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Discussion Starter #1
Change all these parameters in the ISF menu and see what you think:


RY-PH-4,f&G to 02

R/B-GA4,F&G to 03

GY-PH-4,F&G to 02

G/B-GA4,F&G t0 04


APRTR-4,A,C,E to 0


VSM-PH4,A,C,E to 0

VSMGA 4,A,C,E to 0


COLORGO to 0


SRTGA to 0


G-STR-0 to 0


Be sure to write down all your original values so you can change back if you aren't satisfied, but I think you will be amazed.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
And after you have done the tweaks set your onscreen settings to :


Contrast 26

Brightness 50 or 51

Color 50

Center at midpoint

Sharpness 50
 

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Did you do all the other tweaks. manual, efocus, geometry and etc..? and i assumed that you turn off all advanced settings.

thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I turned off all the advanced settings (flesh tone,black level,SVM ,etc.).I was going to do the focus adjustments and geometry adjustments, but after changing to the above settings I wont need to.Everything looks so good and sharp there is no need to touch anything else.( I wont! It looks that good!) Everything using AVIA is dead on.I used to think that the sharpness control should always be off but 50 seems to be off on this set.
 

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I'll try it tonight and let you know tomorrow. By the way, how did you come up with these settings.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well they are posted all over AVS from Bill and various others , so I thought I would put them all in one location that is easier for all new Hitachi 20b owners to see. It was a real pain for me jumping from post to post to get the info.The color decoder settings I used in the GY-PH4,F,&G are 02 as opposed to 01.Like I tried to explain earlier,I wasn't happy with the picture when I first got the set, and thought I would need to do the focus tweaks and convergence which I did touch up alittle with manual convergence,but after I did all of the above that I listed, ,everything seemed to snap in place.I posted some different user settings in earlier posts that I thought were an improvement when I first got the set and was experimenting,but now I believe this is the total fix I was looking for. Also, note that I did not move all SVM parameters to "0".Only the ones I listed.
 

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It isn't necessary to set VSM parameters to 0 when you turn it off in the user menu. SVM is disabled (at least as far as the parameters are concerned).


For those that like SVM, I find my personal preference is setting Phase value to 07. This eliminates the ringing associated with SVM. It will increase the dark scan speed (adding a little more distortion), but it is better than the ghosting that comes with setting the phase values lower.


I also find setting APRTR to 00 adds too much grain to some of the Hitachis I have calibrated. I have to set it back it to the original value of 01 or reduce sharpness in those cases. So keep a lookout for it when you change the value.


Bill
 

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I have never seen a Hitachi at any store that looked even descent. I always attributed this to faulty or defective sets (hard to believe that every set I've seen is defective). If I get a chance though, I will try these settings in store. I would like to finally see a good looking Hitachi after hearing so many good things about them.
 

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I am going to track that and see how close i end up next week after my set gets calibrated. I have the 57swx and Saturday after this one is Dee-day for my puppy. I can hardly wait and have a very good one coming to do it.
 

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FYI


COLORGO to 01 instead of 0 really helped tame the raunchy reds problem on my set. It didn't completely cure the problem I've been having but one of the things that's always made it so annoying is that the reds always seemed brighter, or more intense than any other color. This setting fixed that so at least red objects don't jump out of the screen and slap you in the face.


It's definitely worth trying for anyone that has a similar problem.


By the way, what exactly does APRTR do?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bill mentioned above that there is no need to set all SVM settings to "0" by just turning it off in the user menu.Well, I did that and to my surprise, changing the settings in the ISF menu still had an effect.It was as if SVM was not totally disabled just from the user menu.
 

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Bill,

You're correct on APRTR being too grainy. I ended up setting back to the default. Also, the VSM settings to 0 was too blurry for me. The only thing i made changes to was the G/B to 04, which help on the blue.

Setting COLORGO to 01 instead of 0 also help tame my red.

By the way Bill, I did efocus and manual focus for my friend 57swx over the weekend and the pictures came out very clear. We also did a major touch up on the user convergence, it was way off after the focus tweaks. We ended up skipping all the other tweaks.

I need to go back to the other forum to see your latest tweaks update. Thank you for all your help.
 

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damitt,


APRTR is a horizontal aperture control. In simplified terms, it is another sharpness control which can induce ringing (overshoot and undershoot).


steviec,


That sounds odd. I haven't noticed that problem on any of the Hitachis I have played with, including mine. When I turn user menu SVM off, Gain or Phase parameters have no affect on the resolution patterns.


Bill
 

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I first adjust the contrast and brightness with Avia before going into the ISF menu, assuming there are no further adjusts being made in the ISF menu that have to do with contrast brightness.


Then I adjust the color to 50 and set the tint to center, sharpness stays at 28.



I then adjust the parameters listed above:


[Hue/Tint - for Red] RY-PH-4

[Hue/Tint - for Red] RY-PH-F

[Hue/Tint - for Red] RY-PH-G

[Sat/Color - for Red] R/B-GA4

[Sat/Color - for Red] R/B-GAF

[Sat/Color - for Red] R/B-GAG

[Hue/Tint - for Green] GY-PH-4

[Hue/Tint - for Green] GY-PH-F

[Hue/Tint - for Green] GY-PH-G

[Sat/Color - for Green] G/B-GA4

[Sat/Color - for Green] G/B-GAF

[Sat/Color - for Green] G/B-GAG


using the: RGBOUT0 to select the color I am adjusting. The not so trivial adjustment is done after I exit the ISF and readjust the color to about 33. I have noticed that If I leave the color setting at 50, all the colors will be exaggerated and un-natural looking. But If I go back to the ISF with color setting of 33, all the adjustment will be off.


Bottomline, I adjust the ISF with color setting at 50 and readjust to a lower value afterwards.


Could someone identify the pro's and con's of this procedure and try to improve it.


Thanks,

Leonard.
 

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There is nothing wrong with your procedure. Most poeple have to compensate for an inaccurate grayscale by adjusting color/tint away from the calibrated standard. You might think about paying someone to come out and calibrate your grayscale for you.


Bill
 

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Bill,


I think it would be more beneficial for me to buy the necessary equipment and learn how to calibrate the grayscale myself. So, what equipment would you recommend and what books/procedures?


Steviec,


What are your settings for your drives and cuts?


Thanks,

Leonard.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi Leonard,Here are my cuts and drives:

G-DRV-H =41

G-DRV-M =52

G-DRV-S =5B

R-DRV-S =3C

R-DRV-M =52

RDRV-S =5F

R-CUT-H =7D

R-CUT-M =7D

R-CUT-S =7D

G-CUT-H =7F

G-CUT-M =7F

G-CUT-S =7F

B-Cut-H =7F

B-Cut-M =7F

B-Cut-S =7F
 

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Bill,


Do you do calibrations on Hitachi sets in Denver, or can you recommend someone for a 57XWX?


Thanks in advance,

JP
 

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Yes, I do calibrations in Denver. I am not a traveler and do most of my calibrations in Denver Metro Area. I do have one in San Jose next week and one in South Carolina the following week. I am there for other reasons, but people wanted to know if I could stop by.


But, if you need a calibration, let me know. I am fairly cheap.


Bill
 
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