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Hi everyone, new to the forums - thanks for the ton of information here, and especially for the links to the calibration settings.

I just picked up a P60 (open box - perfect condition) from Best Buy yesterday and a Vizio 2.1 soundbar (nib) for $1000 total after some negotiating with the GM and love it! After reading through the forums, am I correct that I can use other users calibration settings but should leave the 11pt white adjustment default because it's too device specific? Also, would I be safe at trying some of the posted P70 calibrations? Thanks much.
Yes, it would be better to leave 11-pt (as well as 2-pt, meaning RGB Offset and Gain) at default values until you purchase or rent a meter.

First try Basic and Advanced settings (from either P60 or P70 - they are both based on Sharp panels) and then try CMS settings (again, for either P60 or P70) which should all transfer relatively well.

Getting a disk like DVE or AVSHD709 (free here on the Forum) will allow you to calibrate basic settings including Sharpness using your eyes but then the next step if you want to spend $100-200 for a basic meter would be to dial in white balance and greyscale/11-pt using freeware like HCFR and free patterns like AVSHD709 or GCD...

P.S. Great find on the P60;)
 

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Guys I'm new to calibration of TV's and have a question.


Equipment:
CalMan5 latest RC
Cal 6 meter
DVDO AVLab TPG™ pattern gen.
Vizio 50 in P series from Walmart
.19 Firmware


I get the basics:
1. Set Brightness
2. Set Contrast
When do I use the 11 point White Balance settings? How are these used in addition to the Color Tuner Settings?
I played around with adjusting White Balance settings starting @ 5 on the grayscale and could get the deltas below 3. Once I got to around 50 the White balance controls started to loose effectiveness. Above 50 maxing out any of the RGB White Balance controls made no difference to meter readings.
When setting the grayscale do I balance them out using the color tuner since the White Balance controls don't seem to work?


Thanks in advance for anyone that can help.


It would be nice to see a calibration from start to finish by someone that knows what there doing to make sense of the whole thing. :)
 

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Guys I'm new to calibration of TV's and have a question.


Equipment:
CalMan5 latest RC
Cal 6 meter
DVDO AVLab TPG pattern gen.
Vizio 50 in P series from Walmart
.19 Firmware


I get the basics:
1. Set Brightness
2. Set Contrast
When do I use the 11 point White Balance settings? How are these used in addition to the Color Tuner Settings?
I played around with adjusting White Balance settings starting @ 5 on the grayscale and could get the deltas below 3. Once I got to around 50 the White balance controls started to loose effectiveness. Above 50 maxing out any of the RGB White Balance controls made no difference to meter readings.
When setting the grayscale do I balance them out using the color tuner since the White Balance controls don't seem to work?


Thanks in advance for anyone that can help.


It would be nice to see a calibration from start to finish by someone that knows what there doing to make sense of the whole thing. :)

Watch the video "calibrating Leo's OLED" it's on YouTube and was an episode on Scott's Home Theater Geeks.


Sent from nowhere
 

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Yes, it would be better to leave 11-pt (as well as 2-pt, meaning RGB Offset and Gain) at default values until you purchase or rent a meter.

First try Basic and Advanced settings (from either P60 or P70 - they are both based on Sharp panels) and then try CMS settings (again, for either P60 or P70) which should all transfer relatively well.

Getting a disk like DVE or AVSHD709 (free here on the Forum) will allow you to calibrate basic settings including Sharpness using your eyes but then the next step if you want to spend $100-200 for a basic meter would be to dial in white balance and greyscale/11-pt using freeware like HCFR and free patterns like AVSHD709 or GCD...

P.S. Great find on the P60;)
Perfect - I know I'll be wanting to buy a meter eventually as I enjoy "tweaking" things. Much appreciated.
 

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Yes, it would be better to leave 11-pt (as well as 2-pt, meaning RGB Offset and Gain) at default values until you purchase or rent a meter.

First try Basic and Advanced settings (from either P60 or P70 - they are both based on Sharp panels) and then try CMS settings (again, for either P60 or P70) which should all transfer relatively well.

Getting a disk like DVE or AVSHD709 (free here on the Forum) will allow you to calibrate basic settings including Sharpness using your eyes but then the next step if you want to spend $100-200 for a basic meter would be to dial in white balance and greyscale/11-pt using freeware like HCFR and free patterns like AVSHD709 or GCD...

