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I own 3 XTZ Cinema M6, 2 XTZ Spirit 2 and a subwoofer 10.17 EDGE.
I did the calibration with the Audyssey XT32 del Denon X3500H.

Before starting the calibration I made the following settings:

1. subwoofer:
- low pass FREQ: 170 hz;
- PHASE: O °;
- GAIN: 12 noon;
- EQ PARAMETERS: OFF;
- LOW PASS: OFF;
- EQ: REF;
- POWER: always on;

2. denon x3500h:
- SUBWOOFER MODE: LFE + MAIN;
- LPF for LTE: 120 hz;
- front, central and surround speakers: SMALL.

3. I connected an RCA cable to the LINE IN "LEFT" input of the subwoofer and to the PRE OUT input (Subwoofer 1) of the Denon.

After setting the parameters mentioned above I started the automatic calibration of Audyssey XT32.
At the end of the automatic calibration I detected the following values:
- audyssey MultiEQXT32: on;
- audyssey Dynamic EQ: on;
- audyssey Dynamic Volume: off.


Speaker crossover:
- front: 40hz
- central: 40hz
- surround: 80hz

GAIN of the subwoofer: 9 am

levels:
- Front L: -1.5db
- Front R: -1.5db
- Central: -1.0db
- Surround R: 0.0db
- Surround L: -0.5db
- subwoofer: -0.5db

Speaker distances:
- Front L: 2.67 meters
- Front R: 2.58 meters
- Central: 2.46 meters
- subwoofer: 7.41 meters
- Surround L: 1.56 meters
- Surround R: 1.41 meters.

I accepted all the automatic calibration settings except for the crossover frequencies: I set all the speakers (excluding the subwoofer) to 80 hz.
Did I do everything correctly?

To me it look absolutely OK for all speakers.

As regard the sub, the -0.5 dB seems a tad bit too high. General consensus is to have the sub level somewhere in the mid negatives, but not lower than -11 dB.

For best results you may rerun Audyssey calibration with the sub GAIN set to "noon" (12 am). That will surely result in a lower level trim. The importance of this setting is that you will be able to boost a couple of dBs on the sub to taste once you feel the need to have a little more extra bass (we all have that particular feeling!) and won't need to worry about saturation in the subwoofer chain causing distortion.

Other members will surely chime-in with their expert advice, so please stay tuned for the next message.

Wish you good luck with your setup. :)

P.s.: You've got a very nice system with the Denon X3500H and your speaker choice! XT32 rocks! :cool:
 

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thanks.

I read that maybe it's better to set the subwoofer mode to LFE instead of LFE + MAIN because all the speakers are set to SMALL.
 
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Just a quick question guys if I may. I have recently added sound absorption to my walls in my dedicated home theatre and was wondering if I need to re run audyssey pro or just keep my old settings. The sound absorption consists of the whole room except ceilings.Thankyou.
 

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Just a quick question guys if I may. I have recently added sound absorption to my walls in my dedicated home theatre and was wondering if I need to re run audyssey pro or just keep my old settings. The sound absorption consists of the whole room except ceilings.Thankyou.


Re run, always re run when changing something significant and often when not so significant.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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To me it look absolutely OK for all speakers.

As regard the sub, the -0.5 dB seems a tad bit too high. General consensus is to have the sub level somewhere in the mid negatives, but not lower than -11 dB.

For best results you may rerun Audyssey calibration with the sub GAIN set to "noon" (12 am). That will surely result in a lower level trim. The importance of this setting is that you will be able to boost a couple of dBs on the sub to taste once you feel the need to have a little more extra bass (we all have that particular feeling!) and won't need to worry about saturation in the subwoofer chain causing distortion.

Other members will surely chime-in with their expert advice, so please stay tuned for the next message.

Wish you good luck with your setup. :)

P.s.: You've got a very nice system with the Denon X3500H and your speaker choice! XT32 rocks! :cool:
Hi thanks for the appreciation.

