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Discussion Starter #1
So I have built my very first sub cabinet and am getting ready to order all the goodies that make it work. I am a bit confused as to what connectors I need. I am going to use a Inuke3000 DSP to power a Dayton Audio UM15-22 15" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per Coil.

I have zero experience with the connectors this amp uses and as I said this is my first build. I am hoping a kind a patient forum member can hold my hand through this process. Treat me like I am slow.lol
 

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I used these parts:
Right angle Neutrik Speakon Cable connector for the sub end of the cable:
http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nl4frx-speakon-spx-right-angle-cable-connector-4p--092-192
The connector I used for the actual Sub BOX is this:
http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nl4mpr-speakon-connector-4-pole-round-chassis-mount--092-054
That one is Out of stock, many folks use this instead:
http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nl4mp-speakon-connector-4-pole-panel-mount--092-052
The connector I used for the iNuke end of the cable is this:
http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nl4fx-speakon-spx-series-4-pole-cable-connector--092-190

One of each for EACH sub.

I use 4 pole on the cabinets in case I want to run a different configuration later, and the iNuke end needs a 4 Pole ( I think).
The Box/Panel mount connector do NOT come with screws or gaskets, you can buy the gaskets separate(as much as the connector!), but I used Duct seal as a seal/gasket instead, here:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_13591-1781-DS-110_0__?productId=4595233&Ntt=duct+seal+block\&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dduct%2Bseal%2Bblock%255C&facetInfo=
Edit: BTW, the Neutrik/Speakon connectors want you to use a special screwdriver to tighten down the wires inside the connector(not a phillips head), I just happened to have the PERFECT Size/depth Phillips head to do the job without issue, but most use the proper tool.
HTH

m
 
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I used an RCA cable to TS( 1/4" MONO) connector to go from my AVR to the iNuke 3000.
I have a regular Denon AVR, no Balanced connectors on this!

I DID try the RCA cable with XLR adapter at the iNuke end, but it had a slight hum due to the wiring inside the XLR adapter, using the Mono 1/4" takes care of that, and keeps it all unbalanced....some folks use a "Clean box"- not me, I saved my $.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I used an RCA cable to TS( 1/4" MONO) connector to go from my AVR to the iNuke 3000.
I have a regular Denon AVR, no Balanced connectors on this!

I DID try the RCA cable with XLR adapter at the iNuke end, but it had a slight hum due to the wiring inside the XLR adapter, using the Mono 1/4" takes care of that, and keeps it all unbalanced....some folks use a "Clean box"- not me, I saved my $.
Ok, just so I am clear, the speakon connectors on the back of the Inuke , go out to the sub.
And the RCA cable to TS( 1/4" MONO goes out to the AVR.

Thanks a lot for your help, really appreciate it, guess it would help if I had the amp, but I just want to order it all at the same time.
 

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Do you have a regular AVR like a Denon/Yamaha/Sony with an RCA out for the subwoofer?
If so, that's what you need.
The List above is exactly as I used from my Denon AVR (with RCA out for sub)- to the iNuke3000DSP- to the sub cabinet.
You'll have to either solder the inside connections of the panel mount ( wire from that panel connector to the actual subwoofer driver), or use crimped connectors- I wasn't sure if they could be crimped, or what size, so I soldered the wire onto the connections on the inside of the panel mount....someone else may chime in on the size of a crimp.
Does your subwoofer driver have spring clips for the connections? If not, you'll need to put crimps or solder those on as well.
I used 12AWG wire, some use 14....anything over #12 will be a problem getting into the speakon connection points inside the connectors themselves.
 
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BTW- WIRING for the speakons for a standard build(1 speaker)
Use the 1- and 1+ terminals on all the connections, there are also 2- and 2+, but you don't need those for a standard connection, and the iNuke requires the 1- 1+ connection for a standard hookup.
Bridging is different, don't concern yourself with that unless you are using a monster driver and are going to pound it with high wattage, if you are using a 4 ohm speaker you can just run it off 1 channel NP with standard hookup.
Wire ALL connectors using the 1+ and 1- pins to keep it simple.

BTW, what driver/sub box did you build?
 
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He's using a Dayton Ultimax 15". 800w RMS 1600w max. He could run bridged with the limiter (only changes the amp side Speakon to +1/+2 instead of +1/-1). If you decide to add an additional sub of similar specs you can rewire the amp side to +1/-1 on the current cable and make an identical for channel B and have 1100w to each side in dual mono or stereo operation.

OP- you didn't mention the alignment you are thinking, ported or sealed? If ported then running normal rather than bridged probably makes sense as 1100w, depending on specific cab metrics, is likely plenty of power. Sealed may benefit, particularly when EQ'ing, from the extra headroom afforded by bridging the iNuke.

via Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Do you have a regular AVR like a Denon/Yamaha/Sony with an RCA out for the subwoofer?
If so, that's what you need.
The List above is exactly as I used from my Denon AVR (with RCA out for sub)- to the iNuke3000DSP- to the sub cabinet.
You'll have to either solder the inside connections of the panel mount ( wire from that panel connector to the actual subwoofer driver), or use crimped connectors- I wasn't sure if they could be crimped, or what size, so I soldered the wire onto the connections on the inside of the panel mount....someone else may chime in on the size of a crimp.
Does your subwoofer driver have spring clips for the connections? If not, you'll need to put crimps or solder those on as well.
I used 12AWG wire, some use 14....anything over #12 will be a problem getting into the speakon connection points inside the connectors themselves.[/QUOT


I have a Marantz 6008. I was confused about the input, but I get it now, brain fart.lol

I planned on soldering, that I do know how to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
He's using a Dayton Ultimax 15". 800w RMS 1600w max. He could run bridged with the limiter (only changes the amp side Speakon to +1/+2 instead of +1/-1). If you decide to add an additional sub of similar specs you can rewire the amp side to +1/-1 on the current cable and make an identical for channel B and have 1100w to each side in dual mono or stereo operation.

OP- you didn't mention the alignment you are thinking, ported or sealed? If ported then running normal rather than bridged probably makes sense as 1100w, depending on specific cab metrics, is likely plenty of power. Sealed may benefit, particularly when EQ'ing, from the extra headroom afforded by bridging the iNuke.

via Tapatalk

I do in fact plan on building a second sub.

The sub is sealed, the internal dimensions are 18X20X20 made with 3/4 MDF. The baffel is 2 3/4in pieces laminated. I used 1in dowels for bracing and was thinking of adding 3 pounds of polyfill.


Which reminds me, is all polyfill the same? I have a bunch of old pillows I was going to take out to my cabin, but if that polyfill is the same or as good as what parts express sells, I will use the polyfill from the pillows.
 
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