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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was originally going to paint a screen directly on the wall. Unfortunately I had forgotten that the previous homeowner had hung a plasma on the wall. To pain on the wall I have a lot of plates to remove, followed by fixing the drywall and then painting. It all sounds more labor intensive than I had in mind. My new plan is to paint on a substrate, such as Sintra or WilsonArt.


First, how do I fid local sources for zip code 55330/55311? (Yes, this is a "fishing" question that I may regret a couple of replies in...
) I could go with Home Depot just 1.5 miles away for WilsonArt, but want to at least do a price comparison frst.


Second. The paint mix to use. Instead of giving what I had in mind based on reading through enough hours I could buy a high-end screen at my day job houly rate I will give the situation.


The projector will be used mainly for watching TV and playing games. Movie watching is also importat, but ambient light is going to be true more often than not. Because the Wii is a favorite the projector is going to be a short-throw ceiling mount projector. Because PC gaming is the other favorite it will be a 3D capable projector. (By now most of you probably know what projector, or what one of 2 almost identicle ones anyhow, I am getting.) The exact model is likely to be an Optima GT700. The GT720 has a little better contrast ratio, but not $150+ better I fear.


The room is in the basement and light control is effectively 100%. The viewing area is starting out as approximately 12' wide, 14' deep and 8' tall. Walls are painted a dark blue with just a touch of sheen, probably enamel but not gloss. The ceiling is white and I will not broach the topic of changing that for a few months. The carpet is kind of moderate, like a dark beige or so. The closest ceiling light to the screen is 7' away (so behind the projector) and only running one 60 watt as of now. (It holds two, but I'll likely leave out the second one.) The lights in the basement are all on dimmers. The windows (deep well, very little light gets in to begin with) are blacked out by heavy blinds and a curtain can easily be added.


The projector will be used in two positions. The "TV" position will likely be about 3' from the screen creating about a 60" picture. The "Movie & Gaming" position will be closer to 6' from the screen creating a picture about 120". These measurements are for 16:9, but the projector is 16:10 native. It may run in that resolution for the occasional spurt on the computer, but not necessarily. It has a lumen rating of 2300 and will likely run in low-lamp most of the time. (Exceptions likely made for 3D mode.)


Ambient light performance matters. Contrast enhancement also matters. These 3D capable DLPs from Optima run at contrast ratios of 2500-3000. (Again, not really worth the extra for us at this point.) I do not want t give up good black performance in the dark to maintain a decent picture in ambient light. Yes, I seem to not only want to have my cake, but to eat it as well. (Granted I should go on a diet...
)


Most of the time ambient light could be an issue will be when the projector is closer, in the "TV" mode. Gaming in the large mode with lights on is also likly, but in those cases the lights could be dimmed more than regular tv watching might call for.


I have decent to good DIY skills in general, but have never been very fond of painting. I generally do it because it needs to be done, and no other reason. Most of my DIY is in the form of mechanical stuff and I am a software developer / former systems & network administrator by trade.


I think that covers most of what is needed to start getting some good input. I would like to know what mixes are recommended. I am ok with getting a sprayer as we want to repaint the master bedroom next and it would be a pain to do by roller. That said, I do not yet have a sprayer and rolling is not a bad thing.
 

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You can source Sintra here:


Laird Plastics - Minneapolis

1957 GATEWAY BLVD

ARDEN HILLS, MN 55112

T: 800/873-8409


WA-Fashion Gray might be your best solution (no paint wise") and you could hang it directly onto the wall over the offending holes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan
You can source Sintra here:


Laird Plastics - Minneapolis

1957 GATEWAY BLVD

ARDEN HILLS, MN 55112

T: 800/873-8409


WA-Fashion Gray might be your best solution (no paint wise") and you could hang it directly onto the wall over the offending holes.
With the Wilson Art in a 5'x8' I imagine I should attatch it to some kind of backing material so I can create a French Cleat mount? It'll need to sit out about 1/8"-1/4" from the wall due to the existing flat screen capabilities of the space. Probably use a 4'x7'ish sheet of 1/4" MDF or tagboard even, spray glued on and used to mount cleats made out of 1"x4"s? This would also give me clearence to add a velvet wrapped trim border fairly easily. Oh, and a friend of mine put the idea of wrapping a rope light of some kind behind the screen to give the option of a soft glow out the top & sides which I am starting to really like the idea of.


