AVS Forum banner

15841 - 15860 of 15860 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
814 Posts
M I'm not sure if I just give up on this thing or if there is a drop in amp I can retrofit. Looking back I spent $800 on the sub and $250 getting it shipped to me. It hurts to just scrap the damn thing.
I couldn't find a replacement amp that fit in that small cutout, if you wanted to DIY it you could seal it yourself and use an outboard amp but that was way beyond my DIY abilities.
I just bailed on mine and gave it away, there was a ton of interest so it went to a good home at least.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
923 Posts
A5-350 Amp Replacement

I've had my eD A5-350 since about February 2008. It fought the good fight for nearly 12 years. The LT/550 amp gave out in December 2019. The issue was that certain frequencies would cause the amp to go haywire and the driver sounded like it was bottoming out and flopping around. This was at normal listening volume, not when driven hard at all. Otherwise it still worked OK.

I know from previous posts in this tread that it's not repairable, but I still brought it to a local shop to try and have it fixed. The guy replaced some capacitors but ultimately said it needed a complete rebuild and wasn't worth the cost to fix it. He said the amp and driver were both crappy. He actually told me to toss the entire sub out and buy a new one...However, I wasn't willing to give up on it yet.

So, after a bunch of research I decided to buy the Yung SD500 from Parts Express. I was told by another AVS member it would drop right into the same hole the LT/550 came out of. Well, nope. At least not in my enclosure. The LT/550 cut out is 8 3/4" x 8 3/4". The cut out needed for the Yung SD500 is 8 7/8" W x 9 3/4" H as stated on the order page.

So, a little trim was in order; no problem. I extended the top edge of the hole from 8 3/4" to 9 3/4". the sides were actually OK, though to give the amp more room I probably should have trimmed them too. After the top edge cut, I used a router to cut out the channel needed for the amp to sit on the enclosure. Took about 30 minutes from measure to cut to clean up.

Here are some pics:

LT/550 - no real issues can be seen
LT550.jpg

Nope, Yung SD500 doesn't quite fit
NopeYungSD500.jpg

Guided by duct tape
DuctTapeCut.jpg

Router to the Rescue
RouterRescue.jpg

Fits like a champ!
FitsLikeAChamp.jpg

All done
FinishedProduct.jpg

The A5-350 is now restored and working. It serves as a second subwoofer now setup near field, with a PSA V1512 located at the center front stage. Having two subs is really fantastic and the A5-350 setup next to couch really shakes the butt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Yeeeeeears ago I came to AVS to get help in deciding what speakers and sub to get for a home theater. I landed on an A2-300 and I've been quite happy with it...until it stopped working...right after quarantine started >,<

The light wasn't coming on at all so I took on the fuse and lo it was blown. I replaced the fuse (got the same kind, T5AL250V) and turned it on to hear it make a discernible "pop" sound. The red light turns on but it does not respond to any of the RCA or speaker inputs - the light does not turn green nor does it make any sounds.

Based off what I've read it looks like ED amps tend to go bad so maybe that's it? Is trying to troubleshoot this or repair this myself a crazy project? I am guessing I would need to unscrew the back panel and access that way but I wanted to make sure I wouldn't cause myself a headache by doing so. I have a soldering gun and multimeter, but I am certainly no expert to electronics. Can someone point me towards some good resources?

Thanks!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
923 Posts
Based off what I've read it looks like ED amps tend to go bad so maybe that's it? Is trying to troubleshoot this or repair this myself a crazy project? I am guessing I would need to unscrew the back panel and access that way but I wanted to make sure I wouldn't cause myself a headache by doing so. I have a soldering gun and multimeter, but I am certainly no expert to electronics. Can someone point me towards some good resources?
Removing the amp is very easy and straight forward. Remove the screws and it should come out. You might have to pry it a bit as it can be stuck or fused slightly to the paint. Then disconnect the wires from the driver (just depress the buttons holding the wires in place) and the amp is free. Watch any video on this as it's pretty similar on most subs.

As for repair, I dunno. The first thing to look at are the capacitors to see if any are bloated or popped with ooze coming out. Replacing them regardless probably couldn't hurt. Again, any how-to video on replacing capacitors would probably work for you. I can't be helpful beyond that.

Alternatively you can bring it to a shop, but it's probably cost prohibitive enough that replacing the amp is a better option if fixing it yourself doesn't work.

Depending on the amp, maybe @daveds50 can offer suggestions or repair. I'm guessing you have the LT200 amp. Previous posts he said he could repair ones without the heatsink on the back; but if it has a heatsink it's an older model which he can't repair.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
304 Posts
Based off what I've read it looks like ED amps tend to go bad so maybe that's it? !
the amps are actually pretty good amps... however, like almost all amps from China, your amp is aged. in fact, you got a pretty good lifespan out of it. while certain capacitors really need to be changed by now, your real problem is not the caps. seeing that the fuse blew, likely you have a bad output section, and if the amp did try to go green, the fuse would blow again. (note: do not blow fuses over and over... that will eventually take out the power supply section too)

as an alternative, you can buy a replacement amp, but none of them are the same size. you will have to modify the cabinet. if you do this, i'll buy your old amp.

