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I had the same thing essentially. Then I followed the advice from here about gently rubbing/wiping the screen. I used a microfiber cloth and some spray glass cleaner (safe for TV/LED Screens) and I just wiped the screen using gentle pressure going in a circular motion from one side to the other and back a few times. All the clouding is now gone. It worked like a charm. I don't know if you have given this a try or not. But if you have not, perhaps it will help for you as it did for me.
Thanks for the suggestion, dude. Yeah, I remember reading that in an earlier post so tried that as well, but it does not work in my case. I've already gone and set up a replacement with Best Buy for the 18th. The sales guy I had originally worked with told me that I was to be the first person to ask for a replacement, but I had taken some photos and when I showed him he said "oh that's not good." I had him go to the floor model and switch to the menu so I could see if that TV demonstrated what I was seeing on mine and it had perfect corners and zero clouding. I've attached a pic of what I see when in the same menu: cloudy spots in the corners and more in the middle. It actually looks way worse in reality.

You know, I did try bumping LD to High and it seems to have corrected the issue. At least, I am not seeing it anymore and I'm looking really hard. There must be some downsides to running LD in High, though, right..? I have to say I've never seen blacks look this good before and it's remarkable just how good the picture is!

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone!
 

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Guys what is the best setting for smooth movement and scrolling text (end of a film), without SOE?

I've been swapping between Standard and True Cinema per previous recommendations, both with Film Mode set to High, however both tend to look a bit average to my eyes compared with Smooth or Custom? Like they stutter a little on rolling credits.
 

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Guys what is the best setting for smooth movement and scrolling text (end of a film), without SOE?

I've been swapping between Standard and True Cinema per previous recommendations, both with Film Mode set to High, however both tend to look a bit average to my eyes compared with Smooth or Custom? Like they stutter a little on rolling credits.
I posted my thoughts on motion control settings early in this thread, but since the question is a popular one, I'll repeat my opinions, FWIW.

The motion control options are Smooth, Standard, Clear, TrueCinema, and Custom. The "Smoothness" and "Clearness" settings apply only to the Custom setting, and have ranges Min,1,2,3,4 and Max.

To assess the performance of each setting, I rely on the Motion test patterns on the Spears&Munsil test disk. There are threee Morion tests, the Stock Ticker, the moving Logo, and a swinging rope hammock.

I find the Stock Ticker the easiest to observe the effectiveness of the various motion settings. With motion control set to Off, the stock ticker is clearly very jerky. Standard and TrueCinem settings offer very little improvement. The Clear setting, while definitely improving motion judder, darkens the screen considerably, so is not recommended. This leaves Smooth and Custom, both of which are quite effective at reducing motion judder. With Custom, I find a Smoothness setting of 4 produces the most judder reduction (I could not see further improvement with Max). And for the Clearness setting, anything above Min darkens the picture, so I recommend the Min setting. And finally, Smooth introduces a bit of SOE, which some might find undesirable. Also, set Cinemotion to High for the best results, regardless of the Motion Control setting.

Bottom line, based on the S&M tests, a setting of Custom, with Smoothness=4 and Clearness=Min is my recommendation. Of course, in order to make your decision, you should also rely on watching real content, especially if you don't have the S&M disk, to make your decision.
 

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I posted my thoughts on motion control settings early in this thread, but since the question is a popular one, I'll repeat my opinions, FWIW.

The motion control options are Smooth, Standard, Clear, TrueCinema, and Custom. The "Smoothness" and "Clearness" settings apply only to the Custom setting, and have ranges Min,1,2,3,4 and Max.

To assess the performance of each setting, I rely on the Motion test patterns on the Spears&Munsil test disk. There are threee Morion tests, the Stock Ticker, the moving Logo, and a swinging rope hammock.

I find the Stock Ticker the easiest to observe the effectiveness of the various motion settings. With motion control set to Off, the stock ticker is clearly very jerky. Standard and TrueCinem settings offer very little improvement. The Clear setting, while definitely improving motion judder, darkens the screen considerably, so is not recommended. This leaves Smooth and Custom, both of which are quite effective at reducing motion judder. With Custom, I find a Smoothness setting of 4 produces the most judder reduction (I could not see further improvement with Max). And for the Clearness setting, anything above Min darkens the picture, so I recommend the Min setting. And finally, Smooth introduces a bit of SOE, which some might find undesirable. Also, set Cinemotion to High for the best results, regardless of the Motion Control setting.

Bottom line, based on the S&M tests, a setting of Custom, with Smoothness=4 and Clearness=Min is my recommendation. Of course, in order to make your decision, you should also rely on watching real content, especially if you don't have the S&M disk, to make your decision.

