AVS Forum banner

7401 - 7420 of 10315 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,407 Posts
Well I hope nothing is, or was, wrong with it, lol.

I had a tech replace two boards inside, and things seem to be better than before.

I have noticed some anomalies and wondering what everyone's thoughts are.

I keyed in your settings and things look great, however, in certain scenes I have noticed some severe macro blocking, almost pixelation, of certain scenes. This seems to happen when there are yellows, or brightness. And it seems to happen when using the warm color temp setting.

I have attached two images to see, from the movie 13 Hours on blu ray.

I am using all of your settings, and in the first image i use Normal color temp. In the second I use Cool.

You can see that with Normal, the areas around the fires look blown out and pixelated, and then in Cool they smooth out and do not show any issues.

Has anyone else noticed this behavior? I had a similar issue before, and ended up having to have two boards replaced inside. This issue doesn't seem as significant as before, but it's noticeable.

Anyone have any thoughts on This?

I apologize that the images are upside down, I was unable to fix it on my phone.
I read about this in the 2016 P series calibration thread. It seems that anytime you change the Yellow brightness or saturation in the color tuner, you would see block pixilation in areas where there was yellow. All you had to do is bump it up by 1. :eek:

I noticed this with some of my earlier calibrations, but have not noticed with Rev 4.5 - at least on my set. Remember, that when you change the color temp, the TV loads a separate CMS table for that temp; and zeros out any settings that you inputted to the color tuner and 11 point. That is why the anomaly goes away. When you return to the normal temp, the TV reloads that CMS table with the settings, and the anomaly returns.

When I look at the Rev 4.5 settings, I made very slight adjustments to yellow in the Color tuner for Brightness and Saturation, basically bumping yellow about 5%. The variances between our panels might be why you see a yellow bias in some things whereas I do not; and the meter would have pointed that out to me during the calibration workflow. When I ran the saturation sweeps, yellow only needed a little help. Maybe on your set, it's already running a little hot.

TRY THIS and let me know: With the color temp set to "normal", go into the color tuner and set yellow to zero for both Brightness and Saturation. Yellow hue is already at zero. Replay that example scene again and let's see if the setting change cleared it up.:confused:

EDIT: Keep all the other settings for Rev 4.5 the same - just changing yellow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,407 Posts
Also, when I switch between picture presets (calibrated, dark, etc.) There seems to be a series of subtle shifts as the preset transitions. Now, when the Color tuner is left at default, this shift is almost immediate, however, when I make 11 point and Color Tuner adjustments there shift between PMs takes a moment or two.

Does this make sense, and does anyone know what this could be?

Thanks
I think I may have sort or answered this, but when you have actual settings in the color tuner and 11 point - not just zeros - the TV loads and then computes those settings. You can see its little brain figuring out things as it reads the CMS tables. Hence the subtle shifts you noticed. Totally normal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,407 Posts
Thanks for the rec., I'll get The Martian too. I figured PE2 would be drop dead gorgeous, eye candy. That bouncing logo drives me crazy. On my HR44 I'm watching TV and it just starts. The 44 on Tuesday night, around 8pm PAC, will need to change the channel if I want to record the programmed next event. Ahem, how many tuners do you have?? I have to let it turn then turn back to what I'm watching. It also changes to some none existent channel in the multi-thousands and it's hard to get it back to a normal channel. The mini just does the bouncing logo for no reason. Sigh.
Well, the 54 will be different and I'll see if the problems leave with the 44.
Looking forward to Wednesday and Thursday. Thanks!
We're practically neighbors!

Make sure to tell the DTV tech about the screen saver issue. It might just be a setting on the box(es). Try turning Power Saving to "OFF": Menu/Settings/Power Saving. The boxes use very little electricity, so if you turn off Power Saving, you won't notice on your electric bill.

My dish has 8 tuners, but only 5 at a time are available for DVR recording. I'm glad you're getting rid of the 44. I think it might be possessed!! :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,901 Posts
We're practically neighbors!

