[Noman74656]

I received my flat packs from Donny (Chalugadp) back in March, and just finished my first calibration using his excellent instructions thread. These are the first speakers I have attempted to build, and it was an excellent learning experience. I cannot thank him and the rest of the DIY community enough for all the assistance.

Now, onto the pics!

 

[Noman74656]

I ordered two flat packs and received them very securely packed. I discovered I need to start working out or get a roommate because they were heavy!

The driver I decided to use for both is the Stereo Integrity 18" D4. I also bought an iNuke3000 DSP to power them.

One of the pics below compares the D4 driver to my current 12" Outlaw. Quite a difference!

 

[Noman74656]

The building process took a while in my case. I moved a bunch of tools into this small room in my basement since my garage is not heated enough to work in with the -15 degree F winter temps. Additional tools I purchased a couple different steel measuring squares, Craftsman brad nailer, and a couple larger clamps.

Also, I wish I would have done a a more detailed full dry fit of both cubes. That lead to a couple mistakes on my part trying to modify the MDF pieces Donny sent, and I ended up buying an extra piece of MDF to make replacement parts. Donny in his generosity, offed to send me replacements, but I have like two Home Depots (HD) less than 5 miles from me, so I just bought and cut the extra pieces I needed there. Luckily, I caught the HD guy who knows how to cut really well, so it was no big deal.

I had trouble with screws at first too because they would not bore into the MDF as easily as they did regular work. It would only go like halfway in, then the drill would stop. Frustrated, I said "screw you screws!" and just use the nail gun probably more than I should have. Later while assembling the second cube, I discovered my problem was the holes I pre-drilled were not wide enough, so the screws got stuck. I did go back and remedy this, but now one cube had a ton more nails than the other. You can only tell by looking at the side. Kinda funny now looking back

 

[Noman74656]

Since I was limited on space in the house, I built each cube one at a time. With school (night classes) and work I did not have a ton of time March through May. Additionally, it was more difficult than I thought it would be moving around the tiny room I was building in. Thankfully about halfway through May, school ended and the temperature outside got above freezing

I moved my build into the garage, and continued assembling the first cube while simultaneously starting to build the second one. I once again ran into a situation where one of the side pieces was not quite tall enough when I did a dry fit, but by now that piece had been leaning against a wall in my basement for several months, and it probably would have fit on the other cube had I not already attached the side pieces. No big deal since I plan to veneer someday, so Donny recommended some stripes to make it even. I'll eventually add those.

For the internal braces, I decided to use 2" x 2" (1.5" x 1.5" in reality) wood pieces I had laying around from another project instead of the 1" pieces (primarily because I cut all the supplied 1" pieces too short ).

Honestly, for me this was the hardest part of the build. The internal braces have to be wedge tight, and I discovered the large internal middle brace I installed was not perfectly straight, so I needed several different lengths that had to vary by 1-32nd of an inch or so. If you have been reading this thread thus far, you have probably ascertained that I am very much a beginner when it comes to properly measuring and cutting wood. Luckily, I had a lot of 2"x2" pieces available, so I eventually got them all in wedge tight. I would put a small amount of glue in the middle of the ends of each brace, and slide/small hammer them into place. Then, I also learned how to shoot the nail gun diagonally, so I put a few nails into each brace. Additionally, I put silicone caulking around each brace. It took much longer than I thought, but got them all securely into place.

Side Note: I messaged Donny a TON of times throughout this build with beginner questions on how to build these, and he aways responded quickly and with answers that helped get me over roadblocks I ran into (or even ones I caused myself). I would not have had the confidence to even attempt these builds if it were not for his flat packs, and support.

 

[Noman74656]

I used the 2" egg-crate style foam on all the surfaces inside each cube. Somehow, I managed to not order enough, and did not end up having enough to do the top side of each cube, and part of the bottom on one of them. I just used a 3M spray adhesive to attached each piece if the internal bracing was not completely holding it down.

Since I had the double baffle cut to allow for a flush mount, it was recommended to me that I use some of the 1" pieces I messed up on for bracing earlier, and glue/nail them behind the part of the baffle the screw would go into to give said screws more wood to bite into. This was a brilliant idea, and the driver now feels held very securely. I used 2" everbite screw from HD since I did not feel like there was enough surface for things like hurricane nuts.

 

[Noman74656]

This was how I wired each driver:

Wiring this way gives about 1100 Watts for each D4 using the iNuke3000DSP

I used some 10 gauge stranded wire, which in retrospect was probably not necessary, and kind of a terd to soldier to the small connectors on back of the speakon terminal, but it ended up working fine. The wire was super stiff as well, so I had to make sure to line up the hold I drilled in the port back with the back of the terminal.

I also used the Parts Express gasket, as well as left on the rubber along the outside diameter of the D4's.

Then. Finally. Dropped. The. Drivers.

The rubber of the D4 edges I mentioned and the gasket create one heck of an air seal. I forgot to mention, before I laid down the gasket, I pre-drilled holes for the drivers to mount them. I marked on the outside of the baffle where the holes were, and once I laid the gasket down, I did not have issues drilling the screws. I did make sure to set the drill to like a 2 or 3 torque setting so I didn't strip the holes.

 

[Noman74656]

Now, the subs are FINALLY in place for the most part I still have the outlaw sitting behind one of them in the back corner, but hopefully I find a buyer soon so I can remove it.

