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I just had a bad calibration experience. The local calibrator came and worked on my television (P552ui-B2) on Monday. At the end, he packed up his stuff and we played a Dolby demo disc he'd brought along. He was distressed by some posterization that he saw in those images and immediately started tweaking color, tint and brightness to try to get rid of it. He got it to where he seemed to like it, then told me that Color and Tint were like salt and pepper and would probably need to be tweaked for various sources.

That evening I tried watching some recorded network television on my TiVo Roamio and it was a mess. Skin tones weren't just off, they were mottled and shifting with tiny blotches of unnatural color like cyan. The entire effect made the picture a little muddy and low-def seeming. No amount of backlight, brightness, color or tone adjustments would make it go away, so I bailed his CMS settings and punched back in Buzz's daytime settings, which though not perfect were watchable, with even skin tones. Eventually I decided that Buzz's were a bit too subdued and started using the "Cool" color-temp based "Standard" preset with the backlight turned down. It's a bit too blue but the reds and skin tones are decent; it'll do for the moment.

When punching Buzz's numbers back in for the "Normal" color temp, I noticed that the white balance table had not been changed from Buzz's numbers for daytime. Before he left, I'd asked the calibrator whether he'd set up white balance because I hadn't noticed him doing it and he said that he had. If he did, they matched Buzz's numbers exactly (seems unlikely) or Buzz's numbers came back magically (seems unlikelier).

I sent him a couple of emails explaining the situation and he sent me one back today saying that he'd put a full refund in the mail. I thanked him for the refund and apologized for having wasted his time (not precisely what I was thinking; I was being polite).

On to the next guy, I guess. This guy's website proclaimed him to be "Greater San Diego’s Only ISF Level 2 Certified Calibration Service". Seems unlikely; we'll see.
I recognize that website! I remember trying to find any info on whether he really knew what he was doing but then decided against it when I found out Dnice comes down to San Diego and that his rates are ridiculously good compared to the competition amongst his peers (basically you don't get any travel charges).
 

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To each their own. This fits in the same category as those who criticize anyone who buys a high end TV and doesn't use an AVR and external speakers for sound or those who say you can't see 4K anyway so why did you bother. It may not fit your use case but that doesn't make it either wrong or uncommon. I can think of plenty of real world situations where people watch at that angle -- a bunch of people over for the big game and not everyone can have the best seats, a basement game room where you're not always watching from the seating area, etc. In my house our family room 65" plasma is also viewed sometimes from our primary eating area in the adjacent breakfast nook and the TV is at at ~60 degree angle (even after using the awesome built-in swivel stand). It's not the way we would sit down to watch a movie for the first time with the lights off, but it's perfectly fine to see the day's news or a game show or a kids show, etc. And it's still nice having a screen where there is no discernible loss of color, contrast or brightness versus center angles…
Yes, you are quite right. Didn't mean to upset people but I really do dislike watching a screen from a noticeable angle. I even make it a point to go to theaters when they aren't crowded so I can get a center seat!
When I have company over to watch something on my Sharp 80" I try to limit it to 3 people plus me. I have a high end Sanus mount which extends, tilts, rotates, and swivels to minimize extreme angles for everyone.
I have a sister who has her favorite chair when she visits me and she says the TV looks just fine. She is watching it at 45 degrees at least and the contrast is severely lacking. She is OK with it but I could not stand it for 2 minutes. Again, not everyone is sensitive to watching distorted low contrast content but I would think that most of the people here at AVS would be.
 

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Here it is so it doesn't need to be hunted down
Btw. just wanted to repeat the disclaimer that shared settings do not always work out on every set. They can and usually are helpful with getting most of the the settings right, but some details in grayscale or color would generally require each set to be calibrated individually for the ultimate accuracy. A lot of times they'll be in the ballpark though and look better than out of the box settings, and chances are good they transfer well on Vizios, as they seem to be quite uniform between sets...

Buzzard also included a direct link to my settings in his post #3 on the first page of the thread - thanks Buzz :)

So good luck, and hopefully the settings work out for most ;)
 

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I've found that HDMI5 looks fantastic for 1080p sources (Destiny on PS4 looks amazing), but also looks good for high-quality sources of lower resolutions (like 720p PS3 games or 480p DC games). The HDMI5 low-latency mode is no joke: it's one of the most amazing things I've seen on a TV. I don't think I'll ever be able to go back to a TV that doesn't offer such low lag times.

My cable box is unwatchably awful through HDMI5, but looks pretty good through the other inputs (depending on each channel's source quality). I find that 720p channels look a lot better than 1080i.

I'm very happy with the set so far.
 

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Well if you guys can talk Buzz into driving up to Venice when he is in Naples, FL he is welcome to calibrate my P70 as a test :D
I'll be in Naples from the first of the year until the end of February. It'll cost you gas, depreciation, and beer.......




I can't seem to find anything.
Anyone calibrate these puppies? How did it go?
It is 1415...I book marked it when he posted so I could find it easily when my P70 arrives from Costco (today).
This Thread > Page ONE > Post # 3 > top of the post......... It'll be updated with calibration results as we go along (not just my findings)




This is where I'm at. But in need of a new 60" I would have gotten the P 4k just because it's only a few dollars more than a 1080p 60" and has some advanced tech like 6 core cpu, etc. However, I only watch comcast cable, dvr, and sports. I'm worried the P 4k will look worse than a regular 1080p set for the stuff I watch. Something I won't be able to test at the best buy.
Not likely.




