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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Key Features
- Able to use the 2016 Marantz AVR Remote app (free, iOS/Android)
- Able to use the Audyssey MultEQ Editor app ($20 iOS/Android) to include editing the Audyssey target curve for each pair of speakers
- Made in Japan
- Learning Remote w/LCD and backlite button
- Airplay 2
- Web Control
- IMAX Enhanced DTS:X
- Single board per channel power amplifier design; centrally mounted, oversized toroidal transformer; copper-plated chassis
- AK4458VN 32 bit DAC
- 11.2 channel AV Receiver (13CH processing w/external 2CH amp) with 140W into 2CH @ 8-ohm
- HDCP 2.3 all HDMI inputs/outputs
- Dolby Atmos Height Virtualization (factory default is ON, so with a 7.1 or less setup, this feature is enabled; works with DD/DTS/PCM w/no Audyssey limitation)
- Main Zone HDMI/TV Audio distribution (multi channel) down mixed to 2CH for Zone 2/HEOS speakers - press the [Zone 2 Source] button on the front panel and select "Source" instead of the actual source name (formerly only on 2019 SR6014)
- USB input supports both FAT32 and NTFS
- ALL ZONE STEREO setting added to Smart Select buttons
- Bluetooth transmission to single set of headphones/hearing aids (with "Bluetooth only" or "Bluetooth + speakers" settings) - volume adjustment via headphone/hear aids only
- HDMI Custom Input Assign (able to assign a single HDMI input jack to multiple source names to enable saving separate audio input assignments for each, ie. HDMI, digital, analog))
- HDMI Input Auto Rename (AVR will automatically change the input name if recognized, eg. if using PS4, the name would change to PS4)
- Airplay disable (ON/OFF) - so AVR is not seen as an Airplay device (eg. if kids in the house that might accidently select it as a source)
- Roon tested (ie. use Airplay or USB)
- Able to "overlay" the volume bar, INFO and OPTION menus on all 4k and 8k video with Setup menu displayed on black background - note that must be enabled for the "overlay" to occur; however, the can be disabled.

- A single HDMI 2.1/HDCP 2.3/8k/40Gbps input (8K/60Hz and 4K/120Hz pass-through) with all remaining HDMI inputs 4k/HDMI 2.0b/HDCP 2.3 - [Note that the 40Gbps number is more likely to be the number the industry adopts at large vs the 48Gbps initial target. The 2020 LG OLED X series just released with 40Gbps ports.]
- Both main zone HDMI monitor outputs are also 8k/HDCP 2.3 while the Zone 2 monitor output remains 4k/HDMI 2.0b/HDCP 2.3
- AUX 2 button on remote relabeled to 8k
- AUX 1 button on remote relabeled to AUX
- Pre-amp mode (formerly only featured on the flagship models) - physically disconnects all on board amps when only external amps are being used regardless of whether only 2 speakers or up to maximum of 13 speakers
- Speaker Preset (1/2) - Store two sets of speaker settings (including separate Audyssey EQ for each ie. no longer need to use USB or MultEQ Editor app for this); also added to Smart Select buttons
- Gaming enhancements - all HDMI inputs are able to pass Variable Refresh Rate (VRR); Quick Frame Transport (QFT); Auto Low Latency Mode (ALLM - previously added on some older models via firmware update) )
- Video/Movie enhancements - all HDMI inputs are able to pass Dynamic HDR, HDR10+; Quick Media Switching (QMS)
- Height 3/Front Wide speaker support
- Dolby Atmos (up to 7.2.6 or 9.2.4 w/2CH amp)
- Auro 3D Center Height (CH) with Auro 3D 13.1 support
- Able to use DTS Neural:X on all audio
- HDCP Setup - sets the HDCP version (Auto/1.4/2.3) for an HDMI input source
- ECO Mode defaults to "Auto"
- Volume Limit - variable from 60-80 / -20dB to 0dB (vs. fixed 60/70/80 - -20dB/-10dB/0dB on older models)
- Bass Sync can be enabled in DIRECT/PURE DIRECT modes with a multi channel audio source
- Video - Information menu displays whether ALLM / QMS / QFT enabled on input signal
- Dolby Surround Upmixer (DSU) - able to up-mix to a single Surround Back speaker (ie. 6.1 setup) as well as to Front Wide speakers when the "Speaker Virtualizer" is OFF

