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Discussion Starter #1
College kid here. I already have my nice system, and now I'm posting for a friend.

He dropped a little bit (emphasis on "little bit") of money and bought a pair of Bose 401's and a sherwood receiver from a local pawn shop. His receiver sucks and cuts out above certain volume settings.

I'm thinking that if he gets a sub it would take the load off of the receiver so it only has to power the speakers for the mids and highs and allow them to play louder.

So, we need a cheap and loud sub to hook up to his receiver. He will probably buy used (unless there is a super deal online somewhere). Audio quality does not matter whatsoever as this set up is only used to get drunk people dancing at parties.

PA speakers are just too expensive, so that's why he chose not to go that route.

The room is quite large; long and pretty narrow, opens into kitchen.

If you know of anything that would work in this application under $300 that would be ideal.

Bottom line: So does anyone know of some loud subs for cheap?

Thanks!
 

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Alternative is Cerwin Vega speakers, look for something in the 90+ in the efficiency/sensitivity rating.... coupled with a measly 20 watt amplifier power should get you an eviction notice.
 

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Audio quality does not matter whatsoever as this set up is only used to get drunk people dancing at parties.
Sorry, I don't have any recommendations for you, but I wanted to thank you for listing all of the pertinent requirements, particularly the above. :D

If DIY is an option, you might head over to DIY Speakers and Subs where you'll probably get lots of ideas. The bare box for the build in my sig + driver cost less than $100 and kicks pretty well, but would require additional $ for an amp (plate amps at PE express can be had for pretty cheap).

EDIT: If you can find a good deal on a PA-150 I understand they really put out the 50Hz and above stuff, probably better suited for your music (chest-thump).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Alternative is Cerwin Vega speakers, look for something in the 90+ in the efficiency/sensitivity rating.... coupled with a measly 20 watt amplifier power should get you an eviction notice.
I've thought about going the CV route. I'm just not sure if they would get louder than the 401's plus a sub. What do you think?

Sorry, I don't have any recommendations for you, but I wanted to thank you for listing all of the pertinent requirements, particularly the above. :D

If DIY is an option, you might head over to DIY Speakers and Subs where you'll probably get lots of ideas. The bare box for the build in my sig + driver cost less than $100 and kicks pretty well, but would require additional $ for an amp (plate amps at PE express can be had for pretty cheap).

EDIT: If you can find a good deal on a PA-150 I understand they really put out the 50Hz and above stuff, probably better suited for your music (chest-thump).
I don't really have access to all the necessary tools to make speaker boxes, since I'll be at school away from my dad's tools haha. Although it would be a fun summer project. You're DIY sub looks very nice.

That PA-150 also looks interesting, although it's a shame that it's not ported, as that would greatly increase it's output.
 

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I don't really have access to all the necessary tools to make speaker boxes, since I'll be at school away from my dad's tools haha. Although it would be a fun summer project.
Understood, just thought I would throw that out there.

sjv7883 said:
You're DIY sub looks very nice.
Thanks, we're really enjoying it.

sjv7883 said:
That PA-150 also looks interesting, although it's a shame that it's not ported, as that would greatly increase it's output.
Actually, it is rear ported. Here's a thread where someone preferred it over the SVS PB-2000 due to the chest slam: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...hought-svs-pb2000-premier-acoustic-150-a.html

EDIT: Actually, I'm not really sure what Dr. H ended up doing with his PA-150, he might have it for sale.
 

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College kid here. I already have my nice system, and now I'm posting for a friend.

I'm thinking that if he gets a sub it would take the load off of the receiver so it only has to power the speakers for the mids and highs and allow them to play louder.


Bottom line: So does anyone know of some loud subs for cheap?

Thanks!
Does his Sherwood receiver have bass mgmt?
 

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Understood, just thought I would throw that out there.


Thanks, we're really enjoying it.


