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I have had the X3600 since December. I find much to like with this receiver, but I find the integrated airplay and bluetooth sound decidedly inferior to all other sources. I have three airplay sources available to the receiver - internal, AppleTV and and LG C9. For convenience I would prefer to use the receivers internal airplay. But after a few months of iPhone streaming I've given up. It sucks.



In general this unit is the best sounding Denon or Marantz I have owned. But I've never owned the top of the line from these brands.
Can you elaborate? Do you find the airplay music thru the appletv or LG TV sounds better/cleaner than directly to the reciever?

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Can you elaborate? Do you find the airplay music thru the appletv or LG TV sounds better/cleaner than directly to the reciever?
Yes. At first I assumed that my perception of a quality difference was simply a volume difference between sources. But after a few months of annoyance I'm now convinced that there is a quality difference.

I'm not super picky. I'm usually fine with 256 or 320 ACC. But I feel like the internal airplay is back at 64 bit MP3. Same with internal bluetooth.
 

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Yes. At first I assumed that my perception of a quality difference was simply a volume difference between sources. But after a few months of annoyance I'm now convinced that there is a quality difference.

I'm not super picky. I'm usually fine with 256 or 320 ACC. But I feel like the internal airplay is back at 64 bit MP3. Same with internal bluetooth.
Interesting. I find the sound quality from Airplay with the 3600H to be excellent. There is a 1.5 to 2 second delay when I stream music from my MacbookPro but the audio quality is top notch. My Sony TV also have airplay built in but I see no reason to turn the TV on when I can just use the Denon.
 

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I am in the market for a new processor, and am considering the Denon X3600H to replace my Emotiva UMC-200. I'm looking for 4k support, Atmos capable, and pre-outs (with 12v trigger) if I keep my amps.

But ... I'm wondering if it's even worth it to keep the amps if I go with the X3600H.

Those of you driving speakers from it, what do you think about it's capabilities? Will the onboard 105w amps drive my NHT speakers (86dB sensitivity rating) to reasonable levels without clipping or over heating?


Oh, and for those using it as a processor ... does the chassis heat up even when no speakers are connected to the binding posts? One thing I like about the pre/pro setup is it keeps the heat down where the processor is located.



I don't suppose the X3600H offers the ability to switch off the internal amplifiers, does it? I looked through the owner's manual and didn't see anything like that listed.
 

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I am in the market for a new processor, and am considering the Denon X3600H to replace my Emotiva UMC-200. I'm looking for 4k support, Atmos capable, and pre-outs (with 12v trigger) if I keep my amps.

But ... I'm wondering if it's even worth it to keep the amps if I go with the X3600H.

Those of you driving speakers from it, what do you think about it's capabilities? Will the onboard 105w amps drive my NHT speakers (86dB sensitivity rating) to reasonable levels without clipping or over heating?


Oh, and for those using it as a processor ... does the chassis heat up even when no speakers are connected to the binding posts? One thing I like about the pre/pro setup is it keeps the heat down where the processor is located.



I don't suppose the X3600H offers the ability to switch off the internal amplifiers, does it? I looked through the owner's manual and didn't see anything like that listed.
About your second question, apparently it does switch off the 2 channels when using an external amp. Audioholics explained that in their review. Look at the editorial note in the link below:


I run Klipsch RP280Fs as my fronts in a 5.2.4 setup. Those speakers are rated for 98db which is a lot higher than what yours does. So I cant comment from my experience. I dont have external amps (planning to add them) and my music from Tidal are crisp and loud. I didnt "feel" the need of adding amps (even with Atmos movies with all 9 channels driven) but I will still probably do just to see what I am missing.
 

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About your second question, apparently it does switch off the 2 channels when using an external amp. Audioholics explained that in their review. Look at the editorial note in the link below:


I run Klipsch RP280Fs as my fronts in a 5.2.4 setup. Those speakers are rated for 98db which is a lot higher than what yours does. So I cant comment from my experience. I dont have external amps (planning to add them) and my music from Tidal and crisp and loud. I didnt "feel" the need of adding amps (even with Atmos movies with all 9 channels driven) but I will still probably do just to see what I am missing.
I guess linked are not allowed so here is what Audioholics said:

"Editorial Note about Front L/R Channels Preamp Disconnect

Front L/R channel preamp disconnect ONLY happens in a 11CH speaker configuration. If you have simply 9.1 channel configuration (5.1.4) or less, and you want to drive front L/R speakers out of external amplifier, or L/R/C, or L/R/C/SL/SR speakers out of external 5 channel amplifiers, internal amplifiers will not be disconnected. There is no selecting or sensing mechanism to allow that unless you activate 11.1 channel Amp Assign mode and select Front L and R for preouts."
 

