[mikecazzx]

Ok - I need to know based on everyones experience - where the three stack up. All have pluses and minuses for me. I would be using a CRT and most likely going 8'-10' wide (no judging me on width please).


Posting of your screen shots or links to them and projector types would help as well.



Here is the criteria:


Any screen I make will have a large black border and I want it to look professional.


Slight gain would be nice

If paint can give me a 1.3 or 1.5 gain without hotspots please let me know what paint and application.


Affordable is good too.


Pick from three ideas below.


1. Brand new drywall painted very smooth (or sprayed you tell me) with X paint (you name paint and primer). The only thing I can assume here is DO NOT USE GRAY OR SILVER FOR A CRT.


2. Blackout material like MOAKES sells on Ebay.

Limited in size height so thats an issue.


3. Professional screen material of similar gain.

Greater cost.



Is it foolish to buy 1 or 1.3 pro material when some say a well done wall is the same thing?

 

[GreggPenn]

I'm not that familiar with CRT, but I'm going to go out on a limb -- just to get the ball rolling in this thread for you.


I'm guessing that 8'-10' for a CRT is big, really big. And, normally there is a brightness range (measured in ft. Lamberts) that is recommended for cinema viewing. I believe the ideal range is 15-20 ft L. If you can figure out how to do this calculation for your PJ, start there.


Since your wanting to go big and you have determined that you want to stay away from silver or grey, I think there may be one best solution. And, I'm going to say I think it is the Da-lite High Power (2.8 gain). The least expensive way to buy this is in a pull-down Model B/C. (This is true -- even if you only want the material)! There is a current thread on this.


Blackout material is no better than a good, smooth white wall.


Buying a 1-1.3 gain material isn't necessary unless you want a grey, perforated, or rear projection material. None of these is true. (1.3 doesn't get you much over a white wall).


So, white wall or high-power is probably your best choice.

gp


P.S. Make sure you darken any walls, ceiling, etc.. not used for projection!

 

[mikecazzx]

Quote:

Originally posted by GreggPenn I'm not that familiar with CRT, but I'm going to go out on a limb -- just to get the ball rolling in this thread for you. I'm guessing that 8'-10' for a CRT is big, really big. And, normally there is a brightness range (measured in ft. Lamberts) that is recommended for cinema viewing. I believe the ideal range is 15-20 ft L. If you can figure out how to do this calculation for your PJ, start there. Since your wanting to go big and you have determined that you want to stay away from silver or grey, I think there may be one best solution. And, I'm going to say I think it is the Da-lite High Power (2.8 gain). The least expensive way to buy this is in a pull-down Model B/C. (This is true -- even if you only want the material)! There is a current thread on this. Blackout material is no better than a good, smooth white wall. Buying a 1-1.3 gain material isn't necessary unless you want a grey, perforated, or rear projection material. None of these is true. (1.3 doesn't get you much over a white wall). So, white wall or high-power is probably your best choice. gp P.S. Make sure you darken any walls, ceiling, etc.. not used for projection!

Good natured frustration:

Arrgh...I asked NOT to mention my screen size. Certainly everyone with a CRT uses an 8' minimum and as represented by the "10+ screens" posts a CRT can drive up to a 15 foot wide screen with no visible issues at NORMAL brightness settings! Therefore - overall a CRT's brightness its not as important as everyone (epsecially bulb users) think it is.


In addition yes I have a 100% dark room if I need it - and I am doing the black borders (as stated) and darker walls - flat black ceiling and gray carpeting and 1/2 black carpeted walls.


So - Looks like wall is $20 and high power is $700 so that answers that - where is that drywall...lets get working.


Oh yea - on that high power - I saw the thread - but no one talks money in this forum - how much is a high power material only - vs a high power pull down that I destroy?


Lets say a 10 wide or whatever they make that falls into that range. Exact $$$ where can I find this out - who is the best and cheapest vendor? Anyone?

 

[David777]

You can get a High Power pull down screen in a square 96" format. I don't think they come bigger but perhaps they do. It will run you well under $300. Contact Jason at [email protected] for exact pricing info.


Blackout cloth can be purchased in huge sizes. I don't think you'll be limited at all, but I don't have the link to get the extra wide blackout. Does anyone have it?

 

[mikecazzx]

Quote:

Originally posted by David777 You can get a High Power pull down screen in a square 96" format. I don't think they come bigger but perhaps they do. It will run you well under $300. Contact Jason at [email protected] for exact pricing info. Blackout cloth can be purchased in huge sizes. I don't think you'll be limited at all, but I don't have the link to get the extra wide blackout. Does anyone have it?

I was initially told blackout would only go 57" so not enough to do 10' screen....so if there is blackout with NO SEAM and better than 57" let me know ! Very cool.



so since blackout is not better than drywall - I was just going to make a 10' drywall screen - disadvatage would be weight - (cant use my regular wall due to kneewall lower level)



Not sure what 96" square would get me? Not 10' I suppose - but I will check in with J - thanks for that link.