BUZZARD, I can 100% confirm that the vizio 60p is a VA panel. And if someone has already posted, just another confirmation.
Thanks a bunch. You're the first to positively report the 60P being VA. Much appreciated.
 

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Hello everyone im new to the site but I like what i see. I picked up the p60 from Costco Sunday hooked her up Sunday night and wasnt happy, the picture was awful. Then I used z-mad calibration settings and the picture looks amazing, the only problem im having is im getting alot of distortion. During small action scenes and around lettering on the screen. My old set was a samsung un55es6500 and I didn't have these problems. Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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Here's a screenshot of Destiny's loading screen that shows the local dimming glow. It's the only time I've noticed that effect so far.

This is blooming, right? How noticeable is this in person (versus what the camera shows)? Does this happen with other stuff as well, like credits?
 

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Appears to be the AUO VA panel and matches the pixel structure on my M65. This aligns with the sourcing strategy and the identifier at the end of the models to indicate panel supplier.

B2 = AUO
B3 = Sharp

I have seen this same (or very close variant) AUO panel on some 65" Samsung sets. Makes sense right? There are very limited suppliers making 65" panels.

The P552ui-B2 is supposedly an IPS panel. AUO does make a 2160 res 55" panel but it's AMVA, not IPS.
 

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Here's a screenshot of Destiny's loading screen that shows the local dimming glow. It's the only time I've noticed that effect so far.

Yup, that's blooming but not really bad at all if the picture accurately reflects what you're seeing.
 

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I did get a firmware update downloaded automatically. Unfortunately I didn't get to read about it as I was in the middle of clicking between menus and dismissed it accidentally.

Huh? Something popped up on your screen telling you that your television had received a firmware update? What do you see for "Version" on the System/System Information dialog?
 

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This is blooming, right? How noticeable is this in person (versus what the camera shows)? Does this happen with other stuff as well, like credits?
I have noticed some of this, especially in loading screens and credits. (My experience is with a P55.) It's noticeable, but not terribly distracting, and per my understanding, it's inherent to FALD. More zones could alleviate the issue, but you'd have to hold out for the R series for that :)
 

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With the limited actual UHD content we have its kind of hard to say you can't "see" a difference when so much of it is streamed at low bit rates and would qualify as closer to 1080p BR instead of actual UHD content.

I would say that The Blacklist from Netflix in 15.6 Mbps HEVC is superior to anything that I've seen on Blu-ray. The level of detail makes it seem almost 3D, like you could walk into the screen.
 
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This is blooming, right? How noticeable is this in person (versus what the camera shows)? Does this happen with other stuff as well, like credits?
That's the only time I've noticed it so far. I'm watching a Blu-Ray tonight, so we'll see what the credits look like.

Yup, that's blooming but not really bad at all if the picture accurately reflects what you're seeing.
The picture is accurate to how it looks in person. It doesn't bother me, because I never see that bloom in regular content.
 

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I got my P60 this afternoon.

Lag tests on P60 using Rock Band on PS3:

Through AVR, HDMI4 no game mode: 117ms
Through AVR, HDMI4 game mode: 78ms

Through AVR, HDMI5 no game mode: 71ms
Through AVR, HDMI5 game mode: 14ms (holy crap!)

I was suspicious of that final test, so I ran it a second time and got 16ms. Wow!

720p games through the PS3 look fine on HDMI5, and since my AVR doesn't seem to add any lag, I think I'll just run the AVR through HDMI5, and remove my cable box from the AVR and hook that up directly to HDMI4 (since I noticed that the cable box looks better through that input).

Now I'm jealous--the best I got was 42 ms testing with RB3 on an Xbox 360, on HDMI 5 with Game Low Latency on, through my HDMI switch and AVR or direct connected to the television (made no difference--the AVR wasn't adding lag. I only have a single PS3 RB controller (a Peak Starpex full-sized wooden controller which I should have sold years ago) and it's not auto-calibration capable. I also don't have a copy of RB for PS3 (you can get RB2 for $25 or so for PS3, but forget about a copy of RB3 for PS3 for less than $120 or so and prepare to pay even more dearly for a PS3 plastic strat with auto-cal sensors). I do have a copy of PS3 GH5; I could try manual calibration with the Peak Starpex with that, just for sh*ts and giggles.

I'm using the next-to-the-last software update of RB3 from disc in order to play some songs of questionable legality with some files stored on a flash drive. I'll have to dick around with auto-calibration in other versions of RB, like RB2, Lego, Green Day and The Beatles and see if the results are any different (of course, if these values work well in RB3, and last I checked they did, I shouldn't get anything different with the others. Could just be that the Xbox 360's wireless RB3 controller introduces more lag than the PS3's; it's a true Xbox wireless controller whereas PS3 wireless RB controllers use a USB wireless dongle.

This makes me want to throw away $114 on a Bodnar device even more :rolleyes:.
 
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