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Nope. :/

I want to reiterate that I'm (purposely and admittedly insanely) hyper focusing on actors mouths and whether the dialog precisely matches their lip movements.

My daughters and I watched black panther last night and infinity war today. At different points in each movie, there's dialog that perfectly matches the actors mouths. Other times, it seems like it's slightly early or late (hard to tell).

I'm trying to ascertain if there really is an issue or it's just "normal" for films to contain this much "slop" or "play" in certain scenes. I realize some dialog is recorded later and overdubbed. Maybe that's what I'm seeing.

I realize what I'm doing is slightly silly. So I'm also trying to look for precise sound effects (someone tapping on something, or something else discrete) and see how those line up with what's on screen.

I'm not sure what made me start watching this so closely recently. But I did feel, with some recent movies we've watched, that generally the lip sync was off. That's why i started mucking with the denon audio delay setting.

The problem with the av sync patterns I have is they are just basic dts and most movies I watch are in atmos. So I wonder how much that could affect timing. I don't know. I'm just guessing. But I do feel like something's off (noticeable lip sync) and I would love to get it dialed in better or know for a fact that the offending scenes are "baked in" to the source material, and it's not my gear.


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I would try running sync tests as many as I could one of these
and start from here, if you notice this issue with movies only so it could be related to audio decoding issue at your Denon side, did you try to do a full reset for Denon and also upgrading to latest firmware?

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Yeah, I haven't been running audio through my lumagen lately since I've had too many audio drop outs (1 or 2 per film).
I have the same issue with my Zappiti. Casual audio dropouts, 1-2 times per movie! Changed HDMI cables to fiber, still it happens. Never at the same time stamp though.

Using the Oppo 203 and almost no dropouts, same cables... :mad:
 

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I would try running sync tests as many as I could one of these https://youtu.be/ucZl6vQ_8Uo and start from here, if you notice this issue with movies only so it could be related to audio decoding issue at your Denon side, did you try to do a full reset for Denon and also upgrading to latest firmware?

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If you use the youtube videos to test, make sure you have a youtube client that matches framerate (Nvidia Shield, AppleTV 4K), or download the video. The Spears and Munsell UHD disc also has a good audio sync test clip.
 

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Just wanted to comment that after putting 060120 on my Pro a couple of days ago that I have no longer suffer drop outs/snow on a certain test disc: Previously, every time a clip finished on my 2015 Atmos test disc (1080p) there would be a brief flash of 'snow' on the screen, sometimes the menu would fail to appear then I'd have to change inputs and back to regain the picture.

As it was only this disc it seemed to happen with so it was more of academic interest, but I recently changed all my HDMI cables for 6' Monoprice ones as I figured it might be a sign of a weak link. They weren't expensive, but didn't seem to make any difference until I ran this update. I don't know if there was anything specific in this update (I was previously at 041620), but it is a pleasant side effect.
 

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The lumagen switched to 480p output and 4:3 when I turned on the projector and receiver . Any help here? It's intermittently doing this.
This is likely an EDID issue between Radiance Pro and the projector (assuming not going from Pro to AVR to projector). While EDID signals are low speed compared to video, long cables, or active cables with poor EDID signal buffering, can cause this issue. We have even seen a case where HDCP worked, and EDID did not, even though these use the same signals on the HDMI cable.

You can contact support at lumagen.com and we can help diagnose if this is an EDID issue, or something else.
 

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I own the 4240 model. Is there any mechanism which would allow the unit to power on/off when the AVR powers on/off? Can the wired IR input somehow be utilized for that function?
 

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Some comments on lip-sync test patterns:

I think lip-sync patterns are a good idea. However, the lip-sync audio, and video, need to be in the format you will be watching.

The issue is 2-channel PCM takes a lot less processing than ATMOS. So, for some audio processors, lip-sync varies depending on the audio format. It is possible that a test pattern tuned for PCM, will be incorrect for True-HD or ATMOS. A good audio processor should keep its internal delay the same for all audio formats, in my opinion. I believe some do, like the Lumagen Demo Theater Trinnov Altitude 16. However, it is still a good idea to have a appropriate lip-sync patterns to confirm.

The video format can also make a difference. Since frame times can be 41.7 mS, 20 mS, or 16.7 mS, for 24, 50, and 60 Hertz, respectively, and video delays are often measured in number-of-frames, you should also check Lip-Sync for each input frame rate.

The Radiance Pro does not delay audio, but it does have a programmable "additional video delay" feature that can help you insure Lip-sync is optimized for all relevant cases. This is in the Input.Options.Lip-sync menu for recent releases and can be set differently for each input frame rate.

The first step is to see if your TV/projector has a Game-mode, or minimum-latency, mode. If so, enable it and check it to make sure there is no quality loss using this mode. We have seen Game-mode in at least one case degrade video quality, so it is good to check.