Depending on the amp, maybe @daveds50 can offer suggestions or repair. I'm guessing you have the LT200 amp. Previous posts he said he could repair ones without the heatsink on the back; but if it has a heatsink it's an older model which he can't repair.
it's not that i cant repair the old heatsink LT200's, or the LT350's and LT550's, but a few of the parts that they use are obsolete, and cannot be bought anywhere. but the non-heatsink LT200, LT300 and LT500 still are modern designs and have currently used parts in other amps. so those parts will not be going obsolete anytime soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,636 Posts
Based off what I've read it looks like ED amps tend to go bad so maybe that's it?
I have dual 1300 watt amps from ED before they went belly up. Still going after 8 years. Now these were the last two LT1300 watt amps and were coming back from their repair guy at the time. I waited on these instead of going with Dayton 1000 watt amps. Im asuming Dave might have been the guy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
304 Posts
Im asuming Dave might have been the guy
it was... during the last couple of months before they went belly up, i would not take anything more from them due to past due bills. but i did send them a small load of LT1300's back to them previously, which they never paid me for. :frown:

it's all good though.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
923 Posts
Depending on the amp, maybe daveds50 can offer suggestions or repair. I'm guessing you have the LT200 amp. Previous posts he said he could repair ones without the heatsink on the back; but if it has a heatsink it's an older model which he can't repair.
it's not that i cant repair the old heatsink LT200's, or the LT350's and LT550's, but a few of the parts that they use are obsolete, and cannot be bought anywhere. but the non-heatsink LT200, LT300 and LT500 still are modern designs and have currently used parts in other amps. so those parts will not be going obsolete anytime soon.
That's what I meant, but wasn't clear in my post. Do you have interest in purchasing my non-functioning LT550? It's just sitting on my workbench...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Thanks @corwiniii! Indeed I do have a LT.200 amp.

while certain capacitors really need to be changed by now, your real problem is not the caps. seeing that the fuse blew, likely you have a bad output section, and if the amp did try to go green, the fuse would blow again. (note: do not blow fuses over and over... that will eventually take out the power supply section too)
Thanks for the response!
Do you have any favorite guides on identifying problems with and repairing an output section? Is there a hope of me ordering the parts and replacing it myself? I was planning to open up the sub today or tomorrow to take a look. It looks like identifying and replacing capacitors should be pretty easy though.

as an alternative, you can buy a replacement amp, but none of them are the same size. you will have to modify the cabinet. if you do this, i'll buy your old amp.
That was going to be my next question! Do you have any recommendations for a replacement amp or parameters to watch out for? Parts express seems to be out of stock on a bunch of their plate amps. Is a 300-500w replacement amp a good idea (or an upgrade?) or would that destroy the rest of the sub components? I'm not necessarily afraid of modifying the cabinet (I think I'd just need a dremel?) but that would also be delving into some new territory for me. =)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
304 Posts
Do you have interest in purchasing my non-functioning LT550? It's just sitting on my workbench...
nah... i don't have, nor can i get the parts to fix it. and that last thing i need, is more useless junk cluttering my shop. :D


Thanks @corwiniii! Indeed I do have a LT.200 amp.
Thanks for the response!
Do you have any favorite guides on identifying problems with and repairing an output section? Is there a hope of me ordering the parts and replacing it myself? I was planning to open up the sub today or tomorrow to take a look. It looks like identifying and replacing capacitors should be pretty easy though.
through hole capacitors are easy. if what i suspect is wrong with the amp though, will be replacement of the output transistors, the PWM chip, and driver transistors. if you are not experienced with circuit board work and do not have the proper equipment, you can easily destroy the traces on the board, especially in the area of the PWM chip. i dont want to recommend trying it, as once the traces are no longer useable, the amp is done. Chinese circuit boards are the crappiest made boards in the universe, so you have to be careful when working on them. there are a lot of times. especially in car audio amps, that the owner tries to fix them themselves... then sends it to me... only for me to box it back up and send it back and telling them that it's unfixable.