My observation exactly! While I came to the same conclusion working on these settings while watching live football as I do not have access to the material you have, I found this to be the best overall setting for motion blur/judder. I have mine on Custom with Smoothness at Max and Clearness at Min.
 

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For me with ARC setup, I do see the volume bar on the tv along with it adjusting the receiver volume when I'm using a remote that is set to control the tv's volume. On my logitech remote, if the selected device is the tv, and I go change volume the volume bar appears on the tv. If I use the receiver's remote, or select the receiver on the universal remote and change volume then I get no volume bar on the tv. On the universal remote I have the volume buttons control the volume of the receiver only by default for all 'activities', though I noticed this behavior when I switched to the 'Sony TV' device to modify menu settings.
I was getting the double volume bars using the Sony remote, the Marantz remote, and the Marantz remote iOS app (no IR) on the ARC connection. The "fix" for me was to disable the receivers volume display, now I only see the TV's OSD. Hopefully the next FW update fixes the issue.
 

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If using arc the tv's volume indicator does pop up to show avr volume level. At least it did with my marantz when I was using arc. I switched to optical early on and have never wanted to go back to arc.
Are there any disadvantages to switching from ARC to running an optical cable out to the receiver? Any sync issues? Do you run all of your HDMI inputs through the receiver, or direct to the TV?

Which brings up my my next question, is it better run all inputs through the receiver and then only run one HDMI to the TV, or are we better off running each input directly to the TV? One advantage to going direct would be to have different picture settings for each input, without having to swap back and forth.

I have the Marantz SR7010, so it's a good receiver. @AustinJerry, what's your suggestion here? I know you've got a Marantz receiver in your setup.


EDIT: found a post where AJ says he doesn't use ARC, curious about running HDMI sources through the receiver though. I've got an XBox One (not the S), a TiVo Roamio (maxes at 1080p, TV sources are 1080i obviously), Roku Ultra (not setup yet, but will do 4K), Sony Blu-Ray (old, not UHD).
 

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How's Your Set For DSE

Hi everyone,

I've had my set for about 3 weeks now and am for the most part pretty happy with it however, I was watching the US vs Canada World Junior Championships hockey game in 4K the other day and noticed that the DSE on my set was quite distracting. It's also quite noticeable in regular 1080i hockey broadcasts and any other content where the camera pans horizontally (HGTV is particularly bad).

Are any others experiencing this with their sets? Do you think that any DSE on a set in this price range and what was a flagship model, is acceptable at all?

Uniformity on solid color images is also poor. As an example, the HGTV splash screen is one color of grey on my other sets but on the 940d it is quite blotchy.

I have requested an exchange but my dealer hasn't got back to me yet. I'm concerned that the exchange set will be worse or have some other problems like the smearing some are reporting.

Any comments or suggestions?

Thanks,

Daren

Any
 

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I've had my set for about 3 weeks now and am for the most part pretty happy with it however, I was watching the US vs Canada World Junior Championships hockey game in 4K the other day and noticed that the DSE on my set was quite distracting. It's also quite noticeable in regular 1080i hockey broadcasts and any other content where the camera pans horizontally (HGTV is particularly bad).
Yeah, I've been trying to put my finger on what I've been seeing and this is it. I've got some vertical banding. The following video was a good test:

:-/
 

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Are there any disadvantages to switching from ARC to running an optical cable out to the receiver? Any sync issues? Do you run all of your HDMI inputs through the receiver, or direct to the TV?

Which brings up my my next question, is it better run all inputs through the receiver and then only run one HDMI to the TV, or are we better off running each input directly to the TV? One advantage to going direct would be to have different picture settings for each input, without having to swap back and forth.

I have the Marantz SR7010, so it's a good receiver. @AustinJerry, what's your suggestion here? I know you've got a Marantz receiver in your setup.


EDIT: found a post where AJ says he doesn't use ARC, curious about running HDMI sources through the receiver though. I've got an XBox One (not the S), a TiVo Roamio (maxes at 1080p, TV sources are 1080i obviously), Roku Ultra (not setup yet, but will do 4K), Sony Blu-Ray (old, not UHD).
I've not noticed any sync issues with the optical connection.

