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I don't think you are understanding that image correctly. The backlight brightness is being determined by the single zone with some bright content (for which we can assume that the backlight is 'full on' for the sake of argument).

All of the other dimming zones in the lower picture have their brightness set at the same level - this way there is no bloom/halo to notice but there is also no 'local' dimming going on. The entire backlight (outside of the letterbox bars) is having its brightness determined by the brightest section of the image - this is frame dimming.

Hopefully this is just an overreaction / mistake that Vizio is going to correct soon.
Thanks, that makes sense. It's hard to fathom a solution to lessen the effect of zone switching (or was it a solution to eliminate blooming) to be so sledgehammer like. It's stuff like this that sends me to the rtings site to look at the black uniformity picture of the F7150 and ponder if I could live with that. Z-Mad was able to. I guess I'm panicking.
 

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Hi everyone! I've been lurking on this forum for awhile, and decided to register today to ask a question...


I have a 46" Vizio that is about 4 years old, and the lag in the HDMI port has finally gotten to be too much. I am an avid gamer, and I play a lot of Madden specifically. That slight delay in making a throw or making a cut can be a killer online.

Anyway, I've been looking for a new TV, and I figured I'd make the jump to a 4K TV. I mean, I might as well. I have been looking at this Vizio, the B8200 LG and the HU6950 Samsung. (no need for 3D, gimmicky).

Obviously picture quality is important, but as a gamer, I am really concerned with display lag (the reason I'm finally ditching my old TV).

I have been trying to read through all of the reviews and threads I could on these TVs, and it looks like the Vizio is the best in this regard. I have read mixed reviews on the Samsung and the LG as gaming TVs. The Vizio though seems like the way to go.


Basically, can someone confirm this for me? The 17ms lag through the main HDMI port is fantastic.

Now, I just need to decide between the 50 and the 55. There shouldn't be any real differences between the two, correct?



Thanks for any help guys. This is a great site to read through when trying to make purchasing decision, as long as you can follow all of the technical bits, haha (as an engineer, I try my best).
 

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I have a new 55" P series that will be used primarily for video games. I'm trying to get old consoles working (NES, SNES, N64) and not getting anything to work. I've tried using a coax connection (RF) on the NES and composite video. Both just show "No signal" on the Vizio. As for the N64 I was able to get video to show up using composite video connection but it's black and white.

A couple of questions,

Any ideas on how to get the RF connection through coax to work with an nes?

For the composite video connection the issue appears to be that Vizio combines component and composite video on the same port. I see no way to select composite from the inputs, only component. Another weird thing is the black and white picture only shows up intermittently as if the Vizio has trouble detecting a signal.

Ps all of these work fine on my Sony LED purchased in 2014.

Thanks!

i have emulators on my mac book pro retina using apple tv and the p65 is the best 8 bit gaming display ive ever seen, think you can get everything up to xbox and ps2 on emulators
 

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Basically, can someone confirm this for me? The 17ms lag through the main HDMI port is fantastic.
Now, I just need to decide between the 50 and the 55. There shouldn't be any real differences between the two, correct?
We don't know. I'm the one who tested the P55 with the Leo Bodnar lag tester and got a reading of 17ms. I'll be receiving a P60 on Tuesday and will measure that one. Other than that, I have seen no Bodnar test reports anywhere.
 

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Basically, can someone confirm this for me? The 17ms lag through the main HDMI port is fantastic.

Now, I just need to decide between the 50 and the 55. There shouldn't be any real differences between the two, correct?
I tested the P60 with Rock Band and got times 14ms and 16ms. It seems like all of these sets have really low input lag on HDMI5 with GLL turned on.
 

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Thanks, that makes sense. It's hard to fathom a solution to lessen the effect of zone switching (or was it a solution to eliminate blooming) to be so sledgehammer like. It's stuff like this that sends me to the rtings site to look at the black uniformity picture of the F7150 and ponder if I could live with that. Z-Mad was able to. I guess I'm panicking.
I emailed Vizio to express my displeasure (and suggest making the FALD controls adjustable), and I suggest everybody else with the set do the same.
 

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Basically, can someone confirm this for me? The 17ms lag through the main HDMI port is fantastic.

Buzz did the Bodnar test (search the thread for "Bodnar"). I and two other people have tested with Rock Band auto-calibration, which does a similar sort of thing with a photo sensor in a wireless game controller. The different RB games reported different numbers (on Xbox 360): RB3 gives me 40 ms, RB2 gives me 30 ms, Green Day and The Beatles give me 25 ms and I get 16 ms from Lego. In any case, lag with Game Low Latency on on HDMI 5 is about 55 ms less than with it turned off. Turning it on disables Film Mode and Smooth Motion Effect (the latter silently without greying it out or anything). There's tons more lag on other HDMI inputs, though Game Low Latency makes a difference on them as well; HDMI 5 is special. (HDMI 1 with GLL on has slightly more lag than HDMI 5 with GLL turned off).
Now, I just need to decide between the 50 and the 55. There shouldn't be any real differences between the two, correct?

The 55" is an IPS panel (the only one in the series) which has a lower native contrast (supposedly around 1000:1 vs the VA panels' 5000:1) but I have a 55" and am quite happy with it's contrast with Local Dimming enabled. When there are blacks around the edge of the screen they make the jet black bezel face disappear in a dark room. There may be more bloom around single objects on a dark field than the VA panels, but I've never seen distracting bloom in an actual scene.
 