Consider if you should watch with Genlock on. With Genlock on the delay for each input frame rate remains the same. With Genlock off the delay through the Radiance Pro can vary by up to one source-frame-time. Having the video delay through the Radiance Pro for each input vertical rate be a constant will improve lip-sync consistency.

Genlock increases switching times, and if you have a projector that has issues locking on to a HDMI restart, the HDMI restart can cause a loss of image. So the first step is to enable "Normal Genlock" for 24 and 50/60, and switch between sources enough times you know the projector/TV can reliably lock on. If this shows that the image always returns after an output restart, and if you decide to use Genlock, what I recommend is as follows.

If you want to use Genlock, I recommend you set MEMA to have Genlock off, and MEMB to have Genlock on. Then normal viewing is with MEMA, and when you want to watch a movie (or other critical program), start the movie/content, press PAUSE, press MEMB, wait for the picture to return, then press PLAY. To go back to normal non-Genlock mode press MEMA.

I suggest setting lip-sync for 2 channel PCM with 60 Hertz source rate using the audio processor's audio delay. For this case you can have the Radiance Pro "additional video delay" set to 0. Then put in a 24 Hertz ATMOS movie (I don't know if there is an ATMOS Lip-sync test pattern, so chime in if you know of one), and check. I like to use piano as my test pattern if available in the appropriate format. The key press video to audio alignment can be set accurately.

You may (or may not) need to change the video delay for 24 Hertz.

The Radiance Pro also can use the HDMI lip-sync feature. In our limited testing it appeared that sources either did not use this feature, or got it wrong. So the default for the HDMI lip-sync feature is Off. In addition, few TVs/Projectors appeared to implement this feature. So we made this a manual setting in the Pro for what to report back to sources for Lip-sync when this feature is enabled. It has been a while since we added this feature, so more devices may be implementing the HDMI lip-sync feature. For now we plan to stay with the current functionality.
 

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I own the 4240 model. Is there any mechanism which would allow the unit to power on/off when the AVR powers on/off? Can the wired IR input somehow be utilized for that function?
With all that gear, are you not using any sort of control system / or at least a Harmony remote control? Either of those should be able to do it.
I don't think there is a way to do this by other means except horrible setups where the mains power is cut by a slave switched mains output that a lot of AVR units had. I am sure that is not recommended...
 

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With all that gear, are you not using any sort of control system / or at least a Harmony remote control? Either of those should be able to do it. I don't think there is a way to do this by other means except horrible setups where the mains power is cut by a slave switched mains output that a lot of AVR units had. I am sure that is not recommended...
Thanks, as always, for providing your response. I do have an older Harmony remote which has been properly programmed by me for all of my AV equipment. However, I've found that it doesn't work properly 100% of the time for the Lumagen, requiring me to grab the remote. I also use a (delay) slave switch from my Yamaha AVR trigger to power the external amplifiers on/off. There has never been any performance issues with the amps, even after 15+ years of operating in this fashion. I was concerned that having the Lumagen go through a power cycle (rather than entering standby) in combination with each time the AVR powers off could lead to issues. Perhaps @jrp can chime in on this topic (repeated complete Lumagen power cycle versus entering standby mode).
 

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I do have an older Harmony remote which has been properly programmed by me for all of my AV equipment. However, I've found that it doesn't work properly 100% of the time for the Lumagen, requiring me to grab the remote.
Is the Lumagen in direct line of sight of the IR? Some universal remotes also don't send a 100% identical encoding / frequency of the command, and maybe this Harmony is guilty of that. I use the Harmony Elite, with the Lumagen entry from their database, and one of the IR outputs from the Harmony Hub connects to a 10-way Xantech box I bought for $30 on ebay. This breaks out the IR in to individual emitters, or in the case of the Lumagen (and my Anthem MRX1220 and now Arcam AV40) direct to the IR in port. This has been 100% stable for the past four years since I added the Elite and Xantech. Since my equipment is in a tall rack in another room, one or two blasters (positioned at various points in the front of the rack) from the Hub weren't enough to reliably control all equipment in the rack.
 

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Likewise, my Harmony control of the Lumagen is totally robust. I use the wide angle emitters from Logitech in my cabinet in front of the sensor pretty much though.

I would personally not have anything that has programmable flash memory hooked up to a main switch that was frequently used on something like an AVR. Although most designers of such product are very diligent in their efforts to protect end users from themselves, I don't think it is a good practice to overly use such facilities.

