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I have a newbie question that I almost created a thread for, but it's probably so basic that it doesn't warrant one. I have a pair of Zaph ZD5s built years ago, and after a recent move the drivers have come loose from their mountings. The acoustical particleboard for half of the driver mount screws are stripped. :( I know there's probably an easy way to fix this, but the last thing I want to do is stick the wrong kind of epoxy or whatever in there, try and re-attach the drivers, and have the wood split... What's the best way to fix this problem?
 

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Rotate the speaker and install the screws offset into clean wood
 

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The acoustical particleboard for half of the driver mount screws are stripped. :(
Another option is toothpicks and wood glue. Coat several toothpicks in glue, wedge them into the hole, cut them flush. Then reinstall the speaker, being careful to not over tighten the screws. Wood glue won't hold on the screw so it can still be easily removed, but it will hold and repair the hole.
 

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I bought two 18" Dayton Ultimax drivers and was wondering if should power them via iNuke 6000dsp or iNuke 6000 + minidsp or buy the Dayton Audio 1200w DSP plate amp. I like the idea of having the sub all in one with only RCA coming out of my reciever but will the RCA signal deteriorate at roughly 13m/15m in length?
 

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Hey Guys,

I was also wondering if there is somewhere for introductions. I am new to diy home audio, but have built several car audio systems. I am very interested in home audio and am thinking about starting with some overnight sensation kits.
 

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WELCOME!

leave while you can,

OTOH read around, try some different searches, read stuff over at the DIY sound group home threads/ builds

ASK Questions on some of the forums threads

even Parts Express has a ton of info that may seem overwhelming,

but read with the intent of developing a better focus about the possibilities you and your budget and all that other stuff allows you to think of short term and longer term goals for evolving HT growth . . .

if you go with proven designs , success guaranteed,

some ask about how to put together a seemingly well thought out and maybe even actually synergistic-ally, superlative planned collection of parts, but lack the E.E. degree to put it together, wrt the crossovers, the box, etc.

many here have a tendancy to shy away from the "frankersprecher" appeals

unless you're one really charming mofo . (thanks to Pulp Fiction-you know the line)

now get to work
 
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Very good introduction, thanks all for the help getting into this hobby. Now time to upgrade the HT. :)
 

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^

budget, volume, neighbors, current info, expectations, rent, own, future expectatios . .???????????

etc.

leave while you can . .
 

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Weekend project: pair of Atmos Volt-8 boxes for TM in the family room, they will be under the beam.
I’ve used neo magnets for grille attach before, this is first time I wised up and drilled from backside, saves some front finishing like I’ve done on other speaker projects. Live and learn.

Tell me you’ve never had this experience before .. you think the wood filler / epoxy is sanded nice and flat, then on one corner ... ugh The magnet barely shows, but you can see it and can’t live with it like that ...



Drill on backside ... with drill press won’t go thru front .


Test depth of hole


I modified the flat face drill , ground the original guide tip 50% shorter and put angle back on it


Worked fine on first 6, 7th I hit slightly too hard with 1/4 punch pushing the neo magnet down to bottom and slightly split the mdf baffle.
I had the baffle fully supported on backside when hitting the neo magnet down, just gave it a little too much umph.
It will be covered with veneer so hide the mistake .
These were put 3/4” from both edge, in retrospect I’d put them at 1 1/4” from both edges for future builds.




The volt-8 will replace the 1996 bipoles hanging on that beam .





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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