On all inputs into Avr, that's my only option because all my equipment is in a separate media closet in a different room. I have a ~40ft HDMI cable (celerity optical) from my Avr to the tv running in wall. Also ran a second monoprice rated for 18gbps. I use the celerity. I've used both a marantz sr6010 and a Denon x4200w and found both to work fine. 4k HDR passes through fine etc. I have the samsung UHD player, an Nvidia shield, a Roku ultra and my U-verse box. None of the 4k sources have issues and I've tested proper HDR signal getting through all of them (Samsung, Nvidia and Roku) to the tv. I turn off all video processing in the Avr so I never see the Avr volume overlay. You are correct that I cannot calibrate sources individually for each input, but given my room setup, that's not really an option for me.
 

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Are there any disadvantages to switching from ARC to running an optical cable out to the receiver? Any sync issues? Do you run all of your HDMI inputs through the receiver, or direct to the TV?

Which brings up my my next question, is it better run all inputs through the receiver and then only run one HDMI to the TV, or are we better off running each input directly to the TV? One advantage to going direct would be to have different picture settings for each input, without having to swap back and forth.

I have the Marantz SR7010, so it's a good receiver. @AustinJerry, what's your suggestion here? I know you've got a Marantz receiver in your setup.


EDIT: found a post where AJ says he doesn't use ARC, curious about running HDMI sources through the receiver though. I've got an XBox One (not the S), a TiVo Roamio (maxes at 1080p, TV sources are 1080i obviously), Roku Ultra (not setup yet, but will do 4K), Sony Blu-Ray (old, not UHD).
The only disadvantage is that arc can do DD+ which means it can do Atmos. Apparently toslink cannot. Also, I cannot recall if anyone has verified that the 940D can do DD+ over arc. All sets cannot do it. If the 940D cannot, then there is literally no advantage other than cabling. In my case since I can do 4k HDR with Atmos/DD+ over HDMI via my Nvidia shield or Roku boxes, I don't really care about the TV apps.
 

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I've not noticed any sync issues with the optical connection.

On all inputs into Avr, that's my only option because all my equipment is in a separate media closet in a different room. I have a ~40ft HDMI cable (celerity optical) from my Avr to the tv running in wall. Also ran a second monoprice rated for 18gbps. I use the celerity. I've used both a marantz sr6010 and a Denon x4200w and found both to work fine. 4k HDR passes through fine etc. I have the samsung UHD player, an Nvidia shield, a Roku ultra and my U-verse box. None of the 4k sources have issues and I've tested proper HDR signal getting through all of them (Samsung, Nvidia and Roku) to the tv. I turn off all video processing in the Avr so I never see the Avr volume overlay. You are correct that I cannot calibrate sources individually for each input, but given my room setup, that's not really an option for me.
Thanks! Did you set the HDMI port that you're using to "Enhanced" on the 940D?

For Video/Output Settings on the Marantz I'm using:
Video Mode - Auto
Video Conversion - On (my understanding is this just converts non-HDMI sources to HDMI before passing the signal to the TV, no additional processing)
i/p Scaler - Off (this one would handle upscaling, but I'm letting the TV do that)
 

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Yeah, I've been trying to put my finger on what I've been seeing and this is it. I've got some vertical banding. The following video was a good test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRGUkxrwdeU

:-/
Maybe my OCD is getting the best of me and I'm just overly sensitive to it but for what us poor bastards in Canada have to pay for these things I expect perfection otherwise I would have just picked up a Costco model and called it a day.

Can't deceide if I should exchange for the 65 inch LG OLED or try to tolerate the DSE on this set? Ten inches is a big loss of real estate :(
 

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Thanks! Did you set the HDMI port that you're using to "Enhanced" on the 940D?

For Video/Output Settings on the Marantz I'm using:
Video Mode - Auto
Video Conversion - On (my understanding is this just converts non-HDMI sources to HDMI before passing the signal to the TV, no additional processing)
i/p Scaler - Off (this one would handle upscaling, but I'm letting the TV do that)
Yes, port is set to enhanced on the tv. On Avr settings, I cannot recall mine, but if you're seeing the volume control overlay, then likely the Avr is doing some processing.
 

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Are there any disadvantages to switching from ARC to running an optical cable out to the receiver? Any sync issues? Do you run all of your HDMI inputs through the receiver, or direct to the TV?

Which brings up my my next question, is it better run all inputs through the receiver and then only run one HDMI to the TV, or are we better off running each input directly to the TV? One advantage to going direct would be to have different picture settings for each input, without having to swap back and forth.

I have the Marantz SR7010, so it's a good receiver. @AustinJerry, what's your suggestion here? I know you've got a Marantz receiver in your setup.


