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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
THIS THREAD IS FLUID, AND A WORK IN PROGRESS

PLEASE DO NOT COME IN HERE WITH A CHILDISH, ARGUMENTATIVE DEMEANOR

We are only here to learn, help, and inform.


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Online Manual



How to change from the soft white ambient lights to blue (matches other MARANTZ gear)
  • Pull down the front panel door.
  • Press, and hold down the PURE DIRECT and M-DAX buttons simultaneously for a few seconds until the hue changes.
Video Link (Facebook):

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DAC IC is an ES9018K2M which has THD+N of -120dB and +127dB DNR

ES9018K2M_Datasheet_v3_7-3074373.pdf (mouser.com)


Available crossovers are;

40, 60, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120, 150, 180, 200, 250 on all channel pairs. (When DLBC is released, crossovers should be infinitely more granular using DIRAC.)

15.4-channel processing capability with 17.4-channel XLR and RCA pre-outs

This system can connect with up to 17.1-channel speakers and simultaneously play up to 15.1-channels for Dolby Atmos and play up to 13.1-channel for Auro-3D playback.

The top middle speakers, top surround speaker, and center height speaker are switched and played according to the audio format you are playing.

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Four discreet subwoofer outputs with "directional bass" capability.

The unit has four subwoofer output capability and can adjust the level and delay for each subwoofer individually. Audyssey Sub EQ HT makes the integration seamless by first compensating for any level and delay differences between the four subwoofers and then applying Audyssey MultEQ XT32 to four subwoofers together.

Dolby Atmos
DTS:X Pro
IMAX Enhanced
Auro-3D


Calibration Options

  • Graphic EQ (Free)
  • Audyssey XT32 W/ included mic (Free)
  • Audyssey MultEQ Editor App - Android/iOS ($20)
  • Audyssey MultEQ-X App - PC/Mac ($200)
  • DIRAC PC/Mac (Tiered Pricing Structure)
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Current firmware
:(BELOW IS NOT CURRENT. I WILL UPDATE AS SOON AS I’M ABLE TO TAKE A SCREENSHOT OF THE LATEST RELEASED ON MARCH 15th 2023 ENABLING DIRAC

Version6900-1165-2015-1870
DTS Version4.30.10.15
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
PRO TIPS:
THIS THREAD IS FLUID, AND A WORK IN PROGRESS


These are tips I've come up with, or come across to make the AV 10 easier to understand, operate, and to squeeze as much performance from this big sexy box. I'll be constantly updating this post to help out the owners.


I suggest everyone run the firmware update checker at least 3x, then factory reset after all firmware updates are done before use.

For me, there were 2 quick firmwares fresh out the box.

A 5 minute one, then immediately, another 3 minute one after I rebooted and checked for new firmware again.

Resetting factory settings:

1- Turn off the power via the power button.
2- Press the power button while simultaneously pressing INFO and BACK.
3- Remove your fingers from the two buttons when “Initialized” appears on the display.

Resetting network settings:

1- Turn off the power via the power button.
2-Turn INPUT selector to select “HEOS Music”.
3- Press and hold the main unit's DIMMER and cursor Right at the same time for at least 3 seconds.
4- Remove your fingers from the two buttons when “Network Reset...” appears on the display.
5- “Completed” is shown in the display when reset is complete.

Restoring the firmware to the factory defaults:

1- Press the power button while simultaneously pressing SETUP and DIMMER
2- When “Restoring FW...” appears on the display, release the buttons. When the firmware restore is complete, “Completed” appears on the display for about 5 seconds, and the unit automatically restarts.


The easiest and fastest way to set up your AV 10 is via the "WEBUI" Webpage (renaming inputs, various settings, eARC, CEC, crossovers, speaker config, etc.....) Get it connected to your network, then set it up by accessing it via a PC, laptop, tablet, etc..... using the unit's ip address.

I personally give mine a static, or reserved IP on my network.

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Sub Distance Tweak

After running the plain, built in Audyssey XT32, It set my front 3 channels crossover at 40Hz. I decided to change them to 80Hz to let my subs do what they do. This gave me an unexpected bad frequency response.

I set about fixing it, and settled on the "Sub Distance Tweak". I was actually able to get a better response at 80Hz than the Ausyssey suggested 40Hz. This is not the AV 10's fault, but Audyssey's.