Are you sure the subwoofer level is too high? I had the subwoofer level at -3db but Xtz wrote to me that it is preferable that the subwoofer has a level between 0 and + 3db. Who's right?

I write to you the advice of Xtz:


If it has set it to negative value, ie. -6 dB or similar, the signal to the subwoofer is probably too weak to trigger it. Then you can lower the gain on the bit subwoofer, run the calibration again. Repeat lowering the gain until the value for the subwoofer output level is 0 dB or even up to +3 dB. This way, the receiver will be able to react.

Coming to the subwoofer is just a multiplier for the signal coming in. I know if you have lower gain on the subwoofer, but stronger signal from the subwoofer. I know you don't lose any power by lowering the gain, as long as you adjust the low level signal coming from the receiver.
 

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Re run, always re run when changing something significant and often when not so significant.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Thanks mate, will rerun and see what comes of it.:)
 
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Hi thanks for the appreciation.

Are you sure the subwoofer level is too high? I had the subwoofer level at -3db but Xtz wrote to me that it is preferable that the subwoofer has a level between 0 and + 3db. Who's right?

I write to you the advice of Xtz:


If it has set it to negative value, ie. -6 dB or similar, the signal to the subwoofer is probably too weak to trigger it. Then you can lower the gain on the bit subwoofer, run the calibration again. Repeat lowering the gain until the value for the subwoofer output level is 0 dB or even up to +3 dB. This way, the receiver will be able to react.

Coming to the subwoofer is just a multiplier for the signal coming in. I know if you have lower gain on the subwoofer, but stronger signal from the subwoofer. I know you don't lose any power by lowering the gain, as long as you adjust the low level signal coming from the receiver.

OK, I get it from Xtz. Actually they are taking about subs that have an "auto wake up" feature. This means the sub will stay off below a certain level and kick-in (auto-turn-on) when the input level reaches that triggering point. My Dali sub has the same, but it can be disabled with an on/off switch on the rear side of the sub.

I don't want my sub to turn off when Master Volume is set so low that the sub if defeated, so I keep that feature out of site, my sub always stays "awake" even at the lowest MV setting, like for example when I have guests and I play a little background music for my friends at say -50 dB and the bass still remains intact!

Hope this helps! :)
 

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Hi All,

I have a question that have been wondering why this occurs and if it is correct.

When I run auto eq Audyssey sets 20hz 6db 30hz 5db 40hz 4dp plus. The room is not near dead and this occurs with or without treatments. In rew the room measures relatively flat from 300hz.

Any ideas why and is this correct? I am using Kef q900, marantz av7702mk2 and monolith 7x amp.
 

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thanks.

I read that maybe it's better to set the subwoofer mode to LFE instead of LFE + MAIN because all the speakers are set to SMALL.
When speakers are set to Small, there is literally no difference between LFE and LFE+MAIN. LFE+MAIN only takes effect if the FL/FR speakers are set to Large.
 

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Hi All,

I have a question that have been wondering why this occurs and if it is correct.

When I run auto eq Audyssey sets 20hz 6db 30hz 5db 40hz 4dp plus. The room is not near dead and this occurs with or without treatments. In rew the room measures relatively flat from 300hz.

Any ideas why and is this correct? I am using Kef q900, marantz av7702mk2 and monolith 7x amp.
Can you show us your measurements with/without Audyssey?
 
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OK, I get it from Xtz. Actually they are taking about subs that have an "auto wake up" feature. This means the sub will stay off below a certain level and kick-in (auto-turn-on) when the input level reaches that triggering point. My Dali sub has the same, but it can be disabled with an on/off switch on the rear side of the sub.

I don't want my sub to turn off when Master Volume is set so low that the sub if defeated, so I keep that feature out of site, my sub always stays "awake" even at the lowest MV setting, like for example when I have guests and I play a little background music for my friends at say -50 dB and the bass still remains intact!

Hope this helps! :)
1. So I set the gain of the subwoofer so as to get the level of about 0 dB at the end of the calibration?

2. Should I use the two sponges I found in the two holes of the subwoofer?

3. audyssey Dynamic EQ: is it better to set On or OFF?
 

