[CZ Eddie]

I got some of these pipe clamps on ebay awhile back. First, the pipes for these clamps are fairly expensive at Home Depot, so the clamps aren't as inexpensive as you might think.


Second, they SUCK for gluing cabinets together.


Not recommended. A waste of $ IMO.

 

[robertcharles]

Towards the end of my build, I got the Bessey clamps like those and they are fantastic. Fantastic because I used the old pipe from the rental that I repiped and have 50 different lengths from 2 feet -adjustable to whatever I choose. If I did not have the pipe, it would be cost prohibitive like you say.


Those do not seem as substantial as the ones I got- I got mine at lowes

 

[BowerR64]

I used tiny little trim nails. I think they are 1-3/4" long. THey worked good to hold the wood together while the liquid nails dried.


I drilled little holes at first but that didnt work because the head on these nails are so small they just pulled threw. I started pounding them in after that.

 

[robertcharles]

Titebond II Premium Wood Glue is the only leading brand, one-part wood glue that passes the ANSI Type II water-resistance specification. It is ideal for exterior woodworking projects, including outdoor furniture, birdhouses, mailboxes, planters and picnic tables.


Titebond II Premium provides a strong initial tack, fast speed of set, superior strength and excellent sandability. It is FDA approved for indirect food contact (cutting boards) and is ideal for radio frequency (R-F) gluing systems.

5001 - 1.25 oz. Bottle

5002 - 4 oz. Bottle

5003 - 8 oz. Bottle

5004 - 16 oz. Bottle

5005 - Quart Bottle

5006 - Gallon Bottle

5007 - 5 Gallon Pail

5008 - 55 Gallon Drum







Physical Properties (Typical) TypeCross-linking polyvinyl acetate Calculated VOC: 5.5 g/L

StateLiquid Weight/gallon 9.1 lbs.

ColorHoney cream Chalk temperature*Approx. 55°F.

Dried filmTranslucent, yellow Flashpoint >200°F.

Solids 48% Freeze/thaw stability Stable

Viscosity 4,000 cps pH 3.0

Storage life 12 months in tightly closed containers at 75°F.

*Chalk temperature indicates the lowest recommended temperature at which the glue, air and materials can be during application, to assure a good bond.


Application Guidelines Application temperatureAbove 55°F.

Open assembly time5 minutes (70°F./50%RH)

Total assembly time10-15 minutes (70°F./50%RH)

Minimum required spreadApproximately 6 mils or 250 square feet per gallon

Required clamping pressure Enough to bring joints tightly together (generally, 100-150 psi for softwoods, 125-175 psi for medium woods and 175-250 psi for hardwoods)

Methods of application Plastic bottles for fine applications; glue may also be spread with a roller spreader or brush.

Cleanup Damp cloth while glue is wet. Scrape off and sand dried excess.



Bond Strength ASTM D-905

(On Hard Maple) Temperature Strength psi % Wood Failure


Room Temperature 3,750 72

150°F. Overnight 1,750 6



Product Features First one-part wood glue to pass ANSI Type II water-resistance

Designed for exterior use

Excellent sandability

Unaffected by finishes

Ideal for radio frequency (R-F) and hot press gluing systems

FDA approved for indirect food contact

Easy cleanup with water




Limitations Titebond II Premium Wood Glue is not for continuous submersion or for use below the waterline. Not for structural or load bearing applications. Do not use when temperature, glue or materials are below 55°F. Freezing may not affect the function of the product but may cause it to thicken. Agitation should restore product to original form. Because of variances in the surfaces of treated lumber, it is a good idea to test for adhesion. Read MSDS before use. KEEP FROM FREEZING. KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN.


Caution Statement No caution information is needed. Please refer to the Material Safety Data Sheet for further information.


Ordering Information Cat. No. Size Units per

Package Weight Packages

per Pallet


5001 1.25 oz. Bottle 50 6 160

5002 4 oz. Bottle 12 5 270

5003 8 oz. Bottle 12 9 160

5004 16 oz. Bottle 12 16 100

5005 Quart Bottle 6 16 88

5006 Gallon Bottle 2 20 63

5007 5 Gallon Pail 1 51 24

5008 55 Gallon Drum 1 551 4



Important Notice: Our recommendations, if any, for the use of this product are based on tests believed to be reliable. Since the use of this product is beyond the control of the manufacturer, no guarantee or warranty, expressed or implied, is made as to such use or effects incidental to such use, handling or possession or the results to be obtained, whether in accordance with the directions or claimed so to be. The manufacturer expressly disclaims responsibility therefore. Furthermore, nothing contained herein shall be construed as a recommendation to use any product in conflict with existing laws and/or patents covering any material or use.





©1999 Franklin International Legal Disclaimer Privacy Policy



I used the guidelines in the product specs and used clamps. I called them and they told me that the clamp pressure noted was needed for "COMPLETE" bonding to occur- whatever that is, so I used clamps. I would have used screws, but I did not want to deal with split wood or router problems.

