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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have just posted a new web page detailing the construction of my Do-It-Yourself 16:9 tensioned cinema screen. It's 90 x 50, with a 4" black mask around it.


The web site can be found here: http://members.home.net/danhanson/Th...eenproject.htm


All comments welcome!
 

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Thank you very much for the information.

I am planning to build a screen soon. The pictures were very helpful.


You say, "In our case, we want the 'face' of the cloth behind the frame facing through it, and we want the staples on the back"

What is the advantage of this as compared to the regular "stretched over the face of the frame" approach.


I haven't seen either one of these screens in real life. Is it that a screen behind the frame gives a better look while watching the movie (and maybe when not watching a movie also)


Thanks,

Maybe
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The idea is that you want the black frame in front of the screen material, so that any light spill around the image is absorbed by the black frame. DLP projectors in particular have a pretty bad 'halo' of light around the DMD panel, so having a wide black border around your image will improve your contrast significantly.


Make sure you use a matte black cloth like felt, instead of a shiny black cloth like silk or polyester. You want the frame to 'disappear' during movie watching, and not throw reflections.


Does that clear things up?

 

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Dan, your new screen looks awesome! I have studied your web page and plan on building one very similar to yours. I'd love it if someone would do a detailed comparison between your screen and a Stewart Studiotek 130, often regarded as the best money can buy. If they perform even close to each other, the DIY screen has got to be the bargain of the century!


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On your web page you state that you used a "felt-like" material for the border. Do you happen to know the exact name for the material? A friend of mine has a bet with me that the material is not felt or felt-like at all.


Jon
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry, I don't. And your friend might be right. It's a thick matte black cloth, but 'felt-like' might not be the best way to describe it - I was stuck for words. I just bought it off of a roll at Fabricland. Didn't even know what it was made of.
 

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Darn. I hate being proven wrong. I guess you can't believe everything you read. I still like how your border turned out.


Jon
 

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How "heavy or thick was the material?


------------------

Jeff

Currently - Zenith 7" CRT, 80x60 1.3 gain screen


Soon to be - 107x60 1.3 gain...with whatever higher rez DLP gets its act together (finally)with Panamorph or B stock/etc 9" CRT
 

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NICE JOB! I had just come here looking for exactly that kind of info when I lucked across your post. That's the kind of thing that makes this forum so great!


Maybe I missed it, but what kind of projector are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My projector is an LT-150. The picture looks phenomenal on this screen, although I must admit that I haven't seen a lot of others.


The fabric isn't that thick, but it's dense. If I had to describe it, I'd say it was kind of like black nylon, except with a matte side that feels more like cotton. It looks pretty nice, but I think felt would be better. They didn't have felt at the store I went to, so I bought the next best thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm glad to hear that this page is useful!


Bob, I like your idea of using the spray adhesive for the masking material. I even have some of that. How long did it take to set up? Did you have to hold tension on the cloth for a long time, or could you just pull it tight, hold it for a few seconds, and move on?


As for masking, there are a numbe of alternatives. The one I'm toying with right now is to build a new screen with a 'slot' in the side of the framing. The way I'm considering doing that is to have the 1 x 4's as I do now, then a some 1/4" spacers, then another 1/2" thick frame behind that, which would have the cloth attached to it.


Then, I can use the slot as a guide to slide a mask up and down inside the frame. If you want to do it manually, the simplest would be to get a couple of cheap roller blinds and mount them above and below the frame, with the ends of the blinds inside the slots. They'll be under tension from the rollers, so then all you'd need to do is affix some stops at the right masking positions, and you've have a pretty slick manual masking system. If you can't find black roller blinds, you could probably use the regular kind and either replace the cloth or dye it black. Roller blinds are almost always light blocking, so the cloth is generally something like a medium-grade canvas. They are also cheap - I just bought two of them for $15 each at Home Depot, although these ones wouldn't be wide enough (I used them for their actual intended purpose, if you can believe it!)


To attach them at the right positions on the frame for each aspect ratio you could either use a pin through the frame, or you could use rare-earth magnets harvested from an old PC hard drive, or some other fastening system.


The pin-through-the-frame idea would be simple. Since the end holder of the blinds exends through the slot in the frame, all you'd have to do is drill holes right through the frame in the front at each position, and put a metal pin through it with a little button on the end to grip it with. Pull the pin out, lift the mask past it, and push the pin back in again.


Ultimately, I'd like to motorize it, and I have some ideas on how to do that, too. By using the rollers as your tension device, you avoid the need for counterweights and springs and such. Basically, all you'd need is a motor that can be turned on and off, a few pulleys, and some cables. I plan to control it with an ADI ocelot, which is a computer controller that has X-10, IR, and solenoid-actuated outputs. I'll put some rollover switches inside the frame in the slot that get actuated as the blinds go past, and some logic in the controller that says, "If the desired aspect ratio is 2:35:1, stop the motor after the 3rd limit switch is touched. If it's 1.78:1, stop it after the second limit switch is touched. If it's 1.33:1, run it backwards until the first limit switch is touched".


That way, I can put a page on a pronto graphically showing three screens, each at a different aspect ratio. Press the right screen, and everything happens automagically.


