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Mark,


Did you also take a look at the Gamma for Natural 1 versus Natural 2? If you did which one do you consider more technically correct?




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John
My HT Picts
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Quote:
it will be good to do the same test after running the lamp 60 to 100 hours.
Great idea, Federico. I will do exactly that. It will be interesting to see how the red burn-off affects the data.

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One question: when do you think I will have one of this Colorfact on my hands?
Soon. An announcement of general availability should be coming this week.


Noah,

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What are the temperaures at the low and high IRE's
Good (hidden) suggestion, there. The range should be marked on the graph for gauging relative distances. I'll put it on the list http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/biggrin.gif .


The bottom is 0 degrees and the top is 13000 degrees, so 6500 is right in the middle. Although this appears atrocious at first glance, a lot of devices plot off the chart completely (just a solid line spiked at the 13000 mark).


Quote:
Did you also take a look at the Gamma for Natural 1 versus Natural 2?
Unfortunately, I didn't really try much. I only tried Natural 1, and only with the white section off, and only with all end-user controls at the default.


I just wanted to take a quick look at it. I will do a more extensive study soon.
 
milori,


Looking at your Temperature Histogram, I wonder if tweeking the white balance controls of the LT-150 would yield a flatter line. Given that your LT-150 is more or less the same as mine, would reducing the "Red Bright" and the "Blue Contrast" accomplish this? If so, by how by much? Would I also need to increase the "Red Contrast" to compensate for less overall red loss?



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-Tony
 
DISTO,


White balance adjustments will only correct the color at one point in the Grayscale. The 0 ire Black and 100 ire White points are used as anchor points for the gamma curves in the software and if you change these settings R,G,B contrast, brightness the Grayscale will be completely upset. You may improve one point at the expense of mistracking at several other points.


Federico,


The Halogen based lamps start out too Red and rapidly lose the Red content shifting to be too Blue after a short period of time. The lamp then stabilizes and remains fairly constant for the remainder of its lifespan. The color shift is supposed to be in the area of approximately 500 degrees Kelvin for the lamp in this projector which is considerably better than the UHP lamps used in older single chip projectors which had a color shift as great as 1800 degrees Kelvin!
 
Quote:
Originally posted by ghibliss:
DISTO,


The Halogen based lamps start out too Red and rapidly lose the Red content shifting to be too Blue after a short period of time. The lamp then stabilizes and remains fairly constant for the remainder of its lifespan. The color shift is supposed to be in the area of approximately 500 degrees Kelvin for the lamp in this projector which is considerably better than the UHP lamps used in older single chip projectors which had a color shift as great as 1800 degrees Kelvin!
How long does the lamp take to be stable?


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CKL
 
I have not taken measurements of the LT150 yet. UHP lamps from the LT100 stabilized between 50 and 100 hours of use. I would expect that the LT150 lamp would stabilize in a similar amount of time but will know better after testing one in the next few weeks.
 
Thank you for your reply. Can you measure the brightness of LT150 when the white segment is turned off and the gamma is set at NATRUAL 2.


THANKS


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CKL
 
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