- Added via future firmware update:
- Screen saver - moving MARANTZ icon (after no video input or same menu displayed for more than 5 minutes - Default = OFF); also moving MUTE icon (December 2020)
- DTS:X Pro - support for up to 7.2.6 (with ability to select either Top Middle or Top Surround+Center Height) or 9.2.4 (ie. Front Wide) (December 2020)


 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
How do I reset the microprocessor or do a network reset?

When the AVR is acting up or doing something strange, try the following steps before resorting to a microprocessor reset:

1. "Restart" - set the AVR to Standby and press/hold the power ON button until "Restart" is displayed on the front panel.

If no joy, then ...

2. Soft reset - set the AVR to Standby and unplug the power cord for about 10 minutes, then plug back in the power cord and turn ON.

If neither of the above resolves the issue, then you'll need to either do a network reset (if network related) or a microprocessor reset. You'll also want to reset the microprocessor before doing anything else if you purchased the AVR as an "open box" or demo/used/refurb unit to ensure all settings are returned to their original factory defaults. Prior to doing a reset, you can SAVE the config file to a USB thumb drive so it can be LOADed after doing the reset (SETUP - GENERAL - SAVE&LOAD).


Network Reset (“Amp Assign”, “Speaker Config.” and “Video” settings are not reset)

1 - Turn ON the power using ON/STANDBY.
2 - Select the HEOS Music source
3 - Simultaneously press/hold the "BACK" and "ENTER" buttons for at least 3 seconds.
4 - Release your fingers when "Network Reset" is displayed on the front panel.
5 - "Complete" will display when the reset has completed.

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Microprocessor Reset (aka "Reset to original factory settings" with no change to current firmware version)

1 - Turn off the power using ON/STANDBY.
2 - Press and release ON/STANDBY (as you normally would when powering on the AVR) while simultaneously pressing/holding the "GAME" and "INFO" buttons on the front panel
3 - Remove your fingers from the two buttons when "Initialized" appears on the front panel display.

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** NOTES:
(1) Prior to resetting the microprocessor, you can SAVE the config/settings (to include Audyssey settings) to a USB thumb drive using the SETUP - GENERAL - SAVE & LOAD setting.
(2) In some cases where a single microprocessor reset did not resolve an issue, doing at least 5 in a row did
-------------------

Network Reset + Microprocessor Reset (aka "Reset to original factory settings" with no change to current firmware version)
1 - Turn off the power using ON/STANDBY.
2 - Press and release ON/STANDBY (as you normally would when powering on the AVR) while simultaneously pressing/holding the "MOVIE" and "MUSIC" buttons on the front panel
3 - Remove your fingers from the two buttons when "Initialized" appears on the front panel display.

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Factory Restore (restore to original factory firmware version)

1 - Turn off the power using ON/STANDBY.
2 - Simultaneously press/hold the: "M-DAX" and "DYNAMIC EQ" buttons on the front panel and then press the ON/STANDBY button on the front panel. This procedure will take 15-20 minutes to restore to the original factory firmware.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Firmware Updates

(1) Firmware updates for the AR8015 should be available via Marantz's website and can be downloaded and installed via USB thumb drive. You will need to enter the serial number of the AVR at the website page to obtain the update.

