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Cool thanks, I'll let you know. Got this TV refurbed for 1k, figure it'll hold me over to see what happens in the 75-80" range this year, or maybe early next year. If Vizio makes an 80" P series, sold! Love the LG OLEDs but so pricey for sizes.
Apparently, the only reason Vizio hasn't made an 80" P yet, and why there is no 80" 2017 M, is due to them not being able to find a suitable WCG panel in that size. Got that straight from Matt @ Vizio.
 

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Just picked up the new m55! Let you guys know it is in case anyone is wondering
Cool. Keep us posted on how you like it.
I actually put my M55-C2 up for sale to see if I can get it sold and upgrade to the M55-E0.

I wonder, since the new M series has less zones, WCG and the hardware is different (only 60Hz panels, no HDMI 5 low latency port, no tablet), should we have a new official owners thread or will this thread have the 2017 model added to its title?
I was under the impression that the wide color was only for hdr content??? I'm still learning but seems the colors are far more vivid even with the same settings I had on my m60-d1... I'm playing battlefield and the color green and yellow for sure pop far more then ever before and even without high performance gaming port lag is still really low
 

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I was under the impression that the wide color was only for hdr content??? I'm still learning but seems the colors are far more vivid even with the same settings I had on my m60-d1... I'm playing battlefield and the color green and yellow for sure pop far more then ever before and even without high performance gaming port lag is still really low
While HDR and WCG go hand in hand, HDR's manipulation of contrast and brightness essentially "extends" the highs and lows beyond the range of SDR, which produces more vivid colors and higher contrast, and that "pop" you are referring to. HDR is the real magic. WCG is simply more detailed steps in color ( 1,024 vs. 256 ) that also extend beyond the boundaries of the REC 709 color space. I know that I sound like a broken record when I continue to use examples from "The Martian", but it's really a good reference. The color of Matt Damon's space helmet is a definite deep red, but when you see it within the limits of SDR-REC 709, the orange stripes on his space suit look very similar to the helmet because REC 709 cannot reproduce that shade of red. I attached two pics from a different movie in which you can see the difference in color reproduction. I apologize that they are a bit fuzzy, but you will get the idea. Look for the red dragon. Just an FYI, both TV's are LG OLED'S, and one is being fed an SDR signal, and the other is getting the full 4:4:4 60Hz 13.2Gb HDR-10 WCG signal.
 

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I was under the impression that the wide color was only for hdr content??? I'm still learning but seems the colors are far more vivid even with the same settings I had on my m60-d1... I'm playing battlefield and the color green and yellow for sure pop far more then ever before and even without high performance gaming port lag is still really low
While HDR and WCG go hand in hand, HDR's manipulation of contrast and brightness essentially "extends" the highs and lows beyond the range of SDR, which produces more vivid colors and higher contrast, and that "pop" you are referring to. HDR is the real magic. WCG is simply more detailed steps in color ( 1,024 vs. 256 ) that also extend beyond the boundaries of the REC 709 color space. I know that I sound like a broken record when I continue to use examples from "The Martian", but it's really a good reference. The color of Matt Damon's space helmet is a definite deep red, but when you see it within the limits of SDR-REC 709, the orange stripes on his space suit look very similar to the helmet because REC 709 cannot reproduce that shade of red. I attached two pics from a different movie in which you can see the difference in color reproduction. I apologize that they are a bit fuzzy, but you will get the idea. Look for the red dragon. Just an FYI, both TV's are LG OLED'S, and one is being fed an SDR signal, and the other is getting the full 4:4:4 60Hz 13.2Gb HDR-10 WCG signal.
Thanks for the info on that... btw I meant I noticed colors popping even more on non hdr content.. battlefield looks better then ever and is currently still not an hdr game but I was wondering if the wcg came into play in only hdr content or everything... I guess maybe it just is an overall better picture and has better color then 2016 m maybe... also do you know if on my Xbox I should select 8 bit 10 bit or 12 bit?? Trying to get the best picture possible
 

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@JD4L

The color gamut on the M60-D1 is pretty limited, especially on the green side of things. The wider gamut of the new M series helps it reach deeper levels of green, that actually cover the full REC 709 gamut, and this makes greens and yellows (yellow = green + red) pop more.
Do you still have the M60 or did you swap it for the new M55?
I'm really interested in hearing how HDR content looks on this set compared to the M60-D1. If you have Netflix 4K account, try to watch Miridian, The cosmic laundromat, and some other HDR content and compare between the two sets?
How do the 32 led zones behave compared to the M60-D1's 64?
 

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Thanks for the info on that... btw I meant I noticed colors popping even more on non hdr content.. battlefield looks better then ever and is currently still not an hdr game but I was wondering if the wcg came into play in only hdr content or everything... I guess maybe it just is an overall better picture and has better color then 2016 m maybe... also do you know if on my Xbox I should select 8 bit 10 bit or 12 bit?? Trying to get the best picture possible
Thanks for the clarification. Yes, totally agree - things have more "pop" even with plain-wrap SDR.