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I guess linked are not allowed so here is what Audioholics said:

"Editorial Note about Front L/R Channels Preamp Disconnect

Front L/R channel preamp disconnect ONLY happens in a 11CH speaker configuration. If you have simply 9.1 channel configuration (5.1.4) or less, and you want to drive front L/R speakers out of external amplifier, or L/R/C, or L/R/C/SL/SR speakers out of external 5 channel amplifiers, internal amplifiers will not be disconnected. There is no selecting or sensing mechanism to allow that unless you activate 11.1 channel Amp Assign mode and select Front L and R for preouts."
I've linked plenty of things. I think it may be a matter of having to post a certain number of times before you can do that.

It may be 10 posts, but could be more. So if you care to answer my post in any way feel free to do that and get a little closer :)
 

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I guess linked are not allowed so here is what Audioholics said:

"Editorial Note about Front L/R Channels Preamp Disconnect

Front L/R channel preamp disconnect ONLY happens in a 11CH speaker configuration. If you have simply 9.1 channel configuration (5.1.4) or less, and you want to drive front L/R speakers out of external amplifier, or L/R/C, or L/R/C/SL/SR speakers out of external 5 channel amplifiers, internal amplifiers will not be disconnected. There is no selecting or sensing mechanism to allow that unless you activate 11.1 channel Amp Assign mode and select Front L and R for preouts."

It doesn't actually switch off any of the amp channels, but the binding posts become disconnected from the internal amps and the Height 2 binding posts then become connected to those amp channels.



The rear panel has binding posts for 11 speakers, even though there are only 9 amp channels inside. So when you select the front L/R for external amplification, those two amp channels are reassigned to the Height 2 terminals.
 
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I am in the market for a new processor, and am considering the Denon X3600H to replace my Emotiva UMC-200. I'm looking for 4k support, Atmos capable, and pre-outs (with 12v trigger) if I keep my amps.

But ... I'm wondering if it's even worth it to keep the amps if I go with the X3600H.

Those of you driving speakers from it, what do you think about it's capabilities? Will the onboard 105w amps drive my NHT speakers (86dB sensitivity rating) to reasonable levels without clipping or over heating?


Oh, and for those using it as a processor ... does the chassis heat up even when no speakers are connected to the binding posts? One thing I like about the pre/pro setup is it keeps the heat down where the processor is located.



I don't suppose the X3600H offers the ability to switch off the internal amplifiers, does it? I looked through the owner's manual and didn't see anything like that listed.
Having sub(s) that allow you to set speakers to small and start rolling off at 60hz probably also helps these receivers with many internal amplifiers. If you do a 7.X.4 you will need an external amplifier regardless.

I have L/R and zone 2 on external amplification. I would also put the center channel on external amplification if I had an amp available.

I would probably keep the older power amp if rack/shelf space isn't an issue. It's old enough that its selling price is probably stable.

Personally I would not upgrade to Atmos if the height speakers can not be properly located in the ceiling. I would also not upgrade at significant expense (relative to ones finances).

The x3600 is a terrific bargain if you have the physical layout to do proper atmos. If you pay $1099 watch for a price match at $899. Denon did drop the wholesale price in January for a few weeks and I was able to get back a couple hundred from my retailer.
 

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Having sub(s) that allow you to set speakers to small and start rolling off at 60hz probably also helps these receivers with many internal amplifiers. If you do a 7.X.4 you will need an external amplifier regardless.

I have L/R and zone 2 on external amplification. I would also put the center channel on external amplification if I had an amp available.

I would probably keep the older power amp if rack/shelf space isn't an issue. It's old enough that its selling price is probably stable.

Personally I would not upgrade to Atmos if the height speakers can not be properly located in the ceiling. I would also not upgrade at significant expense (relative to ones finances).

The x3600 is a terrific bargain if you have the physical layout to do proper atmos. If you pay $1099 watch for a price match at $899. Denon did drop the wholesale price in January for a few weeks and I was able to get back a couple hundred from my retailer.
Great info, thanks! I do plan to install 4 ceiling speakers for 7.1.4 configuration. My front mains have 8" long-throw sub drivers in them, so I really want to leave them set as large. But I do understand what you mean by selecting small for heat reduction.