(2) Firmware updates can also be installed by the owner via an internet connection to the Marantz servers. Although it's not necessary to update your unit if you are not experiencing any problems, it's generally a good idea to keep it updated so that if there are any problems with the update the unit will still be covered under warranty. The update process generally doesn't take more than 30 minutes once the download begins and also generally does not erase any settings, although it's always a good idea to SAVE the config.avr file using the Setup - General - SAVE & LOAD - SAVE feature prior to doing the update just in case. Note that if the update process is stuck on "Authenticating", ensure a source other than NET/USB is selected and just let it continue for up to a few hours and it should eventually begin the update process (although note that Marantz's servers have been known to crash the first day of release due to the overload, so you may want to wait a few days before trying again).

Other tips if having problems with the update include setting "Network Control" to OFF in Standby, cycling the DHCP setting on the AVR, or using a static IP address.

During the update, the AVR will go into Standby mode, but will continue to update status on the front panel display. If the update seems to be hung up (ie. goes beyond 1 hour) ... power the AVR to Standby, unplug it for a few minutes and power back on and attempt the update again. If the update fails to load, check the network environment (ie. reset the router, replace the router with a more current/robust model, or ideally wire directly to the router if connecting wirelessly) If still not having any luck with the update, perform a Network Reset as described in post 3 above. You may also want to consider purchasing a long (100'+) Cat5/6 cable for network updates only for a higher probability of a successful install.

You will be notified automatically when there is a firmware update when the AVR is turned ON as long as the Notification Update setting is set to ON (factory default). For more information refer to Setup - General - Firmware - Notifications -Update in the Owner's manual. To manually check for an update, refer to Setup - General - Firmware - Update - Check for Update.

(3) What is my unit's current firmware version? The current firmware version can be determined from the AVR's menu: Setup --> General --> Information --> Firmware Version.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Expanding from 11CH to 13CH

When expanding the SR8015 from 11CH --> 13CH, the most cost effective solution is to purchase a smaller amp (eg. 50W AudioSource Amp100VS2) or re-purpose an existing AVR that you are replacing to power the second set of Height speakers. Another option for much higher cost is to purchase a much more powerful amp (eg. 300W Emotiva XPA-2) and power the Front L/R speakers.

50W, 12 lb solution
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSEFU94/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687762&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00026BQJ6&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1TAJM72C74241PTYPSTE

300W, 35 lb solution
https://www.amazon.com/Emotiva-Audio-stereo-audio-amplifier/dp/B01KZHOXW8/ref=dp_ob_title_def


Connection:
a. A set of RCA cables would be used to connect either the Front L/R or Height2 L/R pre-outs (depending on amp selected) on the back of the SR8015 to the L/R inputs on the external amp.
b. If using the AudioSource Amp100VS, connect to the MAIN/Line 2 inputs.
c. If using an old AVR, you would connect from the SR8015 pre-outs to one of the stereo analog audio inputs (eg. CD) of the old AVR and then connect the speakers to the Front L/R speaker posts on the old AVR.


IMPORTANT: Ensure all amps are powered off when making cable/speaker wire connections.

Volume:
If the external amp/AVR has a volume knob, set it to at least 80% of maximum.

Setting:
If using an old AVR, set it to DIRECT sound mode.

Once the amp and speakers are connected, and the amp is powered on, run Audyssey again to add these new speakers into your setup using the following AMP ASSIGN setting:

If the external amp is used for the Height 2 speakers:

Assign Mode: 13.1
Floor
- Layout
: 5ch & SB
Height
– Height Sp
: 6ch
- Layout: Top Front + Top Middle + Top Rear (or whatever 3 settings are available that you want to use)
- Pre-out: Top Rear

Note: The above PREOUT = Top Rear setting simply identifies which speaker pre-outs are being used for the "expansion" .... you can externally power as many additional speakers as desired as all the pre-outs are hot (ie. there is no setting to turn them ON) such that you could externally power up to all 11 speakers if you prefer. Note however, that if you do externally power all speakers (regardless of the number), use AMP ASSIGN = Pre-Amp instead of 13.1.