The first movie I watched was Twister on DVD with some friends. I had not adjusted the EQ, or even re-run Audyssey, but I did change the output on my Integra DHC 80.3 to send output to both subs outs, and I adjusted the volume knobs of the iNuke to taste using some music. So we started the movie and...

...IT WAS SO FREAKING COOL! I REALLY LOOKED BEHIND ME TO MAKE SURE AN ACTUAL TORNADO WAS NOT REMOVING THE UPPLER LEVEL OF MY HOUSE!!

I wish I had a hidden camera so I had a pic of the look on people's faces!

I finally took some REW measurements. Donny's into to getting started was excellent (http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1524422-basic-rew-inuke.html), and I was happy to see REW was updated somewhat recently to account for the Java work arounds, so it works great now on my Macbook Pro. I am using the UMIK-1 mic. The first REW measurement pic is before any EQ, and the second picture is after the REW recommended EQ filters are added to the iNuke. I was really annoyed the iNuke editor software does not have a Mac version yet, but it is really slick and easy to use for implementing the filters.

After taking the post EQ measurements, I was very impressed at how the EQ filters were able to reduce the peak from about 25 to 40hz. It was definitely noticeable in the sound of the room as well. Not as boomy as before. Room gain is definitely real people. I re-ran Audyssey, so the speakers (9 Mirage Omnipolar) and subs should be jiving better now. I haven't taken anymore REW measurements since, or watched a moving for that matter, but I am looking forward to it!

 

[chalugadp]

Great posts ! Very informative and helpful to others. Yours was my second one sent so some kinks needed to be worked out in measurements. I'm glad you were able to get it working well and now you join the world of deep,clean,powerful bass. Before long you will Be making all new mains,center,and surrounds.

 

[Noman74656]

Thanks Donny! the rest of my speakers in the theater are definitely up next I also want to build some bass traps / bass absorbers, and some other room treatments. I did build a skyline diffuser at the end of last summer, so I might do a few more of those to.

The DIY route is addictive indeed!

 

[lhard77]

Hey Noman! Great build thread. It appears we have the same outlaw sub.. How big of a difference did you notice going from the outlaw to the SI 18's in marty cubes??

I am still on the fence about building them, even though I have read thousands of "marty" posts. Haha

I'm excited to hear your opinion since we were using the same original sub.....

 

[LTD02]

awesome!

 

[Noman74656]

Thanks!

 

[Noman74656]

Hey Noman! Great build thread. It appears we have the same outlaw sub.. How big of a difference did you notice going from the outlaw to the SI 18's in marty cubes??

I am still on the fence about building them, even though I have read thousands of "marty" posts. Haha

I'm excited to hear your opinion since we were using the same original sub.....

Thanks! So far, I have actually not used the two Marty's separately to compare one vs. the outlaw, but together they give a much more full sound. Effortless. In short, BIG DIFFERENCE! I never measured the Outlaw using REW, but I like the sound of the Marty's much more. I have no regrets.

 

[Noman74656]

I just finished building two 2' by 4' bass traps using the Bass-Buster material (http://www.asistorefront.com/p-223-bass-buster-low-frequency-sound-absorber.aspx) . I placed them in two of the back corners in the room right on top of the subs for now. I was honestly a bit shocked at the amount of different they appear to make! The bass seems much more tight and controlled. I'll try to take some measurements soon. I have three more I will try to build today.

 

[Noman74656]

Now that I have had them going for a while, I notice what sounds like "chuffing" when it gets to the lower frequencies. Could this be because I reduced the internal volume of the cubes by using the 2" thick egg-crate foam and 1.5" x 1.5" bracing? Or do I just need to turn in down? I typically use them below reference level.

 

[chalugadp]

Now that I have had them going for a while, I notice what sounds like "chuffing" when it gets to the lower frequencies. Could this be because I reduced the internal volume of the cubes by using the 2" thick egg-crate foam and 1.5" x 1.5" bracing? Or do I just need to turn in down? I typically use them below reference level.

I ran my cubes to reference with same foam and didn't have any chuffing. My micro-cube doesn't chuff either. What hz does it start having port noise ?

 

[Bassment]

you have a high pass set on them right? They could "chuff" if they excursion is being pushed, or from a large amount of air going through the port.

 

[Noman74656]

I ran my cubes to reference with same foam and didn't have any chuffing. My micro-cube doesn't chuff either. What hz does it start having port noise ?

I won't get a chance to verify until tomorrow, but I think it's somewhere between 20 and 30hz.

you have a high pass set on them right? They could "chuff" if they excursion is being pushed, or from a large amount of air going through the port.

I do have the high pass filter in and set for 20hz, but I will verify that as well. Is chuffing necessarily bad?

 

[Bassment]

Chuffing's not that bad, it's just turbulence of air in the port. Chuffing can be minimized by tapering the port or by using a larger diameter port. It only happens at loud volumes and in certain scenes right? My ported does that too between about 15 and 25 hz, as it's moving the most air at those frequencies, but it can't play them super loud, and we can't hear lower bass as well as mid bass or any frequency higher.

I generally can't even hear it above the speakers / bass though, unless it's a really bass heavy scene with not much speaker content.

 

[Noman74656]

I ran my cubes to reference with same foam and didn't have any chuffing. My micro-cube doesn't chuff either. What hz does it start having port noise ?

I finally got a chance to investigate, and the chuffing starts at 40hz.