Make sure to tell the DTV tech about the screen saver issue. It might just be a setting on the box(es). Try turning Power Saving to "OFF": Menu/Settings/Power Saving. The boxes use very little electricity, so if you turn off Power Saving, you won't notice on your electric bill.

My dish has 8 tuners, but only 5 at a time are available for DVR recording. I'm glad you're getting rid of the 44. I think it might be possessed!! :D
I've gone through all the settings. It sometimes happens on my HR22 also, the bouncing logo. It's annoying. I'm thinking my home is possessed. The channel changing is only the 44, it has all three episodes of Sharknado and I still haven't seen them. What will I do??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
148 Posts
Great to hear. I was beginning to wonder if there was something wrong with your TV. ;)

To answer your question, I use the settings for all SDR content, including 4K. In fact I don't make any changes as these setting seem to have good "padding" between the extremes. HDR is another story. HDR makes the TV go into certain "special" modes ( HDR-10 or DV ), and the CMS loads separate tables for those modes and zeros out the SDR settings. I need to do a calibration for HDR, or at least DV. Coming soon.
When going into HDR, do the new tables only load for 11pt settings? With the old firmware all my basic settings would switch over to HDR specific ones. Now all my basic settings (brightness, contrast, color) all stay the same whether HDR or SDR is playing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,869 Posts
@Brink Bodin


On my M series, Color and Backlight switch between modes, tint and gamma don't. I always have Contrast and Brightness at 50, so I don't know if those change or not, but as always, on Vizio TVs/displays, those are usually spot on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
I read about this in the 2016 P series calibration thread. It seems that anytime you change the Yellow brightness or saturation in the color tuner, you would see block pixilation in areas where there was yellow. All you had to do is bump it up by 1. :eek:

I noticed this with some of my earlier calibrations, but have not noticed with Rev 4.5 - at least on my set. Remember, that when you change the color temp, the TV loads a separate CMS table for that temp; and zeros out any settings that you inputted to the color tuner and 11 point. That is why the anomaly goes away. When you return to the normal temp, the TV reloads that CMS table with the settings, and the anomaly returns.

When I look at the Rev 4.5 settings, I made very slight adjustments to yellow in the Color tuner for Brightness and Saturation, basically bumping yellow about 5%. The variances between our panels might be why you see a yellow bias in some things whereas I do not; and the meter would have pointed that out to me during the calibration workflow. When I ran the saturation sweeps, yellow only needed a little help. Maybe on your set, it's already running a little hot.

TRY THIS and let me know: With the color temp set to "normal", go into the color tuner and set yellow to zero for both Brightness and Saturation. Yellow hue is already at zero. Replay that example scene again and let's see if the setting change cleared it up.:confused:

EDIT: Keep all the other settings for Rev 4.5 the same - just changing yellow.
Thanks, @sonoftumble I had a suspicion that it could be linked to that.

I will give it a try and see if its linked to the Yellow in Brightness and Saturation. I am surprised it would impact the picture quality this much; I had read that there were still some 11 point related issues with the recent firmware, both beta and the wide release. I wonder when what the scope of the issues were and if they might be fixed.

UPDATE: Well, that fixed i. I bumped up the Yellow values for Brightness and Saturation and once they hit '5' there was a noticeable difference in the quality; blockiness appeared and immediately impacted the quality.

I set it back down to 0 for Brightness and Saturation and things looked good again.
@sonoftumble , will the Yellow set to '0' for these drastically impact the the Color Tuner settings and the overall picture?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,407 Posts
When going into HDR, do the new tables only load for 11pt settings? With the old firmware all my basic settings would switch over to HDR specific ones. Now all my basic settings (brightness, contrast, color) all stay the same whether HDR or SDR is playing.
Basic settings with custom picture modes are not as impacted by HDR as some of the factory PM's. When a factory mode gets an asterisk next to its name, it is now officially custom. Best thing to do at that point is to save it with its own name which will "free up" the factory mode and remove the asterisk. When HDR is triggered, the TV still loads a specific CMS table for that HDR mode ( two tables - DV or HDR-10 ), and will effect both the color tuner and 11 point. I believe that it's the same as before 3.2.8.3.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,407 Posts
UPDATE: Well, that fixed it. I bumped up the Yellow values for Brightness and Saturation and once they hit '5' there was a noticeable difference in the quality; blockiness appeared and immediately impacted the quality. I set it back down to 0 for Brightness and Saturation and things looked good again.