P.S. Great find on the P60;)
Just curious.......how close a calibration to what a paid professional gets are these $200.00 devices capable of?
 

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Perfect - I know I'll be wanting to buy a meter eventually as I enjoy "tweaking" things. Much appreciated.
There are less-expensive (and slower) meters under $200, but if you are patient and keep your ears open, the $250 i1Display pro is often available on discount for $150-175 and this is probably the best bang for the buck when you can find it.
 

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Just curious.......how close a calibration to what a paid professional gets are these $200.00 devices capable of?
Well, given how finicky the P70 was to calibrate and the fact that many 'experienced' calibrators including CNET got it wrong, I'm pretty confident that the results I got with i1DisplayPro+HCFR+GCD are as good or better than I could have paid a professional without Vizio P70/P60 experience to deliver...

I spent more hours than I want to admit figuring out how to calibrate the 11-pt and CMS of the P70 to deliver accurate results displaying good blacks, shadow detail, and color accuracy.

The i1DisplayPro meter itself will do a fine job (far, far closer to what a ~$10,000 professional meter could do that what you could do with your eyes) and by getting a correction file for the same meter using the same TV, you can get very close to the level of accuracy you would get running a profile of your specific meter directly on your own TV.

But we are talking about splitting hairs that would be undetectable unless doing a side-by-side comparison against a reference monitor displaying the same content - a basic meter like the i1DisplayPro will get you 90% of the way from what you are able to do with your eyeballs and a basic calibration disk like DVE to what a professional calibration would deliver.
 

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Thanks, good info.

BTW; after trying out all the different calibration settings posted here, I finally settled on yours. Damn sharp lookin set! :)
 

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Just curious.......how close a calibration to what a paid professional gets are these $200.00 devices capable of?

There will be much debate in this and there are more factors than just buying a meter. A paid pro has much more experience and much much more expensive (accurate information) as fafrd has said without knowing some of the quirks of the P series it could make it more difficult. Many find their time valuable so they hire someone rather than put in the time and money required to get an accurate calibration. Remember your results are only as accurate as the hardware and calibrator are capable of achieving. You can see many related threads like this in the calibration section of the forum.


Sent from nowhere
 

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Yes, it would be better to leave 11-pt (as well as 2-pt, meaning RGB Offset and Gain) at default values until you purchase or rent a meter.

First try Basic and Advanced settings (from either P60 or P70 - they are both based on Sharp panels) and then try CMS settings (again, for either P60 or P70) which should all transfer relatively well.

P.S. Great find on the P60;)
After trying a combination of Buzz's (P60), Googer's , Superkyle's, and your posted P70 basic and advanced settings I was able to get a visually pretty good picture dialed in. I have DVE on DVD and I'll pop that in later and try working on the CMS later until I can get my hands on a meter. This TV has replaced our 2006 Panasonic TH-50PX600U Plasma (which refuses to die) and still has an excellent picture albeit in 720P.

It's funny how things like this end up being a Pandora's Box, lol. Bought the 1080P set....then needed a bluray player....then needed better sound...then needed to buy my collection of movies in bluray....now looking a cal. meters!

Thanks!:)
 

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After trying a combination of Buzz's (P60), Googer's , Superkyle's, and your posted P70 basic and advanced settings I was able to get a visually pretty good picture dialed in. I have DVE on DVD and I'll pop that in later and try working on the CMS later until I can get my hands on a meter. This TV has replaced our 2006 Panasonic TH-50PX600U Plasma (which refuses to die) and still has an excellent picture albeit in 720P.

It's funny how things like this end up being a Pandora's Box, lol. Bought the 1080P set....then needed a bluray player....then needed better sound...then needed to buy my collection of movies in bluray....now looking a cal. meters!

Thanks!:)
Been there, done that ;)

And you haven't even mentioned your internet service yet - once I saw Netflix in 4K stuttering and skipping frames, I had to upgrade from 6Mbps to 20Mbps...
 

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I'm up to version 1.1.19. Is it possible yet to save various settings posted here under the name of the poster(fafrd, gouger, ph8te, etc.) and not have any negative side effects? At one time it was a problem doing that.
 

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I'm up to version 1.1.19. Is it possible yet to save various settings posted here under the name of the poster(fafrd, gouger, ph8te, etc.) and not have any negative side effects? At one time it was a problem doing that.
Not sure what you are referring to - you can always run the Factory Reset option to return the TV to its original out-of-the-box settings.