I'm not in a space constraint for the amps, as they're in their own dedicated cabinet space. The heat from the amps isn't too big of an issue (other than AC cost in central Texas summers), but my processor and source devices are in a closed cabinet with glass doors. I do have an exhaust fan in the cabinet, but if I don't have to run it, I'd rather not. Years ago, I had a Yamaha pro receiver which allowed turning off the internal amps completely when using the pre-outs. This was really nice, as it significantly reduced the heat output of the receiver. I wonder why this type of feature isn't more readily available on receivers with full sets of pre-outs?

I was just wondering if the x3600H internal amps were up to the challenge of the 86dB sensitivity NHT speakers. I know my amps aren't high wattage, but they are high current. I have my front L/R bi-amped right now using 4 channels of the AVA-7 (which is just a rebadged Lexicon GX7). One channel for the 8", and the 2nd channel for the mids & tweeters.

I realize for a 7.1.4 setup, I'll need at least two channels of external amplification. The Adcom would work well for that. I'm currently using the Carver for my DIY dual voice coil sub and it's a really good match up.

If the X3600H's internal amps would drive the NHT bookshelves (Super Ones) without sweating, I am considering selling the AVA-7 and Mitsubishi DA10 amps to help offset the cost of these upgrades. I just bought the LG OLED and Apple TV 4k ... now comes the processor, and next will be a new 4k capable DVR solution. It's adding up quickly LOL!

I've thought about replacing the speakers for higher sensitivity ones .. but I really do like how the NHT's sound and I'm reaching the end of my budget for upgrades.

Where do you see the Denon wholesale price drop listed? If that type of discussion isn't allowed in this thread, would you mind sending me a PM on the details? I did see GreenToe lists that as the lowest online price, but can't locate where it is; and they won't take any offers on it right now due to it being on backorder for them.
 

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Denon AVRS750H EDID Problem

I'm having some issues and was hoping for some help. I had an Onkyo 676 and the left rear channel crapped out on me. I purchased a Denon AVRS750H simply because it had the number of inputs that I needed, although I've always heard good things about Denon.
I use a Logitech remote to control everything. When I launch the Watch TV activity and everything turns on, more times than not, I get video but no audio. If I restart the DirecTV receiver it tends to correct the problem but it's been frustrating.

I'm assuming it's some kind of EDID problem. Aside from knowing what EDID is, I have little knowledge beyond that or if there's a way to fix it. I read that powering the devices in a different order, or adding delays could help.
Can anyone shed any light on this by chance? What should the order be? TV first, the DirecTV and then the Denon receiver? I didn't have this problem with the Onkyo and it's past the point of me being able to return the Denon.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I had that issue before.

What I did was to replicate the problem one step at a time, until I got the sequence right.

Then re-order the sequence according to my troubleshooting + added a few ms delay om the logitech remote.
 

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I had that issue before.

What I did was to replicate the problem one step at a time, until I got the sequence right.

Then re-order the sequence according to my troubleshooting + added a few ms delay om the logitech remote.
Thanks. I've been trying to pick it apart since I made this post.



It seems like once everything is on, if I turn off DirecTV and then turn it back on it seems to work. I'm just not sure how to translate that command on the Logitech, or if there's a better way to do it. I've tried adjusting times to turn each device on, but I have mixed results. If I turn DirecTV off and then back on it seems to work pretty consistently so far. There's got to be a better way to do this.



Thanks for the reply
 

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I'm having some issues and was hoping for some help. I had an Onkyo 676 and the left rear channel crapped out on me. I purchased a Denon AVRS750H simply because it had the number of inputs that I needed, although I've always heard good things about Denon.
I use a Logitech remote to control everything. When I launch the Watch TV activity and everything turns on, more times than not, I get video but no audio. If I restart the DirecTV receiver it tends to correct the problem but it's been frustrating.

I'm assuming it's some kind of EDID problem. Aside from knowing what EDID is, I have little knowledge beyond that or if there's a way to fix it. I read that powering the devices in a different order, or adding delays could help.
Can anyone shed any light on this by chance? What should the order be? TV first, the DirecTV and then the Denon receiver? I didn't have this problem with the Onkyo and it's past the point of me being able to return the Denon.