Also, in the hours of reading I have done I have seen some people with hotspotting issues using the WA-FG. I do like the idea of trying it out before spending the time painting a screen as the project will no doubt take longer than quoted to the wife. Time savings are more important than money savings, to a point anyhow. If I had hotspots it appears there is an easy rollable solution, or is it a spray solution? Is the FG a good base for some of the screen paints that would fit these requirements, or would primer be recommended making the question pointless?


Is there something glaring in my plan for projector/screen based on the described set up that I am missing? I try to research everything as well as possible before committing to a course of action, and I need to act soon. The large number of variables and options has me in information overload and hesitant to commit/second guessing myself.


I apologize for typos in this and other posts by the way. My keyboard has been used by an 18 month old on occasion, and that has not done well for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, I just found out today that I can get sintra at cost due to a close friend being a distributor. (I didn't realize he did foamboard as well as vinyl until I asked him today.) With that in mind would it make more sense to go for the Sintra painted? It looks like not counting the price of the sprayer I can expect the [email protected] cost + paint to be much less than a WA-FG. I am going to try and get a quote for the 5x8 WA-FG tomorrow so I know for sure though.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CeridianMN /forum/post/19555388


Well, I just found out today that I can get sintra at cost due to a close friend being a distributor. (I didn't realize he did foamboard as well as vinyl until I asked him today.) With that in mind would it make more sense to go for the Sintra painted? It looks like not counting the price of the sprayer I can expect the [email protected] cost + paint to be much less than a WA-FG. I am going to try and get a quote for the 5x8 WA-FG tomorrow so I know for sure though.

The Sintra for sure! To give you "Rope Light" spacing and to allow hanging onto a wall, the simplest of Frames will do. The stuff is basically self-supporting in 1/4" & up thicknesses. NO WA sheet is such.


And Sintra is specifically intended to be painted or Silk screened upon. Directly. No priming.


What? Ya want some of 'dis? Get some , get some!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So painting it is then. He was thinking I should go for a 1/8" board. I believe you recommended 1/4" here and other places. Is it just because it's easier to mount? I'll glue some cleats to the back and possibly glue it into a velvet-wrapped trim frame as well, so is either of those a preferance?


The big question then is the painting then.


I see that Geelm has the currently recommended sprayer. It sounds as if it is enough easier than the Wagner CS-DD or the Ryobi Duet. Lowes has the Wagner CS on their site, is that the previous model that was preferred?


The paint mixes that appear to be best for me to choose from appear to be the MaxxMud Retro or S-I-L-V-E-R. Is there another preferred one for my described situation? I do plan to use the 3D capability of the GT700 if that matters. Also, is the preferred current mix of S-I-L-V-E-R still the white from HD and the single metallic from Michaels? I'm pretty sure, but have read so many threads spanning the last four years it is hard to tell for sure. (Of course, if MaxxMudd Retro is the preferred then I guess it doesn't much matter...) If they are close enough to not matter much I'll go with the easier S-I-L-V-E-R I suppose. (I might be willing to test some 3D enhancements to a mix as well, but that's a discussion whose details should be hashed out offline.)


Practicing my technique on a sheet of cardboard I am led to believe that the first two duster coats should be very sparse. The cardboard should still be the dominant visual, but it should also be easily noticeable that painting has started. The following 3 or 5 coats (depending on mix used) should be a little heavier. Enough to mostly hide the cardboard on the first one, but not enough to run. All the cardboard hidden by the second pass when wet, and the third when dry. It seems it is better to err on the side of too light and more coats than too heavy and runs/lines. Every pass should cover a little more than half of the previous row. (Doen't that leave the top & bottom rws as having less pint than the middle? Does that even matter?)


I think that covers my questions for now. I was definately hoping to get your opinions MM as in my readings over the ast few months I have decided that they are definately valid and well worth paing attention to. Hmm, and because that sentance didn't make it clear, thank you for our help.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CeridianMN /forum/post/19556175


So painting it is then. He was thinking I should go for a 1/8" board. I believe you recommended 1/4" here and other places. Is it just because it's easier to mount? I'll glue some cleats to the back and possibly glue it into a velvet-wrapped trim frame as well, so is either of those a preferance?


The big question then is the painting then.