 

[ghengis]

Mike,

Try this link. www.eztheater.com/products.htm


I plan on using this material for my screen. It comes in 110" with no seam. That is less than 10' but close.


Dave

 

[Kevin Korom]

You can buy a High Power on a Model C frame up to 12' wide; Model B is limited to 8'. A good screen material is going to look better than drywall IME; whether the extras cost is worth it is up to you.


You might want to try a white wall in the size you want first though, since you may find the image too dark at the size you're looking for. A 300 lumen PJ on a 10 foot, 1.0 gain screen is less than 6 ftL, way less than recommended. I believe Stewart recommends a minimum of 8 ftL (real measured numbers, not advertised). Most shoot for 2-3 times that, or more.

 

[mikecazzx]

Quote:

Originally posted by Kevin Korom You can buy a High Power on a Model C frame up to 12' wide; Model B is limited to 8'. A good screen material is going to look better than drywall IME; whether the extras cost is worth it is up to you. You might want to try a white wall in the size you want first though, since you may find the image too dark at the size you're looking for. A 300 lumen PJ on a 10 foot, 1.0 gain screen is less than 6 ftL, way less than recommended. I believe Stewart recommends a minimum of 8 ftL (real measured numbers, not advertised). Most shoot for 2-3 times that, or more.

Here we go again - so the guys with the 10' -15' screenshots are brightening thier images? (sarcasml)


I think I asked not to comment on a the publics opinion of a 10' screen? THis is a wasted topic with - my CRT will drive a 10' screen at NORMAL brightness.


From thier photos it appears fot HT use the CRT was way underrated as far as brightness and this myth continues.

 

[Kevin Korom]

Quote:

I think I asked not to comment on a the publics opinion of a 10' screen? THis is a wasted topic with - my CRT will drive a 10' screen at NORMAL brightness.

How many real lumens does your CRT put out? I'm not being sarcastic, I want to know.

 

[mikecazzx]

I am new to CRT - but its supposed to be something like 1000 to 1200 - one of the brightest ever made. NEC 110 XG.


I am not claiming to know the real formulas for actual lumens - I want you to go look at the thread called "10' screens" or something like that.


a 12 footer and 15 footer and then you can see for yourself acutal reflected or book lumens does not mean anything in real life, this was a surprise to the screens owners and they even found they could back thier brightness off to near default.


By the way = they are both using drywall with the most basic of finishes as far as I remember - not even an enhanced GAIN screen !

 

[Kevin Korom]

Interesting, didn't know there were any CRTs that threw out that much light...


I would still recommend a real screen material. IME, a matte white vinyl looks better than a white wall. The slightly translucent material (you can see the image on the backside) gives the image greater depth, or at least the illusion of it. That's my experience, anyway. Dazian has some fairly inexpensive material available in 54" and 86" wide, sold by the linear yard. It's called Matte Non-perf.

www.dazian.com

 

[mikecazzx]

Quote:

Originally posted by Kevin Korom Interesting, didn't know there were any CRTs that threw out that much light... I would still recommend a real screen material. IME, a matte white vinyl looks better than a white wall. The slightly translucent material (you can see the image on the backside) gives the image greater depth, or at least the illusion of it. That's my experience, anyway. Dazian has some fairly inexpensive material available in 54" and 86" wide, sold by the linear yard. It's called Matte Non-perf. www.dazian.com

I will check that out - looks very gray.


Also waiting for a quote for higher gain 1.5 High Power from Jason at AVS.

 

[scoob5555]

Mike-

I don't know why you want to discount silver as a "color" for your screen, but something like the SilverStar seems ready-made for CRT. I know you don't want to spend that kind of $$$$, but it's a perfectly good (great) silver solution for you.


I think something like MississippiMan's white over silver would work out well for you. Silver on the wall, then covered with thin coats of white (with pearlescent paint mixed with ceiling paint). Calibrate your pj to that screen and you'll probably be very happy with your new pj/screen combo. No size limitations when you're using only paint - and the total cost of materials is less than $50. Don't like it? Then go with a pro material. Can't hurt, yes?

 

[mikecazzx]

One step ahead of you Scoob... as a note cannot use wall - lower level has kneewall - besides I love the look of a screen hanging there


1. Start with blackout cloth (MOAKES at EBAY)


2. Add fake GOO - which I assume is Miss Mans ! Sprayed on.


3. High Power if affordable (supposedly is as a roll up model)

If quote from AVS on High Power is reasonable I go high power and add that to a DIY frame. This will become #1 option if quote is good...Jason where are ya?


4. Silverstar is obvious choice - but that screen costs more than my projector, my carpet, my paint, my chairs, my wiring the whole damn theatre !


As important as I know a screen can be I just cant do that one now.