Thanks in advance.
There is a lot of very helpful information provided in the first 8 posts of this thread to include information regarding your issue ("HDMI handshake" not EDID) which is discussed in post 3 Section 11 (Troubleshooting) item (k).
 

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Thanks. I've been trying to pick it apart since I made this post.

It seems like once everything is on, if I turn off DirecTV and then turn it back on it seems to work. I'm just not sure how to translate that command on the Logitech, or if there's a better way to do it. I've tried adjusting times to turn each device on, but I have mixed results. If I turn DirecTV off and then back on it seems to work pretty consistently so far. There's got to be a better way to do this.

Thanks for the reply
Sometimes repeating commands in the Harmony remote sequence helps. I've repeated the HDMI input selection and/or AVR device selection (after inserting a delay) with success in my Harmony remotes. If doing this doesn't solve the issue, I suppose you could always add a DirectTV power off and power on (or power toggle twice) to the startup sequence. But that seems like it would result in a very slow start.
 

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Sometimes repeating commands in the Harmony remote sequence helps. I've repeated the HDMI input selection and/or AVR device selection (after inserting a delay) with success in my Harmony remotes. If doing this doesn't solve the issue, I suppose you could always add a DirectTV power off and power on (or power toggle twice) to the startup sequence. But that seems like it would result in a very slow start.
Thanks everybody. I've played around with delays for hours. I thought I'd try a different DirecTV receiver so I grabbed the one out of my room and swapped it out.

The one I was having trouble with was a HR24-200 and I put an HR24-500 in it's place. It seems to be working much better now. I know it's not ideal, but I have a much better success rate now. So far, every time I've used the Watch TV activity it's come on with the audio working.

Just wanted to share my findings in case this can help someone else. I appreciate the replies. It got me thinking about what else I could try. Thanks @koan, @jdsmoothie and @Prolab
 

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Denon X3600 audio cutting in and out at high volume?

I just bought a refurb Denon X3600 to replace a 13yr old Onkyo SR505 w/75W per channel. I am wondering if its normal to have to run the volume up to near reference level before it seems somewhat loud? On the less powerful Onkyo, using the 0-100 scale, I would never get it above about 50, as it would be REALLY loud at that point. On the new Denon, using the FM tuner, and only in stereo mode, it was nearly inaudible at 0 through about 20, then still very low volume up until about 60 or 70. At 75-80, the audio started going off and on - some sort of protection mode maybe? When I switched to the other volume scale, it does the same, but starts to cut out around -5db. All of this was with manual speaker setup. When I ran Audessey, it seemed to get better, but still seems I need to run the volume way up to get loud'ish. It also set my crossover levels much higher than I had been doing manually. I had them at 80, but audessey set them at 120 for my center, and 150 for the surrounds. After checking the manual, it recommends 100 for the center and 120 for rears - would that cause the cutting out? I'm using Goldenear Triton Seven fronts, Supersat 50c, and supersat 50C center, and supersat 3 rears.
I did find one similar previous discussion, and someone said that new receivers tend to require turning the volume up quite a bit as compared to older models, so hopefully mine is not defective.
When using a different source, such as playing an audio CD through the BD player, it does not seem to cut out, so maybe its something to do with the tuner signal?

Sorry for all the rambling! Just want to make sure this thing is acting normally since I am nervous about buying refurbished!
 

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I've been playing at about 50-55 for normal movie watching in my home theatre (after audyssey calibration / ref mode / deq on / dynamic volume off / Dolby Atmos/surround mode)

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
 

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So I’m looking to upgrade from the X1600 to the X3600, upon searching regarding XT32 and what it does over XT I’m not seeing what it does over XT besides the sub EQ for two subs.

I’m only running one sub, does it provide any benefit here, if so what does it do?
What benefits does it provide for speakers?
 

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So I’m looking to upgrade from the X1600 to the X3600, upon searching regarding XT32 and what it does over XT I’m not seeing what it does over XT besides the sub EQ for two subs.

I’m only running one sub, does it provide any benefit here, if so what does it do?
What benefits does it provide for speakers?
The feature that sets the level/delay of two subs independently is called Audyssey Sub EQ HT which is independent from Audyssey MultEQ XT32.

On a scale of 1-10 with MultEQ = 1 and MultEQ XT32 = 10, MultEQ XT = 3.

Review the Audyssey FAQ where all of your Audyssey related questions will be answered ---> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-receivers-amps-processors/2376770-official-audyssey-thread-part-ii.html
 
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