I see that Geelm has the currently recommended sprayer. It sounds as if it is enough easier than the Wagner CS-DD or the Ryobi Duet. Lowes has the Wagner CS on their site, is that the previous model that was preferred?

If it doesn't say "Double Duty", yes, that's the original. If the Gleem "No Name" is priced the same or less, I'd get that one though.

Quote:
The paint mixes that appear to be best for me to choose from appear to be the MaxxMud Retro or S-I-L-V-E-R. Is there another preferred one for my described situation? I do plan to use the 3D capability of the GT700 if that matters. Also, is the preferred current mix of S-I-L-V-E-R still the white from HD and the single metallic from Michaels? I'm pretty sure, but have read so many threads spanning the last four years it is hard to tell for sure. (Of course, if MaxxMudd Retro is the preferred then I guess it doesn't much matter...) If they are close enough to not matter much I'll go with the easier S-I-L-V-E-R I suppose. (I might be willing to test some 3D enhancements to a mix as well, but that's a discussion whose details should be hashed out offline.)

S-I-L-V-E-R'S penchant toward enhancing detail to the extreme as well as having the highest gain would be my preferred suggestion for a "Active" 3D application. Neither RS-MaxxMudd or S-I-L-V-E-R are appropriate working choices for "Passive" 3D. For that, you need "real" Metallic" content. But that's entirely doable as well.


Quote:
Practicing my technique on a sheet of cardboard I am led to believe that the first two duster coats should be very sparse. The cardboard should still be the dominant visual, but it should also be easily noticeable that painting has started. The following 3 or 5 coats (depending on mix used) should be a little heavier.


Enough to mostly hide the cardboard on the first one, but not enough to run. All the cardboard hidden by the second pass when wet, and the third when dry.

Sounds almost OK for RS-MaxxMudd. Go a little easier on the 2nd - 3rd coats though.



But as far as S-I-L-V-E-R goes, that would be a big 'ol....
Fail!!!

Don't go there!


With S-I-L-V-E-R all coats are "Dusters" and all should be of the same consistency.


Quote:
It seems it is better to err on the side of too light and more coats than too heavy and runs/lines. Every pass should cover a little more than half of the previous row. (Doen't that leave the top & bottom rws as having less pint than the middle? Does that even matter?)

Actually, you always start at 60% of the Spray Pattern's height being "off the Screen, so the second pass does actually cover (overlap) the previous row area. Also, if you do the next coat starting at the Bottom, you also alternate the 60% overlap coverage, and by doing so create even more even coverage over several coats.

Quote:
I think that covers my questions for now. I was definitely hoping to get your opinions MM as in my readings over the past few months I have decided that they are definitely valid and well worth paying attention to. Hmm, and because that sentence didn't make it clear, thank you for your help.

Seemed pretty clear to me.
Mostly because your here, anxious to get started, but asking pretty much all the right questions beforehand. That bodes well for the future. So let's "Get back to it!"
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/19557777


S-I-L-V-E-R'S penchant toward enhancing detail to the extreme as well as having the highest gain would be my preferred suggestion for a "Active" 3D application. Neither RS-MaxxMudd or S-I-L-V-E-R are appropriate working choices for "Passive" 3D. For that, you need "real" Metallic" content. But that's entirely doable as well.




Seemed pretty clear to me.
Mostly because your here, anxious to get started, but asking pretty much all the right questions beforehand. That bodes well for the future. So let's "Get back to it!"

I am doing active 3D, not passive. That might be project for 3 years from now, but I digress.


I just finished re-reading the SILVER thread. I have two concerns.


The first is that SILVER is touted as a light-controlled room solution. I do need something that will deal with ambient light. The room will be used for TV viewing with lights on more often than movies with no lights. Gaming with the PC will be in the dark, but with the Wii lights generally wll be on.


The second concern is hospotting/glare. I believe there should be no issue with SILVER if done right. However, it will be my first attempt. Also, with the projector being a short throw it will be less than six feet from the screen. If I manage the two position setup it will be about 3 feet from the screen in "TV Mode." Using Sintra as the base I have pure white to start with. (Haven't had time to price compare WA-FG yet.)


Your original suggestion was the WA-FG until I found I could source Sintra so inexpensively. Also, I will have use for the precision spraying capabilities of the suggested Gleem sprayer after this project rending that decision as made no matter what.