Actually, it is rear ported. Here's a thread where someone preferred it over the SVS PB-2000 due to the chest slam: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...hought-svs-pb2000-premier-acoustic-150-a.html

EDIT: Actually, I'm not really sure what Dr. H ended up doing with his PA-150, he might have it for sale.
Since building the Marty Cubes; the PA-150's are going to be for sale. I was going to start at 500.00 and see where that goes.

Regards, Dr.H
 

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Couldnt tell ya. I just figured it did since it's an AVR. Don't nearly all AVRs have a high pass for the L&R speakers?

Yeah, you should probably check on that.;)
With no bass mgmt you won't be taking any load off
Of the speakers.

Alternative is to make sure the sub has speaker
Level inputs and use the crossovers on the sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, you should probably check on that.;)
With no bass mgmt you won't be taking any load off
Of the speakers.

Alternative is to make sure the sub has speaker
Level inputs and use the crossovers on the sub.

What's your opinion on this?
Option 1: Supplement current set up with subwoofer(s)
Option 2: Get some CVs or similar
 

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It's hard to get loud for cheap.

Cone: $97.5
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pa460-8-18-pro-woofer--295-036

Wood: $28.98
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...in-M11161249097000000A/202332600?N=5yc1vZbtn1

Have home depot cut it to these dimensions (they'll probably charge you ~$5):


$130 sub. Capable of 120db down to 40hz with a few hundred watts.


Tools+misc:

Buy some woodglue, and 1 cheap 24" woodclamp, small bag of 20 or so screws.

Drill $29.97 (Yes, I have used drills as a powered screwdriver before, it will work! It just doesn't have a torque limiter.)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-5-5-Amp-3-8-in-Variable-Speed-Drill-D43K/205216326?N=5yc1vZc27f
Router $59.97
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-8-5-Amp-1-5-HP-Fixed-Base-Corded-Router-in-Green-R163GK/205179539

Totally do-able for $300 including new tools even.

Don't need binding posts. Just drill a hole for the wire and fill the hole with silicone (or wood glue and sawdust, I've done it before it works. You just have to let it dry.)

It doesn't have to be sexy, it just has to boom for drunk people.
It's 8-ohms so your AVR will power it no-problem. It's rated for 1000watts with a 30hz HPF (which you can't afford, probably.)
Fullrange 1hz to 20khz it should be ok with 150watts. (Obviously a subwoofer amp would be WAY more ideal from a filtering and power perspective.)

I would recommend a 200hz LPF and a 30hz HPF if you can... then you can give it up to 1000watts burst-power.

I doubt you will find better for the money.
Just be careful, 120db is more-than loud enough for cops to show up; the party-people will be happy though.


Here is what one sounds like with a 500watt amp played fullrange. (It goes louder), but this is 107dbC @ 8ft.

You can hear it outside 100ft away, and my theater has 20,000lbs of professional soundproofing. Yeah... the cops will show up at the dorm with your thin walls. ;)
Not night-club loud with just 1 sub, but loud-enough...

For an extra $130 you could have 2 for another 6db.

Buy the tools at Costco and return them for a full refund, saves another $120. (Start the car... Start the car... ;) )
 

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You forgot to add the amplifier to power that 130.00 sub. Add another 150.00 for a Inuke 1000. So it would be more like 300.00 after tax $ shipping but before buying all the tools, paint and materials.

The cheapest route would be to buy a Dayton Sub1500 for 198.00 . I am guessing it will have output capabilities in the 115db range above 40hz.
 

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Option 1)
The inukes are outside his budget. You'd need speakon and XLR cables to make it work, and you'd have to buy the DSP version (nu1000DSP) to get the required HPF/LPF. That is another $209, plus tax.
$5 http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=115&cp_id=11509&cs_id=1150902&p_id=4776&seq=1&format=2
$5 https://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nl4fc-speakon-connector-4-pole-cable-mount--092-050
$199 http://www.parts-express.com/behringer-nu1000dsp-inuke-1000-watt-power-amplifier-with-dsp--248-6702


Option 2)
You could use this HPF: $19.90 (I've used them, they work.)
http://www.parts-express.com/harrison-labs-fmod-inline-crossover-pair-30-hz-high-pass-rca--266-248

If your AVR can't handle the juice, get this amp and set the LPF to 180hz: $59.60
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa70-70w-subwoofer-plate-amplifier--300-784

Still WAY underpowered, but it's only $80.
For the extra $128 the nu1000DSP would be MUCH better than the SA70. You'd have enough power to melt the Dayton PA460 on demand.