If the external amp is used for the Front L/R speakers:

Assign Mode: 13.1
Floor
- Layout
: 5ch & SB
Height
– Height Sp
: 6ch
- Layout: Front Height + Top Middle + Rear Height (or whatever 3 settings are available that you want to use)
- Pre-out: Front

Note: The above PREOUT = Front setting simply identifies which speaker pre-outs are being used for the "expansion" .... you can externally power as many additional speakers as desired as all the pre-outs are hot (ie. there is no setting to turn them ON) such that you could externally power up to all 11 speakers if you prefer. Note however, that if you do externally power all speakers (regardless of the number), use AMP ASSIGN = Pre-Amp instead of 13.1.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
AMP ASSIGN = Pre-Amp : This setting is only used when none of the internal amps are in use rather only external amps are being used (regardless of how many speakers are being externally amped); however, if you only want this Pre-amp mode feature on the Front L/R speakers, then select AMP ASSIGN = 13.1 regardless of whether you are using 13 speakers or not in your setup. Note also that all the main zone pre-outs are always HOT, you don't have to set them to ON in order to add external amps (eg. if you have a 7.1 setup and you want to power the L/C/R speakers externally, then you simply connect the RCA cables to the L/C/R pre-outs, raise the volume on the external amp (if adjustable) to at least 80% of maximum, and then run Audyssey again to account for the different gain structure of the external amp compared to the AVRs internal amps.

Speaker Preset 1/2 - This feature will allow saving two different speaker configurations regardless of whether you save an Audyssey EQ or not as it is not an Audyssey related feature. One example of its use is to set Preset 1: Amp Assign = Pre-Amp using all external amps and Preset 2: Amp Assign = 11.1/13.1 with the internal amps powering another configuration either in the same room (possibly also using some of the external amps as well) or in another room. Another example would be using an Audyssey EQ with one preset and the Graphic EQ with another preset. Note also the Speaker Preset selection can also be saved in a Smart Select button as well.

A firmware update for the Audyssey MultEQ Editor app will now allow streaming an Audyssey EQ curve to either Speaker Preset 1 or Speaker Preset 2. If either or both Presets are already using an Audyssey EQ curve, the app will ask whether you want to "overwrite" the existing EQ curve for the Speaker Preset selected.

The following settings are saved to each of the Preset 1 (default) / Preset 2.
0 “Amp Assign” settings
0 “Speaker Config.” settings
0 “Distances” settings
0 “Levels” settings
0 “Crossovers” settngs
0 “Bass” settings
0 “2ch Playback” settings
0 “Front Speaker” settings
0 “MultEQ XT32” data
0 “Graphic EQ” data

IMAX Enhanced DTS/DTS:X Surround Parameters: You must be playing IMAX Enhanced DTS/DTS:X content in order to have access to the individual IMAX settings under "Surround Parameters." (Auto/Manual) in the factory default "Auto" setting will automatically change all speaker crossovers to 70Hz (ie. Crossover, Subwoofer mode, and LPF for LFE cannot be applied), otherwise if not desired, either set to "Manual" and adjust to suit your preference or set to "Off" and will play as regular DTS/DTS:X. Note also there is no Dynamic Range compression used with IMAX Enhanced DTS/DTS:X audio tracks.
 

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As compared to the sister Denon AVR-X6700H

$700 more money for the following
780 watt input rating (+30 watts)
17.3”w x 18.1“d x 7.3“h (+2.8” deeper, +.7” taller)
38.4# (+6.4#)
Learnable remote with LCD display
(32-bit AKM AK4458 D/A converters - same as the 6700)
HDAM amp and phono circuits
+1 component input
+1 composite input front
+1 analog set input front
+ Flasher IR in
+ 7.1 multichannel inputs
Copper plated chassis
Toroidal transformer

I am sure jdsmoothie has more detailed technical info on the differences.

Will edit if I missed some items.
 

