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It did solve the problem for some people, but you could have a bad HDMI port too... Have you tried other ports with your Roku? Unless you know you have 60Hz content to watch almost all streaming content is 24Hz anyway and doesn't need 60Hz to play right.
Yes I have tried other ports

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Does anyone know if Dolby Vision takes control of the backlight in the same way HDR10 does?

For HDR10 content if I leave backlight at 50, I can see it bump up to max brightness as soon as it starts playing. Just wandering if Dolby Vision does the same or if I should max the backlight out manually.

*Edit*

After posting this. I tried moving the backlight up and down while Dolby Vision content was playing and it did seem to get a bit brighter when I moved up the slider. However, the image also seem to have less contrast and lose detail in some areas.

Dont know which one is "correct." There is a ton of conflicting information about HDR and backlight settings all over the internet. Some sources say that the meta data takes control of it and to just leave it alone. Others say that you have to manually bump it up. It's very confusing.
Dolby vision takes control. The backlight pretty much only effects the mid tones. You should leave that at the factory setting.

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@sonoftumble your settings look great! I didnt see your edit to change the gama to 2.1 so will do that tonight. I had been rocking the Calibrated Dark for the most part and turned off some of the junk settings when watching 1080p/4k programming and I thought it looked pretty good. Now that i have used your settings I can tell a big difference and it seems more life like if that makes sense. Thanks for taking the time to do this for us.
 

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@NCNick fwiw I also started out with the same Amazon cables you have. I tossed them and got the monos like i said in my post last night. Try this Roku trick and see if it helps you out.

Secret menu option to turn on 4:2:0 10 bit or 4:2:2 12 bit for HDR

HOME HOME HOME HOME HOME DOWN LEFT UP UP UP then just press the select button to change the option.
 

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I'm having trouble upgrading my firmware from 3.0.13.5. After my repair, I got a new mainboard with what looks like a really old serial number (02xxxx)? It was on some 2.x firmware and would not upgrade to 3.x, so I upgraded manually using a flash drive to 3.0.13.5 to see if that would help. Now the TV is not upgrading to 3.0.14.0 or to the latest beta (I've asked to be put in the beta list over 3 days ago).

I've already tried "Service Check" + turn off for 30 minutes as well as a factory reset and going through the setup menus.

Anyone have any other ideas?
 

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@NCNick fwiw I also started out with the same Amazon cables you have. I tossed them and got the monos like i said in my post last night. Try this Roku trick and see if it helps you out.

Secret menu option to turn on 4:2:0 10 bit or 4:2:2 12 bit for HDR

HOME HOME HOME HOME HOME DOWN LEFT UP UP UP then just press the select button to change the option.
Yeah I had tried the secret menu a couple weeks ago and it seemed to help for a day but the problem returned so didn't really end up helping. I have since factory restored my roku so I might need to recheck what I'm set to in general with all the other changes I've made and the new cable and see if the combination of changes helps.
 
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Does anyone know if Dolby Vision takes control of the backlight in the same way HDR10 does?

For HDR10 content if I leave backlight at 50, I can see it bump up to max brightness as soon as it starts playing. Just wandering if Dolby Vision does the same or if I should max the backlight out manually.

*Edit*

After posting this. I tried moving the backlight up and down while Dolby Vision content was playing and it did seem to get a bit brighter when I moved up the slider. However, the image also seem to have less contrast and lose detail in some areas.

Dont know which one is "correct." There is a ton of conflicting information about HDR and backlight settings all over the internet. Some sources say that the meta data takes control of it and to just leave it alone. Others say that you have to manually bump it up. It's very confusing.
Dolby vision takes control. The backlight pretty much only effects the mid tones. You should leave that at the factory setting.

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
That would explain why it appeared to lose contrast. Thank you.
 

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Has anyone else had significant issues with picture quality after the recent beta firmware, especially with the calibrated settings?

I did an update with no issues, and then did a factory reset to fix some connectivity problems. Since then the picture has much more faded, washed out look and lacks the blacks and details. I put on a blu ray, Patriots Day, for example and tried to set up my own picture settings again after the reset. I selected calibrated as a baseline and noticed the picture was very washed out. Blacks and absent, there is little detail, and the image looks faded. People have a blotchy, almost plastic look in some instances.

