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Unfortunately many devices show 24/30/60Hz on sceen, although it's actually 23.976/29.970/59.940Hz.
Are you saying that some FTV devices show integer and some show non-integer, during the secret resolution menu cycling? Why would FTV devices act differently? I can understand if it depends on the display device, but sounds like you're saying it depends on the FTV device.
 

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Are you saying that some FTV devices show integer and some show non-integer, during the secret resolution menu cycling? Why would FTV devices act differently? I can understand if it depends on the display device, but sounds like you're saying it depends on the FTV device.
No ... as far as I know the resolution cycling will only cycle through non-integer modes. But as you also mentioned, the screens that you will see during the process will show 24/30/60Hz, although the device is actually running on the non-integer rates. At least that’s how it was on my Fire TV 3 (the pendant). But you can verify this with “System X-Ray” overlay.

And Fire TV devices can of course act differently. They use different chipsets and run different versions of Fire OS. And although Amazon still releases updates even for very old devices, they never up level the OS version on a device. So for example the second generation Fire TV Stick is still running Fire OS 5. And it lacks the “match frame rate” feature, as it’s only available on devices running Fire OS 6 and up. And I also believe that only devices with Fire OS 6+ support both, integer and non-integer refresh rates. At least the Fire TV 3 (pendant) did.

But these are things every owner of a Fire TV device has to check with the developer tools, as there might be differences between other devices as well.

If you want an overview about all Fire TV devices out there, this site will be helpful:
 

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I was using the advanced options menu.

To get to that, hold down the select button for one second. then, while still holding down the select button, press the down button for 3 seconds. Release both buttons and press the menu button.

Then select advanced options from the pop-up menu. So you can also select x-ray to see how the stick is performing.

-T
I was trying this remote sequence, but I'm not sure I'm doing it correctly. First, when do I do this? While any stream in any app is playing? On the home screen? In some settings screen? The select button is the button in the middle of the directional buttons, right? The menu button is the one with the 3 horizontal lines. When I try your sequence while something is playing, it just triggers the various commands for that app.
 

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I was trying this remote sequence, but I'm not sure I'm doing it correctly. First, when do I do this? While any stream in any app is playing? On the home screen? In some settings screen? The select button is the button in the middle of the directional buttons, right? The menu button is the one with the 3 horizontal lines. When I try your sequence while something is playing, it just triggers the various commands for that app.
Hi no1special, doesn't matter what you're in, correct and correct.

Or just download 'Developer Tools Menu' app from Amazon app store.
 

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I was trying this remote sequence, but I'm not sure I'm doing it correctly. First, when do I do this? While any stream in any app is playing? On the home screen? In some settings screen? The select button is the button in the middle of the directional buttons, right? The menu button is the one with the 3 horizontal lines. When I try your sequence while something is playing, it just triggers the various commands for that app.
Just use the “Developer Tools Menu” app from the Amazon App Store. I personally find it much easier than the key sequence.
 

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Hi, swapped out my bedroom TV with my LG OLED55C6 and don't seem to have any audio navigation sounds working on the Firestick (but do in the apps). My setup is this: Sony SA-CT60 soundbar hooked up through the optical port on the TV. HDMI cable running to my closet where I have a Avedio Links OZQ9-1 HDMI switch and the Firestick hooked up to. I have the Sound Out set to Optical/HDMI Arc with digital sound out set to PCM. Tried resetting the fire stick internally, and manually and that didn't help. Anything else I should check? Not sure why my soundbar now doesn't work with my Harmony remote either, but that's for another topic haha.

UPDATE: Did the reset Amazon recommended but that wasn't the solution (or at least solve it then). Ended up going back into the Audio Settings again and set Audio Output (or whatever it's called) from Stereo to Surround Mode. Hope this helps someone.
 

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I was trying this remote sequence, but I'm not sure I'm doing it correctly. First, when do I do this? While any stream in any app is playing? On the home screen? In some settings screen? The select button is the button in the middle of the directional buttons, right? The menu button is the one with the 3 horizontal lines. When I try your sequence while something is playing, it just triggers the various commands for that app.
like others have said, you could be anywhere and do the sequence. Whether you're streaming or not. Home screen or not.

To reiterate:

1. Press the button inside the navigation wheel. Also known as a select button. I like to count one Mississippi because I know that's going to be one second. You can hold it for 2 seconds. It just has to be held down for at least 1 second.

2. Do not let go of the select button. Press the 6 o'clock position on the navigation wheel. So now you'll be holding down the select button and the 6:00 position for three more seconds

3. release both the select button and the 6:00 navigation wheel button. and then press the menu button which has the three horizontal lines on it.

When I follow the sequence, when I pressthe select button,that usually causes my programming to pause since that's what happens a lot when you hit the select button with many apps.

-T
 

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like others have said, you could be anywhere and do the sequence. Whether you're streaming or not. Home screen or not.

To reiterate:

1. Press the button inside the navigation wheel. Also known as a select button. I like to count one Mississippi because I know that's going to be one second. You can hold it for 2 seconds. It just has to be held down for at least 1 second.

2. Do not let go of the select button. Press the 6 o'clock position on the navigation wheel. So now you'll be holding down the select button and the 6:00 position for three more seconds

3. release both the select button and the 6:00 navigation wheel button. and then press the menu button which has the three horizontal lines on it.

When I follow the sequence, when I pressthe select button,that usually causes my programming to pause since that's what happens a lot when you hit the select button with many apps.

-T
LOL...or just point and click with the Developer Tools Menu app...
 

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But I didn't load it. I don't mind waiting 4 seconds and clicking three buttons :)
Shortcut is just much easier without having to leave the stream and app.

