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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Based on various advice for layout, Speaker selection and soundproofing (thanks Tedd, Ted White and others), i am finally starting my basement theatre. The work for the basement started last week.
I am having my basement contractor do majority of the heavy lifting (he is economical and has worked for a company that has done theatres/recording studios - so he understands what i am talking).

prior thread links on discussion - here and here

Final Finished Look - 7.4.2 Dolby Atmos/DTS:X Theatre





Attached is the final layout for the basement and the theatre.


I am planning to follow BIGmouthinDC's minimalist false wall design and got a lot of inspiration from his work on Bethesda Build for the stage layout.
I am planning to have the 2" Linacoustic RC (got 3 rolls of 50ft's of 2" RC via local pickup - someone had extras lying around. Its more than what i need and i can give it back to someone interested once i am done ) applied on the front and back wall. The false wall /panels will be covered by GOM fabric.

Screen size is finalized at 126" diag. Initially i wanted to have 131", but due to seating distance and position of side surround (90-110 deg requirement), settled for 126". May still change at last minute once drywall is up and starting the meat of the theater.

Due to cost constraints and other reasons (most of the family will be in theater watching when in use), i decided to not do the whole 9 yards of Double stud wall + DD+GG. Spoke to Ted White extensively and he advised its better to go with just DD on all sides and ceiling. He did suggest to do just one layer of Drywall with GG on the ceiling to address footfall noise which i am doing.

Will also be doing 2" OC 703 corner bass traps for all 4 corners.

For the riser, i am going to have it 84 in deep and 8in high

For the carpet in the theatre room, i am using the Joy carpets Curtain Call (Red) from Any day matinee collection - http://www.joycarpets.com/carpet/curtain-call

I did finally convinced myself to move the AV rack to the GYM room corner instead of under the stairs.

Will post pictures of the build soon. Currently the studs are up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Framing for theater done.





Low voltage wiring done and insulated. R19 at ceiling and R13 in the sides. The new OC insulations smell like burnt sugar. I like the smell, but concerned if it will be still be there once the drywall goes up. Anyone experienced this?.

Front wall



Rear wall


The Atmos speakers were angled 55 deg to the MLP and in line with the front left and right. The Front Left and right were to be positioned 22deg to the MLP. My Atmos speakers are not in-ceiling. They (4 of Polk OWM5) will be mounted on the joist.

All outlets were covered with Putty pads.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Adjacent GYM room houses the AV rack at the corner.
As for as wiring goes, here is what i did.
1. 12 AWG Monoprice CL2 rated cable for F/C/R/SL/SR/SBL/SBR/TFR/TFL/TRL/TRR - all not inside a conduit.
2. Monoprice Subwoofer cable - 2 for the front wall. 2 spare run for the rear wall - in case i switch or go 4 in future.
3. 1 Cat6 to PJ (14-15ft from screen) - not in conduit. This cat6 is for my Atlona HDBASET set.
4. 1 HDMI redmere monoprice cable (35ft) to the PJ.
5. 1 spare Cat6 run to the side wall in the middle for a future Touch control panel - not in conduit.
6. 2 Cat6 run via a Carlon 2" Resi-Gard Conduit from the AV closet to the upstairs living room TV (one for Ethernet and another for AV signal via HDBASET).
7. Extra spare 12 AWG Monoprice CL2 rated Speaker wire for F/C/R.
8. Empty 2" Resi-Gard Conduit to the Front of theatre, PJ and future Touch screen panel for any futureproof needs (4K,etc.)

Now the pictures.
AV Closet


Outlets in Closet and one of them is for the UPS for PJ using the reverse method.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
View from Outside of the theater room.


All the doors are 32X80 Solid core door from Masonite 3P safe and sound series. Got it ordered from Lowes.
The AV closet will have wooden shelves and have a glass door. The AV closet will have opening at the top and gap at the bottom for Air flow. The side of the AV closet will have a small access door.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
As for as vents go, i am running one to the AV closet room. One to the theater room at the rear (going to cover with Linacoustic). A return duct from the theater room.

Next up is Drywall starting tomorrow. I am doing the 5/8 double drywall on all sides - no GG except on the top. I originally bought GG to put drywall on the ceiling floor. Tried 3 rows and couldnt do a good job as there were ducts going and wires and gas lines running. Unless i remove all of them and redo, it was a becoming a expensive proposition.