I switched to calibrated dark, and it's more of the same. The other presets seem to look ok, but I can't really tell if there's an issue since I hardly ever used them.

Does anyone have any thoughts? Could the beta firmware be sent to me again to give it another try, or should I try something else? I tried factory reset a few times and the results were the same. I tried to cast some material, even UHD quality and thrbimage has the same washed out, faded appearance. Thanks!
Check your Color Space setting and make sure it is set to "YCbCr" or "Auto", and NOT "RGB". Also, make sure that Active LED Zones is toggled to "On". I experienced the same issue last week - even with 3.0.14.0 - and thought that something was wrong with my TV's FALD function. I noticed that the backlight was on all the time - slightly illuminated. Watching a movie in a dark room - playing content with letter boxes - with Active LED Zones turned On - it looked like my M70 had morphed into an edge lit POS. Of course this made everything look washed out - not just the dark areas - but also with brighter content. I changed the Color Space to "YCbCr" instead of "RGB" and everything was better. I'm not seeing any issues with 3.2.8.3 using my most recent calibration settings.
 

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I'm having trouble upgrading my firmware from 3.0.13.5. After my repair, I got a new mainboard with what looks like a really old serial number (02xxxx)? It was on some 2.x firmware and would not upgrade to 3.x, so I upgraded manually using a flash drive to 3.0.13.5 to see if that would help. Now the TV is not upgrading to 3.0.14.0 or to the latest beta (I've asked to be put in the beta list over 3 days ago).

I've already tried "Service Check" + turn off for 30 minutes as well as a factory reset and going through the setup menus.

Anyone have any other ideas?
Try a "hard reset", by unplugging from ac power and pressing and holding the power on/off button in back the unit for 30 secs. If you end up calling Vizio tech support about this issue, they will probably have you do the same thing. It's certainly strange that you can't get to .14 If that doesn't work, I suggest calling Vizio.
 

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Does anyone know if Dolby Vision takes control of the backlight in the same way HDR10 does?
Dolby vision takes control. The backlight pretty much only effects the mid tones. You should leave that at the factory setting.
One thing I have noticed is that if you are using a custom picture mode - meaning you took a factory mode, changed settings, and then saved it with a custom name - Dolby Vision (DV) does not automatically change the backlight setting as is does with the factory modes. The color tuner and 11 point still get zeroed out, but the backlight setting doesn't change. DV sets the backlight to 100 automatically when using a factory pic mode, so I will set the backlight to around 80 min to 100 with my custom mode. This would also approximate the behavior with the factory modes anyway.
 

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One thing I have noticed is that if you are using a custom picture mode - meaning you took a factory mode, changed settings, and then saved it with a custom name - Dolby Vision (DV) does not automatically change the backlight setting as is does with the factory modes. The color tuner and 11 point still get zeroed out, but the backlight setting doesn't change. DV sets the backlight to 100 automatically when using a factory pic mode, so I will set the backlight to around 80 min to 100 with my custom mode. This would also approximate the behavior with the factory modes anyway.
Can you do a separate calibration for the color tuner and 11 point scale when HDR10 or DV source is playing?

I have your settings saved but I'm wondering if I should just revert back to Calibrated Dark when I watch a DV/HDR show.
 

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@sonoftumble your settings look great! I didnt see your edit to change the gama to 2.1 so will do that tonight. I had been rocking the Calibrated Dark for the most part and turned off some of the junk settings when watching 1080p/4k programming and I thought it looked pretty good. Now that i have used your settings I can tell a big difference and it seems more life like if that makes sense. Thanks for taking the time to do this for us.
Thank you for the feedback. I'm really glad that you like them. That's probably a good indicator that your panel's color profile is similar to mine.

For me, a good indicator as to whether I'm happy with a particular calibration is when I fire up the TV the next day, and still like it. That's why I had 4 revs with the .14 FW. Rev 4 finally nailed it, but not as good as this new one.

In the case of this new FW ( 3.2.8.3 ) calibration, when I fired up my set this morning, not only did I like the PQ, but I LOVED the PQ. I totally know what you mean by "more lifelike". It starts with really natural flesh tones, and then there's the "real world" color pop, even with non-DV content.