Guess I have become proficient at the one-thumb method. OK button pauses video, HOLD, roll thumb to DOWN button, count to three and press MENU button and turn ON DEVELOPER OPTIONS. Press SELECT/OK again and your stream continues with STATS FOR NERDS overlay. Repeat steps and select OFF to turn off overlay and continue to watch video.
 

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Agreed. developer tools really is the way to go.

But I didn't load it. I don't mind waiting 4 seconds and clicking three buttons :)

-T
LOL...no worries, guess I’m just too lazy to play around with the key sequence...and too impatient to get proficient at it 🤣
 

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like others have said, you could be anywhere and do the sequence. Whether you're streaming or not. Home screen or not.

To reiterate:

1. Press the button inside the navigation wheel. Also known as a select button. I like to count one Mississippi because I know that's going to be one second. You can hold it for 2 seconds. It just has to be held down for at least 1 second.

2. Do not let go of the select button. Press the 6 o'clock position on the navigation wheel. So now you'll be holding down the select button and the 6:00 position for three more seconds

3. release both the select button and the 6:00 navigation wheel button. and then press the menu button which has the three horizontal lines on it.

When I follow the sequence, when I pressthe select button,that usually causes my programming to pause since that's what happens a lot when you hit the select button with many apps.

-T
Unfortunately, when I use your instructions, it just launches the select command and then the down command. I got it to work by pressing both select and down simultaneously for 5 seconds, then releasing both buttons at the same time, then pressed the menu button.
 

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So now that I was able to access the developer tools menu and turned on the overlay and the advanced options, I was monitoring the refresh rate and it takes a while before it settles on the 23.976 HZ rate. I'd say about 15 minutes of streaming or more. It doesn't show the refresh rate of the stream immediately or shortly after a stream begins. Is this normal and why does it do this?

Also, can I trust that bitrate of the stream in that advanced options window? Appears it's variable.
 

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So now that I was able to access the developer tools menu and turned on the overlay and the advanced options, I was monitoring the refresh rate and it takes a while before it settles on the 23.976 HZ rate. I'd say about 15 minutes of streaming or more. It doesn't show the refresh rate of the stream immediately or shortly after a stream begins. Is this normal and why does it do this?
15 minutes is a long time. Most times I would say within 60 seconds of starting a stream it settles into the actual rate.
 

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So now that I was able to access the developer tools menu and turned on the overlay and the advanced options, I was monitoring the refresh rate and it takes a while before it settles on the 23.976 HZ rate. I'd say about 15 minutes of streaming or more. It doesn't show the refresh rate of the stream immediately or shortly after a stream begins. Is this normal and why does it do this?
The refresh rate change is instant and will remain locked to that refresh rate. The onscreen display you're referring to is a rolling average that takes some time to settle to the actual value. It's only for information purposes and has no effect on refresh rate currently in use.
 

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The refresh rate change is instant and will remain locked to that refresh rate. The onscreen display you're referring to is a rolling average that takes some time to settle to the actual value. It's only for information purposes and has no effect on refresh rate currently in use.
Yeah, I kind of figured that the refresh rate wasn't actually fluctuating as shown. Just don't know why it takes so long to settle in before it shows the stream's actual refresh rate.

EDIT: I was referring to the stream's frame rate, not refresh rate.
 

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Yeah, I kind of figured that the refresh rate wasn't actually fluctuating as shown. Just don't know why it takes so long to settle in before it shows the stream's actual refresh rate.
You are confusing frame rate with refresh rate. ;)

The "Advanced Options" box will show you the "frame rate" (in "fps" = frames per second) of the currently playing video.
The "System X-Ray" overlay will show you the "refresh rate" (in "Hz" = Hertz) of the display mode the device is currently using.

"Match frame rate" on a device will always try to adjust the device's output refresh rate, so it matches the frame rate of the currently playing video. This way video playback should be as smooth as possible. And that's why it's important that a device supports both, non-integer and integer refresh rates.

As mentioned, ATV for example only supports non-integer refresh rates. So ATV can't match videos that have integer frame rates. That's why a 24.000fps video will be output at 23.976Hz. And because of the difference, there will be a frame drop about every 42 seconds. Otherwise video and audio would get more and more out of sync.
 

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You are confusing frame rate with refresh rate. ;)
Yes, you're right. I meant frame rate. I'm not using the system x-ray overlay. I'm using the advanced options to check bitrate and frame rate. For some reason, on Netflix and others, it takes a long time for the frame rate to settle in. On Prime video, it's quick. But a few 4K HDR videos I tried with Movies Anywhere and Apple TV app, the frame rate also settles in quickly. Not sure why, with some streams, it takes many minutes to settle in on the actual frame rate.
 

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Yes, you're right. I meant frame rate. I'm not using the system x-ray overlay. I'm using the advanced options to check bitrate and frame rate. For some reason, on Netflix and others, it takes a long time for the frame rate to settle in. On Prime video, it's quick. But a few 4K HDR videos I tried with Movies Anywhere and Apple TV app, the frame rate also settles in quickly. Not sure why, with some streams, it takes many minutes to settle in on the actual frame rate.
I think Wizziwig is right and the frame rate shown here is not a real time value, but an average. So it will take some time until the average value will come down to the actual frame rate of the video during playback.

I don’t know why this happens more or less quickly. But I think I remember from my Fire TV 3 that the value always came down to the actual frame rate almost immediately when there was also a change in the stream’s resolution (also shown in the advanced options box). I guess there is some kind of reset in this case.

So the reason for the different behavior between apps could be that some apps will already start streaming at maximum resolution available (value will settle down slowly to actual frame rate). And other apps will start streaming at a lower resolution and then change to a higher one shortly after playback has started (value will jump quickly to actual frame rate). I would think that this will also be the case for 4K content, where apps will usually start streaming at a lower resolution and then 4K will kick in during playback.
 
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