So decided to do the DD+GG on the top ceiling. I did speak to Ted (AVS resident expert on Soundproofing) and got a lot of valuable info and per his advice given my situation it was best to do just DD on all sides without the Double Stud and whisper clips/channels.

As such the noise has come down with just the insulation. So with DD i am sure its going to be considerably reduced from the top floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am in need of urgent help here. When i did my soffit, i forgot to stuff insulation in it and it is drywall'd and sanded now :(. Is this going to be a acoustical disaster?. Anyway to correct it by other means?. Can i attach the Lin RC in the sides of the soffit?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Updates from last 2 weeks.
1. Double Dry wall done (Greenglue only on ceiling side and soffits).
2. Drywall Sanded.
3. Rest of the basement - chairrails and boxes and baseboards done
4. Theatre Stage and riser built.
5. Column layout cut and 2 column frame made so far.

Next week:
1. Finish matching curve on top for the stage.
i2. Prime the walls and then Install 2" Lin RC on the front wall and back wall.
3. Install 2" Lin RC for half of side walls.
4. Finish off all columns (6)

Pictures:

Drywall Install




Finished Drywall




Sanded
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Front Stage: 7 in high front stage with matching 6in high top side.
With lot of info from this forum, this is what i did for the stage -Laid #30 felt paper on concrete floor and built the stage frames. Insted of priming and installing the Lin RC first, my contractor said he will leave 2 in gap on all sides - so the Lin RC can be tucked in and screwed. For the 4 sides where i can't reach, they will be glued to the drywall.

Then put 6 mil plastic sheet on each cavity and poured dry play sand and cut the plastic . The first area had 2 bags of sand being wet - so ended up taking it out and replacing. Once sand was put in, put another layer of felt and then installed 1 layer 3/4 in OSB over it. Placed another layer of felt over the board. Now it is rock solid like cement floor.
Per Big's build threads, i used the primed bendable MDF for the curve.















Frames for the top using steel studs (25Guage Galivanized Steel Tracks). Will fill with insulation and cover it with Drywall and put Lin RC over it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Riser: 8in high riser. Same as front stage, the back wall will have 2" Lin RC and covered with Fabric. So, left a 2" gap for the Lin RC to go all the way to the bottom and also left less than 1/4 in gap on the sides of the riser. Laid the felt on the concrete floor, then built the riser structure. Filled the Riser with R-16 Roxul Safe n Sound Insulation. Covered the riser with 1 layer of 3/4 in OSB. Then laid felt over it. Going to cut 4x16 or 4x20 slots for bass trap registers. Also going to install 3 of the 7v step lights on the front side as BigDC did in some of his builds.

Can any experts chime in if i should drill bunch of holes on the front side of riser for bass traps?. I read a lot of posts only to be confused with the pro's and con's. Getting too technical has it's effect :(.





Columns: Going to have 2 column on each side and 2 in the back. There is also going to be corner bass traps in the back using 2" rigid OC703.
Currently have the column cut and attached the 3 pieces (top,middle and bottom) using pocket screws. 2 have been built so far. Rest of them next week.

 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
10/17 Update:
In the last few weeks, had the theater stage ceiling finished, chair rails and baseboards put in, columns positioned, primed and painted. Also had the Linacoustic put in the fornt and back wall and half of side wall. Built the corner bass traps on all 4 corners.

Theater Ceiling:
Had the theater ceiling (7 inch high) curved and match the stage curve. For the ceiling i used the 25Guage Galivanized Steel Tracks and filled with Roxul Safe and Sound R16 insulation and covered with Drywall. For the ceiling curve used the same primed bendable MDF (2 step) and edged it with Flex Molding (Got it from Amazon).







Columns and Chairrail:
The columns were filled with Roxul R16 safe and sound insulation.


 

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Discussion Starter #13
Paint:
For the theatre paint, I first primed the entire theatre walls and ceilings with grey primer. Then I used mouse ears flat on the ceiling and front stage sides and soffits. The primer was sprayed using the sprayer. Then for the black, 2 coats of spraying and 3rd coat rolled using roller.
The columns were painted using Sherwin Williams Sundried Tomato (SW7585) - Flat. The top half of the side walls were Sherwin Williams Salute (SW 7582) - Flat.
The chairrails, baseboards and trim were Sherwin Williams Tiger Eye (SW6362) - Satin finish.