I'm working on the theater itself right now (pictures to come soon in the Theater Construction Forum), but when that's done, I'm going to re-build the screen with the electric masking system in place.
 

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Quote:
Bob, I like your idea of using the spray adhesive for the masking material. I even have some of that. How long did it take to set up? Did you have to hold tension on the cloth for a long time, or could you just pull it tight, hold it for a few seconds, and move on?
The Super 77 adhesive is very easy (but messy) to use. It takes about 15 minutes to tack up fully, but you can use it immediately after spraying it on the surface of the wood. Just spray the wood everywhere you want the material to adhere to (which is basically all 4 sides), and then lay your precut piece of material on the front edge. The material will stick right away, but you just pull it up and tighten it from the middle on out to the ends and reseat it in order to remove all the wrinkles. I was all thumbs with the first piece, but I learned quickly and could cover an entire side in about 5 minutes now.


Dan, you idea about the masking system sounds great, but where can you find roller blinds that are 96" wide? I think it was Deane Johnson who posted a DIY masking system in another thread that looks like it would work well, but it would require some sort of drapes above and below the screen to cover the pulleys. I am thinking more along the lines of presized, rigid panels that could be attached with velcro or some other fastener. It wouldn't be anywhere near as elegant, but I don't have the room for pulleys above and below my screen.


BTW, does anyone know where to buy blackout material in widths greater than 54"? My Draper screen was 100" X 56" (instead of 96" X 54"), and the only thing I miss about it is the extra couple of inches in width and height. You wouldn't think it would make much difference, but I really liked the slightly bigger image.




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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I don't know if you can get roller blinds that wide. If not, I think you could still use the mechanism, and replace the rod with a wider one. The tension apparatus is contained inside the end pieces, with a pretty plain rod in between. You also wouldn't be able to use the blind material, but I'd probably just get some black cloth to replace it with.


I have a roller blind in the house that's slightly bent, and I'm going to replace it soon. When I do, I'm going to tear the bent one apart and see how difficult it would be to turn it into a masking apparatus.


If you don't have room on the top and bottom of your screen for the rollers, how would you handle the rigid masking pieces? I guess if you have a 16:9 screen you just need one size for 2.35, and you could just take them right off the screen. But if you had multiple aspect ratios, would you make different panels for each one? If not, you'd still have it jutting above and below the screen, wouldn't you?


The roller blind system shouldn't take up much space, BTW. The rollers themselves would only take up a couple of inches, and you could mount them right on the screen frame at the top and bottom. If you keep it manual, you don't need any pulleys at all - just take apart a roller blind, widen it, replace the cloth with black, and bolt it to the top of the frame. Then make a nice little cover out of MDF painted black and cover it so it looks nice.


If we can come up with a self-contained DIY projection screen with integral masking system, that would just be incredibly cool, even if the masking is manual. To get the same functionality in a commercial screen would cost a lot of money. Couple of thousand, probably.
 

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Hi Dan,


I built a screeen this week following your plans and it came out great! I used poplar 1X3's and covered the frame with black velvet, using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive to attach the velvet. The blackout material was only 54" wide, but I was able to stretch it enough to make a 96" X 54" screen. Since my screen is free hanging, and the blackout material is totally opaque, I reinforced the frame with pieces of extra poplar I had hanging around, mounted diagonally on the back side of all 4 corners (of course this was done after the screen material was mounted). This helped greatly in keeping the frame totally flat and rigid. With all of the little extras I spent money on (like the 3M adhesive and black velvet), the screen still cost only about $75, and it looks a LOT better than my Draper M2500 did. Thanks to your great instructions and pictures on your web site, I am one happy camper!


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[This message has been edited by Bob Sorel (edited 09-13-2001).]
 

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Hi Dan


Do you have any light or contrast problems with 2.35 movies? I was thinking that it might be fairly easy to mask your screen for that aspect ratio using flaps made out of your black material with small dowels, to provide a straight edge, that could be fastened to the sides of the screen with a snap fastener or hook.
 

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Thanks for the clarification, Dan. Yes, I would have room for the roller blind idea as long as I kept it manual. Smyth22, did Home Depot tell you the maximum size of roller blinds that can be bought with no problems? And how much does one cost, let's say, for the 80" width you are contemplating?


This is a shaping up to look like a really great idea. With Dan's 2 layer frame design, the top and bottom front frame pieces could also be made of wider stock in order to hide the rollers, though it would require a little extra work cutting the pieces to mate with the sides correctly. I'll stop by Home Depot this weekend and find out just what is available for sizes and materials in roller blinds.


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I am looking at doing something similar but with a 60x80 screen. I went to Home Depot and asked about custom roller blinds and they told me that 80-90" was no problem. I got some samples and they have a flat black material that looks like it would absorb light quite well. I was planning to install brackets at the heights necessary for different aspect ratios and use a wooden dowel throught the bottom edge of the blind to ensure a straight edge. The dowel would extend beyond the edges of the blind so that it could rest in the brackets without holding the blind away from the screen.
 

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Sorry to resurrect such an old post, but I'm in the process of trying to figure out how much room to allow for DIY screen. Saw this post and was hoping Dan has a new site where the picture are located.


Being that @Home is no longer around.


Dan, Are your DIY instructions still on the web?
 
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