Sub Distance Tweak info link:



Rack Mounting Options

There is none currently available, but owner's have used these ventilated shelves with success:

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
DIRAC and REW Tips
THIS THREAD IS FLUID, AND A WORK IN PROGRESS



PURCHASE A DIRAC LICENSE HERE:

Official DIRAC Desktop App and Changelogs Link:

Offical MARANTZ web and pdf manual for DIRAC:


Follow this great thread for everything DIRAC:



Step your mic game up:

A better mic = more accurate results (Make sure you use the calibration file)

I suggest these, but any high quality USB mic with a calibration file will do.



Don't forget to buy a boom mic stand for your mic. Notable Mic stands for use with UMIK-1, UMIK-2, etc.:

Parts Express Mic + Stand Bundle

Samson MK-10 Microphone Boom Stand

On-Stage MS7701B Tripod Microphone Boom Stand


These mics are for the free DIRAC WINDOWS / MacOS app linked above, and can be used with REW as well.


HOW TO CONNECT THE USB MIC
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If using Windows, make sure all "ENHANCMENTS" are disabled in your HDMI output, and mic's properties page before running DIRAC or REW

Make sure all your speakers/ subs layout and channel count are specific, and correctly configured properly in the AV 10 BEFORE attempting measurements.

Make sure your subs are attached in the proper connection order if using more than one.

You can use a UMIK as a fancy SPL meter in REW (RoomEQ Wizard).

If you use Cross Spectrum UMIK, in Room Eq Wizard, (REW) use Z-WEIGHTING. (Verified via email with Cross Spectrum).

If you have a calibrated mic that works with REW, re-check your channel levels using the built in SPL meter function, and check crossover settings to optimize them after DIRAC. Mine were 98% spot on, but I lowered my Center's crossover from 70 to 60 as it looked a tad smoother in REW in the upper bass region, and some channels were close to 75dB, but just a bit shy.

For REW I sometimes use FlexASIO when ASIO, which is in perpetual beta, acts flaky.


You can do a 1 point measurement at your sweet spot and load it to determine your sub gain if you don’t have access to a mic and REW.

Save your measurement configs on your PC, so you can always experiment and go back if your not happy, or try new things.

Load the preferred HARMAN curve and modify it in the high end to follow the natural roll-off of my speakers' top end as suggested in the DIRAC thread. As of DIRAC DESKTOP APP V3.3, This done automatically. There are sliders now to adjust the curves tilt. I suggest adjusting only the left slider up on each group for a more aggressive bass in the house/Harman curve.

Every time DIRAC updates their PC app, you might want to update it, re-open your saved project, load your curve, let it re-calculate, and re-send it to the AV 10. Sometimes they fix minor bugs, or introduce calibration enhancements that benefit your sound.

A good practice is, DO NOT move the lower curtain to a lower frequency on your speakers than DIRAC sets them to. It can strain your speakers.

More than one sub-woofer? Get your single or multiple subs right with a UMIK, REW, and maybe add a MiniDSP 2X4HD if you can: Links below

https://www.avsforum.com/threads/jerrys-images.2919306/post-60008826 and Simplified REW Setup and Use (USB Mic & HDMI...

I would make sure to use an SPL meter, or use REW to get the subwoofer in line with the internal AVR test tones at 75dB (85dB if using REW and LFE channel) using the sub's gain knob before DIRAC.

With REW you can also use the signal generator function if you want.

Put your AVR's main volume at 0 (reference level), any EQ off, sub level in AVR at 0, and make sure your signal is -30 dBFS when adjusting gain, or measuring.

*If loading HARMAN, etc, curves take that into account, and adjust with the AVR sub level before DIRAC.

Lastly, test using 1 DIRAC position. Load and look at the resulting sub level set by DIRAC.

AFTER adjusting DIRAC levels

For those of you with too loud or too low warnings with your subs in the PC DIRAC app, this is a great workaround if you have a calibrated USB mic:

Fire up REW after volume calibration and finding the loudest speaker in DIRAC, then adjust the sub's amp gain to match it and add 10dB.

A tip courtesy of soldiersinx: If you are worried of laptop, or PC fan noise, "Download hwinfo64. There is an option there to lower your GPU and CPU fan. I noticed my laptop fan would change my noise floor by a little bit."

Warning:

THERE IS A SETTING IN THE DIRAC APP THAT CAN BE ACCIDENTALLY HIT THAT DOESN'T CARRY OVER THE DISTANCES AND SPEAKER LEVELS. JUST A HEADS UP ON THAT.

IN MY OPINION, IT IS TOO EASY TO ACCIDENTALLY HIT THE OPTION, BUT NOT TO WORRY, JUST DESELECT THE OPTION AND THE PROPER VALUES WILL BE RESTORED AND TRANSFERRED TO THE UNIT.

