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What height is your ceiling?
The 760 and 790 are quiet machines even when pushed and even at 100% laser your sound track should easily drown it out.
I suggest you do your due diligence and get actual calculations to determine the nits you will get on your chosen screen at that size and that throw, with your chosen projector.
Again, thank you so much.

I enjoy reading your posts.

I'm sad to say the ceiling is only 7' 4" tall. It cannot go taller.

I checked projector central's throw calculator.

At 17' throw distance the estimate is 23 FL brightness with a wide angle ratio of 2.0. (the max is 2.83 according to the site)

At 20 feet throw distance it shows 20 FL brightness with a ratio of 1.7.

The above is with a 1.1 gain screen which was the default on the site. It looks like a 1.0 gain screen knocks a couple of FL off the estimate.

Of course, I can look at a smaller screen as well, but I really wanted a very immersive experience.

Again... Thank you so much. I learn a lot from you (and the others)

Jack
 

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Again, thank you so much.

I enjoy reading your posts.

I'm sad to say the ceiling is only 7' 4" tall. It cannot go taller.

I checked projector central's throw calculator.

At 17' throw distance the estimate is 23 FL brightness with a wide angle ratio of 2.0. (the max is 2.83 according to the site)

At 20 feet throw distance it shows 20 FL brightness with a ratio of 1.7.

The above is with a 1.1 gain screen which was the default on the site. It looks like a 1.0 gain screen knocks a couple of FL off the estimate.

Of course, I can look at a smaller screen as well, but I really wanted a very immersive experience.

Again... Thank you so much. I learn a lot from you (and the others)

Jack
My room is also 88" in height, and I have the 915ES 14.5" away from a 135" 16:9 ST130 screen. I can confirm the unit is quit up to about 80 laser brightness when it becomes noticeable but only during very quit scenes. I think the 156" scope screen might be a little aggressive, but life is trade offs.
 

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My room is also 88" in height, and I have the 915ES 14.5" away from a 135" 16:9 ST130 screen. I can confirm the unit is quit up to about 80 laser brightness when it becomes noticeable but only during very quit scenes. I think the 156" scope screen might be a little aggressive, but life is trade offs.
Thank you for the insight.
I will watch movies the vast majority of the time, so I'm looking at a scope screen....

I can look at a smaller screen. to balance the tradeoff

Thank you
 

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Again, thank you so much.

I enjoy reading your posts.

I'm sad to say the ceiling is only 7' 4" tall. It cannot go taller.

I checked projector central's throw calculator.

At 17' throw distance the estimate is 23 FL brightness with a wide angle ratio of 2.0. (the max is 2.83 according to the site)

At 20 feet throw distance it shows 20 FL brightness with a ratio of 1.7.

The above is with a 1.1 gain screen which was the default on the site. It looks like a 1.0 gain screen knocks a couple of FL off the estimate.

Of course, I can look at a smaller screen as well, but I really wanted a very immersive experience.

Again... Thank you so much. I learn a lot from you (and the others)

Jack
Thanks for the kind words.
Maybe going a little more modest on the screen size may help? Bigger isn't always better. ;)
If you get a mount that keeps the unit as flush to the ceiling as possible that will help and I wouldn't worry too much about the fan noise as it is not really that obtrusive at max and it will be the same with any projector like this. The only way to get quieter would be to buy a 1080p model.
 

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Thanks for the kind words.
Maybe going a little more modest on the screen size may help? Bigger isn't always better. ;)
If you get a mount that keeps the unit as flush to the ceiling as possible that will help and I wouldn't worry too much about the fan noise as it is not really that obtrusive at max and it will be the same with any projector like this. The only way to get quieter would be to buy a 1080p model.
Once again.... Thank you.

I'm sorry I wasn't really clear. My concern about the short ceiling is someone bumping into the projector.... I'm thinking I could move the projector between the two rows to reduce that risk.

I also think a smaller screen is possible.