I believe there are only limited circumstances when the flash is written to on these units, and they're typically under user intervention (FW updates or save config), but still, why risk it for a biscuit... :)
 

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Is the Lumagen in direct line of sight of the IR? Some universal remotes also don't send a 100% identical encoding / frequency of the command, and maybe this Harmony is guilty of that. I use the Harmony Elite, with the Lumagen entry from their database, and one of the IR outputs from the Harmony Hub connects to a 10-way Xantech box I bought for $30 on ebay. This breaks out the IR in to individual emitters, or in the case of the Lumagen (and my Anthem MRX1220 and now Arcam AV40) direct to the IR in port. This has been 100% stable for the past four years since I added the Elite and Xantech. Since my equipment is in a tall rack in another room, one or two blasters (positioned at various points in the front of the rack) from the Hub weren't enough to reliably control all equipment in the rack.
Thanks for that perspective. The IR receiver at which I'm pointing the Harmony is an extender from the main distribution box/hub. There is a dedicated blaster/emitter taped to the Lumagen's IR window. I get 100% compliance if I flash the Lumagen remote at the extender's IR receiver, but not always with the Harmony (even when pointing almost directly at the IR receiver). My Harmony is quite old, but I believe that it is properly configured with Harmony's Lumagen database codes. Is it possible that there is a different/specific Lumagen code that I should select for the Radiance Pro?
 

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... Perhaps @jrp can chime in on this topic (repeated complete Lumagen power cycle versus entering standby mode).
I do not see any issue with completely removing power from the Radiance Pro when not in use. Having equipment disconnected by a switch/relay *may* help protect the equipment from a power surge, especially if a dual-pole switch is used.

Some people remove wall power from the Radiance Pro and other gear to insure a "cold boot" each time the theater is turned on. Doing a cold boot means the chips are in a consistent initial state, which in some situations *may* make power on more reliable.
 

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I do not see any issue with completely removing power from the Radiance Pro when not in use. Having equipment disconnected by a switch/relay *may* help protect the equipment from a power surge, especially if a dual-pole switch is used. Some people remove wall power from the Radiance Pro and other gear to insure a "cold boot" each time the theater is turned on. Doing a cold boot means the chips are in a consistent initial state, which in some situations *may* make power on more reliable.
Thanks for that insight, Jim. The last thing that I would have wanted to do would be to shorten the life of my Lumagen or make it less stable, merely for my convenience. BTW, I wonder if you could share the reasoning behind the initial decision of NOT including a physical power/standby button on the face of the Radiance Pro, since there's currently no means of powering on/off the unit if the remote is lost or damaged.
 
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I do not see any issue with completely removing power from the Radiance Pro when not in use. Having equipment disconnected by a switch/relay *may* help protect the equipment from a power surge, especially if a dual-pole switch is used. Some people remove wall power from the Radiance Pro and other gear to insure a "cold boot" each time the theater is turned on. Doing a cold boot means the chips are in a consistent initial state, which in some situations *may* make power on more reliable.
Jim, I just want to be certain... if I use the trigger from the AVR to power off the Lumagen, it would not initially enter the standby state. You're stating that it's OK to completely remove power directly from the "ON" state?

Also, wouldn't it be true that when the AVR again provides power, the Lumagen will come on in the standby mode (red LED), rather than "on" (blue LED), similar to after powering down to do a firmware update? If that's the case, then it would defeat the whole concept of what I'm trying to achieve (not having to utilize the remote for the power sequence).
 

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Jim, I just want to be certain... if I use the trigger from the AVR to power off the Lumagen, it would not initially enter the standby state. You're stating that it's OK to completely remove power directly from the "ON" state?
If you have the optional triggers on the Radiance Pro, you need to know these are *outputs*. You cannot use them to turn on the Radiance Pro.

What I was talking about is using the control system, or trigger output on your AVR, to control a wall-power-relay. You program the Pro to turn on when power is applied (In the Other.On/Off menu). Then the relay is used to remove wall power when you want the Pro off, and to apply wall power when you want the Pro on.
 

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If you have the optional triggers on the Radiance Pro, you need to know these are *outputs*. You cannot use them to turn on the Radiance Pro.

What I was talking about is using the control system, or trigger output on your AVR, to control a wall-power-relay. You program the Pro to turn on when power is applied (In the Other.On/Off menu). Then the relay is used to remove wall power when you want the Pro off, and to apply wall power when you want the Pro on.
Thank you for that clarification & information. I hadn't been aware of that setting and will seek it out. My 4240 doesn't have triggers. I mentioned (in response to @bobof) that I use my AVR's trigger to enable a (delayed) power relay into which I plug my external amplifiers. I was planning to go that same route with the Lumagen if there wasn't any downside and the 4240 would power up AND on as well as shutting down without long term damage.
 

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It may be worthwhile to merge 2:35 and 2:40 AR using the Lumagen.
Can someone provide Kindergarten steps for this - need for every source.
 

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Is anyone using an Emotiva RMC-1 with the Radiance Pro? I am wondering if there is any direct user experience with this combination.

Thank you.

Mark
 
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