In addition, the newer firmware versions (1 1.14 or higher) have made it easier to reset the 11-pt and CMS settings of one color temperature while leaving those for the other color temperatures intact.

Experiment away, the water is warm;)

P.s. Rereading your post, it seems like you may have been referring to saving various settings under different names so that you can switch between them.


I believe that only the Calibrated Dark setting (not renamed) will deliver the best dark-room viewing performance, so I don't believe you can store more than one of those at a time.

For the others, my experience is that they appear reasonably interchangeable, meaning you can save one set of settings as Calibrated (or whatever new name you want to provide), another as Standard, and a third as Vivid.

But this only applies to Basic and Advanced settings (which are the main settings you should be touching without a meter anyway) and only in modes other than Calibrated Dark which is the mode pretty much all of us have focused on since it provides the best dimming performance.

11-pt settings should be avoided without a meter (as well as RGB Gain and Offset within CMS), and once you decide you want to try to copy CMS settings, you can only have one at a time.

So unfortunately, once you want to compare CMS settings, you will be largely out of luck. You can save my, Googer's and Superkyles Basic and Advanced settings but only one of those can be used with Calibrated Dark and CMS at a time and you will probably find that the entire group of settings including Basic, Advanced and CMS looks best when grouped all together.

Good luck and let us know what tricks you found...
 

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Care to share?

After trying a combination of Buzz's (P60), Googer's , Superkyle's, and your posted P70 basic and advanced settings I was able to get a visually pretty good picture dialed in. I have DVE on DVD and I'll pop that in later and try working on the CMS later until I can get my hands on a meter. This TV has replaced our 2006 Panasonic TH-50PX600U Plasma (which refuses to die) and still has an excellent picture albeit in 720P.

It's funny how things like this end up being a Pandora's Box, lol. Bought the 1080P set....then needed a bluray player....then needed better sound...then needed to buy my collection of movies in bluray....now looking a cal. meters!

Thanks!:)
 

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Not sure what you are referring to - you can always run the Factory Reset option to return the TV to its original out-of-the-box settings.

In addition, the newer firmware versions (1 1.14 or higher) have made it easier to reset the 11-pt and CMS settings of one color temperature while leaving those for the other color temperatures intact.

Experiment away, the water is warm;)

P.s. Rereading your post, it seems like you may have been referring to saving various settings under different names so that you can switch between them.


I believe that only the Calibrated Dark setting (not renamed) will deliver the best dark-room viewing performance, so I don't believe you can store more than one of those at a time.

For the others, my experience is that they appear reasonably interchangeable, meaning you can save one set of settings as Calibrated (or whatever new name you want to provide), another as Standard, and a third as Vivid.

But this only applies to Basic and Advanced settings (which are the main settings you should be touching without a meter anyway) and only in modes other than Calibrated Dark which is the mode pretty much all of us have focused on since it provides the best dimming performance.

11-pt settings should be avoided without a meter (as well as RGB Gain and Offset within CMS), and once you decide you want to try to copy CMS settings, you can only have one at a time.

So unfortunately, once you want to compare CMS settings, you will be largely out of luck. You can save my, Googer's and Superkyles Basic and Advanced settings but only one of those can be used with Calibrated Dark and CMS at a time and you will probably find that the entire group of settings including Basic, Advanced and CMS looks best when grouped all together.

Good luck and let us know what tricks you found...
Thanks for that complete answer. This whole issue of copying or not copying settings because every panel is different is debatable for sure. I have done both and had excellent results both ways. For now, I have tried several settings from several calibrations here and found the best one to my eyes was Superkyles's daytime that used the Computer picture mode. This sounds weird I think because a computer color mode would seem counter intuitive. His Dark Calibrated mode, the one for night time viewing, does not have the "pop" that the Computer mode has. Maybe, if he is reading this, he might have some suggestions for increasing the "pop" in the night time mode.

My "trick" I have come up with is to turn on several lights in the room for night time watching with the Computer mode settings. Raising the ambient light in the room substitutes a little for the lack of sunshine but seems to work for my eyes. I think it helps that they, my eyes, are old and tired.
 