The designer wants me to have a smaller screen for the aesthetics of the proscenium anyway....

Thank you so much. I expect I will go with the 915 and have the design and calculations determine the location.....

Thank you and keep posting... I learn a lot from you.

Jack
 

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Once again.... Thank you.

I'm sorry I wasn't really clear. My concern about the short ceiling is someone bumping into the projector.... I'm thinking I could move the projector between the two rows to reduce that risk.

I also think a smaller screen is possible.

The designer wants me to have a smaller screen for the aesthetics of the proscenium anyway....

Thank you so much. I expect I will go with the 915 and have the design and calculations determine the location.....

Thank you and keep posting... I learn a lot from you.

Jack
Sounds like a plan.
Thanks. Don't worry, I will carry on posting, much to many people's chagrin no doubt. ;)
 
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Once again.... Thank you.

I'm sorry I wasn't really clear. My concern about the short ceiling is someone bumping into the projector.... I'm thinking I could move the projector between the two rows to reduce that risk.

I also think a smaller screen is possible.

The designer wants me to have a smaller screen for the aesthetics of the proscenium anyway....

Thank you so much. I expect I will go with the 915 and have the design and calculations determine the location.....

Thank you and keep posting... I learn a lot from you.

Jack
If you want to keep people from hitting their head on the projector, you don't mount it between the rows, you mount it right above a seat. You can't hit your head on the projector if you can't walk under it. Also if you want to keep as much head height as possible, build your second row riser in two parts, if you need more than 7" of seat riser height. Second riser would just be the size of the seating. That way it does not cost you any more ceiling height than 7".

Or you build the riser the total height needed, but just the size of the seating and have the step in front of the riser, carry to the row in front. Once again, you only lose 7" of height, right in front of the seats. The rest of the room would have full height.
 

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If you want to keep people from hitting their head on the projector, you don't mount it between the rows, you mount it right above a seat. You can't hit your head on the projector if you can't walk under it. Also if you want to keep as much head height as possible, build your second row riser in two parts, if you need more than 7" of seat riser height. Second riser would just be the size of the seating. That way it does not cost you any more ceiling height than 7".

Or you build the riser the total height needed, but just the size of the seating and have the step in front of the riser, carry to the row in front. Once again, you only lose 7" of height, right in front of the seats. The rest of the room would have full height.
Mike,

Thank you. This was very helpful and logical.

I have been doing riser height calculations today and your guidance makes a lot of sense.

I unfortunately have a challenged room.

Again, Thank you

Jack
 

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After the calibration, pleased to advise I'm much happier with the HDR performance. Also, may-be not completely resolved, but last night my hdmi hand shake issues were gone for regular BD discs, and then UHD. Fingers crossed. It may not be scientific but I believe it may take time for the different units to get used to each other. Question, when you use the 'reset' option does it just reset for a specific mode ie: Reference SD will not effect Reference HDR?
 

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After the calibration, pleased to advise I'm much happier with the HDR performance. Also, may-be not completely resolved, but last night my hdmi hand shake issues were gone for regular BD discs, and then UHD. Fingers crossed. It may not be scientific but I believe it may take time for the different units to get used to each other. Question, when you use the 'reset' option does it just reset for a specific mode ie: Reference SD will not effect Reference HDR?
That wasn't the case with mine.
As for reset, I believe it resets the chosen preset entirely of both SDR & HDR settings.
 

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Peter and Archibald (or others) what colour temp do you use on your Sony PJ?
Custom 2, I think you can get a brighter picture because with Custom 3 (or D65000) blue could not be increased therefore you have to lower red and green, which will result in a “darker” image, compared to Custom2
 

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Peter and Archibald (or others) what colour temp do you use on your Sony PJ?
I did use D65
But now I use Custom 5.
 

