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If you want tiny sealed, misleading specs aside the Peerless seems to do very well in boxes that are a fraction of the size of most of the designs here.

If you want to stay sealed and have some strong dsp available, one of the larger pro-drivers like the LaVoce 21", the B&C models that are similar sound pretty incredible with appropriate filtering and boost. Still looking at a 6 cuft box or larger.
 

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It also has an 8” voice coil!


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It's 7.4" but they are going to upgrade it soon now that you suggested it. They are known to respond quickly to inquiries, comments, and concerns. They have many testing results/charts but they are too advanced for us to understand so they didn't release them yet.
 

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It's 7.4" but they are going to upgrade it soon now that you suggested it. They are known to respond quickly to inquiries, comments, and concerns. They have many testing results/charts but they are too advanced for us to understand so they didn't release them yet.

I read it as Klippel testing is not advanced enough to handle this driver!

in terms of the Klippel testing, I can't share too much information but the overall test system is not behaving as it should.
 

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It's 7.4" but they are going to upgrade it soon now that you suggested it. They are known to respond quickly to inquiries, comments, and concerns. They have many testing results/charts but they are too advanced for us to understand so they didn't release them yet.

Pretty soon we’ll have 15” voice coils for 15” woofers!


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I read it as Klippel testing is not advanced enough to handle this driver!
Joking aside, what kills me is that both the HST15 and this driver were sent in for 3rd party klippel testing and it was clearly shown to start losing linearity after 20mm yet Peerless continues to state there is little loss in motor power at 45.5mm. You would think they would change the wording even if they refuse to admit the advertising was false.
 

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Okay. I'm about 93.75% sure this is a horrible idea, but I just wanted to check with the DIY guys first. I have an ancient DIY sub I bought off a buddy 15+ years ago. Pretty sure it's the Dayton Audio Titanic (probably the original). The box is MDF (might even be double MDF, IIRC), and the exterior dimensions are 23" x 23" x 43"...so I'm thinking 10.5-11.5 cubic feet depending on how thick the walls are. It has two 4" flared ports on either side of the driver.



The only reason I'm thinking about swapping them out is because this is literally the only sub on Parts Express that has the same dimensions and distance between bolts. I called thinking that 15" subs were basically universal and I could swap into a more powerful driver readily, but that's apparently not the case (I'm clearly not a DIYer). Edge to edge I measured at exactly 15" (381mm), and bolt to bolt I calculated at 363mm, though I'm sure it's a real possibility it wouldn't go in cleanly anyway.


All that said, I'm guessing since the ported box I have is probably 2.2-2.5x the internal volume than what they recommend (133 liters...about 4.7 cubic feet), I'm best just keeping what I've got? I only looked into it because my amp gave out on it, so while I was going to replace the amp, I thought I might upgrade the driver. So....get the new amp and move along?
 

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After reading through some of this thread, I'm not entirely sure this driver would be an upgrade anyway (seems this Peerless driver might have many, many peers?). Ne'rmind. :)
 

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The only reason I'm thinking about swapping them out is because this is literally the only sub on Parts Express that has the same dimensions and distance between bolts.
For a different bolt pattern just clock the driver and drill new mounting holes.

If the hole is too small, enlarging it is straightforward with appropriate router bits.

For such a big box the Peerless is a waste of money.
 

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Okay. I'm about 93.75% sure this is a horrible idea, but I just wanted to check with the DIY guys first. I have an ancient DIY sub I bought off a buddy 15+ years ago. Pretty sure it's the Dayton Audio Titanic (probably the original). The box is MDF (might even be double MDF, IIRC), and the exterior dimensions are 23" x 23" x 43"...so I'm thinking 10.5-11.5 cubic feet depending on how thick the walls are. It has two 4" flared ports on either side of the driver.



The only reason I'm thinking about swapping them out is because this is literally the only sub on Parts Express that has the same dimensions and distance between bolts. I called thinking that 15" subs were basically universal and I could swap into a more powerful driver readily, but that's apparently not the case (I'm clearly not a DIYer). Edge to edge I measured at exactly 15" (381mm), and bolt to bolt I calculated at 363mm, though I'm sure it's a real possibility it wouldn't go in cleanly anyway.