Will the Yellow set to '0' for these drastically impact the the Color Tuner settings and the overall picture?
Glad to hear that the adjustment did the trick! :) It shouldn't have much of an impact at all. In fact it might take that yellow edge off that you had noticed. In the Saturation Sweeps segment of the calibration, yellow was tracking pretty close with my panel. I did just a minor tweak. Keep in mind that the range is from -50 to +50, so +5 is relatively small. My suspicion is that yellow runs a little hotter with your panel, so dialing it down to get rid of the artifacts may actually improve things overall.

Watch a variety of content and let me know if things look better to you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
UPDATE: Well, that fixed it. I bumped up the Yellow values for Brightness and Saturation and once they hit '5' there was a noticeable difference in the quality; blockiness appeared and immediately impacted the quality. I set it back down to 0 for Brightness and Saturation and things looked good again.

Will the Yellow set to '0' for these drastically impact the the Color Tuner settings and the overall picture?
Glad to hear that the adjustment did the trick!
It shouldn't have much of an impact at all. In fact it might take that yellow edge off that you had noticed. In the Saturation Sweeps segment of the calibration, yellow was tracking pretty close with my panel. I did just a minor tweak. Keep in mind that the range is from -50 to +50, so +5 is relatively small. My suspicion is that yellow runs a little hotter with your panel, so dialing it down to get rid of the artifacts may actually improve things overall.

Watch a variety of content and let me know if things look better to you.
Great, will do!

One other question. I saw that Sharpness is at 2 for low quality content, such as cable, 1080i, etc.

What do you set it at for other content, such as blu ray, HDR, streaming, etc. Do you keep it at 2, or adjust accordingly?

Thanks! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,407 Posts
Great, will do!

One other question. I saw that Sharpness is at 2 for low quality content, such as cable, 1080i, etc.

What do you set it at for other content, such as blu ray, HDR, streaming, etc. Do you keep it at 2, or adjust accordingly?

Thanks! :)
Keep it at 2. No need to change based on content. At that level, it's barely doing anything. Blu-ray, 4K, HDR, etc. will not look any different.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Since the last update, all my CEC related issues have been resolved. The display no longer wakes up devices that are on other inputs when it is powered on, and my Nvidia Shield can finally power off the display.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
148 Posts
I'll keep my fingers crossed. Thank you for taking the time for the sake of science! :D
Just plugged in your latest settings. They look pretty damn nice. Gonna keep them for a while. I had just assumed after trying one of your previous versions that our panels were just too different. Glad I gave them another chance. I appreciate your work on these, and for convincing my to give them another try.

Now I'm looking forward to what you come up with for HDR! 👍👍
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Sort of, but not exactly. While a Google Cast device (like this tv) CAN mirror the screen of a phone/tablet, that's not what is usually happening.