Should these concerns steer me away from SILVER and twords the MaxxMudd Retro? How about a grey based paint mix such as Black Widow? (That one seems to be very quiet, as if it is no longer favored by many people so I'm leery of it.)


The projector should be here this week. The wiring should be done in the next two weeks. I should have the mounting position(s) and method(s) figured out inside of a week. I'll probably have my friend get the Sintra this week. I'll probably order the gleem this coming weekend. I live close to all the main paint suppliers in the vaious diy forums so should be able to get the paint and start spraying within a day of a final decision. Maybe it would be best to get it set with the bare sintra and get a picture or two?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CeridianMN /forum/post/19566774


The first is that SILVER is touted as a light-controlled room solution. I do need something that will deal with ambient light. The room will be used for TV viewing with lights on more often than movies with no lights. Gaming with the PC will be in the dark, but with the Wii lights generally wll be on.


The second concern is hospotting/glare. I believe there should be no issue with SILVER if done right. However, it will be my first attempt. Also, with the projector being a short throw it will be less than six feet from the screen. If I manage the two position setup it will be about 3 feet from the screen in "TV Mode." Using Sintra as the base I have pure white to start with. (Haven't had time to price compare WA-FG yet.)

Two things here.


1. S-I-L-V-E-R is correct...."SILVER" is not. Hit the Cap Key.



2. S-I-L-V-E-R is OK to use if the lighting is correctly situated...but in no manner will it be as effective as RS-MaxxMudd, which in turn is easily bested by Silver Fire 3.0. There exists the methods to give you virtually whatever level of Ambient Light performance you want or need ...without hot spotting.

Quote:
Your original suggestion was the WA-FG until I found I could source Sintra so inexpensively. Also, I will have use for the precision spraying capabilities of the suggested Gleem sprayer after this project rending that decision as made no matter what.

I'm sure you will. Wives always have things they want done.


Quote:
Should these concerns steer me away from SILVER and twords the MaxxMudd Retro? How about a grey based paint mix such as Black Widow? (That one seems to be very quiet, as if it is no longer favored by many people so I'm leery of it.)

In reality, BW is a limited application in that it is under 1.0 gain. But it's also a fairly simple mix to assemble, it does Roll on if rolling is done with care (spraying is better by far though...) and it has reasonably good ambient light performance. Your PJ's brightness and close throw helps mitigate the lower gain.


Even so, using a Mix with the same advantages but that has 1.2-1.2 gain offers up a lot more potential. To me that's a "no brain'er". But that's me.


Quote:
The projector should be here this week. The wiring should be done in the next two weeks. I should have the mounting position(s) and method(s) figured out inside of a week. I'll probably have my friend get the Sintra this week. I'll probably order the gleem this coming weekend. I live close to all the main paint suppliers in the vaious diy forums so should be able to get the paint and start spraying within a day of a final decision. Maybe it would be best to get it set with the bare sintra and get a picture or two?

There is some fun to doing that, but I'm betting you'll move ahead fast enough you'll simply want to "get'ter Dun".
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wow. I thought the S-I-L-V-E-R thread was long. The SF one is crazy. I have to admit, I didn't read the whole thing. I started about 1/3 of the way in near the beginning of 2009.


SF 3.0 seems like thebest plan for me. I even have a back-up plan as I intend to build a frame for the sintra that holds it in largly via friction and then the frame will be mounted to the wall. (Likely via cleats) If the SF doesn't seem right for the space I can define what seems off and use a different mix for the reverse side of the sintra.


The projector just got in, so now comes the fun part of figuring out where it should go. Being a short throw I have to place the projector precisely for the screen. Two position capability would be really slick, so I may have to devise a custom mount assembly based on hanging the unit from some kind of track which can be lowered for the "front" position to bring the picture to center screen. I have some ideas and it should be a good time to plan/build it. The local HD peeps will likely ae input into the process as well...


Wiring the room is another fun thingto look forward to. It is a half finished basement, so I can get to the area above the ceiling via the other room, but it's also through the main truss of the house. Hopefully a small friend of mine can get through to crawl around up there. On either side of the truss here is room to go from support truss to support truss, but the main one is thicker and has smaller openings as a result. I'm just a few inches to big around to pull it off!