All that said, I'm guessing since the ported box I have is probably 2.2-2.5x the internal volume than what they recommend (133 liters...about 4.7 cubic feet), I'm best just keeping what I've got? I only looked into it because my amp gave out on it, so while I was going to replace the amp, I thought I might upgrade the driver. So....get the new amp and move along?

If the box is that big might want to look at enlarging the cutout and putting a 18 in there.
 

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If you want tiny sealed, misleading specs aside the Peerless seems to do very well in boxes that are a fraction of the size of most of the designs here.

If you want to stay sealed and have some strong dsp available, one of the larger pro-drivers like the LaVoce 21", the B&C models that are similar sound pretty incredible with appropriate filtering and boost. Still looking at a 6 cuft box or larger.
Yeah sealed 100%. I have main 3-ways (10" woofs) that go down to 30Hz but i much prefer sound and feel of sealed subs.
I'll buy DSP. And Power. :)

The point is i want to stay sub 80L because otherwise i need to destroy another pair of my acoustic absorbers to fit them into corners, which i rather wouldn't.
i need sealed lows with more SPL than my JLAudio F112 is able to handle. :)


The HST15 is a better option than this for sealed.
hm, they seem to be hard to come by in europe.
 

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i guess I could technically stick a Dayton UM18-22 in it - still enough space.
it's spec'd F3 is actually 28Hz at 3cuft, which is better than Peerless. I guess i could easily DSP it to 20Hz?

It also costs a little less.
 

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The UM18 pre-made box and specs is 4cuft, not 3cuft (the 3cuft rec is for car audio). I also think the 28hz spec in that size box is.... shall we say, sporty. With DSP, shouldn't be a problem. I used about 1200 watts (via crown xls1502) in 4cuft and excursion was reasonable, drop that to 3cuft and IMO you better have some more juice... but don't melt her! Plenty of people melted thiers with a crown xls2502. Remember, UM18 is closer to a 6 ohm load than 4. In 4cuft I'd rather have the UM18, I'm not sure about 3cuft...
 

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The UM18 pre-made box and specs is 4cuft, not 3cuft (the 3cuft rec is for car audio). I also think the 28hz spec in that size box is.... shall we say, sporty. With DSP, shouldn't be a problem. I used about 1200 watts (via crown xls1502) in 4cuft and excursion was reasonable, drop that to 3cuft and IMO you better have some more juice... but don't melt her! Plenty of people melted thiers with a crown xls2502. Remember, UM18 is closer to a 6 ohm load than 4. In 4cuft I'd rather have the UM18, I'm not sure about 3cuft...
Thanks!
it's a wierd triangle shape box with hollow "legs", and i don't have the exact drawing right now, but from my hodge-podge calculations it should come in at around 105L (+maybe 10 extra liters from "legs") when finished, so 3.7-4 cu ft.

We're talking about a pair - one in each (top) corner.

The thing about peerless that got me thinking is that its optimized for tiny enclosure and you can sink a ton of power into it - technically making it easily respond down to 20Hz flat with DSP since it has enough headroom to handle it.

I don't need insane dB either, ideally i'd like them to match my mains (118dB at 1m) down to 20Hz. I rarely use them as loud anyway, i measured 108dB tops - rarely, and for shorter period of time...
118dB @20hz is unrealistic in a sealed small enclosure anyway

I'll likely crossover them at 50 or 85Hz (based on what i measured currently)
 

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so, after some more snooping and reading... I got them for the same price as the UM18-22 would cost me, so i went with STW-350F instead, two of them, because the boxes will end up 70-80L.

they should be here next week and the build should be done in two weeks. I think i'll be fine and it shouldl be an upgrade from my single JL Audio F112.

i'll likely get an UM18-22 for my girlfriends room as soon as I sell my ex JL Audio F112 she's currently using.
 

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so, after some more snooping and reading... I got them for the same price as the UM18-22 would cost me, so i went with STW-350F instead, two of them, because the boxes will end up 70-80L.

they should be here next week and the build should be done in two weeks. I think i'll be fine and it shouldl be an upgrade from my single JL Audio F112.

i'll likely get an UM18-22 for my girlfriends room as soon as I sell my ex JL Audio F112 she's currently using.
Surprised you actually bought one of these with all the info in this thread
 
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