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I have a Toshiba TW56H80 that I have had for two years now. All around, I think this has been a great set and I've been generally pleased with it. Early on, I was having the popping/resetting problem but that hasn't happened for quite some time now. I've always used Video Essentials to keep the levels set right and avoid burn in problems. Generally, I think I've taken good care of the set.


Recently, I purchased a Progressive scan DVD player and an HD STB and wanted to maximize the picture quality. I've never had an ISF calibration done but I have followed instructions for set geometry and do the 56pt convergence. This is when I started to see some problems.


First, when I go into the service mode on the set and run self diagnostics, there is a line that looks like the following:


BLOCK: MAIN SUB


The problem I think I see here is that SUB is in RED. The service manual says that red is NG (which I'm assuming means Not Good). Is this something That I should definitely have a technician look at?


Also, when I first brought up the convergence grid, there was a sever ewarping of the grid on the left side of the screen. Since they were in the area that is normally in the gray area. Since it didn't affect my daily 4:3 viewing, I never noticed anything. Once I started to fix geometry and converge the set, I found that a number of the settings that "looked right" were dramatically different from the factory defaults. As a test, I recorded all of the service menu values and then proceeded to reset all of the service menu settings to factory default values contained in the service manual. It looked like crap. The biggest problem I saw was when PIP was turned on. The red was extremely harsh in this mode, which appears to be related to the SUB sync issue mentioned above.


Also, I hooked up the Samsung TS160 STB and noticed that when set to output at 720P, I get no picture at all. I know this set doesn't do 720P natively but thought it was supposed to upconvert to 1080I. Should it be able to do this? Is this indicative of some mechanical problem?


I have managed to get the set to a very acceptable level of picture (much better than before I started) but I keep having this nagging feeling that something is wrong and it could be better. If anyone has a good deal of experience with the Toshibas in this series can give me a few pointers, I would greatly appreciate it as I really don't know where to go from here and I would rather not shell out the dollars for a service tech to come out and tell me nothing is wrong with the set.
 

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tracer1989,


I have a Toshiba 40H80 which is the same generation model as yours.


My set had the popping/resetting problem about once every few days as yours did when I bought it in December 2000. Only after 5 months of owning the set, it popped once and the screen never came back on.


Luckily (or unluckily; your take on it), I purchased the set from the Good Guys with an on-site extended warranty for 3 years. It took them 4 weeks to fix the set since the technician came out three times basically to figure out what was wrong with it. In the end, he basically gutted all the electronics from the inside and ordered all new parts from Toshiba to fix it. In the end, I found out the new guts had 3:2 inverse pulldown enabled but being out for 4 weeks without my HDTV killed me. But I digress.


#1. I use AVIA and Video Essentials along with my Toshiba SD-6200 to calibrate about once every 6 months. In the end, I tend to favor the settings I obtain with AVIA. IIRC, there is a red-push problem in the NTSC decoder with the Toshiba H80 series. However, it should not be that apparent.


#2. Be EXTREMELY careful when you're in the Designer/Service Menu. But it seems like you were able to improve the PQ on your set.


#3. I know of no Toshiba RPTV which supports 720p natively. It's either 480i, 480p or 1080i.


#4. It sounds like you've taken all the steps if you followed through the service guide. The next step is to hire an ISF engineer to look at your set. Make sure that when you're in Designer/Service Menu, some changes only affect the current display mode you're in. (e.g. Normal, TheaterWide, Full). If you change TheaterWide modes, that particular mode needs to be calibrated also.
 
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