


The PSW505 was good for a short while, until I became sick of the port noise.


(This will be a side project, I already have an Ultimax 15" on an iNuke nu3000dsp and a pair of SI HT 18's coming)

The old 12" Polk driver can make a good gift (maybe)


28Hz source: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?127145-PSW505-Vs-HSU-VTF-2-MK4-Comparrison


Image of plate amp:



Graph source: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?23534-Dual-SVS-PB10-vs.-Dual-Polk-PSW505
 

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when picking an amp to power my DIY FLH's from BF, those in the know recommended usuaully, the PE BASH 300 as more than adequate, , (tho I run mine at barely 40%)and the spec for the HPF for the amp was stated to be at 17.7Hz.

maybe before you mod, you could check the sub and room response and the sub and the front speakers with REW and a suitable mike. then you'll have a better understanding of what you can improve.

the "similar" looking amp for your POKE may have been moded to protect the sub because they knew what it couldn't do . . .
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This Bash 300 does power my Ultimax 15" at 4ohm, even at just 50% volume just fine !

It would really shine whith a Dayton HF I think...


There are resistors presoldered at R25 and R26, as you suggested, if I could only decode their value.... Anyone ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It has the BASH logo on the plate amp, (see first pic in thread), and the specs of this product state 300W rms.

Also, the layout of the boards and the components on the boards are EXACTLY alike....


Furthermore, it says BASH on the pcb's from the Polk too



Pretty sure this is a Bash 300W
 

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First, good job noting the similarities to the PE amp. It wouldn't surprise me if the pre-amps were exactly the same, or extremely similar. Can't help you with the color codes except to warn you that the blue resistors used by INdigo (BASH) tend to have faded stripes that make them difficult to decode. You are better off measuring them. Actually, I recommend that you verify that R25 and R26 ARE indeed part of the HPF in your amp, and simply calculate replacement values as you see fit. You can find a schematic for an active HPF online, and can quickly determine if these resistors are correct. I would bet that the cap values are the same as the ones used in the PE amp. Good luck.
 
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I have a tutorial on here for the YUNG plate amps, including all you need to know to customize the pre-amp bass response. I'm too lazy to provide a direct link, but the thread is entitled "first impressions....Yung...", or something like that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mobeer4don  /t/1524200/need-help-with-bash-amp-mod/0_100#post_24530991


A part # or production # on the pcb should help answer if they are the same.


What does Fc represent in the bass boost tables? I also have a bash 300 I've thought about tweaking.

Fc would be cut-off frequency, cut-of of the HPF (high pass filter)

I think these boards are stock boards from Bash, the colorcodes seem to be the stock 17.7Hz resistors.... (see table, 1db boost)


I will have to edit my first post, as it is not the amp which is not capable of reproducing below ~28Hz, but the subwoofer driver in this Polk box.


For the past WEEK I have been playing a Dayton Ultimax 15" I have always been playing with an inuke 3000,

and TO MY EARS the Bash amp plays much warmer in tone, smooooooth lows, good slaps, good damping.

Compared to the Behringer, which may go louder, but not cleaner, IMO...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
garciab, is there a dc source in this amp I can jse for a fan when mounting this in a sealed box ?

I suppose there must be one for the dual color led, but anyhing between 6-12v to get some airflow going ? Thanks !!
 

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Yes, the pre-amp circuitry uses +/- 12-15vdc. Having said that, I wouldn't power a fan with that though. Without knowing for sure what current the supplies are capable of delivering, you cannot be sure that you won't introduce problems. Are you planning to completely enclose the amp? If not, no need to worry about cooling it. The steel plate is sized to be a proper heatsink for any devices that need it. As long as the plate is open to 'breathe' and you don't mount it upside down, you should be ok.
 
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