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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been inspired by all the amazing builds in the forum so I finally decided to take the plunge and build my first sub. I have done some wood working in college and feel confident in a build. My only problem is the "technical aspect" of the sub. I am a little unsure about what exact size I need. I have been reading up on some subs and I keep coming back the the TC Sounds Axis 12Q1.

I would really like to build a simple sealed enclosure. I would like to keep it no larger than 30"-ish cube. I am afraid to just guess on a size and build something. Is it really that precise? Thanks in advance!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Honestly I'm not really sure how low I want to go prob around 20-15hz. I'm not going for anything to extreme. This is for movies in my livingroom/home theater. The room is around 15'x25' with 15' ceilings. I dont really have a budget right now. I am probably going to buy the sub and material then worry about the amp later when I replenish the funds lol. Sorry about being vague with it. I appreciate all the input.
 

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If you do what EV is referring to, you can get the parameters from PE's site for the driver you are looking at. Once you get some modeling done you can also place the graphs here and ask about them.


You may also look at the Dayton RSS315HF-4 12" Reference HF. You can get 4 of them for a little more than the cost of one TC. Model them in winisd with two in a cabinet. With those you could look at dual opposed setups and then be able to help the room since you would be using "2" subs.


You can also download unibox (need Excel though). Both of these programs (unibox and winisd are free).


James
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If I went with the two Dayton Rss315HF-4 in a single enclosure what size amp would I need. Can I get 1 Bash 500W plate amp for both subs?
 

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IMO were it me, i'd spend the extra $30 or so per subwoofer for the 15", and build two small sealed cabinets, 1 sub per, 1 ep2000 amp to power both cabinets.

Give me some time and ill model up a single sealed cabinet for you.
 

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Ok, here ya go, single 15" Dayton HF series sub, in a 4.4 cubic foot sealed box


22x20x20 external dimensions, using 1" mdf should yield approx 4.4 cubic ft internal volume, anything much smaller than this was stifling the subs performance, but if you want i can model it smaller for you. 500w input


Almost exactly 104db @ 20hz, this is for 1 sub, if you built 2 and placed them in seperate corners you would gain 3db output over the curve.
 

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Ok, here ya go


looks like xmax is about 28hz, and power wise 225 ish.

 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by exojam /forum/post/19541996


Which driver(s) are you going to model? I do not have Excel on this PC so I cannot model anything at this time.


Nevermind, you are very fast.


James

Does winISD work with Open Office? JohnLivings, that's a free (limited) version of office that can be found here .



Hrimnir - Good to see a 'neighbor' helping out on the forums





Good luck with the build,

dbl
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbldare /forum/post/19542157


Does winISD work with Open Office? JohnLivings, that's a free (limited) version of office that can be found here .



Hrimnir - Good to see a 'neighbor' helping out on the forums





Good luck with the build,

dbl

db,


Not sure of that. I did go ahead and grab winisd for this laptop. I do like using unibox though so I will look for Excel.



Hrimnir,


Thanks for putting that up so fast.


James
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hrimnir /forum/post/19542000



Almost exactly 104db @ 20hz, this is for 1 sub, if you built 2 and placed them in seperate corners you would gain 3db output over the curve.

I thought it would go up by 6db. Isn't it 3db when you double the power, and 3db when you double the number of drivers? I could be wrong though.
 

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Only when you co-locate. I.E. if you take two identical subs and stack them on top of each or put them right next to each other, you gain 6db.


If you spread it around the room its 3db, give or take.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by exojam /forum/post/19542190


Hrimnir,


Thanks for putting that up so fast.


James

np
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
wow you guys are awesome. Now im really excited to get to work on this. I'll have to update you all with the build pics. Thanks for everything
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnLivings /forum/post/19542482


wow you guys are awesome. Now im really excited to get to work on this. I'll have to update you all with the build pics. Thanks for everything

Np, are you gonna go with the 15" i modelled up or did you wanna stick with the 12" and the plate amp?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am prob going to go with the 15"
 

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Before purchasing anything I would look at a budget for everything. I was putting out those drivers since they are a lower cost item. Once you have a better idea of a budget then you can deside if you can do multiples or a single higher quality driver (exampl:TC that you originally looked at). There are a lot of drivers between the PE ones and TC's and I am sure more folks can point them out and help you come up with what will work best for you, your room setup and budget.


Then look at amps that would fit your needs.


James
 
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