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1. So I set the gain of the subwoofer so as to get the level of about 0 dB at the end of the calibration?

2. Should I use the two sponges I found in the two holes of the subwoofer?

3. audyssey Dynamic EQ: is it better to set On or OFF?

1. Nope. You should set the gain of the sub to get a level between -6 dB to -11 dB at the end of the calibration.


2. Actually you have four choices: no port plug, left port plug, right port plug and both port plug. Only you can decide which sounds best in your specific room. Try to experiment, then run Audyssey calibration program.


3. DynamicEQ is a tool to compensate the human ear's characteristics as the Master Volume is turned down. At 0 dB MV we hear the full frequency range, but as soon as we start to turn down the Master Volume our ears start to loose sensitivity to bass and treble. DynamicEQ keeps the percived frequency range constant. Turn down MV to say -20 dB and turn DynamicEQ on and off and listen carefully. Decision is again in your hands.
 

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1. Nope. You should set the gain of the sub to get a level between -6 dB to -11 dB at the end of the calibration.

Excuse me. I'm confused.
The producer writes to me that the level of the subwoofer should be between 0db and + 3db.
Instead you write to me that the level of the subwoofer must be between -6db and -11db.
Are you absolutely certain of what you wrote to me?
 

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Excuse me. I'm confused.

The producer writes to me that the level of the subwoofer should be between 0db and + 3db.

Instead you write to me that the level of the subwoofer must be between -6db and -11db.

Are you absolutely certain of what you wrote to me?


A low starting point gives less chance of pre outs clipping which can be a problem on some AVRs while many subs can have difficulties turning on with the same low sub out signal. Also a lot of people, if not most, turn the sub level up 3 to 6dB(some even more) which if sub out is at +3 already increases the chance of output clipping. Some subs cant achieve full power with a very low input signal.

As you can see there are many considerations and in the end it depends on your equipment and use whats best for you.
If you want a middle ground -5dB can be good at calibration if you increase a little after. -unless sub auto wake is slow, then start a little higher.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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A low starting point gives less chance of pre outs clipping which can be a problem on some AVRs while many subs can have difficulties turning on with the same low sub out signal. Also a lot of people, if not most, turn the sub level up 3 to 6dB(some even more) which if sub out is at +3 already increases the chance of output clipping. Some subs cant achieve full power with a very low input signal.

As you can see there are many considerations and in the end it depends on your equipment and use whats best for you.
If you want a middle ground -5dB can be good at calibration if you increase a little after. -unless sub auto wake is slow, then start a little higher.


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For 11 years I set my sub trim at -3 dB on my Onkyo 706 with MultEq. I now set the sub the same way with my Denon 3500 with MultEq XT32. No problems at all with those settings.
 

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For 11 years I set my sub trim at -3 dB on my Onkyo 706 with MultEq. I now set the sub the same way with my Denon 3500 with MultEq XT32. No problems at all with those settings.

During calibration did you turn the gain of the subwoofer to get a level of -3db at the end of the calibration?

XTZ wrote to me that a level too low does not activate the subwoofer:

If it has set it to negative value, ie. -6 dB or similar, the signal to the subwoofer is probably too weak to trigger it. Then you can lower the gain on the bit subwoofer, run the calibration again. Repeat lowering the gain until the value for the subwoofer output level is 0 dB or even up to +3 dB. This way, the receiver will be able to react.
 

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During calibration did you turn the gain of the subwoofer to get a level of -3db at the end of the calibration?

XTZ wrote to me that a level too low does not activate the subwoofer:

If it has set it to negative value, ie. -6 dB or similar, the signal to the subwoofer is probably too weak to trigger it. Then you can lower the gain on the bit subwoofer, run the calibration again. Repeat lowering the gain until the value for the subwoofer output level is 0 dB or even up to +3 dB. This way, the receiver will be able to react.
The sub volume control was set to 9:00 o'clock prior to calibration. The resulting Audyssey trim level is -3 dB. I have had the sub for a number of years and know pretty well what sub settings are required to obtain my desired Audyssey trim levels. I don't use the auto on function for the sub. It is on all the time unless we go away, then I turn it off.
 