My basis of comparison would be my 2014 M702i-B3 vs. the 2016 M70-D3. The M702i is a great TV, but the M70 blows it away when it comes to color, contrast, etc. Color saturation looks better, and there are subtleties which seems to lend a "richness" to everything. The M70 makes ordinary content such as the local news look better. ( never thought I would hear myself saying that ;) )

Now, if you really want to see some true HDR "pop", Cast Netflix and pull up the Dolby Vision version of "Iron Fist". About half way through Ep. 1, there is a nighttime street party/parade. Glow sticks, fireworks, street lights, sparklers, neon signs, bubbles. I think you will be astounded by the colors this TV can produce. :D

A ton of PQ improvements in two years.

EDIT: I just realized that you have a 2017 M. Duh! Don't know if SDR is even better vs. a 2016 M, but HDR should really stand out!
 

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According to Vizio customer support, mirror casting from a wireless device can't be done with the M70-D3. Is this the understanding of the forum?

"CAST uses your router and network connections between devices to communicate with the Home Theater Display. What you are describing is an attempt to directly connect your laptop to the Home Theater Display wirelessly. Your Smartcast Home Theater Display does not support a direct connection that would be needed to do a true screen mirror."
 

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Since you have an M70, you should try my full calibration settings, as they are for my M70. No pressure, but everyday I am blown away by how good my picture looks since doing this calibration. Several other members to this thread have given me very positive feedback. I'm curious how they might look to you.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/2493546-official-2016-vizio-m-series-owner-s-thread-248.html#post53000018
According to the calibration information that I have read the 11 point settings are specific to a particular TV, and can vary depending on the internals and the panel characteristics. So are you saying that your settings are universal to all M70-D3 sets? Just curious.
 

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According to the calibration information that I have read the 11 point settings are specific to a particular TV, and can vary depending on the internals and the panel characteristics. So are you saying that your settings are universal to all M70-D3 sets? Just curious.
No but they look very good. @sonoftumble havent had a chance to tell you but I finally got some time to plug in your latest and greatest and yes they look awesome. This is just watching OTA and some ROKU cable apps. Havent had a chance to test on bluray movies yet.
 

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Does that receiver support HDCP 2.2? If not then I suggest you buy a different model.
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-A660BL-Channel-Network-Receiver/dp/B01EUXG06A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495146254&sr=1-1&keywords=yamaha+rx-a660

I bought this one and I love it.

HDMI 1 is the only port that will give you HDR10. So I would just connect the receiver to HDMI 1 on the tv and then plug everything else in to your receiver.

ARC is basically better sound coming from HDMI. I was using optical cables for my sound and then switched to just using the sound going straight to the receiver and out to HDMI 1 on the TV. The sound is 50x better now. Anything using Dolby Digital anyways..
I run both of my M70-D3's through A/V that is HDMI 2.0a, HDCP 2.2 and ARC enabled. I use the HDMI switching in the A/V as you have described (and the upscaler as well, I think it is superior to the Vizio) and only use the HDMI 1 input on the Vizio. However, in both cases I also us an optical out from the display. I do this because when I cast I do not get sound from the system unless I switch the A/V to the input that the optical cable is using. This makes sense to me, since I also have to change the display to Cast instead of HDMI 1. If I read your post correctly you get all of your sound via ARC. So how are you doing that? If you have to set the display input to Cast and take it off HDMI 1, how do you still get sound via ACR over an inactive input? Or were you only referring to sources that use HDMI 1 on the display? Thanks.
 

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@How Bout That

What's mirror casting?
I was able to cast my tablet's screen to the display without any problems.

@The Coolest

I think what @How Bout That is referring to is "Chromecast Mirroring" a.k.a. "Miracast". As you know, it's bypassing the normal casting data routing to send your mobile display ( phone, tablet, PC or Mac ) direct to the TV. Generally, only specific apps on a computer will support this such as the Chrome browser. Android tablets have it built into the Quick Settings - which is probably what you use. Most use it to "cast" Amazon Prime video to the TV without having a Roku or FireStick(TV). Video quality of the content is not great when you do it that way, but it can come in handy for other tasks. Apple has something similar called "Airplay", but you need an AppleTV to pull it off. However, the Amazon Prime mobile app blocks Airplay so it's back to square one.

Do you know if the Android version of Amazon Prime will allow Miracast to work? Haven't tried it myself, but I suspect it will also be blocked by the app.