I doubt the Dayton Sub1500 has the efficiency and power-handling for a party, but it's only $198, so you get what you pay for...

I know for a fact that the PA460 will handle 400watts unclipped all day long, and at 99db per watt-meter, that is a lot of boom...
Can't speak for the Sub1500, it has more excursion so it will play deeper, but it will likely die under the hands of drunk people within 1 hour, it's only ~87db per watt-meter and 150watts.

When you are limited by power, sensitivity is key:



This thing says the PA-460 will likely be 17db louder when you consider the amplifier that is driving it.
 

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With 71watts, 93db vs 105db.

The box in that video was 19x19x15 (that's as small as I'd recommend), the smaller you go the less efficient it is. But if you are in a dorm, size could be important.
If you could port the box to 40hz, that would make it 6db louder near 40hz.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
***SNIP***
Thanks for all the information. It's been really helpful.

What do you think about...
- Getting 2 Dayton Sub15000s, OR
- Building 1 good DIY sub

Both would be about the same cost, no? I don't really need to dig into the really low Hz, just need to be loud in the 30-70Hz range.

I'd probably be looking at getting a Mini DSP either way, just so I can send a set of high passed RCAs to the Sherwood powering the L&R, and then send another set of RCAs to the sub(s).

As a side note to give you all a better understanding of the level of sound I'm looking for...
My dad has a pair of Klipsch Forte's powered by a Denon AVC3020. I'm looking to get about the same output as this set up. This setup is in a similar sized room, as the guy's house too (it's not a dorm).
 

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Thanks for all the information. It's been really helpful.

What do you think about...
- Getting 2 Dayton Sub15000s, OR
- Building 1 good DIY sub

Both would be about the same cost, no? I don't really need to dig into the really low Hz, just need to be loud in the 30-70Hz range.

I'd probably be looking at getting a Mini DSP either way, just so I can send a set of high passed RCAs to the Sherwood powering the L&R, and then send another set of RCAs to the sub(s).

As a side note to give you all a better understanding of the level of sound I'm looking for...
My dad has a pair of Klipsch Forte's powered by a Denon AVC3020. I'm looking to get about the same output as this set up. This setup is in a similar sized room, as the guy's house too (it's not a dorm).
Table Tuba would kick butt and would be the absolute best DIY for the budget and output, but you need access to tools and time to do it.
 

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Building 1 good DIY sub
White is 600watts @ 4ohms, Red is 580watts @ 4ohms.
Yellow is 600watts @ 4ohms, Green is 500watts @ 8ohms, Blue is 350watts @ 8ohms

So a miniDSP and a nu1000(non-dsp) should do it.

$174: http://stereointegrity.com/product/ht18-18-subwoofer/

Red is two PA-460's, so $195.
The red wins from 30hz up, but requires a HUGE ported box.




You can compare that to this list of known measured subs:
http://www.data-bass.com/systems

Now keep in mind these are outside scores, it will be slightly louder inside a room.
 

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You can jam red into 10cuft, the power requirement jumps to 750watts (the two are rated for 1000watts so... it's all good.)

You lose 3-4db below 50hz by doing that. Still looking pretty good though...
Red wins by miles if you can sacrifice the teens and twenties.

You could build two blues and wire them in parallel for 700watts @ 4ohms, you'd have better area-coverage and better room-mode avoidance, and you'd gain 6db.
If you corner load both subs you could get another 6db (if you are lucky.)

Just by having the subs in a room, it will gain 3-6db below 30hz. So there is that too...
 

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