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Curious issue I'm still having is when changing inputs on my avr from cable to blu-ray player, or starting a disc when on the blu-ray player input, is the screen goes pink pixilly (can still hear sound) and I have to switch back to the cable input then back to the player and the image is clear. Replaced the player cable with a no name 8K one from Amazon, but will install some 6ft Monoprice 8K just received to see if that makes a difference.
As you have a pioneer AVR, try this:
Very quickly (you don't need to wait or anything) press the AVR remote 'home' button and then straightaway afterwards (don't wait for the home screen to come up) press the 'back' arrow.
That will make it work if it is the same thing I was suffering.
 
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Recent posts has me thinking it's my Pioneer receiver which is causing the existing issues with stating the blu-ray player and discs.
It is deffo the Pioneer AVR. My symptoms started the moment I 'upgraded' from my SC-LX89 to a SC-LX901. So no one can tell me it isn't something in the HDMI chipset of that gen of AVR.
I had zero issues with the 89.
Pioneer washed their hands of it, although they did claim to have tested the situation.
 

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As you have a pioneer AVR, try this:
Very quickly (you don't need to wait or anything) press the AVR remote 'home' button and then straightaway afterwards (don't wait for the home screen to come up) press the 'back' arrow.
That will make it work if it is the same thing I was suffering.
I will add to that, I noticed that the signal is RGB (bit depth is not shown; Thanks Sony:mad:) when the snow happens. I reckon there is some flaw or glitch in the HDMI chipset in the Pioneer that will not accept/pass on the HDCP part of the signal, with that particular signal, and thus all you get is snow. (Thanks Pioneer :mad:).
When the snow appears, doing my quick two button press trick would cure it every time! But even that quick fix got tiresome in the end and the HD Fury fixed it.
Even though it was demonstrably repeatable and reliably happening, AND I had zeros issues with all the same gear and an LX89, Pioneer refused to admit it was their product that caused the problem.
I now see that Denon is having HDMI issues with X-Box series X consoles on the 4K 120hz HDMI port too, despite it supposedly being able to work.
Why the hell can't they get things working properly before they release them these days?
Relying on firmware updates, that actually often don't get done due to a 'new' model with the fixes implemented already, is no way to be going on.
 

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I will add to that, I noticed that the signal is RGB (bit depth is not shown; Thanks Sony:mad:) when the snow happens. I reckon there is some flaw or glitch in the HDMI chipset in the Pioneer that will not accept/pass on the HDCP part of the signal, with that particular signal, and thus all you get is snow. (Thanks Pioneer :mad:).
When the snow appears, doing my quick two button press trick would cure it every time! But even that quick fix got tiresome in the end and the HD Fury fixed it.
Even though it was demonstrably repeatable and reliably happening, AND I had zeros issues with all the same gear and an LX89, Pioneer refused to admit it was their product that caused the problem.
I now see that Denon is having HDMI issues with X-Box series X consoles on the 4K 120hz HDMI port too, despite it supposedly being able to work.
Why the hell can't they get things working properly before they release them these days?
Relying on firmware updates, that actually often don't get done due to a 'new' model with the fixes implemented already, is no way to be going on.
Did the Fury also assist in quick boot up? I find it takes some time for the equipment to click in the the PJ.
 

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Did the Fury also assist in quick boot up? I find it takes some time for the equipment to click in the the PJ.
It may just be because I didn't get snow any more, and wasn't pressing two buttons every time, but it did seem a little more spritely. Definitely was if you count how long it takes to press home and back.
However, in reality I don't think it added or subtracted anything. The rock solid signal passage through all devices more than makes up for how long it takes.
TVs are very fast at HDMI switching and I am at a loss as to why projectors seem like they are using 1980's tech when it comes to HDMI.
 

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I see custom 5 'prioritizes brightness' what is the colour temp similar to D65....
I used custom 5 because it was the only one that wasn't based on the 'standard' presets of D93, D75, D65 and D55. I felt better about twiddling with that than the others.
I have twiddled with it in the service menu to get it how I want and what looks best in my room. I have aimed for D65 but that always has a sort of 'just before sunset' look to me so it will be a little different. :)
 
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