Here's a short article which describes the feature: http://www.techhive.com/article/2999070/streaming-hardware/chromecast-mirroring-explained-how-to-beam-your-phone-or-pc-screen-to-the-tv.html
 

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No but they look very good. @sonoftumble havent had a chance to tell you but I finally got some time to plug in your latest and greatest and yes they look awesome. This is just watching OTA and some ROKU cable apps. Havent had a chance to test on bluray movies yet.
Thank you for the great feedback. I haven't felt the need to go back and change anything on my end - the PQ is that amazing. Blu-rays look even better. The better the signal, the better the PQ. Did you catch the typo discussion a couple of pages back? Very simple change - in the Color Tuner - set Yellow Brightness to -1. The typo had +5.
 

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Thank you for the great feedback. I haven't felt the need to go back and change anything on my end - the PQ is that amazing. Blu-rays look even better. The better the signal, the better the PQ. Did you catch the typo discussion a couple of pages back? Very simple change - in the Color Tuner - set Yellow Brightness to -1. The typo had +5.
Yup! Went back and changed it.
 

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Vizio XRT500 Remote

Just picked up Vizio XRT500 remote to go with my Vizio M55-D0 TV, running Firmware 3.2.8.3. The front of the remote works nicely. I am able to access the onscreen menu to change all TV settings (similar to the settings page on Smart Cast App). Play/ Pause works with casting (YouTube, Netflix etc). Forward and Rewind buttons work like Next and Previous respectively.
One big point is that I am able to control Amazon Video within PS4 (attached to HDMI 1 of TV). Other remotes I have tried (e.g. Harmony Elite) will let you scroll through main menu of PS4, but don't work within Amazon Video. This one works perfectly.
The back side of the remote (with alphanmeric pad) is not working at all. I tried changing the names of the inputs using it, but it doesn't update anything. Hopefully once we get the newer Firmware update (with inbuilt apps), the alphanumeric pad will also work.
 

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According to the calibration information that I have read the 11 point settings are specific to a particular TV, and can vary depending on the internals and the panel characteristics. So are you saying that your settings are universal to all M70-D3 sets? Just curious.
My settings should be as close to "universal" as you can get without putting a meter on your specific unit. Of course, there are variances among panels even within the same model.

However, M70-D3 owners have a big advantage over the other models in the series. . . . . During the entire production run, Vizio stuck to the same panel manufacturer, and therefore the video performance characteristics of the M70 panels should be very, very close to one another.

Also very critical is the fact that there is only one DVGR ( Dolby Vision Golden Reference ) file for the M70. This is a special calibration settings file that the TV loads when playing Dolby Vision HDR content; and Dolby Vision very much lives in and controls the 11 point realm to make the magic happen. The other models in the series do not enjoy this continuity, and have several different DVGR files based on when those sets were assembled.

If you try them, I have a high degree of confidence that you will be thrilled with your TV's picture - as I am, and @wmarkw among several others have told me. And they are not all M70 owners. ( M60's don't count - IPS panel )
 

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@The Coolest

I think what @How Bout That is referring to is "Chromecast Mirroring" a.k.a. "Miracast". As you know, it's bypassing the normal casting data routing to send your mobile display ( phone, tablet, PC or Mac ) direct to the TV. Generally, only specific apps on a computer will support this such as the Chrome browser. Android tablets have it built into the Quick Settings - which is probably what you use. Most use it to "cast" Amazon Prime video to the TV without having a Roku or FireStick(TV). Video quality of the content is not great when you do it that way, but it can come in handy for other tasks. Apple has something similar called "Airplay", but you need an AppleTV to pull it off. However, the Amazon Prime mobile app blocks Airplay so it's back to square one.

Do you know if the Android version of Amazon Prime will allow Miracast to work? Haven't tried it myself, but I suspect it will also be blocked by the app.

Here's a short article which describes the feature: http://www.techhive.com/article/2999070/streaming-hardware/chromecast-mirroring-explained-how-to-beam-your-phone-or-pc-screen-to-the-tv.html
What I wanted to do was cast some home videos from the C: drive of my laptop to the Vizio (M70-d3) and wanted to do it without wires. Perhaps there is a workaround if I go out and procure all the gadgetry described above but I think I'll just go back to hard wiring the laptop to the TV like I used to do.
 

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It worked for me, make sure you point its side to the TV, as it's still using IR for those buttons.
Something else must be off. I checked by pointing at my cellphone's camera, and I can see IR is working. However, nothing is happening when I use on my TV. Even the arrow keys (at extreme right of alphanumeric pad) don't work.
 

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What I wanted to do was cast some home videos from the C: drive of my laptop to the Vizio (M70-d3) and wanted to do it without wires. Perhaps there is a workaround if I go out and procure all the gadgetry described above but I think I'll just go back to hard wiring the laptop to the TV like I used to do.
You might be able to do this without adding a bunch of gear: http://www.laptopmag.com/articles/mirror-screen-windows-10

However, the quality will most likely be better going the hardwired path.

EDIT: I just tried it on my MacBook Pro, and it's definitely a processor intensive task. It's not using any hardware acceleration. My cooling fans were going crazy. Another reason to go hardwired. :cool:
 
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