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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, it is almost time for me to start my first DIY sub project!



I need a little help however. Here is my situation:


I bought a HTIB a while back, it was a Denon AVR-687 paired with 4x Boston Micro-110x, Micro-110c, and a PV350. Good system so far. It has performed well, but I want to try my hand at DIY, and the sub is slightly lacking as it is i think an 8" ported 50w that only goes down to 45Hz. The problem is that my speakers only go down to 150Hz, so I either need something to do x-150Hz, and get rid of the PV350 [optimal imho], or get something to do x-45Hz and keep the PV350[less than optimal me tinks]


Budget: Open, but cheap-ish...I dont really have a set limit, if throwing a little extra $$$ at this will make a big enough difference, I will do it, but I am slightly budget minded [probably around $500-ish including amp and materials, etc.]


Output: I am not looking for an SPL king. I live in a small apartment, my room is approx 12x12x8 [1200 cu. ft.] and my negihbors pretty much ALL have newborns... what I am looking for is accuracy, and ability to go pretty deep, no need for teens, it would be cool, but I really only need to hit mid-to-high twenties to be happy, if I could hit 25Hz, I would be fairly pleased, as there are scenes [especially noticeable watching Patriot Blu-Ray] where I can tell it is TRYING to reproduce bass, but it is out of my systems range..


Size: smaller = better, but if large is NEEDED, or very optimal for my situation, I can make it work...hell, I measured, and can fit 2 6'x24" sonosubs in my room if I really wanted...


I have been looking, and think that the Behringer A500 Studio Reference Amp looks nice [and is fanless] it can do up to 500w in bridged mono @ 8 Ohms...That is $200...then I was thinking maybe an Audiopulse EPD210 EPIC 10"...About another $200


And...damn already hit a snag...amp couldn't drive this...the sub says it is 2-ohms and the amp only does 8-ohm at 500w bridged...


Any sugestions? TYIA for all help offered!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
How are the Bash 500w plate amps? I was thinking I need to either get some cheaper suns to get to 8 ohms, or get a different amp...I would REALLY like it to be fanless w/e amp it is...and the auto-power option on the Bash seems nice...as well as the HP knob...


Maybe the Bash 500w plate amp with a Dayton TIT320C-4 12" Titanic Mk III...? That seems to be a pretty fun combo. then throw it into an enclosure...probably not sealed... ported, or maybe a small sono? lol...


Any preferences on subs and amps in this range? and if these are good, what would be a good enclosure size/type for this sub and amp to get good low frequencies?


I have tried using WinISD, but it lost me...It seems to really not have many drivers in the database at all...at least not current ones. and I know SketchUp well enough, but don't know what the specs I need are... :-/


Again, TYIA for any help offered!
 

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I'd switch out the Titanic for one of Dayton's Reference series. You mentioned that you live in an apartment and are looking for accuracy and the Dayton Ref series has super low distortion. The only issue with using the Reference series is that they aren't SPL monsters but since you aren't looking for that then you should be okay. In fact, you could even step down to the 300w BASH amp since you won't be pushing it too hard anyway. Should be able to get down to 20hz in a sealed box in room without issues. All that completed for under $400-500 easy.
 

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Bash 300 has a default subsonic filter at 18hz. Bash 500 has a default subsonic filter at 30 hz which can altered by changing 2 resistors. Just so you know.
 

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Are you going to be getting different surround sound speakers that can go a bit lower as well? Or are you looking for a sub to go from 20-150 hz?


I think the main reason why those types of smaller speaker packages come with a smaller sub is because the it can go up to the 150hz mark fairly easy. Just like the smaller Polk surround sound package (RM 6750?).


I hooked up the similar package as you have (but it was that Polk variety) to a woman's Denon. I think it recommended a crossover at 125 or so because the surrounds couldn't go lower. I hooked up a Polk 505 12" subwoofer to her system a few months later just for fun. It completely overpowered her surrounds and because of the needed crossover, the system as a whole actually sounded worse than the 8" sub that came with her package.


Yeh, it can be turned way down, but it still didn't sound right. More of a low rumble that just didn't match up at all.


My opinion, if your going to stick with those smaller type surrounds, you might want to stick with smaller subs that don't overpower the room. Maybe 2 sealed 10" subs? Or 1 ported 10"?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H /forum/post/15507039


Maybe 2 sealed 10" subs?

Heck, why not make it a dozen



Seriously though I think you're right, a couple of Jack's surplus 10's may be able to get up to that 150hz crossover a bit better than a single 12 and still get you down into the 20's. Can't argue with the price either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I most certainly do PLAN on updating the speakers, but want to do it right, and it would cost $$$, and right now, the thing bothering me most is the bass...and knowing that there is so much goodness below 45Hz that just isn't being played...



So, I COULD try keeping the current sub, and do a new one that can do 20-80 or w/e, and only use it up until 45? Somehow, right?


and I am fine with whatever solution you guys think is best, but want it to sound good, both in what I have now, and when I upgrade later, though, when I upgrade later, the sub will likely be lacking then, so I will make a new one, but it would be nice to not have to make them all at once, just to sound decent...also, I don't want it to be extra expensive...


I know it is not "normal" but was thinking, maybe if I do a box with a standard HT driver, and one of the "Pro Audio" drivers pertsexpress has...or a subwoofer, and woofer in one box? both those seem to go high enough to fix this problem, but don't know how this would get done...think THAT would work a little better?


Or maybe I should scrap the idea of a dedicated sub, and build new front stereo speakers like the magna cum laude's...with an integrated subwoofer?



Ideas? Preferences based on experience?
 
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