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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm really hoping you can help me with my subwoofer problem -- it was suggested that I start a thread here. In my home theater, the subwoofer is located in a custom-built enclosure in the side wall. It looks nice (has high WAF) but in my view is not an adequate sub. I cannot add an additional sub to the room. I attached a pic of the wall so you can see what I'm dealing with.

The existing sub is a Speakercraft Vital V10 with a 120W amp and 10" woofer. I attached an excerpt from the manufacturers' cutsheet so you could see more details about it. This is the cabinet for which the enclosure was built, and I've not been able to find an off-the-shelf sub with sufficiently similar dimensions such that it would fit correctly in the enclosure. The best such option is the SVS SB-1000, but it would leave a lot of empty room in the enclosure and cause WAF problems.

I am contemplating upgrading the driver and amp of the current sub -- basically replacing the guts to keep the enclosure and WAF intact. But I haven't built a sub since I was a teenager (25 years ago now!) and don't really know the first thing about making sure the amp and driver are a good fit for the enclosure -- from a tuning standpoint, not dimensional standpoint. Frankly, at this point in my life I don't have the time to devote to learning what I'm sure is a very complex science. I would rather keep the sub as-is than risk creating a monster, which is what would undoubtedly happen if I did this on my own!

With all of that being said, is it possible to simply drop in a new driver and affix a new amp to the current enclosure and have it work (and sound markedly better than the current gear)? If so, what driver and amp would you recommend?
 

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Is there more room on the other side of the wall? Perhaps you could build a larger sub and just stick the mouth of it through the existing hole. That said, multiple subs will outperform a single sub by smoothing out room response. Can't convince the spousal unit to let you add some? Perhaps as end tables?

I am unitless. Sure makes life easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is there more room on the other side of the wall? Perhaps you could build a larger sub and just stick the mouth of it through the existing hole. That said, multiple subs will outperform a single sub by smoothing out room response. Can't convince the spousal unit to let you add some? Perhaps as end tables?

I am unitless. Sure makes life easier.

There is more room on the other side of the wall, but I know my (lack of) carpentry skills well enough to know that I shouldn't try modifying the enclosure. My spousal unit is still adjusting to the 5 new Aperion speakers in the room in what had been an in-wall/in-ceiling 4.1 system when we bought the house -- now running 7.1, and we're about to wire in-ceiling for Atmos.:) So I'm not complaining about it!
 

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I think you posted this on another forum recently, and I asked how much room was behind that wall.
If you have a lot of space back there, a horn mouth at the opening would be pretty awesome.
Have someone else build it, you just have to get it behind the wall and get it situated just right.

You wont even see it, it'll look just like it does now, with ridiculous output.
 

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Figuring that the cabinet is made out of 3/4ish material you should have a volume of something close to 1.77 cubic feet. This isn't taking the amplifier and the actual subwoofer speaker into consideration.

I would personally consider this subwoofer if you don't mind cutting the hole bigger:
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss315ho-4-12-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-466

with this one as a direct fit option:
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-4-10-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-462

and for the amp, I'd throw this in the rack and block the amp cutout off with a piece of wood glued to the outside:
https://www.google.com/search?q=nu1000dsp&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

Now this is of coarse only if you decide to abide to the wifes laws of the house... :devil:
 
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