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As compared to the sister Denon AVR-X6700H

$700 more money for the following
780 watt input rating (+30 watts)
17.3”w x 18.1“d x 7.3“h (+2.8” deeper, +.7” taller)
38.4# (+6.4#)
Learnable remote with LCD display
32-bit AKM AK4458 D/A converters - not sure if different than the 6700
HDAM amp and phono circuits
+1 component input
+1 composite input front
+1 analog set input front
+ Flasher IR in
+ 7.1 multichannel inputs
Copper plated chassis
Toroidal transformer

I am sure jdsmoothie has more detailed technical info on the differences.

Will edit if I missed some items.

Same as X6700H, not the latest, the latest is AK4468VN
 

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That honor goes to Denon with Marantz providing the flagship pre/pro. However, the SR8015 is still considered a step above the top non-flagship Denon X6700H.
Is this because of the type of power transformer and amplifier section or?

For someone that ends up using all external amplification with the 6700 or the SR8015, would the SR8015 still be considered a step up?
 
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Unfortunately can’t seem to find the manual for this model yet. Does the 8015 also have the custom amp assign feature like the Denon 8500?
 

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Unfortunately can’t seem to find the manual for this model yet. Does the 8015 also have the custom amp assign feature like the Denon 8500?

D/M have been flakey of late in providing for downloading manuals.

This link worked a minute ago, but that could change.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwibiaiqn9zqAhVPhXIEHcWkCbEQFjABegQIAxAB&url=https://www.us.marantz.com/-/media/Files/DocumentMaster/MarantzNA/US/SR8015_NA_EN_UG_v00.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2GCfdSgE_GXVNJXbj20hzx
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Is this because of the type of power transformer and amplifier section or?

For someone that ends up using all external amplification with the 6700 or the SR8015, would the SR8015 still be considered a step up?
Yes, which is the case with the mid/upper Marantz models in general (ie. being a step up from their sister Denon model).
 

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Is this because of the type of power transformer and amplifier section or?

For someone that ends up using all external amplification with the 6700 or the SR8015, would the SR8015 still be considered a step up?

The most important reason is that the SR8012 costs more. Think about it, doesn't that affect your judgement of the units?

The X6700H and SR8015 (based on the X6500H and SR8012) have the same power amplifier modules, one for each channel.

Likely the SR8015 has a little more capacitance in the its power supply.

The SR8015 has a toroid transformer, the X6700H an EI transformer. All things being equal the toroid will radiate less noise into the internals of the SR8012, but pass more noise in it's output due to interwinding capacitance. The EI will radiate more noise, but pass less noise.

The SR8015 has the HDAM buffers after the volume control. Based on opinion, the HDAM's may be an advantage or disadvantage. The overall HDAM implementation in the SR8012 is not the best: low power supply voltage and no separate power supply filtering. In some recent AVR's Marantz has put opamps buffers after the HDAM buffers for the L and R channels. That is not a vote of confidence in the HDAM's.

We'll have to see via measurements how well the SR8015 works as a preamp or an amplifier for that matter. My guess is that the X6700H will be better as a preamp, but there is ample precedence that I can be wrong. That's why its good to measure these products and not make judgements just based on the design, or past generation units.
 

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Based on specs of the 8015 and the 8012. I have an opportunity to pick up an slightly used 8012 for less than 1/2 of the 8015. What would you guys advise? I do t plan on doing any 8k for some time also if this helps. Use will be home theater.


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Based on specs of the 8015 and the 8012. I have an opportunity to pick up an slightly used 8012 for less than 1/2 of the 8015. What would you guys advise? I do t plan on doing any 8k for some time also if this helps. Use will be home theater.
You are going by MSRP on the 8015, many dealers will discount that price however no where near 50% off... If you are not going into 8K or gaming HDMI 2.1 upgrade will not effect you. If none of the new features are rocking your boat, buy the old unit ;)
 
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