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Excuse me. I'm confused.
The producer writes to me that the level of the subwoofer should be between 0db and + 3db.
Instead you write to me that the level of the subwoofer must be between -6db and -11db.
Are you absolutely certain of what you wrote to me?
Please see this section of mthomas47's Guide to Subwoofer Calibration and Bass Preferences (linked in my sig) for an explanation of why you want to keep sub trims well below 0dB:

Master Volume Levels And Sub Boosts


If you want to learn even more about subwoofer calibration (and many other HT topics), click the link in my sig for the full guide. ;)
 

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During calibration did you turn the gain of the subwoofer to get a level of -3db at the end of the calibration?

XTZ wrote to me that a level too low does not activate the subwoofer:

If it has set it to negative value, ie. -6 dB or similar, the signal to the subwoofer is probably too weak to trigger it. Then you can lower the gain on the bit subwoofer, run the calibration again. Repeat lowering the gain until the value for the subwoofer output level is 0 dB or even up to +3 dB. This way, the receiver will be able to react.

Hi,

Several others, including both Feri and Alan, have already addressed this issue. But, let me add that I believe you are overthinking this. You do not need to follow XTZ's specific recommendation for the trim level unless you actually are having a problem with the subwoofer coming on from Auto mode, with a lower trim level. You will surely be able to tell whether the sub comes on or not, and you can adjust the trim up and down to test it as much as you like.

The best practice recommendations in the Guide are somewhat generic, without the advantage of knowing what specific subwoofer/AVR combination you have. And XTZ's recommendation is also generic. For instance, it would be much more applicable to older generations of Yamaha AVR's, which sent a lower-voltage signal to the subwoofer unless the trim level were high, rather than to Denon/Marantz AVR's.

As explained in the Guide section that Alan linked for you, there are actually two reasons why individuals may be better off using higher subwoofer gain settings, and correspondingly lower AVR trim settings. The first reason involves the possibility of the subwoofer clipping at higher trim levels when they are combined with louder overall master volume levels.

The second reason involves the fact that not all subwoofers can achieve max volume levels unless the gain is set relatively high. That sometimes varies with subwoofer models, even within specific subwoofer brands. The best practice guidelines are merely intended to provide general guidance to avoid those two potential issues. But, individuals are always perfectly free to experiment for themselves, and to decide for themselves what specific advice is directly applicable to their situations.

I'm writing this for others who may be reading along, as much as I am for your specific situation. Rather than overthinking it, I recommend that you just discover for yourself at what AVR trim setting your subwoofer will reliably turn-on from Auto mode. :)

Regards,
Mike


Edit: Noticing your other question, I should add that the port plugs change the tuning point of your ported subwoofer. I assume from your statement about having two foam plugs that you have a 17 Series subwoofer.

If you are plugging a port, the one you choose to plug will affect the frequency response of your subwoofer, as will plugging both ports. As Feri said, you will have to decide for yourself which mode you prefer. The one port plugged mode will give you the deepest extension, and the most SPL below 20Hz. XTZ explains what the different port tunes do on their website, and they include frequency response graphs for the different options which are available to you.

It may be important that you change the setting on the subwoofer's plate amp to correspond to the new tuning point you are trying. You have the option of EQ1 and EQ2. The digital signal processing (DSP) in the subwoofer is intended to correspond to the various plug configurations, and you have quite a bit of user adjustability. You should rerun Audyssey if you change the tuning point on your sub.

In my opinion, this issue of port configuration is actually much more significant, with respect to your overall bass, than the issue of gain/trim setting. This is where I would spend some of my time reading the XTZ website, and then experimenting to discover what combination of port plug and DSP sounds best to you.
 

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Is there a thread to discuss/post Audyssey MultiEq Editor App results, and get some recommendations? I have a hard time figuring out what to tweak, including turning midrange compensation on or off. Thanks!
 
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