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You should be using the factory default AMP ASSIGN = 9.1Ch + Zone 2.

SURROUND BACK speakers require having SURROUND speakers also configured in at least a 7.1 setup. The only configuration for you that would allow this is:

Front row pair - Front L/R
Middle row pair - Surround L/R
Single middle - Center
Back row pair - Surround Back L/R
That is what I currently have it, the whole issue is volume, lets say the first level of volume you can hear is 40's or so I have 7 Klipsch CDT-5800CII which because the sc-35 was on it I know they can handle more.
 

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When using separate Speaker Presets, it should yes.
Thanks. To be more clear, if I choose both Front A + B speakers and then run Audyssey, it will measure both pair of fronts? My Denon AVR-X8500H does not do this so if the SR8015 now allows this with the addition of this new Speaker Preset feature, it will be another reason to buy a SR8015.
 

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Hello All,

Is the SR-8015 worth it over the SR-8012? There are some good deals on the SR-8012. I don't really care about 8K right now, so that feature is not a big selling feature for me.

thanks!
I faced the same dilemma. In the end I went with the 8015 and don’t regret it one bit. I’m totally blown away by music and movies and I’m coming from a SR-7010. I don’t care about 8k either yet, however who knows what the future holds and at least I’m future proof. The 8015 measured better as a preamp than the 8012. Also according to some that have heard both, the 8015 sounds even better than the already dynamic sounding 8012. Don’t know what great deals you’re seeing the 8012’s for, but I’m still seeing $2499 new. If you search around these forums you can find an authorized dealer like I did who can get you a nicely discounted 8015 for not much more. The cost difference to me was peanuts on a receiver I plan on keeping at least 10 years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #504 ·
Thanks. To be more clear, if I choose both Front A + B speakers and then run Audyssey, it will measure both pair of fronts? My Denon AVR-X8500H does not do this so if the SR8015 now allows this with the addition of this new Speaker Preset feature, it will be another reason to buy a SR8015.
Audyssey only measures one set of Front L/R speakers at a time. So you would have to store Front A in one Speaker Preset and store Front B in the other Speaker Preset.
 

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Audyssey only measures one set of Front L/R speakers at a time. So you would have to store Front A in one Speaker Preset and store Front B in the other Speaker Preset.
I was afraid of that. It is bewildering since they let you pick either A, B or A+B as fronts. So its great that I can now store a profile for A and another for B, but it does not appear to use both profiles when A+B is selected. The biggest thing I'd want to do is at least set crossovers accordingly (e.g. Paradigm S8 mains, S2 wides/front-B). Which leads me to believe that Audyssey just treats both A+B as one pair of mains. I don't get why this would be hard for them to implement. If I can set up my S2s as Wides assigned to Height 3 amps, then save it as a Speaker Preset 1. Then move the S2's to Front-B, still assigned to Height 3 amps, then the measurements/EQ for those speakers ought to follow them.

I guess what I'll have to do is grab an external crossover, like an old X30, and set the S2 up as Wides for one Speaker Preset. Then if I want to use them as Front-B I could try to have A+B enabled and see if Audyssey sends signals to both A+B (but only stores info/corrections for one set of fronts).
 

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Hello All,

Is the SR-8015 worth it over the SR-8012? There are some good deals on the SR-8012. I don't really care about 8K right now, so that feature is not a big selling feature for me.

thanks!
Don't over buy,if you do not need any of the new features,save your cash :) Did you buy one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #508 ·
Good evening, no the speakers have different sensitivities, the front B & W704 s2 88dB, Sorround B & W707 s2 84dB, Central B&W HTM72 S2 87dB, Atmos B&W M1 85dB. The fronts are 2 feet from the front wall, the surrounds at the rear corners, the middle 1.5 feet. For the audition I performed 3 positions, the first in the sweet spot, the second 9cm on the right and the third 9cm on the left.
After running the audio through the app I set all speakers EQ up to 500hz to leave natural mids and highs.

Ideally you want to take mic readings from all available positions, which for models with XT32 is 8 mic positions. The first mic position where your seated head would normally be and the remaining 7 mic positions no more than 1-2' radius around that 1st mic position.

Note also that raising all speakers by +6dB is no different than simply raising the master volume +6dB. Also with Dynamic Volume set to OFF, the average master volume level for most is 50-70 / -30dB to -10dB so if you have it set lower, simply raise the master volume level to suit your preference (ie. not going above 80/0dB to ensure there is still sufficient headroom available).
 

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Ideally you want to take mic readings from all available positions, which for models with XT32 is 8 mic positions. The first mic position where your seated head would normally be and the remaining 7 mic positions no more than 1-2' radius around that 1st mic position.