 

[djarchow]

Most pipe clamps are junk. I still have a bunch around, but now I always use either the Bessey K Body clamps or the new Jet parallel clamps. They are a lot more money than pipe clamps but never have to worry about them slipping but if you watch for sales, you can get even the 50" ones for under $40.


Regards,


Dennis

 

[mjg100]

For those of you that experience a lot of slipping when using pipe clamps, are you using galvanized pipe? You need to use black iron pipe. Pipe clamps made using galvanized pipe will slip every time.

 

[tvrgeek]

Can't beat the original orange ones. Jourgenson.

But for gluing up boxes, I usually use WEB clamps or just rope and a dowel. I have blocks that look like thick angle iron I put wax paper in to protect and not stick to the corners. The basic technique was in use in Egypt 4500 years ago. Still works.

 

[catapult]

Yup, Jorgensens never slip. I think they use the Pony brand name now for the pipe clamps but it's still the same thing. I've got a bunch of the Jorgensen 3700 bar clamps that I love.

http://www.adjustableclamp.com/

 

[ccaliban]

Everybody knocks Harbor Freight, but their bar clamps work just fine for ~ 1/3 the price of brand names, even less when on one of their frequent sales.

 

[lwj81]

I've found that 2 clamps made out of 2x4's with all-thread rod with washers and nuts work way better than the store bought clamps for gluing up the boxes. It's much faster, easier and the clamping strength is much greater than the clamps you buy.And awhole lot cheaper too

 

[Erich H]



Quote:
Originally Posted by lwj81 /forum/post/16871262


It's much faster, easier and the clamping strength is much greater than the clamps you buy.]

I have read that too much clamping strength can be a problem. You end up squeezing out too much of the glue and in the end, the joint may be weaker.

 

[catapult]



Quote:
Originally Posted by lwj81 /forum/post/16871262


I've found that 2 clamps made out of 2x4's with all-thread rod with washers and nuts work way better than the store bought clamps for gluing up the boxes. It's much faster, easier and the clamping strength is much greater than the clamps you buy.And awhole lot cheaper too

Well, I'll buy that they're cheap and work well.

Nothing beats the Jorgensen bar clamps for light, fast and easy though. You can do them one handed. Flip the pic upside down and imagine holding the bar behind the head. Slide the head forward with your thumb until it snugs. That's enough to hold it in place. Let go and give a twist of the handle. Done. They will do up to 600 pounds of pressure which is more than enough for building cabinets.

 

[CZ Eddie]

The pipe clamps I posted a picture of above suck because they swivel too much. And don't give a flat clamp surface, they tend to squeeze the wood out. I have no idea how other pipe clamps perform. I was just warning against this clamp on ebay.

 

[PassingInterest]



Quote:
Originally Posted by CZ Eddie /forum/post/16866382


I got some of these pipe clamps on ebay awhile back. First, the pipes for these clamps are fairly expensive at Home Depot, so the clamps aren't as inexpensive as you might think.


Second, they SUCK for gluing cabinets together.


Not recommended. A waste of $ IMO.

CZ--Some brands are better than others. That goes without saying.

The one in the photo you posted appears poorly made, but even that is not your main problem.

Your main problem is--it is for 1/2" pipe.


1/2" black pipe bends easily when used as a pipe clamp.

Stick with 3/4".

 

[lwj81]



Well, I'll buy that they're cheap and work well.

Nothing beats the Jorgensen bar clamps for light, fast and easy though.



Yeah,It's about what works the best for each person.I have the Jorgensens but find the 2x4's work better.Only takes 2 to do the whole box at once were as the bar clamps need to be on each corner,Maybe some in the middle if the enclosure is large.

 

[mynym]

I've had great luck with the Harbor Freight box clamps. As someone else mentioned, they are cheap and 1/3 the price. I have some pipe clamps but they are really really hard to handle. Especially when you want to affix a panel flush to another.

Also, I find that the best clamping strategy is to affix horizontal and vertical temporary braces using 1" wide prime strips screwed to the internal panels. Than affixing the panels and clamping them to the temp braces. Remove after securing with glue and screws/brads:

I've also found creative ways of using those 99 cent Harbor Freight rachet clamps, using them as pushers to clamp corner reflectors:

My fav clamps being the 16" rachet clamps:

Regarding the glue. I was a big TiteBond II fan until I tried PL Premium. I'm a changed man after using this superior product. Just don't get any on you!

 

[CZ Eddie]



Quote:
Originally Posted by PassingInterest /forum/post/16872036


CZ--Some brands are better than others. That goes without saying.

The one in the photo you posted appears poorly made, but even that is not your main problem.

Your main problem is--it is for 1/2" pipe.


1/2" black pipe bends easily when used as a pipe clamp.

Stick with 3/4".

I posted the wrong picture. I did get the 3/4. Here's the correct pic. I'll fix the one above.