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Display: TCL 65R617, AVR: Denon X2300W, Source: PS5, Fronts: Infinity Primus 362
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I think I am going to get the Av 10 over the Avm 90
I look forward to some good information about the real world use of Av 10!
When the update comes to use TM speakers for Auro 3D will be fantastic something the Avm 90 can’t do
Yeah, that new feature is making me think I might wait for a Denon 6800 instead of going with the 6700. Its way too tempting.

Or possibly just bite the bullet and go for the AV10. But its so costly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I'm not going to use the remote, but it is beautiful, and it's front is completely wrapped with real metal plate making the whole remote feel substantial, and cool to the touch. 🥰

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I think I am going to get the Av 10 over the Avm 90
I look forward to some good information about the real world use of Av 10!
When the update comes to use TM speakers for Auro 3D will be fantastic something the Avm 90 can’t do
Been waiting for a few years on a cheaper 15.4 processor and was about to pull the trigger on the AVM 90, liking the latest Arc Genesis, but wasn't enthused about lack of DTS:X Pro / Auro 3D (yes most content is Atmos, but wanted ability to play around with all formats). Then the AV 10 was announced and had everything I was looking for plus had my wants of 17.4 pre-outs but lacked great bass management. Had my typical reservations for Marantz not measuring well, but the measurements posted on avclub.gr and the DAC filtering option mostly assuaged those concerns. So pulled trigger on AV 10 given the expanded codex support and 17 pre-outs over the AVM 90, and figured I could play around with directional bass, Audyssey and Mini DSP until Dirac bass management releases.
 

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Hey I'm over here now :)
The AV10 runs cool: there is no fan at least none I can see or hear
My test continues with the AV10 on the bench running a Kaleidescape Strato: I remain impressed as there is no flashing and the correct audio codec is automatically selected...and the PQ is excellent...absolutely stable
Installation in the rack is my next problem: the AV10 is about 1 inch taller than the AVM90 so I have to move some stuff around.
Changing processors is a big project: often you learn you only made a 'sideways' move: just trading one set of issues for another....but here it seems like the AV10 is a step up, at least so far
 

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With such a high dollar piece, anyone getting calibration done?

Chad B was at my house today and did both a video and audio calibration. On the audio side, I have an x6700h, purchased from @Cleveland Plasma and a 5.1.4 Ascend Acoustic system. I have Sierra Towers, Sierra Horizon center, Sierra surrounds and HTM-200se heights. Rythmik FV15HP subwoofer. I had calibrated my system using the Audyssey MultEQ Editor app and it sounded pretty good, but Chad really took it to a new level. The bass is so much more impactful, the whole sound stage is much more open and crisp. I'm absolutely thrilled with the result. The thing that really was cool is that Chad knows the Denons inside and out, he was able to show me how to use the settings, make changes myself if I need to, etc. I'll say this, he did my Sony XBR-77A9G also, but the change there is much more subtle, if I could only afford one of the two, I would definitely choose the audio calibration over the video in terms of immediate impact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
  • Haha
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Some factual and subjective initial thoughts on the unit;

OPERATING EXPERIENCE

The unit comes double boxed from the factory.

Beautiful, well put together unit.

Such a clean and considerate layout in the rear. A pleasure to install.

The front textured gunmetal ends, are NOT metal, but you can not tell by looking at them. I had to really scrutinize them to tell. They are also much darker in person than in pictures, and videos. They are very nice, and not cheap looking.

The front door is substantial, and opens/closes very nicely.

On/Off switch feels great.

The remote is exquisite. FEELS GOOD IN THE HAND.....Ladies?......Very nice. There is also a button on the right side for the backlight that has a satisfying click. All the buttons have a satisfying tactile feedback. The backlight is evenly lit. A quick click it comes on and goes off after a short time. Long press it and it will stay on longer, and maybe permanently.

I'm not a knob person... LOL ...., but the input selector (Left knob)? Blah. Not very luxurious. No satisfying tactile feel. It has one, but you might go past your input. Volume knob is fine (Right knob)

I feel the top, middle panel could be a little more rigid.

Runs very cool. Saying that, it is a long unit ;) , so if you want to use a product like an AC Infinity AIRCOM, you will have to slide it to the back or forward. It won't line up.

GUI is very fast, simple, and east to use.

I love all the information given via the INFO button. This is huge to me.

Very nice font on the OLED "porthole".

