[BroncoSport]

This is a cut and paste from a reply in another post, (because noone cared to respond)


Ok. Im a little confused about the staggered framing/ de-coupling technic.


I will have at least 1 if not 2 full height 9' concrete walls in my HT. One on the right (looking toward screen) and one in the rear of a planned rear equipment /dvd storage closet. Tell me if below is true... or correct if possible.....please!!!


1) On the concrete sides. Frame it as a single, 16 oc wall, 2x4, 5/8-GG-5/8 on the inside, r22 with visqueen. 1" air space between concrete and framing, but r22 probally touching concrete.



2) On the interior walls... staggered 2x4, 16 to 24" oc, not touching each other, outside anchored to the existing floor joist above, inside wall decoupled from everything currently existing in the house. 5/8-GG-5/8 on both sides with insulation in both cavities (with visqueen?)


3) to decouple the sill plates on the theater side framing, run 2 ea 1/2" beads of latex or silicone caulk, allow to cure and afix in place with "s" line of construction adhesive. Allow to dry and frame up from this.


4) ceiling framed as normal, decoupled from existing house, 2x6, 5/8-GG-5/8 on theater side, r22 or greater, visqueen?




Does this sound right or am I missing something here?


Thank you and sorry about the reposting of this. (Just trying to find some answers)

 

[Fatman513]

Sounds like it'll work, but I'm not sure what visqueen is.

 

[dwightrahl]

Overall, sounds correct - but a couple of points...


1-a) Many folks who double-drywall use two different thickness sheets of drywall. I'm told that it further helps reduce sound issues because the different thicknesses of drywall have different resonance characteristics.


1-b) I would try to avoid having insulation touch the concrete wall if at all possible. You don't want to block the airspace for circulation reasons (it can help to combat mold problems later on if you have some air circulation behind that wall). Also, how are you going to get an R22 batt in a 2x4 wall? You don't want to be compressing that stuff...


2) You mention staggered stud walls, but then talk about 2 separate walls, not touching each other. A staggared stud wall is a single wall with studs that are smaller in dimension than the top and bottom plates (e.g.: 2x4 wall studs with 2x6 top and bottom plates). The wall studs are staggared from one side of the wall to the other so that no wall stud has drywall attached to both sides.


I chose to build double walls with a 1" gap between them.


3) Sounds about right. If you are talking about double walls rather than staggared stud walls, you will need to affix the top of the inner wall plate with some sort of isolation clip if you are trying to achieve a room-in-a-room design. You can't just leave it loose...


4) Sounds right except maybe for the visqueen. If you have living space above the theater, you don't want to use a vapor barrier in the HT's ceiling.


About the visqueen (plastic vapor barrier for those unfamiliar with the term); you'll want to check with your local building inspector to see what the requirements are regarding below-grade vapor barriers (I've assumed that you are talking about finishing in a basement...). Those requirement vary from location to location...


Good luck,


Dwight

 

[BroncoSport]

Dwight,


Thanks for the reply.


I guess I am thinking about the double wall technic for the interior walls. Reason being, so I can anchor the exterior wall (in the double wall runs) to the existing framing above and be able to finish the adjacent room's ceiling (totally unfinished basement, right now).


Wouldn't the 4 walls of the theater (inside) and the new ceiling joists (attached to these walls) hold everything solid, without the need for any type of isolation clip or such?


Would you recommend sealing the basement floor and or walls with a dry lock type product prior to framing? (FYI the house/ basement is 2 1/2 years old)?


I will most likely use 2x4 on the double walls and 2x6 on the concrete side to allow for the r22.


On another note, I am concidering using an electrical radiant floor heating system I saw in Lowes the other day. This would keep the HVAC ducts out of the theater. My only concern is how I will get some sort of circulation within the room. Any thoughts on this??



Thanks


Scott

 

[armaraas]

I am not sure what recommendations may be, but I have just started our basement and I am dry locking the walls just to be safe. The house is less than a year old, and the only damp walls we've had can be attributed to the lack of gutters and the soil pulling away from the foundation as it settles. I figure just to be safe I'll dry lock and make sure 2 coats get on the areas that have been damp before. The dry lock isn't overly expensive, but is time consuming if you brush it on. For the floor I plan on putting in a sub floor with treated lumber, and there will be a vapor barrier underneath the lumber. The only dry lock I will probably do on the floor is over the cracks. Like I said, I'm not really going by recommendations, so I am not sure if this is a common approach or not.

 

[dwightrahl]

Hi Scott,


You'd still want to use isolation clips to keep the interior walls of the room-in-a-room in place. Over the course of enough time, vibration and gravity will take their toll and your walls are going to move if they are not anchored securely to something.


I used Dryloc on my basement walls. Two coats of that pancake batter! It works well for sealing out dampness; but, if you have any actively "weeping" areas, you'll need to address that problem properly because the dryloc isn't going to do the job.


For my basement floor, I put down (from the bottom up) a) 6-mil poly, b) 1x3 pressure-treated sleepers on 16" centers with white styrofoam insulation between them, and c) a layer of 3/4" pressure treated plywood on top of that. The sleepers (just 1x3's laid on the flat) are nailed into the concrete floor with a powder-actuated nail gun (Hilde or Remington, etc). The plywood is nailed on with galvanized roofing nails.


I did not use dryloc on the floor. Mainly because I didn't feel like painting the floor...


In my neck of the woods (NorthWest NJ), there are code regulations pertaining to fresh air circulation in below-grade finishing projects. If you don't tie into the house's main air ductwork, you have to provide an adequate supply of fresh air. The regulations may be different where you live, so you'd need to check with your local building inspector about that.


The electric radiant floor heat sounds like a neat idea; but make sure that you go into it with your eyes open. Electric resistance heating is generally the least expensive option to install, and the most expensive to operate. Also, if you plan on having carpeting on the floor, the carpet is going to act as an insulator, effectively stopping the heat from making it into your room.


Good luck,


Dwight

 

[BroncoSport]

OK if I dont use the electric radiant heat, I guess tieing into the HVAC will have to happen. How do you all keep the sound from traveling down the duct work?

 

[Toxarch]

Use flex duct with a couple of slow curves in the layout.