Hopefully I have some neat pictures by Christmas of a completed space.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I ordered the Sintra in a 5x8 1/4" format. Less than $50 as my riend is doing it for cost! I want the rigidity of the 1/4" versus the 1/8" after taking a closer look at the 1/8. (I guess they actually go by the mil rating.) This is because I would love to not glue down the screen leaving the option to paint the back with a different formula and have a dual purpose screen. (Maybe passive 3d in a few years...)


I submitted my electrical permit today and can start wiring tonight. My monoprice order will go in tonight. I will be shopping for paints and miscellaneous stuff from HD over the next couple of days. I'll try to remember to take a picture of the painting area once it is set up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The Sintra is now in the basement. I haven't examined it (wife picked it up, and it barely made it in the van) closely but I did notice some scratches on one side, and the whole thing is pretty dirty.


I'm guessing I can clean it with a damp paper towel and then let it dry before starting to paint?


Also, the boards for the "underframe" are in. 2 1x6x10 and 2 1x6x6. I figure I'll make the frame such that about half the boards width is outside the sintra, and the other half inside for it to be rested on. Once it is cut and screwed back together I'll need to get trim of the appropriate thickness and velvet to cover it. If I get the bare trim right up to the sintra I figure once it's covered with velvet it'll grip the sintra in place via friction after it is forced in. I'll probably try to get the trim to be about twice the thickness of the sintra. Thoughts?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CeridianMN /forum/post/19612075


The Sintra is now in the basement. I haven't examined it (wife picked it up, and it barely made it in the van) closely but I did notice some scratches on one side, and the whole thing is pretty dirty.


I'm guessing I can clean it with a damp paper towel and then let it dry before starting to paint?

Yes...it wipes down quite easily. If those Scratches are just "Mar marks" and cannot be "felt" with a finger tip, your cool.

Quote:
Also, the boards for the "underframe" are in. 2 1x6x10 and 2 1x6x6. I figure I'll make the frame such that about half the boards width is outside the sintra, and the other half inside for it to be rested on. Once it is cut and screwed back together I'll need to get trim of the appropriate thickness and velvet to cover it. If I get the bare trim right up to the sintra I figure once it's covered with velvet it'll grip the sintra in place via friction after it is forced in. I'll probably try to get the trim to be about twice the thickness of the sintra. Thoughts?

Velvet is slippery, so use as much compression as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Status update, pics next time.


Paint:

DickBlicks has a local presence here, but they did not have the Napthal Crimson. So, that should be here by Thursdayish. Everything else is in my possesion.


Screen material:

The Sintra bends like nobodies business! It madea U-Turn to get down our steps to the basement and popped itself right back to straight. I have actual scratches on one side, So my idea of being able to paint both sides different formula's seems doomed. I guess I will instead be gluing it to the frame once built, unless MM thinks scratches can be covered by a few coats of paint, or has other ideas to salvage them.


Frame:

All the wood is in the basement. I hoped to get it all cut this weekend, but the trifecta of exteme cold, nasty headcold, and baby girl changeing her sleeping habits to daddy's detriment have delayed the party. Tomorrow I am takin the day off work and plan to have the screen hanging and possibly painted by the end of the day.


Screen Border:

I got nothing. I know what I want to do, but have no velvet or trim to do it with as of yet.



Tools/Support items:

Paint sprayer, mixer, gallon jar are all ready. I need to get measuring devices and I am set. I have at least one spare kids medicine syringe available. I need the bigger measuring items, as well as a container to mix the color components in. I have basically this heater: Optimus H-4500 14-Inch Oscillating Pedistal Digital Dish Heater with Remote for convincing the paint to allow a quicker time between coats. I need to verify I have the proper size wood screws to get the frame together, and decid how to mount it to the wall. I got to thinking, I need to be able to slightly adjust it when it gets hung. With some help I could probably get it marked pretty straight, but alittle tweakablity might be nice. Of cours, with the toddlers around it still needs to be sturdy too. A nail gun and manual stapler for doing the screen border will be borrowed from a friend of mine hopefully tomorrow, and returned when I am done with the project in a week or two.


(As a side on this one:

50 ml water to rinse the color pigments from the measuring utensils

20 ml - Liquitex 'Matt' Basics - Naphthol Crimson - (PR170)

8 ml - Liquitex 'Matt' Basics - Phthalocyanine Green - (PG7)

5 ml - Liquitex 'Matt' Basics - Phthalocyanine Blue

5 ml - Liquitex 'Matt' Basics - Cadmium Yellow Deep Hue (PY 83)

combines to make how much?)