Lin RC and Corner Bass traps:
I put 2" Linacoustic RC for the front wall and back wall. I left a 2 in gap between the wall and the riser/stage when building- so was able to easy tuck/drop the RC in top and bottom. Used a 4in Deck screw and washer to keep the RC in place. I did the same on the bottom half of the side walls (about 5 ft).

Then cut the 2" OC703 Rigid Fiberglass in 4 piece triangles and stacked them in the 4 corners of the room for bass traps. I used 44 pieces of 2ftx4ftx2" sheets.

The below pictures were taken with lights off using a tripod.


 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Doors and AV Rack:
The doors (32x80) were purchased from Lowes - Masonite Solid Core 1 3/4 " thick - not the safe and sound version. Went with the classic series and 3 Panel to match my rest of the house doors.
The doors were hing and painted with same Mouse Ears black in Satin finish. For the main theater door, i mortised and put the Automatic door bottom (got the Z364AA from tmhardware) with 1" drop. Also put the Door gasket with neoprene seal (Z485 from tmhardware).

The AV rack was custom built shelves with holes for air flow and wire pass thru. Put a glass door 24x80.


Next week is Carpet and then build the famous Big's goalpost design screen frame and mount the screen. Also cover the side wall and rear wall Linc RC with GOM FR703 fabric. Hoping to finish all by 26th.
 

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It looks really nice. I like the color choice. I would have never thought two drastically different colors would work so well together.

Did you have a custom jam made for your door when you special ordered it? Also, in the last photo in post #12 , it looks like you have some type of blocking below the trim and beside the column. How is that going to be used? I'm getting close to the wall treatment section of my build and have been looking at suggestions for covering things with fabric. I wasn't sure what your plan was for the walls.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
It looks really nice. I like the color choice. I would have never thought two drastically different colors would work so well together.

Did you have a custom jam made for your door when you special ordered it? Also, in the last photo in post #12 , it looks like you have some type of blocking below the trim and beside the column. How is that going to be used? I'm getting close to the wall treatment section of my build and have been looking at suggestions for covering things with fabric. I wasn't sure what your plan was for the walls.
Thanks. I was driving myself , contractor and the SW guys nuts with the color :). Went around 8 times to the store and going back and forth on color. If you need the formula for the Mouse Ears black from Behr's let me know.

I did not order a custom jam for the door. I will post a picture of the door tonight and its details.
I used a 2x4 between 2 columns on the horizontal to mount the chair rail. And used a 1x2 all along the sides. These are to mount the fabricmate track when I cover the Lin RC with the FR703 GOM. The 2" of these pine boards will cover the 2" of the Lin RC. That way the chair rail will look clean and i also have something to mount the fabricmate track.
 

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Thanks. I was driving myself , contractor and the SW guys nuts with the color :). Went around 8 times to the store and going back and forth on color. If you need the formula for the Mouse Ears black from Behr's let me know.
I went with the Sherwin Williams TriCorn Black. I haven't put it up yet, but my brother in law is a painting contractor and gets a crazy discount on paint.

These are to mount the fabricmate track when I cover the Lin RC with the FR703 GOM. The 2" of these pine boards will cover the 2" of the Lin RC. That way the chair rail will look clean and i also have something to mount the fabricmate track.
Any reason why you chose the fabricmate over building your own on-wall frames? I considered the track, but it doesn't seem to get used too much. I'll be interested in hearing about your experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I went with the Sherwin Williams TriCorn Black. I haven't put it up yet, but my brother in law is a painting contractor and gets a crazy discount on paint.
Same here with my contractor. Abt $20 for the Promar 200 line. I tried Tricorn black sample first and it didnt look that black as the mouse ears in my room condition. So went with the safe option as many have used the mouse ears.

Any reason why you chose the fabricmate over building your own on-wall frames? I considered the track, but it doesn't seem to get used too much. I'll be interested in hearing about your experience.
I was first going to build my own frames. But, i was always worried about getting a tight finish and clean look (especially with the Lin RC having ridges). I am having my contractor do this piece, so if he doesn't get what i am saying or showing in pictures, he will screw it up. The tracks are easily removable and no stapling involves in the fabric. Also fabricmate loans you all the tool needed to install and once you are done, you can return them. The tipping of the scale came via my free money sitting as ebay bucks - so put it to good use to get the tracks.
 
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