I think this will be a good cal until there's a new beta. :D
 

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Yes I have tried other ports
I have the Premiere+ also and 0 issues so I'm not sure what to tell you.. other than you have confirmed in the "secret" menu that you are set for 4:2:0? On ports 2-4, the Roku should connect at 24 or 30Hz lowering the bandwidth significantly, so maybe it's the Roku? I have no problems with the Roku or Shield on HDMI 1 at the full 60Hz.
 

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Thank you for the feedback. I'm really glad that you like them. That's probably a good indicator that your panel's color profile is similar to mine.

For me, a good indicator as to whether I'm happy with a particular calibration is when I fire up the TV the next day, and still like it. That's why I had 4 revs with the .14 FW. Rev 4 finally nailed it, but not as good as this new one.

In the case of this new FW ( 3.2.8.3 ) calibration, when I fired up my set this morning, not only did I like the PQ, but I LOVED the PQ. I totally know what you mean by "more lifelike". It starts with really natural flesh tones, and then there's the "real world" color pop, even with non-DV content.

I think this will be a good cal until there's a new beta. :D
I tried your settings and I ended up resetting Color Profile or whatever those extra settings are called back to default. I run 50,51,50,46, Normal, 2.1 and the key here: Tint at -3 (the rest are personal preference, I use Reduce Judder at 3 unless it's the rare actual 60Hz content). This for pre-scaled to 1080p Xfinity X1 anyway, I'll have to check my Shield settings later. Anyway for me it looks spectacular, that one tint setting made everything look great... But thanks for all your time in calibrating and posting, it helped me indirectly anyway! :)
 

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Can you do a separate calibration for the color tuner and 11 point scale when HDR10 or DV source is playing?

I have your settings saved but I'm wondering if I should just revert back to Calibrated Dark when I watch a DV/HDR show.
I would use one custom picture mode for all non-HDR content, and create a second custom pic mode for DV/HDR. That way you don't have to change the backlight setting every time DV gets triggered. Not sure about HDR10, but DV zero's out all the Color Tuner settings and there is no 11 point option. The only thing you have control over is the backlight and other basic settings. You can change the Color Tuner settings while watching DV content, and they seem to stick. I haven't tried my new calibration settings in the color tuner when DV is triggered. I have received feedback from other testers that the factory DV color tuner settings are preferable to my calibration settings; but that was with the .14 settings. Keep in mind that Dolby and Vizio have worked very closely to "calibrate" using a "Golden Reference" data file based on the general performance profile of the M series panels.

Personally, I think that DV looks great with the factory settings. I will try putting in the settings into the color tuner and take a look. However without a DV pattern generator, I cannot verify if those settings are color accurate when playing DV content.

At some point in the next week or so, I going to do a calibration with DV, but I need that "Golden Reference" metadata file in order to pull it off.

If you decide to try those color tuner settings with DV triggered, let me know how you think they look.
 

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I have the Premiere+ also and 0 issues so I'm not sure what to tell you.. other than you have confirmed in the "secret" menu that you are set for 4:2:0? On ports 2-4, the Roku should connect at 24 or 30Hz lowering the bandwidth significantly, so maybe it's the Roku? I have no problems with the Roku or Shield on HDMI 1 at the full 60Hz.
What firmware are you on?

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@danbfree
I'd say all of those settings are personal preference, especially Color @ 46 and Tint @ -3.
Absolutely everything is personal preference, obviously, but to clarify, Tint at -3 is an excellent alternative to trying to dial in all those Color Scale/11 pt. numbers. For my panel, anyway, it's absolutely off otherwise so just a suggestion for others to try... Is that specific enough? :)

Edit: Also, color at 46 is just most 1080p content, sometimes I go higher up to 50 for some 1080p content and even higher than that, up to 60 sometimes for 4k/HDR sources.
 

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What firmware are you on?
3.2.8.3 Beta, but the Tint setting especially has not changed it's need for -3 for me, over any firmware, as an excellent alternative to having a full color scale/11 pt. on my panel... Just a suggestion for others to try, every panel can be a little different.
 

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Try a "hard reset", by unplugging from ac power and pressing and holding the power on/off button in back the unit for 30 secs. If you end up calling Vizio tech support about this issue, they will probably have you do the same thing. It's certainly strange that you can't get to .14 If that doesn't work, I suggest calling Vizio.
I'll give that a shot. Thanks.
 
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