Note also that raising all speakers by +6dB is no different than simply raising the master volume +6dB. Also with Dynamic Volume set to OFF, the average master volume level for most is 50-70 / -30dB to -10dB so if you have it set lower, simply raise the master volume level to suit your preference (ie. not going above 80/0dB to ensure there is still sufficient headroom available).
Hi, I seem to understand the problem where it lies, I basically created 2 different presets: preset 1 audyssey made with all the speakers for film and preset 2 audyssey only with the front speakers for music. I have memorized the two presets on 2 Smart keys if the t different, when I recall the preset I present the Smart select key sometimes I notice that the speakers are all set to 0db volume and this is why I no longer hear the system well, turning off The Unit every time I change preset this problem does not occur. have you noticed this too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #510 ·
Hi, I seem to understand the problem where it lies, I basically created 2 different presets: preset 1 audyssey made with all the speakers for film and preset 2 audyssey only with the front speakers for music. I have memorized the two presets on 2 Smart keys if the t different, when I recall the preset I present the Smart select key sometimes I notice that the speakers are all set to 0db volume and this is why I no longer hear the system well, turning off The Unit every time I change preset this problem does not occur. have you noticed this too?
Set to 0dB where? In Manual Setup (ie. applies globally to all sources)? In CHANNEL LEVEL ADJUST (ie. applies only to the source currently selected)?
 

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It's extremely annoying. I also have to do it with the nVidia Shield.
XBOX Series X (& XBOX One X) and Zidoo 1000 Pro don't require I do that.
Hey wanted to let you know that I did some testing today and I plugged my HDMI into the Mobo HDMI using the Intel UHD Graphics 630, and that fixed the HDMI handshake between it and the AVR. I am currently using a GTX 1050 card and even tried the most current driver and one several versions older but still a black screen when booting/rebooting.
What video card are you using in your PC right now? Thinking of trying out an AMD card to see if I still get the handshake issue.
I don't really game much on the PC so don't need a powerful card.
 

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Hey wanted to let you know that I did some testing today and I plugged my HDMI into the Mobo HDMI using the Intel UHD Graphics 630, and that fixed the HDMI handshake between it and the AVR. I am currently using a GTX 1050 card and even tried the most current driver and one several versions older but still a black screen when booting/rebooting.
What video card are you using in your PC right now? Thinking of trying out an AMD card to see if I still get the handshake issue.
I don't really game much on the PC so don't need a powerful card.
Using a EVGA GeForce RTX 2060 Super. I usually turn it on before I switch inputs but keep in mind the driver doesn't kick in until Windows loads.
I was able to reimage it recently with no issues so loading the initial Windows boot was fine, as was setting the UEFI BIOS to boot off USB.
 

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Using a EVGA GeForce RTX 2060 Super. I usually turn it on before I switch inputs but keep in mind the driver doesn't kick in until Windows loads.
I was able to reimage it recently with no issues so loading the initial Windows boot was fine, as was setting the UEFI BIOS to boot off USB.
Hey just wanted to let you know that I swapped out my GTX 1050i for a Radeon RX 570 and installed the current driver and that fixed the problem. I can now reboot or change resolutions without it losing the signal. After a reboot it takes a an extra second or 2 to reboot but it comes right up no problems.
 
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Hey sr8015 owners, I’m looking to join your ranks! Any of you planning to sell yours soon? Maybe you’re planning an upgrade? ;) Or more likely, any tips for finding one in stock these days? lemme know...
As far as I know there is nothing to upgrade to..


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Valid point... I guess there are those who may consider separating the processor and the amp as an upgrade 🤷‍♂️
Well the closest or equivalent pre-pro comparison to the SR-8015 with the Toroidal transformer ($3200 MSRP) would be an AV 8805 ($4500 MSRP) MM-8077 ($2200 MSRP) combo. The 8015 sounds phenomenal and has been said to have "the sound of separates" per Gene from Audioholics.

I can’t see how the the $6700 MSRP pre-pro/amp combo sounds twice as good as the $3200 8015 if it is even significantly better at all.
 

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Hello,

I am having issues with getting my subwoofer to produce sound from the receiver.
Cable is in the right out/inpunts. The subwoofer is working when I let it emmit a testsweep from the subwoofer itself.
When sending a testtone from the receiver I get nothing.
Anyone have an idea what could be going on??
 

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Hello,

I am having issues with getting my subwoofer to produce sound from the receiver.
Cable is in the right out/inpunts. The subwoofer is working when I let it emmit a testsweep from the subwoofer itself.
When sending a testtone from the receiver I get nothing.
Anyone have an idea what could be going on??
Are you sure the cable is OK?

If you unplug the sub’s cable at the receiver and rub your thumb over that central connector, you should hear a rumble from the sub. If you don’t hear that rumble, the cable (or the sub’s connection) is defective.

Other possibilities include defective connections at the receiver and at the sub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #520 ·
Hello,

I am having issues with getting my subwoofer to produce sound from the receiver.
Cable is in the right out/inpunts. The subwoofer is working when I let it emmit a testsweep from the subwoofer itself.
When sending a testtone from the receiver I get nothing.
Anyone have an idea what could be going on??
Confirm the sub is connected to the Subwoofer #1 Pre-out and not the 7.1 Ch In (Subwoofer).

3118911


Also, the Test Tone volume is controlled by the AVR's master volume level so raise the AVR master volume up to 80/0dB.
 
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