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For those of you who bought directly from vizio. How long did it take from time of purchase to having it in house?
 

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Hmmm... well that works for me. Like I said, I am mainly going to be using this for gaming, so limiting display lag is one of the main goals for me (as opposed to pure quality).

It sounds like the 55" has been tested, and it has performed very well in this regard. The 50" has not yet been tested though.

Is being an IPS Panel a big deal? I don't really need a 55" (in fact, it may be borderline too big). Do you think the 50" would be a better choice then?



I was planning on heading to Best Buy tomorrow and ordering this, but it sounds like maybe I should wait. It does seem like this is the better choice over the Samsung and LG though, so at least I picked a TV.



Thanks again everyone.
 

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I have a new 55" P series that will be used primarily for video games. I'm trying to get old consoles working (NES, SNES, N64) and not getting anything to work. I've tried using a coax connection (RF) on the NES and composite video. Both just show "No signal" on the Vizio. As for the N64 I was able to get video to show up using composite video connection but it's black and white.

A couple of questions,

Any ideas on how to get the RF connection through coax to work with an nes?

For the composite video connection the issue appears to be that Vizio combines component and composite video on the same port. I see no way to select composite from the inputs, only component. Another weird thing is the black and white picture only shows up intermittently as if the Vizio has trouble detecting a signal.

Ps all of these work fine on my Sony LED purchased in 2014.

Thanks!
Uh oh, this worries me.

I'm a long time lurker. I've been following the P Series since it was announced, and I'm very seriously considering purchasing the 50" model to replace an 8 year old 42" Panasonic TH-42PX60U plasma. In addition to my PS3 and PS4, I plan on hooking up my Nintendo Wii via component cables. Would anyone be willing to test the input lag on the component input? Thanks!!!

One additional question for current P series owners. When you use the optical out to a receiver, do the internal speakers get muted?
 

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I just posted my new updated P70 settings with Computer color temp as the base in my post here for those who were waiting for it. :) As I'd initially said when I noticed the color shift just below peak white, the fix was in fact to lower contrast a bit to get peak white below where that shift occurred and recalibrate. To compensate for the lost brightness, I upped the Backlight but actually max'd it out without quite getting the brightness quite all the way back up to my target 40 fL. It actually outputs about 36 for peak white, which is great for nighttime viewing but those using this in the day in a bright room may need to turn Clear Action off and adjust the Backlight to their liking to get it as bright as they need. I also found that turning contrast down the few clicks made the grayscale calibration much easier this time around (and when you actually look at the numbers I'm using, especially on the 11-point settings, you'll see why actually - I didn't have to fight nearly as hard to get it in-line).
 

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Thanks, that makes sense. It's hard to fathom a solution to lessen the effect of zone switching (or was it a solution to eliminate blooming) to be so sledgehammer like. It's stuff like this that sends me to the rtings site to look at the black uniformity picture of the F7150 and ponder if I could live with that. Z-Mad was able to. I guess I'm panicking.

To be clear, the 'fix' included in the new firmware may only come in to play when it detects an all-black screen except for some bright pixels underlying one or two dimming zones. I really don't give a hoot what local dimming does in a completely artificial (and unreailistic) situation like that. Much more interested to know how the local dimming performs for a much more realistic (but challenging) scene like the famous one from TRON II (which shows a great deal of halo/bloom in this case):
 

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Ok I've been at work and am now at home catching up with this firmware update that sounds as if it's not a wanted one. I haven't received an update yet and am asking whether or not you could decline it or not? I really don't need the apps on the tv as I have a Roko stick currently plugged into my Oppo so I could disconnect my ethernet connection. Movies, TV, sports are my main watching choices.
 

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If you disconnect the tv from the internet then you wont get the update.

However if this only changes what happens on like the destinty screen i dont care. As long as it can still give me black black bars and turn things off during mixed scenes.
 

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If you disconnect the tv from the internet then you wont get the update.

However if this only changes what happens on like the destinty screen i dont care. As long as it can still give me black black bars and turn things off during mixed scenes.
So the update can't be declined? I may just disconnect my P70 looks very good with the exception that I need to tweak it a little as live flesh tones are slightly green using Z-MAds settings
 

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So the update can't be declined? I may just disconnect my P70 looks very good with the exception that I need to tweak it a little as live flesh tones are slightly green using Z-MAds settings
You could try one of my settings (here or here) - the first one is specific to HDMI 1-4 (I noticed that the exact same source is slightly more saturated than the 'special' HDMI 5 on my P70); the second is for HDMI 5. When calibrating my P70, I paid special attention to the inner saturation points and the color swatches in the 'color checker' to minimize their error more than the 100% saturation points that don't have a lot of use in real content. Since flesh tones are considered so important since we can instantly easily tell if they're off, those are actually a couple of the color swatches in the color checker. :)
 

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Hey boys and girls! I just got my 70 P home from Costco and now I'm worried the screen has terrible uniformity issues.

When I turn off the Zones I get what appears to be terrible uniformity issues: see below.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/15442063312/

Of course, with zones on I get this:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/15255843277/

So I'm assuming that another trip to Costco is in order?

Thanks for helping a brother out.
I know cameras make such things much more noticeable than they are in-person but if it's anything like that for real then yes the uniformity could / should be a lot better than that - with zones off my screen is still very even - not 100% perfect mind you, but nothing like that. ;)
 
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