That was going to be my next question! Do you have any recommendations for a replacement amp or parameters to watch out for? Parts express seems to be out of stock on a bunch of their plate amps. Is a 300-500w replacement amp a good idea (or an upgrade?) or would that destroy the rest of the sub components? I'm not necessarily afraid of modifying the cabinet (I think I'd just need a dremel?) but that would also be delving into some new territory for me. =)
you dont want to overpower these drivers too much... 300 watts is ok, as the LT200 actually puts out around 250 watts RMS. but know that Parts Express amps are also Chinese amps, and they do have a limited lifespan. but, they can be bought for cheap... know that you get what you pay for.

dremel wont work... the sizes of the replacement amps will require a jig saw. there is not many amps as small as an LT200, so making an adapter plate to fit a smaller amp is not likely to be needed.

but... before you do anything, either attempting to fix the amp, or replacing it, check your driver first. use a multimeter and check across the speaker wires. you should see around 5 ohms. then lightly push on the cone and see if it moves scratchy or smooth. drivers are the #1 cause of amp failure. if it measures low, like 3 ohms or less, then we know exactly why your amp blew up. eD was not known to be using the best quality drivers... so check that first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
but... before you do anything, either attempting to fix the amp, or replacing it, check your driver first. use a multimeter and check across the speaker wires. you should see around 5 ohms. then lightly push on the cone and see if it moves scratchy or smooth. drivers are the #1 cause of amp failure. if it measures low, like 3 ohms or less, then we know exactly why your amp blew up. eD was not known to be using the best quality drivers... so check that first.
I got about 5.5 ohms so I think the driver is ok!

If the newer models do not have a heatsink, then I must have an older model: https://imgur.com/a/axtVJ6G I don't see anything obviously wrong with the amp, though I didn't disassemble the components. Any thoughts looking at these images or should I disassemble further for a better look?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
304 Posts
I got about 5.5 ohms so I think the driver is ok!

If the newer models do not have a heatsink, then I must have an older model: https://imgur.com/a/axtVJ6G I don't see anything obviously wrong with the amp, though I didn't disassemble the components. Any thoughts looking at these images or should I disassemble further for a better look?
i should have elaborated... heat sink on the outside panel. yours is a newer model, and all parts are available, and the parts are still used in various modern car and home amplifiers.

90% of the time on all amplifiers, you can't tell what is wrong visually. taking it apart probably won't do any good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Ah ok.

@daveds50 so does it make sense for me to do any further diagnostic here myself in hopes there are any easily replaceable parts (since it sounds like most aren't too difficult to find?) or at this point should I just send you the amp?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
923 Posts
An alternate tack: would folks recommend replacing the plate amp with a non-plate amp?
If you can't get the plate amp fixed (would be my preference), I would think you'll have to modify the cabinet either way - with a different plate amp or external amp. I did new plate amp, but there's no reason you couldn't do external amp; others in this thread have. You could use the external amp in future for something else like a DIY project. I would say the only negative no matter what is you'll probably spend more than the subwoofer might be worth. But then again a decent new subwoofer is going to cost north of $500 at least on the low end unless you can find something used.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Hi all. It looks like the amp on my A2-300 blew and I'm in a bit of a conundrum as I'm also looking to downsize. Should I try to get this fixed or just see if someone wants to buy the parts? The driver and cabinet are still in good condition.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
923 Posts
Hi all. It looks like the amp on my A2-300 blew and I'm in a bit of a conundrum as I'm also looking to downsize. Should I try to get this fixed or just see if someone wants to buy the parts? The driver and cabinet are still in good condition.
I'm not sure what kind of market there is on a (probably near) 10 year old, broken amp subwoofer. You could try. I guess $50-$100, if you can get it, is something toward another subwoofer.

Your cheapest option is probably to fix the amp, if it can be fixed. Read up above on this page about that. LT/200 amps without the external heatsink can be repaired.

Next might be to buy a new plate amp and modify the enclosure for it; or go with an outboard amp. Both have been done here by previous posters, read last few pages.

Finally, just replace it since that sounds like something you want to do anyway for a smaller footprint. You're probably going with a sealed sub, or dropping down to a 10" or even 8" driver for ported, to find a smaller footprint. Without knowing anything about your budget, room size, listening habits, a couple that quickly come to mind around $500 and (a bit) smaller than the A2-300:
Rythmik L12 (sealed)
SVS SB-1000 (sealed)
Monoprice Monolith 10" (ported)
RSL Speedwoofer 10" (ported)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
I'm not sure what kind of market there is on a (probably near) 10 year old, broken amp subwoofer. You could try. I guess $50-$100, if you can get it, is something toward another subwoofer.

Your cheapest option is probably to fix the amp, if it can be fixed. Read up above on this page about that. LT/200 amps without the external heatsink can be repaired.

Next might be to buy a new plate amp and modify the enclosure for it; or go with an outboard amp. Both have been done here by previous posters, read last few pages.

Finally, just replace it since that sounds like something you want to do anyway for a smaller footprint. You're probably going with a sealed sub, or dropping down to a 10" or even 8" driver for ported, to find a smaller footprint. Without knowing anything about your budget, room size, listening habits, a couple that quickly come to mind around $500 and (a bit) smaller than the A2-300:
Rythmik L12 (sealed)
SVS SB-1000 (sealed)
Monoprice Monolith 10" (ported)
RSL Speedwoofer 10" (ported)



Thanks. I was thinking of the SB-1000. As for the amp, I wonder if it's something David can fix. Might be easier to sell with everything working.
 
15841 - 15860 of 15860 Posts
Top