Other stuff should be placed in a new thread on the multi-use home theater/general room type board. When I get everything done up and create one I'll update this one with a link to it.
 

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Im with ya brother, putting the frame into place and hopefully finishing tonight, going to have hung on the wall and I am actually waiting on the extra pearl and silver needed over the LL mudd mix now that I have gravitated towards silver fire. Someone went to both Michaels in my hometown and CLEANED THEM OUUUUUUTTTTTTT! 8-10 business days is bullcrap, i was hoping to have everything but the border done by sunday, and do the border then!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I took the day off yesterday and got the main backing of the frame built, along with various other tasks related to the proector mounting. Here are links to the frame as it currently is.



The frame is 100" x 64". This gives about 2" on both the inside and outside of the actual sintra screen. I will nail on a velvet wrapped trim border (about 3" probably) and will likely glue the sintra to the frame inside the trim.



The extra metal on the top right is due to that particular piece of wood having a hairline fracture along the length. It does not go all the way through, so it is a solid piece for now. I may get another couple of mending plates to add strength just in case though.

bracket Close up.[/URL]


Here you can see I decided on a store-bought french cleat solution. Once everything is up in place I'll likely wat to figure out exactly how far out from the wall the top is held and then add something alongthe bottom to flatten it out from the slight angle it will likely have.


As an added bonus, upon coming down to the basement and seeing the frame my wonderful wife's first statement? "I thought it was going to be bigger?" Nice! Maybe in a few years we can look at a re-sturctureing of the space and put in a bigger screen on a wall...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The screen is now glued to the frame. Liquid nails as it were. Unfortunately I didn't thinkto double-check the screens seated position after putting weight around the border and one side slid about 1/4" from the measuered "even" spot. I should be able to fix that in hanging it on the wall though.


Once I get the stupid projector mounted (the pains of a short throw DLP, I tell ya - this will be nice to have done!) and hanging just fine I will have some help getting the screens position on the wall set. Add the receiving end of the cleats and suddenly there is a white screen on the wall with a projector shooting at it! This is planned for tomorrow. I am going to try o get Wednesday off to paint the screen itself. I figure I can mount speakers and run wire while the paint dries and hopefully Wednesday night watch something, anything really on thenew projector/screen.


Any last minute tips before I start mixing paint and spraying Wednesday?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CeridianMN
Any last minute tips before I start mixing paint and spraying Wednesday?
Yes. You need to equalize the level of the leading edge of the Screen. You cannot have the edge of the Screen drop off to a point over 1/4" or the drop will create a Vortex...a swirling at the edge as you pass over it with the Spray Guns pressurized output. This will prevent paint from lying down along the edge leaving you with a more sparse coating along such edges.


Staple some Cardboard "wings" all around the Perimeter so you have a minimum of 6" of level "run-out" beyond the Top and Sides. (...more is better...) Don't ignore this advice. It's important, and besides the extra run-out allows you to use that area to overlap the Top / Bottom row edges, as well as drop down "off the Screen surface" to the next level Row before starting back across.


Anytime someone builds a Frame as stout as yours where 1x Lumber is used and there is a resulting 3/4" rise off the wall, you have to "Wing it" as directed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So this is happening today. I took another day off work and need to finish this to a workable room by Friday night, absolute latest.


I'm shifting from the medium to the small pics. I believe you can click through for the full D5000 goodness. (Not that good, I'm no photographer...)

staged to paint.[/URL]


I'm adding a fan with a makeshift duct pulling air away from the space to help with the fumes. It will be back by the heater, and not very strong.

components.[/URL]


There were still a couple streaks of blue/green, but I figured they would come out with the squirrel.

paint mix.[/URL]


It has more of a silvery/blue look then I expected, but that could also be the flourescent lighting. It is most definately a grey though.

duster.[/URL]

up of first duster.[/URL]


Not much to say here. I am going t do more light duster style coats. I plan to err on the side of extra ligt coats versus fewer heavy coats. I am working it today and hope to be done in 5 or 6 hours.


Any warning/comments/concerns/praises/whatever should be posted or/and PM'd immediately as I will be at least checking this thread every coat, if not adding a pic.
 
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