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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been lurking for awhile here but had never posted until now. I am building a modest HT in my basement and am stumped on how to use some of the space. The room is 12'6" wide and about 18' deep. I do not have a back wall so the room actually extends further but the HT space ends at about 18'. The space that I need help with is on one wall. There is a bump out that is 24" deep, 90" tall and 99" wide. A full size refrigerator is taking up 36" of the left side. I have the plumbing in place for a sink and want to place the HT components in this space as well. I would like to have it function as a bar also. I was thinking that the components would be in the lower left of the space but am stumped on how best to place them.

Any suggestions?


Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I forgot to mention, I am planning on having a small stage under the screen. It will be about 3-4' deep and about 6" tall. Also planning on having 2 rows of 3 for seating. I have a pair a Klipsch La Scala speakers that am going to use in the front but will need to purchase the remaining speakers.
 

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Do you have kids? I prefer to keep my components up high, where little fingers can't get to them as easily.


24" deep will work nicely for standard 24" kitchen cabinets. Go to Home Depot and get a brochure for their line of assemble-it-yourself cabinetry, and you'll get some ideas.


I'm thinking you should leave the refrigerator where it is, put in a couple of base cabinets to fill up the rest of the width, put a countertop on those, install a sink in one of the base cabinets, and put some cabinets up high above it all (fridge, sink, counter). Put your components in those cabinets.


And having them up high makes it easier to hit them with an infrared remote. Just make sure the upper cabinets are deep enough to have extra-deep components plus their wiring. Typical kitchen wall cabinets won't cut it.


Maybe you could have three upper cabinets... one to go over the fridge, one traditional (shallow) wall cabinet to go over the sink (put bar-related stuff in it - maybe with glass doors?), and a wall-mounted 24" deep cabinet to contain the components?


Just thoughts...

ND
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the response. I have 2 kids but they are 11 and 13 so that is not an issue. How should I terminate all of the cabling? Right now it all is just dropped in the corner. I can't decide how best to terminate it however. Should I put outlet boxes in the cabinets? In the wall behind the cabinets?

I'll swing by HD and check out the cabinet offerings. I was thinking that the upper cabinets would not be as deep but may rethink that.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhtRat /forum/post/0

...elided... Should I put outlet boxes in the cabinets? In the wall behind the cabinets?

Receptacles in cabinets, etc are against the electrical code here (Ontario, Can) - so check your local electrical code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mchristopher89 /forum/post/0


Receptacles in cabinets, etc are against the electrical code here (Ontario, Can) - so check your local electrical code.

I should have been clearer but I was referring to the outlet boxes for the speaker connections. I don't know if I should terminate the wires in boxes or just run them direct to the components.
 

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Fewer connections are desirable from a performance standpoint. But from a conventience perspective the terminated boxes allow a lot of flexibility.


No matter which way you go, make sure you use conduit for all your cabling. You never know when you need to change something or add something.


Bryan
 

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I attached a hole saw to my drill and created several 1.5" diameter holes in the top of the cabinet. I fed my speaker wires and projector cables through these holes and into the components. I have a Monster Cable A/V power strip sitting on top of the cabinet, plugged into an outlet near the ceiling, and I run the components' power cables up and out those holes and plug them into the power strip.


The holes also allow some heat to escape out of the cabinet.


ND
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ND23 /forum/post/0


I attached a hole saw to my drill and created several 1.5" diameter holes in the top of the cabinet. I fed my speaker wires and projector cables through these holes and into the components. I have a Monster Cable A/V power strip sitting on top of the cabinet, plugged into an outlet near the ceiling, and I run the components' power cables up and out those holes and plug them into the power strip.


The holes also allow some heat to escape out of the cabinet.


ND

The way the space is, I think that I can do that. In fact, I will have the joist cavity above to place the power outlets and then bring the speaker connections into the top of the cabinet.

Thanks for the replies.

-Randy
 

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Nice progress!!


BTW - you can imbed the photos using IMG tags. Makes is easier on us lazy folks that don't have the energy to pull up each photo one at a time.Just resize the photos in advance.



ex:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It has been awhile and plans have changed. I decided to move the HT to a dedicated room. The room is 9x12. I just finished the paint and hung the screen. I bought a package deal from The Projector Guys with an Epson Home Cinema 720 and a 92" screen. I still need to purchase the reciever and speakers as well as building the equipment cabinet which will be opposite the screen wall. I used Disney Cinema Star (flat) for the ceiling and screen wall with Disney Mickey's Shadow (eggshell) for the remaining walls. The carpet is on order and is a dark maroon color (Wild Berry). I'm thinking that the trim will be stained red mahogany but still undecided.

The dusty Bowflex is my temporary seating.



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