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A few weeks ago, I noticed my Legend wasn't working. I put my hand on the plate and it was extremely hot. It actually lightly burned my hand. I turned it off then back on the next day. It came back and worked for a few days. Last night I noticed it wasn't working again. I checked and the light was off. I checked the fuse this morning and it wasn't burned out badly. I replaced and it immediately popped. I removed the plate amp (and accidentally pulled of the speaker crimp connectors in the process). Since I couldn't find any plate amps that would drop right in, and I could get a Behringer iNuke NU1000 for $150 with sufficient power, I modified the wiring on the plate so that the subwoofer connections went through the left low level input terminals. After reconnecting everything, I tested the ohms at 3.7. The amp will be here in a few days, and I'll report back on how it sounds. Honestly, this setup is in my living room where the volume never really gets turned up, so as long as the sub functions again, I doubt I will care any longer. I still have two functioning Empires in my theater that seem to be working fine. Hopefully that trend will continue.
 

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Connecting Empire as Passive

I recently bought an Empire with a dead amp. I'm trying to run it passive with an outboard amp, but not getting any results. I removed the dead plate amp and connected the cut wires to a Crown K2 amp. From the Crown I connect to a Pioneer Elite AVR LFE output. Unfortunately I'm not getting any sound from the sub. Is a signal booster required from the AVR to the outboard amp?


Right now I have an RCA to 1/4" plug adapter from the AVR LFE to the amp. I also tried with an RCA to XLR converter, but that only resulted in a noticeable hum from the mains.


I've previously run powered subs from the AVR LFE with no problems whatsoever.


Thanks.
 

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I recently bought an Empire with a dead amp. I'm trying to run it passive with an outboard amp, but not getting any results. I removed the dead plate amp and connected the cut wires to a Crown K2 amp. From the Crown I connect to a Pioneer Elite AVR LFE output. Unfortunately I'm not getting any sound from the sub. Is a signal booster required from the AVR to the outboard amp?


Right now I have an RCA to 1/4" plug adapter from the AVR LFE to the amp. I also tried with an RCA to XLR converter, but that only resulted in a noticeable hum from the mains.


I've previously run powered subs from the AVR LFE with no problems whatsoever.


Thanks.
Are you sure the speakers are good? You should be able to touch the speaker(s) wires to a D cell battery and see if it moves, if not, the speakers are bad.
 

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Drivers do appear to be good. Connected them to another amp on another system and they worked.


It's almost as if the LFE from the AVR is not sending an adequate signal to the outboard amp.
 

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Drivers do appear to be good. Connected them to another amp on another system and they worked.


It's almost as if the LFE from the AVR is not sending an adequate signal to the outboard amp.
I'd think you'd get some sound even if the output voltage of your sub pre-out is low. You have gain maxed on the Crown? How exactly do you have the sub and amp connected? Are you sure you have the right 1/4" connector?
 

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The Empire is a fine product. It's a shame about the QC in the amp affecting some batches and with no customer support from a defunct company, one is truly on their own. Knock on wood that I can get at least 10 years out of mine.
 

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The Empire is a fine product. It's a shame about the QC in the amp affecting some batches and with no customer support from a defunct company, one is truly on their own. Knock on wood that I can get at least 10 years out of mine.
One of my two Empire amps failed. I replaced both with a Behringer NU6000DSP. I'll be selling my working plate amp soon.
 

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Update on the Empire passive sub dilemma. Read through a bunch of threads, particularly the one where Ricci insisted that most AVR's have adequate LFE signals to drive a pro amp. Went back into the AVR and started messing with the set ups. Reset all the mains very low and bumped the subwoofer level up and that was able to get sound. Played around a little more with speaker distances and got things working well, with the exception of an annoying hum, which I assumed was related to the ground isolation. Never had any hum before adding the pro amp. All units, AVR, pro amp, DVD & CD were plugged into the same power strip from the same receptacle. Poked around some more in AVS with regards to hum threads and decided I needed to look into a hum eliminator. However, before getting this, I saw a tip on using an adapter on a 3 prong outlet, which the pro amp has. Popped on the $0.50 adapter, plugged amp back in and hum is gone completely! Will probably still pick up an isolator for safeguard, but all else is good.


Thanks AVS and to all the participants to the various threads for what I considered to be most useful and save me much frustration and cash!! Now I can get back to annoying my wife with a cranking sub.....
 

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The Empire is a fine product. It's a shame about the QC in the amp affecting some batches and with no customer support from a defunct company, one is truly on their own. Knock on wood that I can get at least 10 years out of mine.

I don't think the Empire had reliability problems in their amps. They had some, but not out of line with industry norms. It was the last few batches of Legends that had a lot of amp problems.


My Empire and Legend are working fine. Knock on wood.
 

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Is anyone doing repairs on the Epik Empire amps? My empire has been demoted to an end table for now... I pulled the plate amp partially off and did not see any char marks...
 

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Caps on the power supply board swollen and leaking?

Is anyone doing repairs on the Epik Empire amps? My empire has been demoted to an end table for now... I pulled the plate amp partially off and did not see any char marks...
 

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Hello, for those wondering, it's pretty easy to replace the amp in an Empire with the Dayton Audio SPA1000. Pics below:

I think one of the caps blew in the original amp.





Testing the new amp from PE. Which is a good thing I did because a wire got disconnected inside the amp due to a tie wrap which caused no output. PE tech support helped me find this and apparently happens to a lot of the units.



The cutout of the new amp is 10"x10" so I just removed the old amp enclosure and expanded the width of the cabinet hole by 1.25" on each side with a multi tool. The height is a little over 10" so I didn't need to do anything there.





After that, I just screwed in the new amp and I'm back in business :D





Without changing any of receiver settings, there was a lot more output right off the bat. So now I just need to find some time and a quiet house to rerun the calibration lol. Hopefully someone finds this helpful :)
 

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Hello, for those wondering, it's pretty easy to replace the amp in an Empire with the Dayton SPA1000. Pics below:

I think one of the caps blew in the original amp.





Testing the new amp from PE. Which is a good thing I did because a wire got disconnected inside the amp due to a tie wrap which caused no output. PE tech support helped me find this and apparently happens to a lot of the units.



The cutout of the new amp is 10"x10" so I just removed the old amp enclosure and expanded the width of the cabinet hole by 1.25" on each side with a multi tool. The height is a little over 10" so I didn't need to do anything there.





After that, I just screwed in the new amp and I'm back in business :D





Without changing any of receiver settings, there was a lot more output right off the bat. So now I just need to find some time and a quiet house to rerun the calibration lol. Hopefully someone finds this helpful :)

Extremely helpful.

Although my Empire is still going strong after 4 years of service, (knock on wood), I will bookmark this page for future reference.

I get nervous everytime i read another Epik amp failure story.


Valuable info here. Thanks for post :)
 
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