All lighting effects, display, and fonts are an off white subdued color.

12V Triggers work great.


SOUND QUALITY

My equipment is in my signature, and I use XLR interconnects

3x Audioquest MacKenzie for my front 3 channels, and a Mogami Gold 8 XLR-XLR-05 Audio Snake Cable for the other 8 channels.



Haven't set up Audyssey yet, but I set the DAC filter to 2 for "BENCHMARK" mode and played some bass heavy music.

Sounds great. The bass is very muscular, and enveloping.

Dead quiet, and absolutely no buzzing, or clicks/pops/crackling through the speakers, etc.......

There is a low, slight thump, turning the unit off that I never experienced before, but it might be amp dependent, YMMV.

I haven't played any audio that needs to be decoded yet, so I can't speak to any noisy relay sounds, and if there is any.

I'm VERY happy with the unit, so far.

Stay tuned. A QUICK, and dirty 3 point Audyssey calibration will be performed Soon. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ROON: the AV10 does not show up as a ROON ready device
It says "ROON tested- YES", on the webpage, so maybe a firmware/software update? Maybe via HEOS?
 

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Yes but not ROON certified!
Edit: the Marantz shows up in ROON but only for Airplay under ‘other connected devices’: it is shown separately from other ROON Ready devices
 

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Marantz - Denon products are all only Roon tested not ready, so you are limited to air play and air plays capping at 2 channel 44.1kz.
 

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I like the very flexible layouts. Who will be first to do 5+wides.4.8?
 

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I have a 9.4.4 currently, waiting on the remaining ceiling speakers to go 9.4.8 :D Should arrive the week of Dec 12th..but then I am still waiting on the hypex boards to arrive to upgrade my amp channel count, which is unknown at this time, so may be on 9.4.4 until Jan/Feb.

Also for XLRs I got Canare snake cables from Performance Audio with custom labels and channel colors: https://www.performanceaudio.com/cu...m-canare-ms202-pro-connectors-xlr-to-xlr.html

Did my best to combine both the AV 10 back panel labels with the Atmos channel naming convention, which I hope some will find helpful. Not listed in this table but I did my best to match the speaker wire label colors that come with the AV 10 with the colors of the XLR boots/rings.

Pre/Pro ChannelCablePlacementPositionAV 10 Back PanelCable LabelCharacter Count (max 15)
1​
1​
FrontRightFront RFront R - FR
12​
2​
1​
FrontLeftFront LFront L - FL
12​
3​
1​
FrontCenterCenterCenter - C
10​
Blank
1​
0​
4​
1​
SurroundRightSurround RSurround R - SR
15​
5​
1​
SurroundLeftSurround LSurround L - SL
15​
6​
1​
Surround BackRightSurround Back RBack R - SBR
12​
7​
1​
Surround BackLeftSurround Back LBack L - SBL
12​
8​
2​
Front WideRightFront Wide RWide R - FWR
12​
9​
2​
Front WideLeftFront Wide LWide L - FWL
12​
10​
2​
Front HeightRightHeight1 RHeight1 R - FHR
15​
11​
2​
Front HeightLeftHeight1 LHeight1 L - FHL
15​
12​
2​
Rear HeightRightHeight2 RHeight2 R - RHR
15​
13​
2​
Rear HeightLeftHeight2 LHeight2 L - RHL
15​
14​
2​
Top MiddleRightHeight3 RHeight3 R - TMR
15​
15​
2​
Top MiddleLeftHeight3 LHeight3 L - TML
15​
16​
3​
Center HeightRightHeight4 RHeight4 R - CH
14​
17​
3​
Top SurroundLeftHeight4 LHeight4 L - TS
14​
18​
4​
Sub FrontLeftSubwoofer 1Subwoofer 1 -FL
15​
19​
5​
Sub FrontRightSubwoofer 2Subwoofer 2 -FR
15​
20​
6​
Sub BackLeftSubwoofer 3Subwoofer 3 -BL
15​
21​
7​
Sub BackRightSubwoofer 4Subwoofer 4 -BR
15​
 

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I have a 9.4.4 currently, waiting on the remaining ceiling speakers to go 9.4.8 :D Should arrive the week of Dec 12th..but then I am still waiting on the hypex boards to arrive to upgrade my amp channel count, which is unknown at this time, so may be on 9.4.4 until Jan/Feb.
Why go 9.4.8 on a processor that can't drive that layout or are you randomly going to disable 2 outputs depending on what audio format you are listening to?
 
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