EDIT: found a post where AJ says he doesn't use ARC, curious about running HDMI sources through the receiver though. I've got an XBox One (not the S), a TiVo Roamio (maxes at 1080p, TV sources are 1080i obviously), Roku Ultra (not setup yet, but will do 4K), Sony Blu-Ray (old, not UHD).
The only disadvantage is that arc can do DD+ which means it can do Atmos. Apparently toslink cannot. Also, I cannot recall if anyone has verified that the 940D can do DD+ over arc. All sets cannot do it. If the 940D cannot, then there is literally no advantage other than cabling. In my case since I can do 4k HDR with Atmos/DD+ over HDMI via my Nvidia shield or Roku boxes, I don't really care about the TV apps.
I run all inputs into my Marantz 8802A, and then on to the TV. This way, I get the Marantz on-screen display on the TV, which is important to me, plus completely automated HDMI switching. Besides, I have a total of five HDMI sources (two DirecTV DVR's, Apple TV, Sony Media Plyer, and Oppo 203), so one more source than inputs on the TV.

I do not use ARC and find Toslink completely functional, including passing DD+. @salavs, when running sources through the AVR, Atmos is not a consideration. AFAIK, none of the native TV apps support Atmos, and any Atmos signals coming from the other sources go directly to the AVR.
 

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I run all inputs into my Marantz 8802A, and then on to the TV. This way, I get the Marantz on-screen display on the TV, which is important to me, plus completely automated HDMI switching. Besides, I have a total of five HDMI sources (two DirecTV DVR's, Apple TV, Sony Media Plyer, and Oppo 203), so one more source than inputs on the TV.
Thanks, so when you say you run 2 HDMI cables from your AVR to the TV (in that other post), are you just "Monitor 1" and "Monitor 2" on the Marantz to do that? I could, in theory, do the same thing. Run my 4K Roku through Monitor 2 and have everything else go through Monitor 1. Granted, if there's no big deal running everything (even 1080) sources through an "enhanced" port (as @salavs does), it may not matter.
 

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Maybe my OCD is getting the best of me and I'm just overly sensitive to it but for what us poor bastards in Canada have to pay for these things I expect perfection otherwise I would have just picked up a Costco model and called it a day.

Can't deceide if I should exchange for the 65 inch LG OLED or try to tolerate the DSE on this set? Ten inches is a big loss of real estate :(
Out of 4 panels only one didn't have DSE. The one i have now has it but only noticed during ANY degree of a viewing angle thats not straight forward.

If i could combine my panel now that has minimal smearing and the panel that had no dse, that would be great- you know like what you would expect to get from a 4,000 tv. Quality control sucks from sony, customer service is worse. But if you get lucky or look past the issues, they sure do make a nice picture.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Hi brickyardz,

I tried to reply to your PM but apparently I need 15 posts before I can swim with the top feeding fish.

This post will put me at 14. Almost there.

To answer your question, yes, I have requested a replacement for another 940d and also a price for the 75ZD9 however I suspect it will cost as much as a new car here in Canada. My dealers Sony rep is at CES until Tuesday and will hopefully get some answers then.

Sad thing is that LCD/LED technology will likely be obsolete in a couple years and 75 inch OLEDs will be selling for what we're paying for these LCDs now.

Good luck in your quest for a problem free set.
 

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I run all inputs into my Marantz 8802A, and then on to the TV. This way, I get the Marantz on-screen display on the TV, which is important to me, plus completely automated HDMI switching. Besides, I have a total of five HDMI sources (two DirecTV DVR's, Apple TV, Sony Media Plyer, and Oppo 203), so one more source than inputs on the TV.

I do not use ARC and find Toslink completely functional, including passing DD+. @salavs, when running sources through the AVR, Atmos is not a consideration. AFAIK, none of the native TV apps support Atmos, and any Atmos signals coming from the other sources go directly to the AVR.
Austin, can you recommend a Toslink cable? Thanks.
 

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@salavs, when running sources through the AVR, Atmos is not a consideration. AFAIK, none of the native TV apps support Atmos, and any Atmos signals coming from the other sources go directly to the AVR.
Yup, that's exactly what I was trying to say as well, that tv/arc/toslink support of various audio codecs is not relevant for me because my Avr processes them and not the tv (since I route everything through Avr).

Do you have a confirmed example of a TV app and a source within that app which is DD+ encoded and which I can verify is being passed back to my Avr as DD+ via optical/toslink? This is the one bit which (imho) is not 100% confirmed and would be good to record explicitly if you have an example.
 

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Austin, can you recommend a Toslink cable? Thanks.
I typically buy Monoprice cables. I believe my optical cable is 20'. I'm not sure there is a lot of difference in optical cables.
 
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