[jmfangio1957]

Hi All.


Thanks in advance for any help with these questions.


OK, so, after exploring this amazing forum it's my impression that air tight remodel IC cans are recommended for placement in backer boxes. Yet the soundproofingcompany.com instructions for making backer boxes indicate a Halo H99RT which is non-ic. And their diagrams do indicate the placement of insulation in the boxes. Can anyone clarify this for me please?


Also, I have a need for both 6" and 4" cans and could use some guidance on the backer box sizes for each.


I have searched here and found this thread: (i tried to insert a link here to a thread in this forum but it would not let me post a url...if you search the forum for "backer box" it is the 1st thread listed) but I'm not sure if the answer offered is conclusive or even applicable since I am using remodel cans.


The instructions from the soundproofingcompany.com suggest to follow the lighting manufacturers recommendations to determine how large the boxes should be but I can find no such recommendations in the instructions provided with the Utilitech (Lowes) 6" IC remodel cans I just purchased. These cans seem to be the exact same size as the Halo 6" (H7RICT).


Thanks again.

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

a little bit on this from awhile back

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1295324


You are right to want to use IC rated, Personally I like IC AT rated. IC rated will have an integral heat sensitive kill switch to prevent you from harm.

 

[jmfangio1957]

Thank you BIG. Appreciate your time. The link to the old thread you offered is the one I referenced and tried to include in my post to indicate that I had read it already. I did search this forum for an answer to my question before posting it. And so it goes...

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

I've never seen a magic number for the internal size of a backer box, I would just eyeball it based on the pictures of ones that others have made.

 

[audiovideoholic]

Big, and or anyone else....


4" can
http://www.lowes.com/pd_289430-53058...7C0&facetInfo=


Do you think there is a need for backerbox when a seperate tray is made on the side of a soffit? Just curious because of light overflow through the can. My soffit plan allows 7" width plus 11" tall that will have rope light at the very top. This will leave aprox 4" of free space below the ceiling. Just a little worried about light spilling onto the ceiling and building a ton of boxes isnt in the plans.


I could make the orange line continous enstead of spaced every 24"




Sorry OP if this offended you but didnt think the question deserved its own thread.

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

between the gimbal you linked and the can itself I think all the light will be directed down. Worst case you can add some high temp rated metal tape to block a light leak that shows up.

 

[Tedd]

I used retrofit style Bazz 100 (PAR20) with an oversized double wall MDF/GG back box. Rattle can black BBQ paint. Interior dimensions of 9" wide x 20" long by 6" tall. I pulled the clear glass lense from the glass trim ring.


The back boxes weren't much work, but used up a lot of clamps and the six I built, took a week of 5-15 minutes every day. (I thought I had a decent clamp collection but these boxes changed that perspective.) My back boxes are in that thread that BigMouthinDC references. I rebuilt the factory metal back boxes to shrink their height fractionally, as my floor joists are only 7" tall.


These lights have seen long hours at full brightness. One heat tripped shut down once, one fixture, over the last three years. If I were to ever do more of these (maybe for a family/mediaroom), I would use cement backer board for the interior layer, and skip the metal box entirely. I did have what I felt were some bulb "life" issues, but better quality PAR20 bulbs seem to fixed that issue.


Audiovideoholic, will you be using RISC clips and undoing your isolation? (I actually considered your tray plan but ended up only using 2 lights per width since the room has four soffits and the center section is only 72" wide, and the glass trim ring beefs up the 4" to looking like a 6" can. The glass trim ring also protrudes below the drywall so it also beefs up the visual impact.)

 

[audiovideoholic]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd /forum/post/20807828


Audiovideoholic, will you be using RISC clips and undoing your isolation? (I actually considered your tray plan but ended up only using 2 lights per width since the room has four soffits and the center section is only 72" wide, and the glass trim ring beefs up the 4" to looking like a 6" can. The glass trim ring also protrudes below the drywall so it also beefs up the visual impact.)

No clips for me. The theater is seperate from the house and I have treated only slightly for sound proofing. No neighbors and the adjoinging room is osb + GG + DW. All the HVAC and wiring will be done inside the columns and soffit though, limiting the holes in the theater walls.