When you Cast, the content is not going from the internet to the phone/tablet, and then from there to the display/Google Cast device. That would be detrimental to the battery life of the phone, and would allow the phone to be a bottleneck. Instead, the phone directs the stream, whether it's Netflix, Youtube, Vudu, whatever, directly to the Google Cast device. The phone is simply dictating which content the Cast device gets directly from the internet/service. In other words, when you Cast a netflix movie, the movie is not going to your phone/tablet at all. It is going directly from the source (Netflix) to the Cast device (the Vizio, in this case). The phone can pause/play/seek from the side. It is a brilliant concept and it works very well.
I've recently started using my laptop to cast and it works just fine, the same as the tablet. I also have home movies and other content on my laptop that I'd like to cast, so I'd like to be able to mirror. When I go to display settings and try to cast a mirror image to the Vizio, the laptop says it can't "find" the wireless display. Why is it that it can find it just fine for casting internet content but can't find it when I want the Vizio to be a mirror of my laptop?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,407 Posts
Can somebody post a new calibration setting for the new firmware on the m60 please :)
Your are welcome to try mine. They are for an M70-D3. They should look good on your set. I know there are specific M60 calibrations out there, but I don't think there are any for FW 3.2.8.3. Your panel is an IPS type, but it shouldn't really matter. The general consensus is a thumbs up from members in this thread who have tried them. These are meter based using CalMan. Be sure to input all the settings as they are all interrelated to each other.

----------------------------------------------

NOTES: Getting the two point Grey Scale ( 30%, 80% ) as close to perfect as possible causes a ton of positive behaviors from the TV throughout the rest of the ISF workflow. Once those two adjustments are set, the 100% white ( Reference White ) only needed blue adjustments, and small red and green tinkering; also minor adjustments to 60% and 90%, with all zeros across all the other levels with
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Your are welcome to try mine. They are for an M70-D3. They should look good on your set. I know there are specific M60 calibrations out there, but I don't think there are any for FW 3.2.8.3. Your panel is an IPS type, but it shouldn't really matter. The general consensus is a thumbs up from members in this thread who have tried them. These are meter based using CalMan. Be sure to input all the settings as they are all interrelated to each other.

----------------------------------------------

NOTES: Getting the two point Grey Scale ( 30%, 80% ) as close to perfect as possible causes a ton of positive behaviors from the TV throughout the rest of the ISF workflow. Once those two adjustments are set, the 100% white ( Reference White ) only needed blue adjustments, and small red and green tinkering; also minor adjustments to 60% and 90%, with all zeros across all the other levels with
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Sorry if this has been answered, I looked but couldn't find anything. I have a m70 with a Yamaha yas-106 sound bar. It's connected via HDMI/arc .. Everything works great at first but while casting Netflix if I pause or rewind or change episodes the sound stops working and I have to go into settings and turn the audio off and back on again to get it working again. Problem also occasionally happens on restarting the TV. Are there any solutions besides ditching ARC and getting a Harmony/juggling 2 remotes?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,407 Posts
Are you sure It doesnt matter if i have an ips panel?
Not as sure as death and taxes, but . . . .

The notable differences between an IPS panel and a VA panel is contrast, black uniformity, and viewing angle. Color performance profiles should be similar to each other. Here's a link to a rtings article that goes over the differences: http://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/ips-led-vs-va-lcd

The only sure thing with TV's is that there are panel variances across the series, and even within the same model. However, current manufacturing processes produce a high degree of continuity so that variances in measurements are generally
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,407 Posts
@sonoftumble

I wanted to give you a little feedback on the above settings, as I tried them the other night after I saw my set had already updated to the latest 3.2.8.3 firmware. It immediately hit me that the picture was extremely yellow/warm, which also darkened it from what I have been used to for the past 6 months. I have been using the rtings settings, which use the computer color setting (I think, not at home right now). So I suppose I've just gotten used to a much cooler picture, which may not be entirely accurate?

Anyway, I'm going to give it more time to see if it grows on me. Like most picture setting changes I've been subjected to in the past, it will take awhile to get used to. I prefer an accurate picture, perhaps with a little bit oversaturation on the color, probably due to my minor color-blindness (trouble seeing the "dot" pictures). I really appreciate all of the work you have been doing in fine-tuning the picture settings like this. Kudos!
Don't know if you still evaluating my settings, but another member noticed a similar yellow bias. I had him set yellow to 0 - for both brightness and saturation in the color tuner. Last I heard, all was looking good. Panel variances at work. First world problems. :D
 
7401 - 7420 of 10315 Posts
Top