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Care to share?
Sure, but I wouldn't really call this a true "calibration". It was done with DVE on DVD via Sony bluray (upscaled to 1080P) without a meter and I only adjusted the basic settings. RGB colors were off but adjusted as best could be with basic settings. What this really confirms is that the basic settings for the P70 that most people report seem to be a good starting point for users without meters. On a side note, I checked for the 1.1.19 update and it didn't show up for me yet. DVE has an advanced calibration section for gray scales and other color adjustments but I didn't get that far - I'll update when I do. Even with these "basic" adjustments I'm perfectly happy with the results.

P602ui-B3 with FW 1.1.14 and Active LED Zones off for calibration.

Night viewing:


Basic settings:

Picture Mode: calibrated dark
Auto Brightness Control: Off
Backlight: 100
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 50 for HDMI 1-4, HDMI 5 not checked
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

More Picture:

Color Temperature: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED Zones: On
Smooth Motion Effect: Off
Clear Action: On
Reduce Signal Noise: Off
Reduce Block Noise: Off
Game Low Latency: Off
Picture Size & Position: N/A
Film Mode: Auto
Gamma: 2.4

Color Calibration: Zero's across the board

11 Point White Balance: Zero's across the board

Day Viewing:

Basic settings:

Picture Mode: calibrated
Auto Brightness Control: Off
Backlight: 100
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 50 for HDMI 1-4, HDMI 5 not checked
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

More Picture:

Color Temperature: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED Zones: On
Smooth Motion Effect: Off
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: Off
Reduce Block Noise: Off
Game Low Latency: Off
Picture Size & Position: N/A
Film Mode: Auto
Gamma: 2.2

Color Calibration: Zero's across the board

11 Point White Balance: Zero's across the board
 

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Thanks for that complete answer. This whole issue of copying or not copying settings because every panel is different is debatable for sure. I have done both and had excellent results both ways. For now, I have tried several settings from several calibrations here and found the best one to my eyes was Superkyles's daytime that used the Computer picture mode. This sounds weird I think because a computer color mode would seem counter intuitive. His Dark Calibrated mode, the one for night time viewing, does not have the "pop" that the Computer mode has. Maybe, if he is reading this, he might have some suggestions for increasing the "pop" in the night time mode.

My "trick" I have come up with is to turn on several lights in the room for night time watching with the Computer mode settings. Raising the ambient light in the room substitutes a little for the lack of sunshine but seems to work for my eyes. I think it helps that they, my eyes, are old and tired.
Superkyle used the CMS to compensate for Computer color shift as much as possible and bring it very close to Normal.

He only did that so he could have two separate 11-pt settings, one tied to Normal color Temp for nightime viewing Calibrated Dark and the second tied to the compensated Computer color temp for daytime viewing.

If you take his nightime settings and want to increase 'pop' (brightness) for viewing with the lights on, here is a list of ways you can do that:

A/ turn off Clear Action (if it was on)

B/ try using Calibrated instead of Calibrated Dark

C/ increase Backlight

You can also try different Gamma settings - lower generally means more visible shadow detail at the expense of some contrast at the high-end.

To first order, the settings for Color (Color, Tint, Color Temp, CMS) are separate/independant from the settings for greyscale/brightness/gamma (Brightness, Contrast, Backlight, Gamma, Clear Action, Calibrated Dark vs. Calibrated).
 

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After trying a combination of Buzz's (P60), Googer's , Superkyle's, and your posted P70 basic and advanced settings I was able to get a visually pretty good picture dialed in. I have DVE on DVD and I'll pop that in later and try working on the CMS later until I can get my hands on a meter. This TV has replaced our 2006 Panasonic TH-50PX600U Plasma (which refuses to die) and still has an excellent picture albeit in 720P.

It's funny how things like this end up being a Pandora's Box, lol. Bought the 1080P set....then needed a bluray player....then needed better sound...then needed to buy my collection of movies in bluray....now looking a cal. meters!

Thanks!:)
+1. Funny, it started with the TV (70" Pseries) for me as well. Bought a blu-ray player the next week to see how bluray movies look even though I don't own any blu-rays. Flash fwd to today, I now have a new front stage; sub upgrade, rear surround upgrade are next on the list. On top of that, I've been waiting for the new HDMI 2.0 with HDCP 2.2 receivers to go on sale. Pandora's Box indeed!! Thank goodness most of the replaced equipment was already 10+ years old, so it makes it somewhat easier to justify. Ha!
 
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